I find step bits often make better deburring tools than countersinks because they are self-centering and don't chatter. They're also the easiest way to center a bigger hole on an existing hole, especially if you are drilling freehand. In thicker stock use the step bit to enlarge the hole then switch bits to go deeper
Great info, thank you. A neat little trick I picked up is to place several layers of cloth patch under the drill bit when drilling thin sheet metal. Doing that avoids the drill bit's tendency to grab as it clears the hole and leaves controlled beautifully circular clean holes. I’d like to claim the idea but I learned it from someone else on YT. Works a dream every time.
I do a lot of work with stainless (304 and 316 mostly), and the key is to keep the friction low. sharp cutting edge, cooling and/or lubrication, slow rpm (around 300 I think), and plenty of feed pressure. if you don't press hard enough, the bit is dragging while cutting, which builds up heat and instantly work hardens the metal, and quickly dulls the bit...it's really a downward spiral from there.
@@TimWelds It's not the heat that hardens this series of SS, it's the work hardening process itself that hardens the 304 and especially the 316. This series of SS is not hardenable with heat, however working the metal as in rubbing does indeed harden it. The statement is quite correct in maintaining that an aggressive cut is what is required to avoid this tendency in work hardening steels, and there are a number of them.
Stainless steel hates my guts. Not sure what I did to it but it loves to make life difficult for me, whenever it can. I suspect my taps are in cahoots, they wait until the last hole, then snap off with hardly anything protruding. Stainless burns me more often than any other metal, and having my die grinder burrs chatter suddenly will surely give me PTSD eventually. My die grinder is possessed, but that's another topic.
Does it help to lift the drill bit out of the metal periodically to cool everything? I have three drill presses and use them a fair amount but am pretty sure I still have a lot to learn.
@@thardyryll No, it's not the heat that hardens this series of SS. It is not hardenable by heat, no carbon in it to make that work. It work hardens by the rubbing of the drill bit against the metal that makes it hard. As soon as the drill stops cutting a thin layer at that boundary function gets super hard. The best thing you can do is to feed it aggressively. As soon as the chips stop coming off of the cut, it's game over and time for a carbide end mill or grinder. GRRR!
At school we were each given a broken bit, which we then had to sharpen. After drilling half way through a bar (that we had just hacksawed and filed square) we shut off the drill press then unchucked the bit with it still in the workpiece. Instructor put the calipers on the protruding swarf and gave us a grade, never actually looking at the drill bit
Very useful video, Tim. I have been doing metalworking only for a few years since I retired. I'm not particularly good at it, but it's lots of fun. I have found that drilling holes accurately in metal, but also in wood is a bit more challenging than I had anticipated. I had a lot of frustration with hardware store automatic punches. A few months ago I decided to spend the money on a Starrett automatic punch, which was pretty expensive but works a lot better. With my aging eyesight I find it necessary to scribe a small cross in the middle of the surface, and then find the junction by feel with the tip of a punch. I used to use a spotting drill to start a hole if it needed to be accurate, but split point bits work just as well. Keep up the good work Tim. I purchased your entire set of instructional videos and they are great.😮
I have a pair of dedicated welding magnets that l keep with my drillpress. I will either run the drill bit through the hole in the magnet or place them near where l'm drilling. They work really well for catching the material spit out by the bit (obviously only works with steel). Then with gloves on l clean the magnet off. They probably catch about 80 to 90% of the shavings. Really helps keep my shop clean. Cheers.
Good idea. You could also place the magnet in a small plastic bag. Then you can take the magnet out of the bag when you are ready to cleanly remove the collected swarth.
@@petcatznz. SUPER IDEA. I am going to use that with the modification of turning the plastic bag inside out. Then as I pull it off the magnet it will go more easily to gather and remove. Going to try it both ways. Thanks!
What I do sometimes to scratch a line with a tungsten scriber is to take a medium sandpaper around 220 to 320 and just run it over the areas I’m going to mark. It gives a matte finish and only takes a few seconds. Then the lines stand out. If that isn’t a problem for the finish, then it works well for when you don’t have anything handy, or don’t want to “paint” something on the surface. Those chips are a bit too thin. More pressure would be better. Drill bits are designed for a fair amount of pressure. If the pressure is too low, you actually get more heat produced. For stainless, a lot of pressure at a slower speed is best so that the stainless doesn’t work harden. What’s actually happening is that the stainless is work hardening, but more pressure forces the cutting edges below that continuously created hardening. For the best results if you use a lot of stainless, I recommend going to McMastercarr and buying bits specifically designed for stainless for the hole sizes you need most often. This is like buying sheet metal bits, etc. They really do work much better, and only cost a couple,e bucks, or so for smaller sizes. For plastic, a 60-90 degree cutting edge. You can get bits for that too. Of you drill acrylic, they are highly recommended, or carefully grinding the cutting edges of 118 degree bits so that they are less aggressive. I grind them to where they are parallel to the length of the drill bit.
Thanks Mel, I appreciate the tips! I'll have to play with the pressure a bit. That old drill press probably needs some new belts because it starts slipping if I get after it very much with any over a 3/8" drill.
@@TimWelds Try to get V-belts that have a kind of teeth; not timing belts, but teethed V-belts. Those are more flexible than plain common v-belts, and seem to grab much better on the pulleys, reducing slippage. I have a poor quality "Crapsman" small table bench with six speeds that seems to have improved with that type of belt. I bought the belt at a local GATES RUBBER distributor, and due to its much better (softer and more flexible) material, it consumes much less power than the absolute garbage-quality chinese belt that came installed from factory, which helped with the underpowered motor. Best Luck!
Scribing is often a bad idea on aluminum parts as it provides a fatigue crack initiation site. Not a big deal for projects that don’t see cyclic loads, but for fabrication of airplane parts and such, scribing is generally discouraged or prohibited. Less of an issue with steel, but can still cause problems in parts subject to high cyclic loads.
@@TimWelds I am building an airplane and when hole placement accuracy is very important, I will create a template that can be scribed or whatever to get a couple of #40 locating holes drilled. I then can use the template to drill into the actual parts with a #40 and then final size from there and get pretty accurate placement with no need to mar the real part.
When I machining different materials I look for different signs. Like you said in the video , with aluminum the thickness of the chips will tell if you are at the right speed , but since it's aluminum it would really matter because it won't damage anything but the finish if you're going to fast. With steels, whether mild or hardened you can tell a lot from the color of the chips. Typically the darker the chip the faster you are going. I'll accept some bronzing even though I know that means my RPMs are to high. If you are getting purple or even worse black chips you are going to fast and are hardeneding your workpiece and damaging your tools. Also you can tell if your drill bit is sharp and evenly grounded by the chip length , long and even chips coming from both cutting edges means you have a sharp and even cutting tool.
When drilling large holes (1/4 +) in steel, start by drilling a pilot hole (1/8 split point 135 degree bit) all the way through the material. Even though you have to change out a bit this a lot faster than drilling with one large bit.
There's a couple magnetic tools for picking up chips where you just pull back on the handle to slide the magnet back and everything drops right off of it. They're often used for cleaning out the water table on a CNC plasma cutter or the waste tray on small lathes.
Why not? 🙂A pilot hole only needs to be wider that the web of the drill bit used to finish a hole. And IMO 1/8" is a fine go to or spotter for 1/4" to 3/4" or so holes.
Hi, one more trick for your vise if possible put the handle up against the support post. This way if the drill did catch the vise won’t turn and with the clamp won’t lift up either. I like the general speed rule for drills. The issue with cutting stainless is the titanium will work, will dull quickly, the cobalt will work much better. You do need to make sure the drill is cutting continuously. If not the nickel in the stainless will coat the cutting edge and from there you need to stop and remove the chips and nickel from the cutting edge. Remember cobalt drills are more brittle than HSS high speed steel and if using a hand drill and small drills they will break easily. The double ended center drills are mostly used in machining on lathes and mills. I love the FULL set of letter, number and decimal drills you have. Great video 👍
I used to do that. However, the problem is that twist drills are not designed to be used that way. With a regular drill i.e. not one with a split point, a pilot hole just larger than the chisel section of the drill should be drilled, then the final drill size. Stepping up runs the risk of the hole drifting off and the drill cutting edge being damaged. With split point drills it is only necessary to have a pilot hole large enough for the drill to centre in, as there is no chisel section that needs clearance.
When I started my metal work internship I went through a lot of drill bits... and my thumb hurt. There was a lot of drilling. A lot better now but drilling holes in stainless steel above your head is still a pain in the ass.
Have you ever tried an optical center punch? On-Mark was an old brand is now offered by Fowler. Grizzly and others have versions too. There’s a clear piece that magnifies the scribed mark on the part. Some have a crosshairs and some have a bullseye. Line that up, hold it in place and swap the punch into where the magnifier was and give it a light tap to mark the material so you can locate the center punch to mark it with a heavier hit.
I was expecting some discussion of feed rate. Put some pressure on the drill, make the drill work, peck to break the chip, and ease off a little as you break through.
DeWalt Extreme drill bits are made by German BBW (Bayrnishe Bohrerwerke) company (if you got "Made in Germany" on the package) are a solid drill bits with Cobalt and hardened core. From 6 or 7mm, they have special tip to easily center the drill bit and the shank is not round, so it holds better in the drill/drill press.
Ugh, why do you have to be this good at this. I already have too many hobbies. I just came here to learn a little bit before drilling into metal for the first time. Now I have to subscribe and spend hours binging your fab videos. A budding fabrication hobby isn’t expensive, is it? Sigh. Maybe no new golf clubs next year…
You gave some good information about drills, but wearing safety glasses and gloves is also a good idea. When removing swarf use a paint brush not fingers.
I got an adaptor to fit annular cutters in my drill press. That's all I use for anything bigger than 13mm these days. Far faster and cutters are a lot cheaper than drill bits in larger sizes.
Thanks for sharing these tips, Tim, definitely some great ones here! Norseman Viking drill bits like the ones you showed is my favorite metal fab purchase so far. Hope to get the big set like you had on your table in the future. Got tired of buying those sets from the big box stores over and over. The Starrett spring loaded punches are a close 2nd fav for me. Recently I had to lay out some very precise hole locations, which for me means they had to be within about 0.10 mm or better. I managed to get it done with a cheap carpenters cobo square, cheap digital calipers, the starrett punches, and a razor blade as the scribe. I wish I had known about layout fluid, that sure would have helped. Thanks again, Tim, this was a great video!
Thanks for the summary. I've always had issues with clamping my metal vice to the drill press table, as you've stated. The holes never seem to line up.
Great information as always! I’ve been steadily elevating my metal drilling game over the past year, and these little tricks and tips make a huge difference. When I have the right drill bit, for the material with the right speed and plunge rate, it makes the entire process a pleasure! The next chapter in my quest will be drill bit sharpening. 😳
Hello Tim, If I'm drilling a hole that I want to look nice, I pick the next size smaller - drill the hole - then switch to the intended size dill and redrill the hole. The second step is basically reaming the hole. It also saves the intended drill. That is, if I want to drill a 1/4" hole, the one that is 1/32" smaller does most of the work, so my 1/4" drill (which is a more common size) will last longer. Regards,
Thank you for the video. As an advanced novice I found your tips and explanations very informative and well presented. I’ve subscribed and off to scribe something 😁
I typically just look at the color and how the chips are breaking off the bit. As a machinist we aren’t as picky about the chips but more the setup and vibration. It’s all about drilling straight and precise and vibration kills both of those. Stay rigid and listen to tools feedback adjust accordingly. Also coolant makes drilling an ease when it’s available.
Tool pressure is often overlooked with drilling. Lower RPM than you'd probably think is good, and basically no drill press can actually achieve the needed pressure. I already have S&F charts on the wall, and it still surprises me now and then.
I we had guy working for us for a short while he was tasked to drill 3/16 holes into 3/16 A36 sheets, he killed 6 bits in a matter of minutes. I was like WTF? he said: " you told me to drill why did you tell me to drill?" Anyway Tim showed a bit 135 degree you can get it in home depot at most parts in a set, are pretty good, Once I counted we drilled 876 holes with the 3/8 bit into 3/8 flat bars before I had to sharpen it. Also common mistake when you have to drill free hand you gotto keep it perpendicular to work pc and avoid heat build up.
Great video as usual Tim. Everyone should at the very least have some knowledge in sharpening drills. Too many people I see will smoke a drill or break one and throw it away
Most of our home shop work is fairly thin. Up to 3/8" thick. I was told about step bits maybe a year ago. Like them a LOT. I do buy special bits for drilling hard steel.
I use step bits for holes larger than 1/4 for drilling up to 1/4 inch thick mild steel. The holes are cleaner, and if you ease the beginning of the next step into the cut then deburring is done. Flip quickly for the other side. For 3/8" and larger holes in thicker mild steel, I will drill a 1/8 or so pilot. For 3/4" holes I'll use 3 bits. I was taught to try and get a continuous chip, after the ends of the cutting edges go into the hole. Also there's a feeling you get when the bit is cutting well, kind of smooth and soapy, hard to explain. I like the idea of 5/8 holes in the press table, I have a strong hand welding cart with the same accessories you showed. Don't know why I didn't consider it before. I do a fair amount of hand-holding, both in the vise and without if the part is big enough. I do keep in mind what will happen if the part catches, and position it so that it will hit the column before anything. I also use a caliper for marking, and when the centerline is involved I'll run the mark from both sides and put the punch between the lines. For super precision when punching, I like to gently tap the punch, inspect the small mark, and if good, I let the tip find the mark and deepen it. If it needs moved the light mark won't interfere.
If I can offer a suggestion. If you have multiple pieces of equipment you may want variable speed on, or have 3ph motors but only single phase power, then use the stock motors and get a VFD that you can plug in and swap between them.
Hey Mr Tim, been watching you for years, always great stuff...... this was a great tutorial on drilling.......and I drill a lot in all the same materials.....I actually use the same formula for drill speeds as you do.... and I teach others the same thing, if they use the info, I will never know, haha.... I prefer the Weldon style counter sinks with one hole in them, if you have never used, you should try one....and I also use the slowest speed I can countersinking or chamfering that I can to keep from getting chatter, Your chip load and swarf looked good to me......if it is nice and curly it is great.... long stringy chips too much feed, and if tiny tiny chunks, way to slow , as you are just rubbing and that dulls the bit....... thanks for a great video , cheers from Florida, Paul
Tim, I stumbled across this video and listened with great interest because I make knives and have to drill holes for handle pins and lightening handles for balancing. This brings up another skill I would like to have, welding. However, I have not pursued this because typically it is only very small welds like welding steel screw onto hidden metal tang for bolting down handle material or repair. Also, what type of welding machine? Best value welder, simplest to use, etc. I would take your course but don't even know where to begin and don't want to spend to much or purchase welder that is cheap junk. Thanks for your help. Jump'nJak
I just spent all morning drilling a, (one), hole in a 1" bar, that I broke a bit off in the first poke.. Actually never got a hole completely through, but used every cobalt bit that I had that was in the 1/4" range. I will only buy cobalt but good quality is expensive and hard to find. Really a problem breaking a bit off in a piece of metal. Waddle you do about that!
Machinist here. As per request, you're not feeding hard enough. You'd be amazed at what the actual feed per rev of a twist drill is. You can't hang on the lever of your drill press hard enough to feed a drill properly over about 1/4". It should be curling chips out large enough that you can hear them bounce on the floor. It's hard to appreciate what a good twist drill can do until you've seen what real machines can push them to.
The world of machining isn't limited to the bits in a drill index. So yes, you can hear chips hit the floor! What's most important is that the leading edges are cutting and not rubbing...rubbing will simply dull the bit. For hobbiest', run slow and pull hard to transfer heat into the chip and less into the bit. Also break the the chip by retracting. All of this applies to drilling holes about 3/16 and up for the hobbiest'. Smaller holes, use what we call a pecking feed cause YOU (which is everyone) cannot feel the cutting through the handle. Honestly there is so much more to this topic that a non-professional would just not be able to comprehend. We're talking volumes of information from material type, to coolant for a material (don't use compressed air with air hardening, oil with oil hardening, water with water hardening), and that the typical "center drill" isn't for drill spotting...ITS FOR A LATHE CENTER! So don't ever go beyond the pilot and into the taper. Like I said this is a topic that someone could make a career out of.
I have an old 12v drill with a step bit in my quick grab area by the drill press. I can deburr quicker with that then changing out to a countersink or step bit in the drill press.
I am new to this so I look around for tutorials and your video came up I found it very informative 🙌🏻 one question could you tell me the name or the clamp you used at last I think I need one of those 🙂
Hi Tim Maybe you just misspoke and you meant the opposite but just to clarify: When chips are thin you said - Increasing the speed and going easier. That creates even thinner chips and even risks the bit to overheat. Too low feeding speed (in relation to turning speed) makes a drill bit rub instead of cutting and the friction heat ruins a drill bit in literally a second. If you want thicker, holding spiral like chips - increase your feeding speed. Kind regards Anders Sweden
Thanks, I appreciate it! Based on this and a couple other comments, I was unclear about tool pressure and feed rate. You are completely correct. On this drill press, I'm limited to some extent by the belt slipping, but when possible It would be better to feed a little faster.
@@TimWelds need to add some praise.. Your tutoring skills are so next level! 🙌🏻 Followed you since your start and it’s a pleasure watching! /Anders To put in perspective…I am retired since long but have decades of hands on experience in fabrication and production and R&D in the automotive industry. In teaching too and with that said - your videos are really good so thx!
You can't over-stress the importance of clamping! Especially if you have to drill large holes in thin sheet metal. If it's something you are likely to do quite a lot it is worth buying a hole cutting kit like a Q-max to avoid the need to do it.
Thanks Tim Do you have any video on how to center a new hole in a flange using an existing hole in another flange to match the two holes precisely together? if you do please point me to it, if you don't please make one. Thanks again
I don't have a video about that, but If I understand what you're describing, you can do it easily with a set of transfer pushes. They slide into the existing hole and center punch the location in the new flange.
@@TimWelds Thanks Tim, appreciate your reply, it was clear but I didn't understand what you meant by "centre pushes" at first but then I assumed you wrote it by mistake and you meant "center punchs" so I searched it and found them, exactly what I was asking about, I never knew they existed 😂 Thanks again.
As a machinist, I'm not looking to get drill press swarf. I prefer a peck drill because it breaks the chips. There are exceptions to every rule, though. I'm also looking for chatter. The holes should look smooth and clean, but no one is perfect. Blowout is avoided by slowing down when the bit is about to exit. For chamfering holes, be aware that spindle speed can matter based on the size of the hole and the diameter of the chamfer. For example, if you have a 1/2" 5 flute chamfer bit on a 1/4" hole, you could experience chatter that gives you a six sided star pattern that could have ruined your part. Use test pieces of the same material until you're familiar with the behavior of your particular chamfer bits.
Centerpunching can work-harden the surface of the metal, causing the drill to wander off the dimple. There is a correct speed range for every material/cutting tool combination. Cutting slower does not improve results or tool life. High speed steel drilling aluminum surface-feet per minute is about 400, drilling mild steel is about 100 sfm. The rpm for a 1/4" HSS drill in mild steel is 1200/(pi*.25)=1528.
Two factors: as much as you can without overheating the bit or work. Production is key, so do it fast and reliable. Constantly changing bits is time consuming. I worked with a steel ship builder and asked why he was sticking it together? Save that for detail and get mig rigs. He finally did and profits went up along with production.
From what I understand, it depends. Generally speaking, too slow is better than too fast and will work fine if you take your time and feed at an appropriate rate. In some cases, I've had the cutting edge bind on the material/chips and break the tool when drilling too slow. It worked much better at higher speed with the same model of drill and same material. Not that the hole was better, but it was definitely better for the tool. That's what I've found, but I'm sure others have had a variety of experiences. It never hurts to test it out and if it works in your situation, go for it.
Some good tips Tim, thank you! I do have to wonder though as to how effective a few drops of lube is after 3 seconds into the cut. Without flood lube or coolant is there anything left at the cutting edge/workpiece interface?
I'm a self taught machinist so take this with a grain of salt... On your first drilled hole I would have applied more pressure and/or possibly slowed down... Also would have gone with wd-40 for aluminum. Would be curious to see what you think if you try it out.
Ok 35 years in sheetmetal and welding trades , stainless is NOT harder than mild steel, in fact it’s softer and one drill will last forever if 1 drill slowly with pressure ( very slow speed ) use drill cutting compound like trefolex , make sure it doesn’t get to hot if so more compound, sometime if I’m stuck with say 1/8 rivet drill but I’ll drill through some spit , ( any port in a storm) stainless gauls very quickly, and work hardens extraordinarily quickly , that’s why it’s used in custom precision rifle barrels , stainless is not very malleable , ie it should never be used in a winch cable or working cable , it’s only for static lines , otherwise it will break very quickly, ask any WLL certification place, Stainless/ high pressure on the press or hand drill , keep it cool by any means , test your material, 304 and above are not magnetic, and you can do a spark test to see carbon content, some knives and things that are hard are not really stainless as we generally think of it , you will find this harder stainless will rust in a corrosive environment, , but you can’t have your cake and eat it , so it’s great to have but you still have to keep it oiled or painted etc , you have probably never heard of stainless axe heads , they would go blunt annoyingly quickly , if it’s 304 / 316 it is easy to drill , but if you let it get hot it will instantly work harden and ruin your drill bit , I’ve ran into so many tradesmen even in their 50s still don’t know this , I’ve had to buy lots of bits in the past because my employees didn’t follow my instructions
The reason knives became stainless across the board is for sanitary purposes not because they are good for knives, in fact they make hopeless knives , black carbon steel holds its edge at a guess 20 to 40 times longer , all very old butcher knives were black steel, and they are easier to sharpen and hold their edge, hope this helps someone, I’ll think I’ll make a RU-vid tutorial on drilling stainless myself, not bagging this feed it has some very good information, just a note on stainless drilling, which I have done a lot of, have a great day night ppl
😂 I built a little stand for it with leveling feet, but I slid it over to film more easily and didn't level it again. My floor is about as flat as a Pringle potato chip so it was wobbling a bit.
My biggest annoyance with the drill press is the table angle doesn’t hold still. No matter how hard I torque it down. Changing angle mid cut is awful for the hole and the bit
Bought a plasma cutter, haven't even looked at a drill ever since. No bits, no problems, holes through 1.5 inch steel plate in 25 seconds. Holes are for fasteners, fasteners are for people who can't weld lol. Haven't used a bolt since I learned to weld either. Lol
Cable railings? Parts designed to be removable? Stairways/furniture where wood attaches to metal? I've tried to weld oak to mild steel, couldn't get it to work and the shop smelled like a forest fire. I'm still learning, so maybe someday...
@wellscampbell9858 for cable railings I'd plasma cut the holes, then chase them with a step bit to clean the dross, then weld in place once tight. Removable? That's what grinders and plasma cutters are for, As far as wood, why use an inferior material, steel is always better than wood lol. All joking aside, yes there are of course reasons to use fasteners, I was just being facetious, however a plasma cutter does make for a handy tool when putting holes in stuff.
@@jasonburguess Interesting. I know a bit about cutting with plasma but nothing about making holes (gouging?) I have a plasma cutter, it's a miller spectrum 375. Small box with a handheld pistol grip head. I use it for cutting, and can do 1/2" if I'm steady, which I think may exceed the rated thickness. Not sure but I believe it's on the smaller end of what's available. What's your technique, and any idea if mine will work for holes?
@wellscampbell9858 techniques for cutting holes with plasma are very similar to using an oxyacetylene torch, pilot arc is very helpful, but not necessarily required. Strike the arc very close to the location of your desired hole, having marked it using soapstone or other high temp marking, then aim the arc into the material at a slight angle, as the heat increases molten material will start to blow out at an angle, slowly decrease your torch angle until your basically straight in, eventually you'll pierce through, then carefully follow your marked line keeping speed steady enough to let the stream of ejected molten material blow straight down, if it's blowing out at an angle your probably going too fast. After cutting the hole, knock off the slag/dross around the hole, and chase hole with a bit to deburr the hole. Not great for small holes but 1/2" or bigger, works great. As with anything, practice makes perfect
Anytime I drill with a pillar drill, I challenge myself to getting as long a bit of swarf as possible. Mind you that's easier with a infinitely variable speed drill
Chips wadding up around the drill is beacuse your feeding to slow. I dont peck if the material is less than the drill diameter, but i use mostly screw machne.
I like the fine point of the Sharpie pen but the ink runs out so soon, I have several of them that have run out but the other thicker end is still going strong. I'm done with buying that brand now, currently trying a pack of 5, different colours bought for a £1 in a cheap shop.
I, too, have given up on Sharpie markers in the shop. They either run dry too quickly, or they get contaminated with a little dust or oil and they stop writing. Surprisingly, I got a pack of markers from Harbor Freight and they work great. Even if I mark a piece of oily steel, they keep on working and make nice bold lines. They're cheaper than Sharpies, too.
Nice video. As an ex-machinist (40 years ago) , at 10:00 minutes I would say that the speed is way too high. There are to many small chips, they need to be longer curly-cues originating from the tip of the bit. Just saying. I wonder if anyone else (who knows what they are talking about) would agree.
