Nice video. I started watching your battery load test. I will say that I have the exact Titan double-flaring tool. But on the car on the steel OEM line (Mazda 3 in my case) it’s not so facile. I think you have to have a hydraulic flaring tool like the Mastercool 72485. I double-flared my 4 wheels to accept new flexible brake line, using the Mastercool. I found this manual tool you have (Titan-Franklin) was best to straighten out the ripple of “unbent” line. This to prepare the line for the hydraulic flaring tool. You have to spend $ on the hydraulic tools. The hand held tool only works on the bench with soft copper-nickel spare brake line. Cheers!
Hi, thanks for your comment! I’m not doubting the experience that you had but in this video, I flare the existing steel pipe using the Franklin, so that I can join in a new section. The only thing I did differently is to make sure the clamping bolts were very tight! ru-vid.compeZLOlsCFvc?si=vM4axiPhRqM7uVVS cheers, Phil
You don't need to risk damaging the end of the brake pipe with the stop if you fit the stop first while the two 10 mm bolts are still slack enough for the pipe to be gently pushed up against the stop.
I am completely new to making flares, but i have to say this little tool that comes in so many different brands of packaging will yield the most beautiful flares...if you do it right which is not a massive learning curve. I used steel piping and that takes a LOT more force to get the job done but it does work just as well as with copper piping.
Yeah, it's a great little tool isn't it! SOunds like you have got the hang of it but if it interests you, I have a video on making a section of brake line and joining it onto one on the car. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Qn5DtuE7EJA.html Cheers, Phil
Got one of these flaring tools. They don't chew the pipe up unlike the cheap clamp type tools. Very easy to set up and operate. Produces perfect flares.
@BRADSWAND Yeah, they're really great aren't they! I tried a few and when I came across this one, I was like yeah, that's the one to have! Hence, I wanted to do a video and share. 👍😀
I had one of the clamp style flaring tools. Did a job and 1/2 the flares leaked. Threw that tool in the trash and bought one of these newer style flaring tools for the win.
This is a great video... thank You.... I just got my flaring tool last week... haven't used it yet.... you did a great job going through step by step... much appreciated... Thank You!
Thanks a lot! I made the video because initially, I wasn't getting very good double flare results. Once I got it all worked out, step by step, I thought it was a good topic for a video guide! 👍
I had to replace a section of 1/4" 409 stainless on my '80 Chevy 3/4 ton truck that was damaged by a "professional" mechanic. The 1/4" version of this tool was the only one that would flare the 409 stainless on my truck (inside the frame).
Interesting to know and thanks for sharing. I knew the tool cool flare mild steel but stainless is much harder, good to know that it works with it! It's a great little tool isn't it! 👍
Am I correct in thinking that you should be using a DIN flaring tool not an SAE one? The underside of the DIN flare is flat, to match the DIN fitting...? This is soooo confusing as the market is flooded with a mixture of both, seemingly interchangeable, but they're not.... 🤔
Found this info, which hopefully will help you! “SAE flares are tapered on both sides of the flare. So the nut has an internal taper as well as the fitting the pipe goes to. DIN are flat on the back of the flare, so the nut is also flat faced.” So, it looks like the double flares I used were SAE and it’s just important that the fittings are tapered on the inside to take this shape. Cheers, Phil
Hi. Excellent video!! Thinking of getting one of these. Can you tell me what the difference is between a single and double flare. And how to know which one to use? Thanks
Hard to explain, single flare is like the end of a trumpet, just 1 funnel type shape. Double flare is like a donut shape that is formed in the pipe. Almost all, brake pipe flaring joints your find on a car will be double flare. Buy the tool, it’s brilliant and will save you the cost many times over. Can also flare steel pipe. Cheers, Phil
That simple tool is accurate and contained/ that split wing nut tool is no good because the dies DON t have a right size steam and cannot center properly / that has been out there over 50 years ! Eye believe that it's intentional somehow the industry don't want diy to fix there own stuff.
I got this exact tool based on this video. It does indeed make very nice flares on the copper nickel stuff, however on steel pipe it doesn't clamp tight enough to keep the pipe in position due to the extra force required. This makes it not so useful for on car repairs when repairing OE steel pipe. Any tips on flaring steel pipe?
Hi @pugboat Not sure what is going wrong for you but I have used the tool successfully on steel pipes quite a few times. As you say, to join a new length of brake line to existing steel brake lines on the car. I just have the following tips which may help: If your brake lines have paint or any other type of coating on them, you have to trim it right back, ideally using some fine wet and dry sandpaper. Then get the exterior of the pipe, where the clamp is going to operate as clean and dry as possible, I use brake cleaner and then wipe it down. Clean the inside of the clamp too in the same way. Any liquid, grease etc in these areas will allow the clamp to slide. I'm sure you are doing this anyway but ensure you tighten up the clamp bolts evenly, half a turn on one, half a turn on the other. Repeat until it is tight and use a ring spanner or socket to get it REALLY tight. After that, it is the normal flaring process. I hope this helps you some! Thanks, Phil
Thanks for the video, I need to do this while the pipe is on the car so will be a bit more fiddly, how do I attach the screws that go into the ABS pump?
Hi @alfashowroom sometimes I reuse the fittings. So I would detach the pipe from the ABS pump, see how the end of the brake type is formed (probably a double flare). If so, then cut the end off of the pipe and retain the fitting to use again. Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
Thank you! Normally you would put the male end onto the pipe, then do the double flare as shown, then screw it into a coupling or fitting. Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
You are THE Man!! Thank you very much for the demo and instructions. Exactly what I was looking for. Very helpful. I liked and subscribed. I am looking forward to more of your videos, but right now I gotta get back out to my corroded old dodge dakota and splice in new brake lines. Not a good feeling when you step on your brake pedal and it goes to the floor... Thanks again... 2 thumbs up!!!
Hey, thanks very much! Good to have another car diy’er as a subscriber. No brakes situation sounds scary 😦 Hope you get the truck sorted 👍 cheers, Phil
Hi @rustdawg7364 Thanks for the comment but it worked for me! See this video for visual evidence, I flare the existing steel pipe on the car, so that I can use a straight connector to join in a new section of brake pipe. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Qn5DtuE7EJA.html Thanks, Phil
Just got a similar tool. When I clamp the pipe tight enough to hold it secure for the punch, I find that the pipe is badly marked. It ends up with seam marks down each side where the two clamp pieces meet. Not sure if its acceptable to file or sand these down or if the tool I have is for the bin.
Just a thought…. I believe there are two tools depending on what size brake pipe you are working with. Mine is a 3/16 tool and that is the sized pipe I use it with. If you are using a small tool on the larger pipe, which was 1/4 maybe that is the issue? I think the larger size is only in older vehicles though, so a long shot, might be worth measuring though! I wouldn’t file down the outside of the pipe, risk of weakening the pipe. Failing that, yeah, I would think about changing the tool. Cheers, Phil
It's definitely 3/16. I found that the edges on the clamp where the pipe go through were very sharp. I took a round file to it to smooth it off and that resolved the pipe crimping issue. Unfortunately, the quality of the flare is not acceptable as it is slightly deformed. Determined to succeed, I've ordered a more expensive, higher quality version of the tool. Should arrive next week. Buy cheap, buy twice certainly held true here.....
New Laser flare tool arrived. It's the double head one that supports SAE and DIN flares. What a difference....first test flare was perfect and the tool feels much more robust. Seemed to take much less effort to press the flare too.
Great Video on how to make the Double Flare. I have the same tool, except mine is the Lisle brand part# 33260, might have purchased it off Amazon. Does the 3/16" and the 1/4" tubing. Also bought 25 feet of 3/16" Nickle/Copper Brake line. Saw one Video where the guy used Copper line which is not to be used for Brake lines. He said he is located in the UK, and is legal to use there.??? Don`t think so. These nifty little tools are all made in China from what I see. Charlie
Hi Charlie, I think normal copper is still legal and people use it on their classic cars in the UK but best practice is definitely Copper/Nickel now. Agree, I see a lot of the exact tools with all sorts of different branding on them but they do seem to be well made. Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide I used the Lisle tool first time yesterday afternoon. First double Fare, and came out perfect. Now if I can replicate the 2 lines from the MC down to the proportioning Valve on the Frame, and copy Ford`s zigzaggy bends and make it all line up. Charlie
@@user-my8wf6ph5h Well done getting the double flare right first time, must confess, it took me a few tries! Yes, there's hours of fun to be had shaping the brake line and starting again if you kink the pipe! 😂
@petersomthing9508 Yeah, it is definitely convenient. I would really struggle without this feature! but with a bit of experimentation I suppose you could work out the correct length, let's say it is 8mm, once you know this for sure, you could start marking the distance on your pipe before inserting it into the tool. Cheers, Phil
