How to do a nozzle wipe before every print - Gcode Scripts part 2

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A nozzle wipe or purge line is a really handy way to make sure your extruder is ready to go as soon as it starts the first layer of your print - watch to learn how.
In this video we'll take some ideas from a profile for the Prusa i3 Mk2 and use it for the Wanhao i3 V2 by adding to the start gcode script.
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Опубликовано:

28 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 169

@kuatemachu 7 лет назад

For copy paste :) G1 Y-3.0 F500.0 ; move out of print volume G1 X60.0 E9 F500.0 ; start purge G1 X100 E12.5 F500.0 ; finish purge line

@itscrazy3d663 7 лет назад

You are awesome lol

@RichLeeFL 6 лет назад

Thanks.

@dsp4392 6 лет назад

MVP stuff right there

@littlenyancat5754 6 лет назад

No, MVC (Most Valuable Commenter)

@daniellipman532 6 лет назад

not all heroes wear capes

@Ace12GA 7 лет назад

This is a neat way to handle this. I have just been printing a 4 line skirt around my part to accomplish the "line purge".

@sloanv2610 7 лет назад

Ace12GA same. sometimes the part is small and I need that many but other times the part is big and it wastes time and plastic

@codered11343 7 лет назад

Angus, I am so glad I found this video in your back catalog because this is exactly what I have been looking for to add to my Printrbot Simple Metal profile in Simplify3D. My first exprence with 3D printers was a Makerbot (older versions) and those do purge lines and I prefer them to a offset brim for priming the extruder. While my Gcode writing is getting better, I really needed this info to point me in the right direction. Thanks a ton! By the way, I know you must hear this all the time, but whenever I think of you and your name, your just the 3D printer MacGyver to me!

@elfenmagix8173 6 лет назад

Great to know. I prefer to do a skirt with 3 loops, it gives me a chance to look at how the filament is adhering to the bed's surface at the print area.

@happy14945 7 лет назад

Welcome back :) I solved the problem with the start by printing a single brim layer with 3mm distance. That also does the job and helps the first layer to stick as well as your starting gcode :)

@Hulign 6 лет назад

I know this is an old video but it was perfect for what I was trying to do. Been watching a ton of your videos. Great work! Thanks

@YossNutt 7 лет назад

I was dreading learning how to make this command myself for my Wanhao i3, you just saved me a whole heap of trial and error. Thank you Angus. I'll go check part 1 to learn more :)

@davecaldwell5188 7 лет назад

I used the purge line tonight and it worked straight away! thanks a lot man :D

@sneekylinux 7 лет назад

Glad to have you back mate, am sure my dreamer does this every time, but yes it great as we have some nice placi ready to print without any bad filament..

@AbuzzDesigns 7 лет назад

Welcome Back! I had to do this after I started using simplify3d because of the dual extruders on the Flashforge, but I wish I would have had your video back then, so helpful!

@AbuzzDesigns 7 лет назад

Oh, and I hope Lady Muse is doing much better!

@MakersMuse 7 лет назад

Thanks!!! She is :)

@UnlikelyCreators 7 лет назад

Angus I'm so glad you're kicking back into gear with videos, hopefully things are going better now?

@MakersMuse 7 лет назад

Thanks man, yep slowly but surely!

@3DMakerNoob 7 лет назад

Man, i am so happy you call it Mark 2 and not MK2 lol drives my OCD berzerk :)

@KayoMichiels 7 лет назад

Yeah... because Mk2 is just an abbreviation of Mark 2...

@3DMakerNoob 7 лет назад

MK3424 yep and yet it is easier and quicker to say mark 2 than MK

@momonariex 7 лет назад

I added a G92 E0 before and after the purge. Before because if you kill a print midway, it doesn't zero the extruded length, and if you're in absolute positioning mode and you start a new print, it's gonna try and do the G1 X60.0 E10 F500.0 and just back the filament out. After because the first line of gcode afterwards is usually a retract followed by moving the print head into position. Once again, you're at E15, it wants to retract to E-1.5 (if you use 1.5 mm retract distance), so it'll just back the filament out. Both instances happened to me a few times when I used the original start script in the video before I figured out what was going on.

@michi.pin27 7 лет назад

Thanks!! i wondered what the problem was

@geoffreygaeraths4344 6 лет назад

Thank you so much for this tid bit. I was pulling my hair out because mine was retracting a crap ton!

@Kmachman72 5 лет назад

OMG thank you so much for this! My printer kept on retracting my filament at a very high rate of speed… lol. I couldn’t figure out why. Why do they not tell you this in all the tutorials on purge lines?

@valshaped 5 лет назад

This just happened t me too, wish I'd read the comments!

@spitch37 7 лет назад

love the foam mat and the stringy bits of plastic lying there looks just like my setup haha

@lundertied9966 7 лет назад

Angus, very helpful series these tips on Simplify, please continue! Thanks & best regards from Berlin!

@alexsneskov6331 7 лет назад

Thanks Angus for the great content, I like learning in little bits and pieces so cheers for this

@pigstix 6 лет назад

I've been wanting to do this for a while. Thanks.

@idnarbjm 7 лет назад

Welcome back! Do you, or anyone who might read this, know of a place that Print Bite can be purchased in the U.S.?

@gregfeneis609 3 года назад

Just what I was looking for 👍 Maybe home all axes as others have said, then turn on absolute mode?

@PeterTardent 7 лет назад

Great work Angus. Wanting to play with the gcode more to try and dial settings in some more.

@4SquareHI 7 лет назад

So rather than having an absolute position for the purge line it is possible to do a line that say is 5 mm margin from the print area? Flashprint has a Pre-Extrusion feature that allows the following variables: Margin: 5mm Path Length: 120mm Speed: 20mm/sec speed. It it also does a small radius at the very start of extruding which works very well for keeping the nozzles clean. But there are many other items that are lacking in that slicer so I've switched to Simplify 3D and am very happy. This would be a great thing to add to the startup script! Thanks for the great videos!

@SparkyFace5 7 лет назад

very nice! I like the purge line idea a lot! hopefully I can implement something similar for my multicoloured with 1 nozzle stuff I'm working on.

@prunaadrian-nicusor6509 7 лет назад

Cool tutorial,very helpful. looking forward seeing other scripts :)

@toargames 7 лет назад

This is what I needed, Thanks Angus

@vinnyvangogh4365 7 лет назад

I am new to all this and this is a start code suggested by a guy on a FB group helping me get started. Where would I put this purge line code into this? My thoughts are just above the M117 line - my logic being all above sets the printer conditions and the purge line is needed just before it starts printing. G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F9000 M117 Printing...

@vizionthing 6 лет назад

Still handy at the end of 2017 :)

@Wodpuncher001 4 года назад

or 2020

@TheModShopCO 7 лет назад

How does this differ from simply printing a skirt? Is there any advantage to doing it this way instead?

@MakersMuse 7 лет назад

A purge line is advantageous as it does not eat up print area, takes a small amount of time regardless of how many parts and you don't risk the line getting pulled up and ruining your first layer like a skirt would. Personally I've moved all my machines over to this kind of nozzle priming.

@TheModShopCO 7 лет назад

Maker's Muse I'll give it a shot then. Thanks for the info.

@JimHaysTechGeek 7 лет назад

Thanks for this. It really helped me.

@Mr.Titanium1911 6 лет назад

Ahhh... I get it now; wipe=purge. Thanks for the clarification Angus! Although I'm very new to the 3D printing world, I'm a CNC machinist/programmer. Just bought my MK2s and S3D and really enjoy your videos as they are VERY educational. Bravo mate! Q1) Rather than use a semi-colon after the given code, can we place comment in open/closed parenthesis? Q2) What's with the "W" after the G28?

@ChannelHTS 7 лет назад

glad houf back mate

@MakersMuse 7 лет назад

Thanks man!

@ChannelHTS 7 лет назад

hope your Lady is on the mend

@stephenscott876 6 лет назад

Any tips on how to modify the code for a Delta? I'd need a curved line to purge on the edge of a round bed.

@arcanum70 7 лет назад

Hi Angus. Stupid S3D question (I purchased it Monday, love and hate it right now...lol). With my Duplicator I3 and Cura it used to lift the z axis a bit and purge filament after homing and before starting the print. For some reason I cannot get S3D to do that. I've entered Gcode numerous times and all it does after homing is sit for about five seconds, then start the print. I know it's a small thing, but, I liked that it does that in Cura because it allows me to remove plastic from the hot end that was smushed on there after everything homed.

@lemicmelo7713 3 года назад

Hi, How you work around the design and slicing the design with multiple colors to generated a GCODE capable of activating all the extruders or the ones required by the design when you have multiple nozzles? hope this question makes sense. Thank you

@damiendoury4291 7 лет назад

EXCELLENT! Thanks for this tutorial :)

@Theeslickness 7 лет назад

Thanks Angus! This works well but only if the nozzle is already heated. Is there a Gcode to bring the nozzle to 190c before the wipe? Also, what about the code G12? That is a predefined cleaning code, which not many use.

@rccnc4462 7 лет назад

thanks Angus .. good info ..... g28 ,,, im thinking -a sensor on my cnc mill . i wonder if it would act the same ... should do ... save a bit of fine tramming time .

@iangoh7289 5 лет назад

G'day thanks for the Vid, I have an issue with the start script... I have entered a nozzle wipe ( Priming nozzle) prior to print... which means i don't need to do a skirt and lose bed area. I find that at times the Extruder motor turns backward... meaning pulling filament out,, which causes the hot end to be NOT PRIMED ( empty!) . It does this randomly... any clues as to why and the fix?

@icemanfred 5 лет назад

I tried adding this to curs for a cr10spro. It primed the nozzle in mid air.

@siwilson1437 5 лет назад

There are no z-axis movements in the given code, did you home all axes first? Does typing G1 Z0 F500 bring your nozzle down to the bed? If you enter these in the command line rather than in a script remember to make sure to type G90 for absolute positioning first, otherwise relative positioning (G91) may still be selected from a previous gcode file and the nozzle will move -3 from its current location rather than to y= -3. In a script generated by slicer software this will be inserted for you.

@chrisjericho7123 7 лет назад

When I home my tarantula, the head is off the build plate. Is that fine, or should I move the sensor forward so the Y home is on the corner of the plate?

@InspGadgt 4 года назад

Isn't auto-level G29? I tried the G80 with my new Prusa i3 MK3S and it didn't run a mesh level. It does when I use G29.

@jorgepreciat2538 7 лет назад

thanks, I was having trouble with my first layer and this video helped me fix it

@wald0_33 6 лет назад

I am a newb here but was wondering if this would work with the makergear m2 rev. E..... Please let me know. Thanks!

@richard4047 6 лет назад

So whats the difference between doing that and doing a brim ?

@bigfilsing 6 лет назад

i still dont get how you can use Y-3 unless you have an origin offset ??

@siwilson1437 5 лет назад

Because you can configure 0,0 to be the corner of the bed (maybe 5 mm in or more if you have clamps on) rather than the left/frontmost position the head can get to. If you home x and y, then move the nozzle to the front left corner of the bed, then type G92 X0 Y0, this will become your new origin, until you home again anyway! As a result you'll be able to use Y-3. Now if you move as far left and forward as you can (without homing as this will reset your position values!) and read the negative values, you can enter these into your firmware to make them permanent, and as such your software will always treat 0,0 as on the bed, and your coordinate system will make much more sense!

@saam153 4 года назад

Hey Angus, great help, i have been using this gcode since last year but only once out of 10 times my extruder start pulling the material back instead of feeding in as it is suppose to do. again it happens only few times but same gcode works fine next time. Can you please help me identify the issue? My printer is Cartesian base close metal body 300x300x300 dual extruder (fixed) chinese made "Inoovo iCreate". Using Simplify 3d slicer. Big Thanks. ~Stay Home, Stay Safe~

@jonah_herring 7 лет назад

So I have a Robo 3D R1 Plus and if I tell machine G1 E5-G1 E10 It goes to the exact location...how do I get it to extrude 5 and not just go to 5 and 10,Because when I tell it to do it again it goes all he way back to 5 and the to 10

@tyrian869 4 года назад

Why did you move X again?

@ntholt0715 7 лет назад

Can you still do this with a manual level bed printer? I know it might sound dumb but I am new to printing and wanted to make sure

@satibel 6 лет назад

you probably know right now, but yes you can do that.

@rayshain9129 7 лет назад

Doesn't adding a brim do the same thing?

7 лет назад

What's the "W" after G28? It is not documented on the reprap g-code page.

@marhar2 7 лет назад

After you home, Z axis on on 0. Do you need to raise?

@peekpt 7 лет назад

no because you are already have a space

@chrisearlyup 7 лет назад

Hi Angus, great video. One quick question : doesn't the Y-3 command force the printer to hit the y-endstop thus resetting the y-position back to zero and therefore setting the print off by 3mm in y-axis? Would it be possible to set to Y=0 for the same result? Greetings from Germany

@VaultBoi101 7 лет назад

how come when i did this it starts priming in mid air like a couple of millimeters

@AL3X36000 4 года назад

same problem here , did you solve it ?

@AL3X36000 4 года назад

Just found the prblem, you have to lower the nozzle after G29 for my tevo tarantula i use this : ;EXTRUDER PRIMER G1 Y2 F7500 ; move out of print volume G1 X5 F7500 ; move out of print volume G1 Z0.5 F2000 ; move Z lower G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 X6 E9 F250 ; start purge line extrude 9mm feed G1 X100 E13 F500.0 ; finish purge line extrude 13mm feed G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E0 ;extrude 0mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F9000 M117 Printing...

@AL3X36000 4 года назад

even if you lower Z at 0.5 it will automaticaly get at the first layer size so 0.2 as i have printer with a layer thickness of 0.2mm, i use Marlin 1.1.4

@XxWakeboarder911xX 7 лет назад

Hey Angus, can I add script for separate processes? I'm trying to print a batch of items (24 separate pieces) and running into issues with the tip getting gummed up halfway through and causing a failed print. My printer (cubicon single plus) has a nozzle cleaner mounted to the side of the bed and I want to write a script similar to the one you showed in the vid. I want the printer to move to the side of the bed and clean the nozzle before printing each of the 24 pieces. I already have separate processes set up for each piece and was just curious where I would place the script in each process... "starting script" on each process after the first? Is this possible or are scripts only applicable for the first process when printing from an sd card? Thanks

@MakersMuse 7 лет назад

I would ask what is causing the tip to get filament stuck to it, is it a brim lifting away and sticking or are parts coming detached? I only had a brief period of time with the Cubicon Single, but did find parts would break free from the print bed if they didnt have enough surface area. You can definitely insert a cleaning script midway by creating a new process that starts and stops at a single layer (like 10.00 to 10.20 if printing at 200microns) but has 0 infill and no print data assigned, and insert into the 'per layer' window in scripts your cleaning routine - I have done this using M600 on the prusa mk2 to pause for color changes and need to make a video on it, it's a massive hack... but does work.

@XxWakeboarder911xX 7 лет назад

Awesome, thanks for the reply! I like Simplify3d but must have a setting not quite dialed in, as I can print one item at a time but as soon as I go to print multiple items things go bad. I've had to walk away from the printer for a couple days to cool off... I get frustrated when I can't solve something and am new to 3d printing. 😫

@winstonsmith478 7 лет назад

My Monoprice i3 v2 extrudes a small blob purge at the left front corner of the platform before raising up and moving to center to print. Isn't that kinda' the same thing, just not a line?

@MakersMuse 7 лет назад

Yeah there's a few ways you can do it! As long as it wipes the blob somewhere should be good

@thorcyar 5 лет назад

well your Y-3.0 is NOT outside of your print area. It's on some edge and you CHOSE to reduce your print area for some reason you could mention. This start gcode also supposes that your printer, after homing is at the right height for purging and the purge to stick to the build plate, but that is not the case with marlin and a bltouch. This is what I have for now (marlin / bltouch / anet a8), it's perfectible. G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 X90.0 Y1 Z10 F2000.0 ; move out of print volume without risking hitting any tongs G1 Z0.2 F200 ; move down the head to the right Z before purging G1 X150 E9 F500.0 ; start purge G1 Y1.4 ; before 2nd line, move ahead of the first path G1 X110 E12.5 F500.0 ; finish purge line (come back) G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again

@Rurikpaon 5 лет назад

thanks!

@skyrim4713 7 лет назад

Could this settings work on the maker select v2

@petersmith481 5 лет назад

How can the nozzle wipe gcode be added to an ender 3 in cura 15.04 ?

@rwb1uk 5 лет назад

Could someone please help me to write this script for a kossel delta printer? I tried to modify the code for the Cartesian style printer for my delta & didn't work 🤔

@contirossini 7 лет назад

Hi Angus. Helvio from Switzerland here... I`ve tried that code on my two printers, but it retracts the filament instead of extrude it... What could be wrong? thanks!

@mattdurmeier1767 7 лет назад

If you're using cura an the reprap flavor of gcode you have to clear the start gcode completely and insert what Angus is using, but after it does the purge line for some reason it does a big retraction right before it starts the print which I haven't figured out why yet.

@MarinusMakesStuff 5 лет назад

My Y-axis endstop is at the other end of the axis and I inverted it so I should use a different setting to Y-3.0 haha

@yagoa 7 лет назад

Hi, did it go outside(Y-3.0) on the Wanhao?

@MakersMuse 7 лет назад

Yep, the Wanhao was able to move beyond home.

@techtiptricks 7 лет назад

Copy Paste: M300 S1567 P240 ;Play a groovie beep tone to get things started M115 U3.0.7 ; tell the printer latest firmware version available M300 S1567 P240G28 W ; home all without mesh bed level G80 ; mesh bed levelingG1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside printing area G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro lineG1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line

@shawnkoh5195 7 лет назад

Isn't this the same as a skirt? What's the pros and cons

@MakersMuse 7 лет назад

Same principle, but skirts can take away print volume and sometimes get tangled up in your first layer.

@philevans4021 7 лет назад

Your hair is way too neat in this video :-P

@alexhaszard 7 лет назад

hi angus

@FalcoGer Год назад

Or you could just print a skirt line.

@VinceTibo 7 лет назад

Here's the g-code that you can copy and paste and not waste a single more second of 3D printing: G28 ; home all axes G1 Y-3.0 F500.0 ; move out of print volume G1 X60.0 E9 F500.0 ; start purge line G1 X100.0 E12.5 F500.0 ; finish purge line

@finnduino 7 лет назад

the five people who disliked this video , gtfo what are you doing here

@Senharampai 5 лет назад

more like 20 trolls rn

@NTW3D 7 лет назад

wahoo first comment

@joshb421 7 лет назад

i feel that this video was too long for such a simple thing

@gregoryeletto3637 7 лет назад

you used to have such luscious hair. haha

@MakersMuse 7 лет назад

I need a haircut lol, anything longer than this it just sits flat !

@gregoryeletto3637 7 лет назад

haha

@gregoryeletto3637 7 лет назад

nice

@ryangarrison7088 7 лет назад

Why the two piece code for the purge line? What purpose does that serve?

@thijslenssen192 6 лет назад

Ryan Garrison different flow of filament

@ryanboyes1 6 лет назад

Hi, Thanks for the video. I tried this with my Creality CR-10 and Cura V3.4.1. Although Cura allows you to add code at the start it put a little bit in front of it. The line that caused the problem was "M82 ; absolute extrusion mode" meaning that when it ran my start section line "G1 X60.0 E9 F500.0" it moved the extruder to absolute position 9 rather than extrude it 9 steps. Depending on the position of the extruder it would result in a completely random extruder action like retracting all the filament out of the teflon tube. I had to add a line at the beginning "M83 ; Relative extrusion mode" and a M82 line at the end of my start section to switch it back. Any way to do an If-Then style loop in gcode?

@poweradedrunk 6 лет назад

Quick Question. Where should I add this into my start/end gcode? here's my current set up: G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F9000 ;Put printing message on LCD screen M117 Printing...

@L3X369 4 года назад

I use this on my printer (Tronxy with Marlin firmware) M117 Purge extruder G92 E0 ; reset extruder G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to start-line position G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; draw 1st line G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to side a little G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; draw 2nd line G92 E0 ; reset extruder G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface M117 Ready to go!

@inspectorrex351 4 года назад

The Wanhao Duplicator i3 can extend beyond Y200 if specified in the firmware. This means that you could move the print head to Y215, prime the nozzle then bring it back into the build volume so the oozed out filament gets chopped off and falls under your print bed so you never have to worry about cleaning it.

@TheMstwntdLMSV123 5 лет назад

I'm having a glitch where it heats up the bed and tries to do the purge line, stops at the end, and THEN preheats the extruder. Anyone know some gcode to solve this? Feedback would be much appreciated.

@IonNight 3 года назад

Thx Angus. This helped a lot on my fresh MK3S+. If I want the purge line to be longer, can I replace the G1 X100 E12.5 F500.0 with G1 X200 E17 F500.0?

@IonNight 3 года назад

I just replaced the line and it worked

@ronzawora 7 лет назад

I want to be a Makers Muse producer someday...

@rondlh20 6 лет назад

Interesting, I always make sure to at least print a skirt

@leqthai 4 года назад

why would you need g1 y-3 when all axes are already home?

7 лет назад

That was exactly what I needed, thanks.

@dineshvyas 4 года назад

Now G12 does it all.

@TheVitruvius 7 лет назад

Glad you're back

@neuxstone 7 лет назад

Hi. Just checked the part one out and like the start finish g code tutorial but can I scroll through the whole code to find issues I'm having with a print? And do I need simplify to do this ? Thanks. I'm a fan of your concise presentations.

@sazma 7 лет назад

Is there more to the i3MK2S profile than the GCODE start/end scripts? If you have a great profile, please share it!

@maxun1 6 лет назад

THANKS SO MUCH, THERE IS A GUY IN SPAIN THE SHOW HOW TO PUT MUSIC IN THE END OF THE PRINT, TOO BAD THE WHOLE VIDEO IS IN SPANISH.

@cryingeva 7 лет назад

Hi,angus how to puase on specify layer on Dreamer ? on the script ?thank

@brentburnette4585 6 лет назад

Hi Angus! I'm just now seeing this video....Is there a way to code it so the nozzle wipe happens down the Y, not across the X? I keep a glass bed clipped onto the front left corner and the nozzle flicks the clips off....If I could go "back" on the Y axis that would be awesome!

@jeffreythompson82 6 лет назад

This is great. I've always been happy with my printer first lines, but it required me to manually prime the nozzle and grab it off the nozzle right before it lays down the skirt (that can be pried from my cold, dead hands). This wasn't a major problem with my OctoPrint setup, but it required me to be physically present for every print start. This simple code now allows me to start prints remotely - it cleanly primes the nozzle and removes all the excess crud that I was otherwise grabbing directly.

@ilovedoom 7 лет назад

with industrial printer there is a sequence for clean and purge the nozzle: at first there is a movement over a sort of brush for remove previous material, next an extrusion in a basket near the build area and then a purge line on the bed. sort of opposite at the end of the printer the sequence is like as follows: movement on the brush and lowering the bed to the bottom while beeping. I'm editing in this way the gcode of my solidoodle 4 to help out not only my prints but even my wife (i hadn't enough time to teach everything, so i'm making custom gcode to get flawless experience for her).

@Mogalize 5 лет назад

My Z doesn't move, so it spurts into open air?

@bodd72 7 лет назад

I tried it on my Anet A8 but it make the nozzle clean outside my heatbedd .. I suppose i have to corrrect it somehow .. ? I have a problem with heating to , when it reaches temp it go print but every first print i had , i had to restart it and then it went allright .. I suppose the nozzle need some kind of pause when reaching printing tempeature .. ? Now i preheat my nozzle and heatbed and then i push print in octoprint and it get right from first try .. could i somehow make the prnter pause for 10 second before printing when it reached its temp ?

@realmaexchen 7 лет назад

Looking forward seeing your next clip about GCoding! Yeah.. that rocks. thank you very much!

@DevilZcall 7 лет назад

hey Angus, what do you know about silicone insulated hotends? i recently started reading up on it and stumbled upon two very interesting methods. 1) the hotend basically gets cast into a heat resistant silicone, which results in a very clean looking insulation but is quite a bit of work. 2) the assembled hotend simply gets wrapped in a few layers of self welding silicone tape. this got me quite good results but I have no means of comparing. the insulated hotend can be touched without instantly getting burned.

@spikekent 7 лет назад

I use the E3D Sock on my Prusa i3 MK2 and it works perfectly e3d-online.com/V6-Sock-Kit-3-Pack?search=sock

@cheekonv 5 лет назад

I know this is a old video but i seem to always have problems it does purge perfect but when it starts first layer i get no stick, weird i guess

@Thomllama1 7 лет назад

that is awesome, but one issue. Many of us have glass plates and the clips in the front/back which the head will collide with. I've been working on one for Cura and my Max Micron, basically the same thing just replacing "X" with "Y" so it slides up the side instead of across the front.

@MakersMuse 7 лет назад

Yep pretty much, just make your purge line go up Y not X, or put it anywhere you like to avoid the clips :)