How to do a class 1 double-braid eye splice in Yale Blue Moon rope 

Thank you sir!

Yep, I agree. I takes a bit longer, but it makes for a better-looking finished product.

Thank you sir!

I have tried three times and I keep getting stuck on the final bury. I have yet to successfully bury the crossover. The last bit of core with cover buried bunches up and no matter how much I loosen the throat of the splice and keep pulling (repeat x100), I can’t get it set any further. Any tips for a new splicer?

For the wire fid, piano wire works great. I had some bailing wire at work and put it on a piece of old shovel handle dowel. Worked well.

@@pproh608 Thanks. I'll look for something similar.

Thank you Patrick!

Thank you!

Thank you sir!

Thanks Tim!

Thanks Serj.

Thank you!

I have a separate youtube video on how to do a Yale Whiplock. Check it out.

For a 1/2 inch rope the full fid is 11" (28 cm). A "long" fid is 6.75" (17 cm) and a "short" fid is 4.25" (11 cm). If you search on "fid length" on line you will find tables that give fid lengths for ropes of different diameters. Values vary a bit among on-line sources, but in most cases the full fid length is 21 or 22 x rope diameter.

@@ericforsman7787 thank you so much ...grate work

Thanks! You are correct, it is just a standard double-braid splice. I like the wire fid for all double-braid splices because it makes it so easy to pull the core through the cover.

@@ericforsman7787 I teach splicing so was curious. I like Brion Toss's tool and the d-Splicer but the wire fid can do much the same with less expense.

Hi Vinnie. I just noticed your comment. There are a bunch of good videos on youtube about how to do a 3-strand splice around a thimble. That is why I have never bothered to do a video on that particular splice.

Yes.

You can use double-braid splices to make ring-and-ring friction savers out of just about any double-braid rope, but they are not adjustable. They are whatever length you make them. If you want an "adjustable" friction saver you will want to splice a ring into one end and then install an adjustable prusik on the rope so you can adjust the length by sliding the prusik along the rope. There are many commercial versions available.

With the cores strands I just remove 5 or 6 individual strands. That just makes it easier to pull the core through the cover.

@@ericforsman7787 OK, but my point is your expression. English speakers use "pair" to indicate single pieces sometimes (pair of scissors, pants, shorts, glasses,, ... They are all single things that you use a plural noun for (... ah ... so that's where all that crazyness comes from.) )

@@davidmaes3253 Yes, I should have said "individual strands" as opposed to "pairs".

They are Clauss serrated splicing scissors. You can get them from Treestuff.

It is just what the manufacturers recommend for their ropes. For some reason the folks at Yale recommended a slightly longer bury. If you want it is ok to do a long fid bury on both types of rope.

@@ericforsman7787 appreciate the reply eric! Can you do a kernmaster splice video one day, that would be awesome!

@@carter_kolarek I know that some people have spliced Kernmaster with a core-dependent splice, but I have no experience with it. If I was going to order Kernmaster I would order it with a sewn eye and save myself the hassle.

@@ericforsman7787 kernmaster had a brained nylon core so its done like a double braid but with a longer mark 3 or "z" after you mark the eye size

It is a 11.7mm rope, which is 0.460 inches. Since it is so close to 0.50 inches I use a 1/2'" fid for the layout. I suspect that a layout with a 7/16" fid would be just fine but I have not compared the strength of the two.