Hi Josh: You probably already know about this, but I wanted to let you know that I've had success using mud/clay and wood to hone and strop. I used your stropping method on a wooden construction stake after sharpening by pulling my knife on the surface of a blob of mud in my hand (burr on one side, then the other). This stropping method left it shaving sharp. Thanks! :)
A man after my heart. I'm a huge fan of strops. I think most people put metal to stone far more often than needed. If you don't let it go to dull, a quick stropping will bring it right back to shave sharp in no time, and the less metal you remove, the longer the life of the knife.
The GB2 Puukko is awesome. It's one of my favorite knives now. The handle is very comfortable... in all... Simple design but very effective! Great for carving and it also makes fine feathers! I highly recommend it! Thanks GB
This is what I have been waiting for is how to care for a blade in the field. I know common sense is a big part but I respect your opinion on it as well. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
I recently read your technique in your book. It's nice to see it, too, because it seemed like it would take a long time, but that was pretty quick. I appreciate this take of honing not just as a finishing step of sharpening, but as a replacement most of the time. I've been loving your book. Thank you. :)
Enjoyed finally getting to meet you at the gathering. I have always been pretty good at measuring a persons skill set based on the knife they carry. You sir got an A Plus. A man tbat carries a no frills simple, well made, puuko knife with comfort (broom handle style) in mind knows what they are doing. They have actually used a knife ALOT. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. Great looking knife.
Hay man nice knife I was in Finland couple of years ago and bought 2 Pukkos from the Martini outlet shop bloody oath they are awesome one for every day knock about and a beaut for my survival/bug out bag also bought fero rod sharpening stone and other bits great shop and they sell online. Cheers for all you hard work great channel 👍🇦🇺Phil
"Works good....I'm gonna pick all that up..." LOL...great video, Sir...and will be ordering the Butz paddle strop and Tormex paste shortly....All the Best!
I remember my father's butcher knives in a hand made wooden tote box he used to carry to and from work. With these historic, effective and safe techniques (you demonstrate so elegantly) my father would wholeheartedly concur.
I'll have to invest in some of the things you show in both videos, I have the sawyer pull through knife sharpeners which I figured would do me find, but after watching your videos, i'll have to step up my game when it come to keeping my knives sharp, you need to post a no fly zone when doing your videos.
I was on a hiking trail a couple days ago and a guy, who I was convinced was the GBGB, was coming from the other direction. As he got closer I decided that he actually wasn't the GBGB but from the beard, and hat, he had me going.
Well... I have been toiling over which puuko style bushcraft knife to get, I land on this video and find out YOU make one!? HELL YEAH. So I go to your shop to buy it (insanely reasonable, it comes with a leather sheath!) and I think I ended up buying one of everything. Sigh. It’s the least I could do since you are sharing your knowledge with us all. THANK YOU. You’re a major bad ass!
Just opened the box...this knife is GORGEOUS. Is that word right for how well done this thing is?! It’s well oiled and was packaged extremely well. GOOD JOB GUYS! only thing left to do is go get lost in the woods.. thank you again for all your hard work.
Hey Josh, just a couple of observations from an old machinist...the scandi grind has good function and maintainability for sure, but the main drawback and the reason it tends to stick is the amount of surface area presented to the object being cut. a secondary bevel tends to diminish that surface area. I also prefer the carbon steel better than all these stainless alloys or the high end "gourmet" steel alloys.. It's cheaper and tough enough. With a small amount of maintenance it will serve for a life time.
This sound is very important as well as an amazing sound but it lets you know you're on the edge, once you learn how to strop you will always understand what a sharp blade is I have hatchets axes and machetes that you can shave with it is truly amazing what leather can do!
Greetings from Finland! I really enjoy all your vids, but this one was particularily interesting thanks to the puukko. Bit of trivia for you guys... "Puukko" is a Finnish word, and it´s the name for this particular style of egded tool. The word for puukko comes from our word for wood or "puu", and with the ending "-kko" it means "something to do with wood or to wood", etc. (I guess it comes as no surprise that puukko has also been used in a lot in fighting, and still today at least some killings involve this tool.) Puukko is a cultural institution and part of our heritage over here, and many people have almost like a religious attitude to the proper style of puukko, its proper manufacture, its use, maintenance etc. The attitude is that if you go to the woods, number one item to take with you is your puukko. I´m really happy to see that you appreciate this type of a knife. We Finns consider puukko to be puukko and nothing else. Other type of knives over here are called "veitsi", with the exception of "leuku" (see below). Puukko style knives are common all over Nordics, and also in Russia among Finno-Ugric peoples. (Note that Finland is not considered part of Scandinavia, but it is part of the Nordics.) Quite many Slavic Russians use the puukko as well, especially in the northern areas where Finno-Ugric folks have some cultural influence. Puukko is used among the Sámi as well. Among them it´s called "niibi" or "unna-niibas", meaning "knife" or "small-knife" (in Northern Sámi language). Up in Lapland we also have a very large puukko-style knife called "leuku" (which etymologically comes from the Finnish word "leuka", meaning "jaw"), which in Northern Sámi is called "stuorra niibas" or "big knife". While traditional puukko is superb for general purpose bushcraft and whittling etc., leuku is great for hacking small branches and thickets for your fire, quartering animal carcasses, breaking their bones with the spine part of the leuku blade, etc. Large leuku-style fighting knife among Finnish tribes is called "väkipuukko", meaning "strong puukko" or "power puukko". (Violence in Finnish is "väkivalta", meaning "power of force [over others]".)
Thank you for taking the time to share that information. It was well worth reading. Although I'm American, most of my heritage could be characterized as Anglo-Frisian. The scramasax knife seems less useful in the woods than a puukko. Better than nothing I suppose but a puukko looks more practical.
I have a sharpening system which I keep in my backpack, but don't have a strop yet, but plan on buying one before going camping. My knives are kept sharp and the ones I take with me especially.
Thanks. Very instructive video. I have noticed the Butz strop having some popularity, but it always seemed a bit large and heavy for a field honing tool, and I have made do with a simple piece of leather and a flat surface (my belt is suitable for stropping). Your video showed I underestimated the utility of the Butz, and might reconsider it for both home and at least some camping trips. A lot of features for a simple wooden paddle and some leather.
Great vid my friend! Im a big fan of scandi grind, have been for years. Hell, I even have 2 Mora knives in my kitchen..no deboning or filleting too tough!!lol
More good info!! Received my pathfinder nesting cup.set. very pleased. Just ordered the mora garberg. It will be here Thursday. Looking forward to taking these tools into the field.
stones are for first sharpening/or to repair damage; keep away from stones as much, as possible and just gently/regularly maintain your edge!...also like subtraction trick...great practical pieces of advice, pardon my english and many thanks from CZ!
Love the Butz strop. I’ve had mine for decades. I’ll also add that you should use a light touch. Going too heavy on the pressure can actually round over the edge a bit. That’s a hard one to learn because the instinct is to put some pressure on it to polish the steel. You don’t need too and it can actually hurt. The leather will compress very slightly with pressure and can roll up a bit on the trailing edge. Think of a wake behind a boat. Great vid.
Hilarious, I hope everyone who watches stays to the end! It's so much easier to KEEP a knife sharp than to make it sharp. I always took my own sharpening tools to the field, we were never issued anything. Mostly cut open MRE's with a pocket knife, used the bayonet as an ice pick on the occasions they brought ice out to us. I'll have to see about making a smaller version of that paddle, I like that. Another great video!
I watch your vids as well as corps corner and daves vids. Great job by all you guys! I found sharpening anything that form and technique is much more important than speed and repetition. I think a lot of people miss that fact. Also i use a smooth shapening steel. I find it really helps on VERY sharp knives. Your thoughts on sharpening steels?
I use one in the kitchen, mostly to take off the layer of fat when cutting meat. I don’t use them outside of the kitchen but that doesn’t mean they don’t work
Your in the Poconos didn't stop in to say hi I'm over by Scranton. Great looking blade Josh .great kit . My kit isn't as extensive but . Lol I use my fero rod try it it works great take care brother
As always I watch religiously. Learned a lot from you. Refreshing the strop by removing the old clay or compound is a necessity however. Imagine wet sanding a vehicles paint. We use water to lubricate the surface but its main function is to keep the sanding paper clean. Otherwise the paper clogs up and is not as effective and or gouges the paint. Food for thought sir. Have a great day. Hope that made sense.
I imagine it will be a necessity at some point, I just haven't found it necessary as of yet. I am not disagreeing with you, just saying that so far it has always polished up nicely (and I strop probably 3 times per week minimum).
@@GrayBeardedGreenBeret I think some people put too much clay or compound on it which causes the issue. I think that is why they have issues. I clean mine maybe once a year.
Literally just means matching the bevel of the knife to the surface of the strop. Whichever grind it is, it has a corresponding bevel that should be used as the guide
I'm a little lat to the dance Mr. Green Beret but that is a great looking tool you've designed. Informative as always thanks for all you do. Enjoy your weekend
Now THAT is a nice knife. The "no matter which direction i hold this in the grip is exactly the same" is great" great stuff. (is that an scotch eye auger in that roll sweet!) J
I had the same question. Didn't see an answer in the comments. Noticed the tag in the right corner of the roll in the video. Frost River Roll Up here --> www.frostriver.com/tool-roll/
Nice video. Nice calm voice, nice context. Well done. And I love the simplicity of your puukko. I will buy one. Availability? But : 10 - 10, 9 - 9, 8 - 8, 7 - 7, 6 - 6, 5 - 5, 4 - 4, 3 - 3, 2 - 2, and 1 - 1... Bof. Personally : I sharpen until it's sharp. Period.
Great information, thank you for teaching it the way you do. The comic relief at the end is the best, whistling “Swing Low Sweet Chariot” made me think of Chevy Chase in Fletch, haha, keep doing what you do!
your videos are always on point. i wish you success with the knife(selfishly wants a third or fourth generation in a full flat or saber grind). maybe the plane is the extraction plane you called some odd years ago. allegedly.
I’m guessing those two little freckles over the U have something to do with the way it’s pronounced. I actually wore one of those strops out- took about 25 years, though!
I enjoyed your video. There are a few questions I have: have you used the Green Aluminum Oxide bar compounds? If you have or if you know them, which do you feel does a better job....them or your paste? At whet point do you use the side without the compound? Or is that side just kept as a spare side? You showed the angle side for scandi grinds....do you think it or the flat side is a better option & why? Thanks
The Benchmade Puuko is on my wish list, and it gets good reviews. I would be curious about your opinion, if you have one. Thanks for all the great work.
Never had that problem. That old rag full of olive oil has been in there for over two years now. I actually gave it a sniff today since I had heard others talk about the oil going rancid. Still good to go
How do you suggest stropping large blades such as machetes or do you not take it to this extent? Of course a blade such as a machete where's that very quickly and it's a much deeper angle I'm just curious
I hold the longer blade still and run the paddle against it like the alternate technique I showed in this video. I usually use that technique for all my knives, knife stationary and move the strop
Hello, long time lurker first time commenting. Is there a reason you didn't add any kind of guard on the knife, in my opinion the safety you get would out weigh any loss in functionality( which I don't see, but am willing to hear about). Not trying to seem judgy, just actually curious.
Generally speaking, guards are for beginners and children. Or for knives that stabbing is an expected use. The puukko is primarily a carver, and is designed for people who are past that beginner phase and don’t need a guard any longer.
@@GrayBeardedGreenBeret are there any disadvantages of having one. In my head having that extra safety seems like a good idea, incase your knife gets wet or bloody, or if you are tired( we can all make knuckeheaded mistakes) Now you use your knives more than I probably ever will use mine so I'll defer to your opinion on the matter, just curious.
Carlos Kee there are certain cuts and skills that the guard gets in the way of, that’s all. They are a good idea for knives that are used primarily for gutting fish and game since bloody hands are slick, for normal belt knives, I have never found them necessary. Good technique and taking your time goes a long way.
@@GrayBeardedGreenBeret Thanks! Normally I use my knife for gutting and skinning, I have alot of Ultralight backpacking stuff, so normally not much need for woodcraft. So that's probably why it confused me. I appreciate you taking the time to explain it.
Good man picking up the paper. Another great video! Was wondering if you could offer up some insight on Carbon steel itself. I just got the Mora Bushcraft and it’s my first Carbon blade. I’m a pretty picky and anal guy about using tools so when i saw a video of some guy saying you need to be aware of cleaning carbon blades after using it for cutting certain acidic things to avoid bad rusting- I get overly cautious when cutting meats or apples and such. What kind of general care is a good idea? How often should I oil it for corrosive protection? Is it really that vulnerable of a steel and if so why do you prefer carbon steel still? Thanks again, Josh -Brandon
I wouldn't store it for any long period without oiling it or coating it with beeswax/fixing wax. I have never worried about the acidic foods or anything like that. Cutting apples, oranges, or the like and then using the knife for wood will likely be enough, but you could put a light coat of oil/wax on it as a preventative, it won't hurt it. As far as meats, I have actually purposely used it to cut meats because the fat coats the blade and protects it. Again, I wouldn't store it with animal fats on it for long periods because they can go rancid, but I use my knives so much they don't get a chance to rust.
I just bought the mora garberg carbon. Do you have a vid on maintaining those specifically? As in, do you just take the oil and apply to a towel and put a light coat on it or should I scrub it, leave a light coat on it or what? Thanks in advance. Love your vids and I’m going to try and make it to some classes with you guys.
I don’t do anything but leave a light coat of oil on it before storing it. When I’m using it daily I don’t do anything. The black coating is a very effective anti-corrosive, even on the coast in my experience
I ordered the GB2 puukko from pft mine has about a half inch space between the handle and where the cutting edge starts the one you have looks A continuous curve
The one I have is the one I made, its a liability thing when it comes to knives produced for the public, especially with a knife with no finger guard or ricasso
Was watching charcloth video .. I saw 75th Ranger battalion sign .. was you at ft benning ? I was there 1986 to 1988 and provided direct support for the rangers .. most of the time I was out with the 75th .. just wondering ,, you never know ..I may have been the transporter for your squad
Adam Lee nice, brother! We probably ran into each other at some point. I remember coming up to your area and playing OPFOR once during that time period. I was 10-96 for Ranger School, maybe we were there around the same time also?
@@GrayBeardedGreenBeret Honestly I do not remember, but let me think and clarify - I joined Army in June of 93, by December of 93 or very early 92 I had completed RIP and was at 2nd Bat. I was one of the lucky ones who got to go to Ranger School twice. The first time I was either the last class or the 2nd to last class to attend Desert Phase before they shut it down. My 2nd time I was in the class prior to the class where those guys got lost and perished from hypothermia in Florida Phase. So yeah pretty good chance. Over the years I have rarely came across others who went to Ranger School, even fewer that were actually in Battalion. Anyways, just discovered your channel, and really enjoying it. My life has taken me away from such activities regretfully, but I still dabble and like to lie to myself and think I still have what it takes.
Sir may I recommend mineral oil instead of olive oil. The reason I recommend mineral oil is because I kept olive oil in my emergency car kit for about a year and the heat got to it, needless to say it stunk to high heaven. Mineral oil is safe for processing food as well.
The olive oil in this kit has been in there for two years, that rag is at least a year old. Never had olive oil go rancid even in the NC heat. So far so good. If that changes I may take a look at mineral oil instead, it just hasn't been an issue for me
The Gray Bearded Green Beret Fair enough Sir. I could’ve had bad olive oil or I didn’t have it sealed properly. Either way I enjoy your videos and I appreciate your comments Sir.
