How to replace the front sway bar links on a 3rd gen Dodge Ram. This particular truck I am working with here today is a 2006 1500 4x4. This can be done with the truck on the ground, just turn the wheel out when alternating between each side to access the links. Make sure the truck is on level ground so the swap bar isn’t under tension. Worn or failed sway bar links can typically cause clunking and increase body roll. I’ll show you the common failure points at the end of the video. This truck is getting ready for the road and the bushings are worn so the whole link will be getting replaced. #dodge #dodgeram #mopar
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-new sway bar links with bushings
-17mm wrench
-15mm wrench
-18mm socket
-1/2" drive ratchet
-johnson bar
-hammer
-pipe wrench
Procedure:
Start by removing the 15mm nut on the top holding on the sway bar. The hex on the top portion to prevent the link from spinning requires a 15mm wrench. If yours are excessively tight and you’re not reusing the old links, use a pipe wrench with the handle resting against the frame and a johnson bar instead.
Then remove the washer with the rubber bushing. The top requires a deep socket and I have a johnson bar for added leverage. I did break the link which is fine, I have a whole new assembly.
For the bottom below the ball socket joint, there is a spot to put a 17mm wrench, then the nut under the control arm is an 18mm. Loosen and remove the nut. Using a hammer, the bushing and washer can be removed above the sway bar mounting point.
Moving over to the driver’s side, turning the front of the wheel out. This side wasn’t seized so I was able to use a wrench and ratchet to remove the nut. Remove the bushing and washer on the top portion. Remove the nut from the control arm portion. I have already disconnected the other side, now is rotating up the swap bar to disconnect the links, then remove.
It’s important to compare the old and new links to ensure they are the same. These only install in one orientation, on the sway bar mounting side, first is the metal washer, then a bushing, then the sway bar mounts in the middle, next is another bushing, washer, and finally the nut. A rubber safe lubricant can be used to help push the bushings into place. There is no need for thread locker, the top using a nylock, while the bottom uses a stover nut, both forms of locking fasteners.
Putting the driver’s side into place, the nut just gets started by hand on the control arm side. Do not tighten it just yet. On the top, I didn’t install the top bushing for extra movement, but did however install the washer and only started the nut by hand.
Next is moving onto the opposite side, I didn’t turn the wheel this time as there is enough room under the truck.
With no bushing on the other side, this gives us a little extra movement to remove and install the links.
Make sure the bushing and washer that goes under the sway are installed. Insert it on the sway bar side, then bend the ball joint, and insert it into the control arm.
The bushing and washer with nut get installed above the sway bar then.
Going back to the driver’s side, tighten the lower 18mm nut, an 18mm wrench is also required to prevent the link from spinning. The torque specifications for the control arm nut is 75ft lbs or 102nm. Between the new and old links, I did find the sizes required for sockets and wrenches to be different.
Remove the nut and washer, install the bushing, then the washer, and finally nut. As you can see the sway bar is between the two bushings. The new nut is a 17mm and to prevent the sway bar from spinning, a 15mm wrench is required. The torque specifications for the sway bar nut is 20ft lbs or 27nm.
Turning the wheel back out on the passenger side to tighten the link, again using the same procedure.
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26 мар 2020
