@@kristysampath ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-67itluk_2Vc.htmlsi=aNLWSMbD-Ijjt_jj This link is for a circular dress tutorial, however, the hemline was turned with a crinoline and a lining. You can finish the hemline with bias tape Or turn the hemline with just 1/4" to 3/8" at most, this will reduce the wobbling at the hemline, then iron out properly.
Thank you for this tutorial. I am in the process of making raglan sleeves for a jacket project and found your video. Firstly, I matched the shoulder slopes of front and back bodices (which meant raising the low shoulder point on the front bodice by a small amount). I started with the back bodice and completed it as instructed. Then I began working on the front. After drawing in my lines and angles and adding the length to the sleeve, I found that the front raglan sleeve seam was over an inch longer than the back raglan sleeve seam. So I erased all my lines and ended up drawing the same line as I did on the back piece . This meant erasing the deeper front armhole curve and replacing it with the same curve shape as the back armhole so that the raglan line could touch the armhole curve. Now the amounts for drawing the mirrored angles are now the same and thus my underarm seams on each side of the sleeves now match. I don't know if this is the correct way to go about it, but thought I would share it in case others came up against the same problem. Please correct me if I am giving out the wrong information.
It's best to match the front and back bodice along the shoulder seams before cutting to ensure they are equal. Sometimes they might not be equal, this is as a result of different body measurements
