Finally I did it today. Thank you for the video. It's easier than I thought. It's just messy. Can't avoid touching messy oil. Changed oil filter and DCT filter as well. Used 10W-30 as recommended by owner's manual (Australian version). JASO MA standard as written next to the oil cap. I initially bought car oil but found motorcycle oil is different. Followed whatever owner's manual says. So happy that I did it. So shocked with the blackness of the oil after only 9,000km (5,600 miles). Service manual says every 12,000km. No no no. Will change every 8,000km from now. First service was done at 12,500km. This is now 21,500km. Didn't want to wait till 24,000km. Next job is changing spark plugs and air filter.
First and foremost I would like to Thank you Mr. Fred for this video. I recently purchased a 2020 Goldwing Dct. I'm truly nit mechanical inclined nor have I ever changed my oil on any car I've ever owned or motorcycle. However following your recommendations and step by step process the old change was simple and easy. I completed the job in under 30 mins.. Just an F.Y.I. the quarts of Oil I purchased from Amazon have a see through plastic strip on the side that make it easy to pour the 95 Milliliter from the 5th bottle. The bottle is also marked with the Millileters on the side. Thanks again.
I have not changed the oil on a bike since 1981 when I stripped the oil plug by over-tightening it. After watching Fred's video, I decided to try it myself. I purchased the oil change kit from Wing Stuff, as well as 5 quarts of Honda's synthetic oil. I followed his directions to a T, and I was successful. Just a couple of minor issues: I had to do the work with the bike on its center stand; there was no way I would be able to get under there and drain the oil into a pan. My hope is that the small amount that didn't drain was too minimal to make a difference. Feel free to let me know if I am mistaken. The other minor issue was the removal of the transmission filter. I have the same magnet tool as Fred. Even with the bike on its center stand, there is not enough clearance to attache the magnet to the bottom of the filter and pull down. I wound up using a small flat head screw driver to remove the filter. I tightened all bolts with a regular ratchet wrench, not a torque wrench. Again, I was wary of over tightening. Hopefully, I tightened the bolts enough. I guess time will tell. All in all, it was a simply procedure. Fred, thank you for your excellent instruction.
Thank you for a very clear process. I believe this should work without fail for every oil change after the first one. During the first change, I found that I was unable to remove the oil filter using the appropriate 64mm cup wrench and needed to modify the tool with machine screws to connect it directly to the filter. While I agree that a 3/8 rachet is sufficient to tighten all bolts and the filter. I found that I needed the leverage of my 1/2 rachet to loosen the filter and bolts. They seemed much tighter than the specs mentioned.
Mr Fred i enjoyed your video quite a bit. Thank you for not filling the video with long repetition about what you are going to do. A few others that i follow would have taken the time to do an unboxing of the filter, the oil, the rags etc. I dont know if they get paid by the length the video or what. Sorry i get paid by the fluff i put in my comments. Actually retired with my 2022 dct that i love. I do have 1 question would you recommend not using amsoil? My dad used it since it came out when i was a kid in the 60s, i fell i owe you a coffee for making you read this long post since i gripped about king videos and the authors not getting to the point. You ROCK thanks
Thank you for another great video, Fred. I used your Home Link transmitter video and installed that component on my DCT Tour this weekend. I could not have done it without your help. Thank you!
This is a great video, thank you. I’m not sure how you were able to tape it I couldn’t see things half the time but my bike was only on the center stand. All I can say is getting that transmission filter in getting the bolts in and having the cover seat correctly was something I do not want to do often. Thanks again for the video.
Thanks for great video on the oil change, as a mechanic myself just find odd that oil for engine & gearbox fill throught same fill point but makes it a lot easier 👍love these videos on the goldwing my dream bike 🏍
Hi Cruisemen, I sit with the same problem. Myself an electrical engineer, came of with a simple solution. The sidestand has a simple on/switch connected to ground to have logic 1, it is ok. I now there is a microswitch at the handle which gives the handle bar the display which disable all gear types if selection. I have'nt opened up the cover where the switch sit but interlocking wiring will be done when get there, this is a basic mod and not rocket science. I will surely update you with the outcome.
I don't recommend using torque wrenches on low torque value bolts that are covered with oil. Also, many clicker type torque wrenches don't work well upside down. I've been contacted numerous times by folks who have stripped out drain pans by using a torque wrench. You can make your own decisions, but I feel you are actually better off NOT using a torque wrench in this particular case. Also, I'm told there is an error in the manual on the torque specs for the small DCT cover plate bolts, and I've already heard multiple cases of folks breaking them off in the engine case because of this. They only need to be just barely snugged. My advice is put the torque wrench away and just use some common sense.
@@WingStuffTV One quick question that I can not find an answer to. I have a white mark on the Oil cap where I fill the oil. Do I need to line the mark back up. I was getting a little leakage from the cap. I lined the mark back up and it appears to have fixed the leak.
Thank you for this excellent video. I recently had my first oil change on my 2021 DCT, the next day I discovered a puddle of oil under the bike. Took it back in for service and they changed all the bolts and crush washers again. If it's leaking again I will ask about the cover plate O-Ring Great information and Mr. Craig Hainesworth recommended I watch your video series....very insightful information. Thanks again.
Hi Fred. Thank you so much for your informative video. The last time I changed the oil I wasn't aware of the three drain plugs. I've just done it all correct today thanks to your tutorial. Once again, thank you.
Showed the Oring and it’s sub but didn’t show replacing it on the cap. Did you reuse or use the alternative oring. Tip ... Also if you take a 8 penny nail and ball peen hammer and pierce the bottom of the oil filter can let it drain then remove it it’s less messy. It will also drain the outer shell of the can filter reducing oil left in filter body after removal. I do this trick on all my automotive can type filters. Takes a little more time but less messy.
Great video I changed mine last fall I too had a hard time with the oil filter, found a wrench at the local NAPA but not as good as what you used. I always replace o rings and drain plug washers for the price It's well worth it. I use a piece of cardboard under any thing I change oil on, it helps keep the floor clean.
Thank you Fred ! The tip on the transmission filter cover O-Ring is a great help. I got the kit from Wingstuff for my first oil change on a 2020 DCT. I do believe following the manual when it comes to torques, however it does make sense in regards to all of the drain bolts covered with oil. Also, I can not see myself doing 19 ft/lbs on an oil filter hidden like this in that specific location. It will be a bitch to remove if no choice.
Update: So I did a small experiment with the torque less tightening on the 3 drain bolts. After re installing the all 3 bolts with fresh crush washers, I checked my hand torque with a digital wrench. Slowly increasing the pressure to see max value before I ever so slightly moving the bolt. This would be a rough number only. So, by using a 3/8" wrench to tight the bolts and holding the handle closer to the end of the wrench, I got between 17 - 19 f/lb on the wet bolts. Book says 22 f/lb. I have been checking few times now for leaks, no issues. I honestly do not see stripping the bolts at 22 f/lb wet bolts, fresh washers. if you have a well known mechanical torque tool being used just for tightening only and you always keep it resting on zero, I can't see stripping the bolts per HONDA's instructions. I have not checked the oil filter. I went 1/4 turn passed the final filter sitting.
Very helpful video! If you pre-fill your oil filter you won't want to put in 4.9 quarts of oil unless that value is for an oil change with no filter change. But almost everyone changes the filter every time. If you pre-fill the new filter, measure the amount of oil that comes out of the old filter and subtract that from new oil added. Then fine tune with the dip stick if necessary. Perhaps I'm being a little too technical here as that filter probably doesn't hold very much oil, and the slight overfill probably wont hurt the engine.
Guys, HERE is The Savior YaH The Heavenly FATHER HIMSELF was Who they Crucified/Pierced for our sins and “HERE IS THE PROOF” From the Ancient Egyptian Semitic: "Yad He Vav He" is what Moshe (Moses) wrote, when Moses asked YaH His Name (Exodus 3) Ancient Egyptian Semitic Direct Translation Yad - "Behold The Hand" He - "Behold the Breath" Vav - "Behold The NAIL"
I like popping a hole in the oil filter loosen it a bit let the oil drain out of the filter while I’m dropping the other oil out it just makes removing oil filter less messy!
Thanks for the video! I just got home from the dealership and after they changed my oil it was leaking profusely. Turned out to be a cut in that weak o-ring on the DCT filter cover plate you showed.
Here is where non-trained personnel, although being well intentioned, miss vital information. The genuine Honda shop manual state this particular bike is to be drained on the side stand to completely drain the old engine oil due to internal castings. All these type videos I have seen on RU-vid have been undertaking this process on the centre stand or propped up vertical. No I don't work for Honda but I have read the genuine and correct way of doing things. If you do these videos, please communicate all information properly and advise viewers accordingly.
First of all, thank you for pointing this out. You are correct, there is a note in the service manual about draining the oil on the sidestand. In order to video this procedure, the bike had to be on the centerstand so I could get the right camera angles. You will get just a small amount of additional oil out of the engine if you drain it on the sidestand instead of the centerstand. I am in the process of updating the video to add a note about draining it on the sidestand for clarification. As with any of my video procedures, I always recommend reading and following the Honda service manual. Regards, Fred Harmon
Fred, You're a gentleman and thank you for your considered reply. It was nice to see you took my comments constructively, as they were meant. I will continue to watch. All the best
Hi Fred. Thanks for posting this excellent video. A question I have been trying to get answered related to the oil capacity of these newer wings is- Given the total oil capacity of these 2018+ Wings is actually 5.9 quarts, rather than the 4.9 quart refill during a typical oil change, if one was to do a significant engine repair, how do we go about making a switch from Dino oil to synthetic? It would seem that the extra quart sitting in various cavities throughout the engine and transmission would disrupt the changeover not only in the intended switch of oil types, but also in a typical oil change. I just took ownership of a 2021 DCT Tour and now have about 400 miles on it and am planning on dumping the oil now rather than waiting till 4000. I have always broken in my new engines with a couple of early oil changes to expel the minute metal particles that accumulate at a greater level in a newly run engine due to the various moving parts seating with each other. Obviously this abrasive activity occurs throughout the life of the engine, but definitely at a greater level at break-in. My philosophy is that the longer you wait to dump this accumulation of particles, the longer they they have to create additional wear by becoming a part of the lubrication process. So back to my initial question. Is there a way to completely drain these bikes or do we simply have to realize that we will always have an additional quart of whatever was used in the past, and that could be a mixture from many oil changes? Added to the stress of owning a bike that may not allow a full draining of the oil is the completely insane oil level check process that requires checking the level at a time point when all of the oil has yet to settle (dripped and drained completely) for a true reading. My first oil check using my 45 years of shade-tree mechanical experience led me to call the dealer to notify of a low oil reading, which in turn led to a quick education as to how we check oil with these new engines with a check within 2-5 minutes after the engine has been shut down and never after allowing the engine to completely cool and drain. All of this leads me to just question where exactly is the oil draining further to when the bike sits and engine is left to cool to ambient temperature. Might this be some area that also is unable to become part of the oil change draining step? Crazy stuff! Thanks for any thoughts.
Great video-what about using synthetic oil. I put it in my 2016 champion trike. Could tell the difference as soon as I started the bike up. Less noise-shift easier better MPG
just found your video…thank you…i’m about to purchase a DCT…I don’t mean to make this an oil thread, but…any issues with me using Amsoil 10W30 full synthetic ?
No problem at all! 10W30 Full Synthetic is fine to use in general, however we recommend you double check with Honda's requirements before using. Some oils may include additives which should be avoided, but we don't know enough about that particular brand of oil to say one way or the other. We highly recommend using Honda brand 10W30 Full Synthetic oil (and so do many of our customers!). You can browse their reviews and purchase here: wingstuff.com/products/22888-hp4s-10w30-full-synthetic-oil
After changing and filling the oil, prior to starting the engine I like to spin the engine over without starting it by holding the throttle fully open until the oil pressure light goes off. Then I release the grip and let it idle while I check for leaks. Is it possible to spin the engine over without starting on the new wing?
Man these o Rings from honda are aggravating me. I was just doing one on a sxs700 and the o Ring for the oil filter is much smaller then the one that came out.
Interesting that the DCT uses engine oil. My VW DCT transmissions use a special fluid. They're incredibly anal about how much to add as well. You have to warm up the transmission to a precise temperature. But then again they're Germans, so I guess that's expected.
Why a 50 mile warm up? Can't you just look at the temp gauge to make sure the engine is at operating temp? I would never risk engine damage by using the old crush washer. Once this gasket is originally crushed the excessive torque required to re-crush the washer may strip the threads on the block or leak oil. 50 drain plug gaskets are $10.00 on Amazon. The listed oil change capacity with a filter change in my owners manual is 3.9 quarts. 4.9 quarts is listed after engine disassembly
Thank you! I believe it's 90043-MKC-A00. You can purchase the kit and see the part #s for each component here: wingstuff.com/product/oil-change-kit-w-cap-wrench-for-2018-gold-wing-dct-116236
Quick question, you filled the oil filter prior to install..did you account for that in your oil capacity of 4.9qt? I like being super accurate with my quantities, so I am just curious. Thanks!
What is best way to check oil on my 2018 standard wing? It didn't come with a center stand and the book isn't much help. I have a peak thru area that shows oil but not sure how to read it lol. Tried the dipstick and with bike on it's side stand I wouldn't think it would be a good reading.
Page 154 of the owners manual details the information. The oil needs to be warm to start out with, so if the bike is cold you first have to run it long enough to heat up the oil. If your bike doesn't have a centerstand, you may need a helper so you can hold the bike upright while you check the dipstick reading.
May I ask I just did my 1st did my 1st oil change on my 2020 goldwing I put what the manual required. But it still wasn't enough is this common it did use more then it needed after checking the levels several times.???
Every video on Goldwings are ALWAYS for the DCT. I get it , most complicated. But if you own the Standard, do you do videos on them? Or ever even mention as going the difference so NON DCT can understand any difference?
Hi Jay, thanks for your feedback. We don't currently own a manual 2018+ Gold Wing. Most videos we create relate to both manual and DCT models. But we'll keep your comment in mind when that is not the case.
Hello Dwayne, yes on the Goldwing it’s the same. Other motorcycle brands are different such as Harley Davidson which has different viscosity oil for transmission vs engine... Hope this helps and thank you for your question...ride safe!
Hi fred after some advice my 2018 dct goldwing got stuck in first gear wouldn't change got it home lost all gears oil ok when i got in drive then wouldn't go into neutral also engine management light stayed on then after switching bike on and off it went off any ideas ?
Thanks for your question. Part # for DCT filter is 15412-MGS-D21. Available as part of a kit here: wingstuff.com/product/oil-change-kit-w-cap-wrench-for-2018-gold-wing-dct
do not buy k&n. they are garbage filters (at least on the cbr). look it up. they can damage the engine. BTW, those nuts on the tool are just to remove the filter, not to tighten it
@@ahahahahahaahahaa if you would read the comment instead of just replying by instinct as a fanboy of a product...I said on a cbr. I have have had their air filters before. There are several posts of guys that use their bike on a track and the filter leaks. It is not even allowed on some tracks. Do some research before opening your mouth. This is from a cbr1000 forum
I love the GL and have had three of them - currently a 2018. What in the world are Honda Engineers smoking these days? Have to disassemble the top end of the bike to change an air filter and this mess to change oil. Changing the radiator coolant is worse. Also your supposed to use new hollow bolts on your front calipers when you change brake pads - guess what - NONE OF THE DEALERS HAVE THEM!! So make sure to order parts a month or so in advance of "basic maintenance". Clearly they want customers to go to dealers for all their service. HONDA - What the heck are you guys doing??? Come on! Any of you guys actually attend Engineering School?
I got an email from someone who tried to fill the bike back up with oil using the dipstick hole. He said it took him 2 hours! He later found the filler cap on the other side of the bike and realized his mistake.
