Thank you for sharing,, I looked everywhere trying to figure this out, finely someone did it... God bless you and your family. I’m digging one this coming spring.
Damn good video. Larry needs his own show - the man has presentation talent! Very easy to follow, and no emotional angst crap, dragging the video out...
Mr,Larry and his buddy,when y’all dig that well using the point , I’m impressed about the way y’all did it ,y’all the best!!!!, thank y’all for y’all good way to explain all that easy 👍
I rented a Rhino PD55 compressed air post driver (55 lbs) with a 2in driver adapter. It fits the 1.25" drive couplings perfectly. I also rented a 70 cfm compressor. Didn't find that on RU-vid, took some research. Also rented a 5ft blowout tube, since the high cfm setup uses a special air coupling (2 hold down ears). Folks evidently use this setup to put in dock posts and clear them out. I'm an older guy with a heart condition and there was no way I was hand driving something like this. Hope this helps, good luck to all!
widetracker inkazoo Thanks for sharing the mechanical driver techniques with us and the follow up correction regarding the need for the 3.25" adapter. How deep did you go with yours, and how fast did it go with your set up? TIA!
Well this and the comments been real helpful, I purchased a cottage property with a two inch well pipe, I didn't have access to the well until recently, the well head was 20 inches below the surface and I was expecting to see a standard well casing. Any who they had a brass elbow screwed on the top then three reducers to take a metal 1 inch metal pipe connector of which they ran a one inch plastic line to the cottage. Surprisingly there were no check valves when we purchased the cottage and priming became was a problem (until I got my hands on a Wajax manual forestry pump 3 " suction line primer) then I installed a check valve 1/2 between the pump and the well which solved the problem, but at that time I figured the problem was with a bad foot valve in the well. Any way this video is very informative for me, thanks.
I drove my well with 2" PVC sleeve 10' then a 1"1/2 galvanized pipe coupling that I filed teeth on the end connected to 1 1/2 Pvc that I washed down over 25' and where I met rock I used the homes metal guard in front of my waterheater to keep the car from hitting it. just as Larry did. i made my own well point with a piece of composite counter top scrap from an upgrade to grannet. I sanded it to a point and glued it in the end of a 1 1/2 Pvc pipe and cut fine slits along side up 24". After I made the point and put it in I saw a well point in Home Depot.
Larry gets a healthy dose of exercise... Drive away Herr Larry.,.. I would install an old school pitcher hand pump as well... just in case the power goes down... Maybe even a good idea to get a 275 gal. IBC tote and place it in the well shed next to the pump... Nice to have water in the yard and again if the power goes down or some other mishap... Nice touch, drinking water from a moonshine jar... ;-)
I'm glad I didn't see this before the men showed up at my place to drive a well. The thought of two days pounding probably would have scared everyone off! We managed to find a mechanical assist for lifting the 90 pound weight, but not until they had about 14' in the ground.
I loved the reference to the Bob Newhart show, of Larry, Darrell & his other brother Derrell at the very end. "Anything for a buck, Larry"...:-). Nice job on the well & video.
Thanks for posting this!!! Watching it gave me confidence that I can do it. Just put a shack on our land near Cuyuna and am going to give this a try next spring. I will report back!
Nice job guys, thanks for the info. 80 lb driver too much for me. I'm going with an electric driver at my local rental tool company, they also supply the correct size cap to fit over driver. Thanks again.
My wife and I drove one 35 years ago with a Model A axle, using the heavy differential gear as the driver. We didn't use a driving cap- put a coupling on top, then inserted the axle into the pipe, and repeatedly picked it up and dropped it. That lined it up, and made every lick balanced and solid. We were in very sandy land, and my memory is that we stopped at about 15' , plus the pipe above ground. Put a pitcher pump on top, and had all the clean, cold water we needed. I'm planning to do it again soon (different location). I no longer have the axle, though, so I need to find a new "tool".
Damn, when your well guy shows up with a boat, he must have had some huge water experience. bwaaahaaaa Thanks so much. I believe I can do this. In Mx. gov water sucks and is unreliable.
Did that for 3 weeks through 30 feet of solid clay . Almost ruined my shoulder . We also set up two sections of scaffolding to stand on using longer lengths of pipe . Got to 30 feet and all it would do is bounce , finally gave up and hired a excavator with a long arm . Solid clay down to 35 feet before we hit water . Two truck loads of washed stone 8 “?” Sections of concrete pipe 4 feet wide , backfill and have approximately 6,000 gallons of water . Needed two ditch pumps to run it dry .
I seen a guy down on the river that had a attachment for a jackhammer and drove the pipes in like 2 minutes or so while standing on the tailgate of his truck. He owns a concrete company.
You should have put a tire valve stem on top of the pipe and hooked a air compressor up to it and give er about 120 psi first before hooking up the pump.. it clears out the screen and opens up the water channels and cleans it up before sucking water out.
First of all one should use a mineral spirits soaked rag and run through your pipes to clean the oil and manufacturing residue out. Then wipe down outside. I suggest driving a 2" sand point, that gives you the option to drop a 1 1/4 pvc drop pipe from the pump with a check(foot) valve. Makes easy pipe checks and valve replacement. The 2" pipe comes up from ground to a 2” threaded Tee with a capped off/plugged side for access/test/shock, then from top of Tee is a short 2” nipple with a 2” PVC cap with hole drilled large enough for a male and female threaded 1 1/4" pvc threaded through it and sealed with plumbers putty. So the drop pipe goes up and glued male pipe fitting goes through 2” cap hole then female threaded fitting screws on tight to secure 1 1/4” through the 2” cap and suspends it. Then from the 1 1/4” female threaded fitting up is a short piece of pvc into a Tee. The pump inlet runs off to side to pump and from the top of that Tee is a short pipe and a male threaded fitting with a Cap to seal it off. That gives quick easy access to fill/prime drop pipe and pump, or could be used for a hand pump addition, or easy access for shocking the drop pipe checking water etc. The advantage you have with driving a 2” with a 1 ¼ drop pipe is if there is a leak in threads of 2” and it won't hold it's prime it's irrelevant. But it would be a problem with just a 1 1/4”. With the 2” driven, it's a casing for the 1 1/4” and leaks won't matter. As long as the pvc drop pipe is sealed. It helps to sand down the outer diameter of 1 1/4” couplers or threaded fittings so they slide into 2” easier with less chance of getting stuck. It shouldn't but it's easy to do. With a foot valve virtually the whole drop pipe stays filled with water so minimal priming is needed if inlet is opened for pump repairs etc. It's also a good idea to keep drop pipe off the bottom of sand point just in case sand enters the point. I described my idea to a plumber who had worked on sand points before and said that would have saved him a couple days of labor and unhappy customer on a job where they had driven a replacement 1 1/4” sand point in a basement and could never get the water drawn up. They tried everything and eventually gave up and walked away saying sorry to the customer and no pay for the job. Possibly there was a leak/damaged coupler that leaked and prevented pump priming/suction.
Where are you finding a 1 1/4 foot valve that will fit into a 2 inch pipe? Almost all that I have seen dont fit. Grainger has one that is 1.9 wide that is pretty much to snug
Tom Foster foot valve or check valve is so the pump don't loose prime. It's like when you squeeze a straw and take it out of the soda . That is the same thing the valve does . The foot or check valve don't let the water go back down so it will be ready for pump via switch on. It was that brass thing with the arrow he was saying goes up in the video. God Bless you and your well in the many days of use.
Thanks for explaining the steps on how to dig a sand point well. Planning on making one of these with a buddy this summer, I'll be referring back to your video. Nice work Larry, wanna put one in at Sturgeon Lake, Minnesota?
Some people check with their local colleges and find one that will test their water. They can tell you exactly what is in the water and how clean it is and if you need to boil it or filter it to drink it. Some colleges test it for free some charge $15 to $25. not much cost to know what is or is not in the water.🖖🤪👍
The county ag extension office can do the same thing, and for the record, they also do soil testing and hay, etc.... I agree, its a good price for peace of mind!
I hope mine goes that fast! I have really soft, loam type soil, cuts like butter, lol.... our house well is at about 20' - I have my fingers crossed....
Next time rent a jackhammer and make a bit that goes over the pounding cap. 5 ‘ goes down in a few minutes. You’ll have to buy the bit but homedepot rents a 90lb electric for about 100 bucks a day. Sure saves on the shoulders and hands.
No it doesn't. I own one and used it for my dad's sand well in Northern Wisconsin. You're better off water blasting a liner pipe in, then doing your water pipe within it.
@@TarzanArmani007 the problem with water blasting is once you hit water bearing sand your done. You can’t pump enough water through it to go down anymore. I even tried bentonite and couldn’t go any further than 27’. It’s all I can use but at that depth you never know what chemicals from your neighbor might get down that deep. The pro’s here drive it down to 100’ easily using a power hammer. In this case they are driving it down by hand. They aren’t using water. They could go deeper much easier than using their shoulder and man power with a jack hammer. My advice is specific to what they are doing. Most people never even think of a jack hammer.
Ok so I watched your video and went out and bought everything lol. Now I have questions lol, I live in south central IL I have a river about a 1/4 east of me and it heads north and circles back west. Here we go with the question lol, how do I know what my water tables is and where to drive my well pipe in?
I'm thinking about doing this myself and my question is I see alot of driving points being 80 grit, is this ok to use in very sandy soil or should I look for 60 grit?
I wonder if this will work in central Florida where it's very sandy and I was told the water table is 10-15 feet below surface. 0:52 Where did you guys get these parts? (like the sand plane) A big box store or plumbing place?
How do you know where to start digging? We just bought property that we thought had a well and it doesn’t so we start from the first point. Any help is appreciated!
Its better to have the check valve up near the top of the well because if its down by the sand point, only 4' would have water. The check valve would keep water from filling more of the pipe.
My water table is 4 feet. Many of the neighbors wells are only 25 feet deep and test good. I drove mine 40' cause it was going easy. My point is 25 feet of water sand and gravel is alot of filter.
I was wondering about the depth also. I got the impression he was close to 40', and didn't think a single pipe system could pull water up that column. Or so it's been said.
I'm a homeowner in Illinois and I have a shallow well. My question is is it possible to break the pipe on a point while pulling it out the ground in the winter while snow is on the ground.
IF i do this should I also use pipe tape on the drive couplers and the pipe thats underground? I couldnt see in the video if that was used or not. Thanks
Most county websites have data on average well depths in the area. It really comes down to soil makeup. If there is sand, you should be able to find shallow water formations under 25 feet.
I understand how to prime the pump,but do you have to fill up the pipe in the ground with water also before turning pump on or will the prime in the pump pull the water the rest of the way up the pipe in the ground?installing in the spring in Central Wisconsin where the water table is about 10-12 feet.Thanks for any info!!
could have built a tripod with a pully using a rope get your lawn tractor take the wheel off get two wheels the same size weld them together cut the center out of one with acetylene torch Bolt the wheels back on the mower one wheel stick out leave the mower jacked block up wheels take the rope and loop it one time around the wheel put the tractor in gear getting a chair and the glass iced tea pull on that rope driver will come up drop it I did that use that method in old pickup truck 40 years ago I drove Sandpoint down 75 ft pulling sand through that pump is hard on it you can make a cylinder with a little check valve in it use a drop it down in there in and out several times dump the water out of the cylinder I didn't do that on my jet pump it was a miracle I didn't screw the Vane up in it holy shit don't do it by hand use that method I just describe if you answer this post it will come to my email we can talk on the phone if you want to I just need your phone number that's all don't put your phone number on this Channel don't bust your ass driving down a Sandpoint point take a good hard bar of soap and scrub that into the Sand Point it will help keep the sand out of there you know the soap will dissolve. GOOD LUCK 😋
Marsh Sly lm not so sure about that. I'm pumping water 74 foot with a 3/4 HP jet pump on a bored well. I was a little surprised myself but it's worked very good for about 8 years now. I have had the same system on bored well around 50 feet deep before. but this was the first one that deep. in total it was 91 feet deep. with about 30 feet of water. foot valve about 10 foot off bottom of well. after a few years had to raise it due to settiment. anyway it pumping apx 70 feet. this is a 24 inch bored well.
Marsh Sly nope the pump sets on top of the well . the top of the water is about 50 foot down. . they call it a jet pump. the same pump everyone with a 24 inch bored well around here uses. the motor/pump , pressure switch , blatter tank. is all on top of the well. I like this style because you can work on them with out having to pull it out of the well. I could put a submersible pump in but they cost a lot more. and yes the water is about 50 foot down the casing. it's not a problem to pump it up. look , you don't have to take my word for it. the company that bored the well put the pump in and everything has been in the business for 50 years or longer. look them up and ask them about jet pump , how far they will pump up water. Tucker well boring and drilling. Hartwell , GEORGIA..
Marsh Sly I did have to replace the foot valve a few years ago. that's the only time you have to pull the pipes out of the well. I say pipes because there are two pipes on the foot valve. not just one pipe like I see in the pictures on u tube for the so called shallow well. when the well was first bored it was 93 feet. little over 30 feet of water. the foot valve was set 10 feet off of the bottom. so it was pumping a little over 80 feet. I wish you could come look down this hole and tell me it's only about 28 feet to water. normally around here with a bored well they will hit rock around 50 /60 feet. but they got mine down over 90 feet. went thru 3 veins of water. anyway ..
cody clark I have been using the well for 2 years so far. I have 12 feet of water in the pipe, so I don’t expect to dry up anytime soon. Seasonal water table will affect how much water I have in the pipe, but that’s why I drove it that deep to accommodate for seasonal fluctuations.
Sternberg Outdoors Hey another question for the sink to run through the pipe of your house like the sink the shower is that electrical pump outside always on
Sternberg Outdoors Like the pump sucking the water out of the well and that pump has the house pressurized with flowing water for you to turn on your sink is that pump outside always on
cody clark the pump is not always on. I run the cabin off of a generator. The pump only runs when when I call for water and the pressure tank empties. To run the water for any length of time, I need the generator on so the pump can kick on and off as needed. I am looking into a dc battery option for the pump in the future.
Hi. Gentlemen’s you have a the best system to make well 20/40 ‘ deep. I would like to ask you question: where I can buy the parts ? Thanks for shearing.
After driving the sand down as far as you can and there is no water then what? I would think it would be near impossible to get your sand point back and pipe.
IF you try to pull it back up shortly after pounding, wrapping a log chain around the pipe and using a hydraulic floor jack to pull up about 8" at a time will work... been there done that :)
Patrick Weyand You pull the plug on the check valve, which sends the water back into the well releasing the prime. Blow out the lines of the pump and pressure tank with an air compressor. Very simple.
