Today am gona show you how to open steering rack without special tools, its easy guys. Enjoy rebuild rack and pinion: ebay.us/qhTegi amzn.to/3vAmKus rebuild kit: ebay.us/HBla3B
Thanks for posting this video. Helped me get my rack and pinion out. I was getting hung up on that piece that’s held in with the wire. Turns out, once you get the wire you you just have to be a man about it and pull that thing out.
For the Rack Guide Nut get bolt with 2 nuts that will fit inside the Allen portion of the Rack Guide nut and weld the nuts unto the bolts. Then use the corresponding socket to do your stuff. Works like a charm, even with impacts :)
You pulled out that shaft so easy. Mine on my mini cooper has a bearing holding it in, and the opposite side no cap to unscrew and pound it out. How do I pull that out?
Great video...pretty simple job. Rebuilt R&P approx $150 to $300, rebuild seals & parts $30. All pinion gears require preload: differential, rack & pinion steering, etc. Question where do I find the value for preload on Toyota Lexus/Camry 2006?
Thanks for video..does it look like the line outlet nipples could be cut off, new holes drilled clocked differently and them re-welded in new location? The lines are in the way on my engine swap..
@@PoormanscarGarage unfortunately it is leaking.. I was considering ordering a remanufactured one, but there’s Detroit axle, BBB Vision OE, and Cardone. I’ve read awful reviews for all of them... I don’t want to waste my money but I can’t afford to do a lot.
I've heard if the steering wheel is crooked significantly, it is certainly a problem w/power steering rack (as far as I understand the problem can't be fixed then just by simply moving in and out Outer Tie Rods in corresponding directions). Mine is crooked ~45 degrees to the right, no steering fluid leeks observed (I saw some fluid inside of the boot ~ 8 months ago, when changed Inner TR (on driver side only, on passenger it was dry), but I think it is very small, since the fluid level doesn't change). I don't remember when that problem w/crooked wheel developed, I don't drive that car a lot, but I hit a limiting concrete bar, which they conveniently locate at some parking lots, 4-5 days ago, and noticed 45 degrees after that event. So what can happen to a steering rack, what can be wrong, if no leak observed? Did that rebuilt kit you used came w/any diagram? It would be handy to have. The car is 2003 Chevy Cavalier. Thank you very much for the informative film.
@@PoormanscarGarage Thanks a lot! Most likely it is. Yesterday I was able to see w/flashlight (fm top of the engine bay) that the wider part of the boot (on the driver side) is not attached to the rack anymore and some teeth are seen. Probably it is very hard to move that skipped tooth back. I have no clue how to do it, I'll try to google youtube. Or now to change the rack? Thank you again. I did some rather complicated projects on that car (replacement of Inner, Outer TRs, Ball Joints, even removed rivets at some points (to have lower control arms w/option to change Ball Joints)), but never knew that the tooth of a rack can be skipped. But how to know for sure that it was skipped or not, should be some alignment marks on the Rack, but where they are?
@@PoormanscarGarage I know already: to remove the steering shaft from the rack peg, rotate the peg (release the Inner TRs, probably otherwise it won't be possible), attach the shaft back, yes?
@@PoormanscarGarage Fortunately I didn't start yet (couldn't find the boot clamps). I'll put the clamp for Axle Boots. I put one on the passenger side and it is still there. See I didn't know that those large clamps for the Axle boots and not for the Rack boots and installed them before on 2001 Saturn, and on one side of Chevy later, then discovered that it was wrong, installed the right one. I'm thinking now to use just those large Axle clamps for the future (I cut them and smooth the cut side w/file). I'll check on that possibility of broken tooth. Thank you kindly for spending that much time for my questions, very kind of you.
Does anyone know the name of the tool that he doesn't use at the 6:00 mark? I would prefer to use the actual tool, instead of chipping away at it with a screwdriver, same to tighten it.
@@raykampwerth3928 need to be the correct size. The pin wrench is a C shaped with a hinged side that is adjustable. Hook it and turn. So many buy a rebuilt without knowing its only $20-30 in seals and 1 hour on the bench. Just like an alternator, cheap as hell to rebuild.
