This was the best video on the subject of all I have seen! I've been fighting with the same issues for a couple years. Like many others, I thought the plastic latch handle was the only problem, But, in fact, there are three potential problems: 1) broken plastic handle, 2) worn cable ends (i.e. conduit ends), and 3) intermittent fault on the door lock mechanism, where you can't open the hatch even with a new handle & cable assy. You can buy a metal handle assy, so that'll never break again, but if you have an older Sequoia you need to change out that latch assy at the other end of the cable from the handle. Otherwise, you'll just keep having grief with it until one day you can't get the hatch open at all. This video was a great solution, thanks!
This video was the only think that kept my sanity and was able to help me get that lock actuator off. I couldn’t for the life of me figure out why that plastic piece wouldn’t pop of but it’s because of those two little screws you can’t see . Thank you
This was by far the best video for the situation where the flimsy plastic actuator lock/unlock arm has broken off inside the door and therefore you can't even unlock the door to work on the locking and latching mechanism. . Even with this video, I had to buy a finger ratchet set in order to unscrew the two screws holding the plastic enclosure in place (the finger ratchet worked like a charm), so I would recommend obtaining a low profile finger ratchet with phillips bits to unscrew those two rear-facing screws securing the plastic enclosure around the actuator assembly inside the rear door. I did it without loosening or moving the power window assembly, but I have to say it took me several hours and hundreds of failed attempts to unsnap the larger black wire harness connector from the enclosure to permit the enclosure to be fully removed. If you can find someone with very skinny arms who can maneuver more easily inside the rear door, or use an endoscope to position a screwdriver inside the door, it may save you hours of frustration trying to unhook the black wire harness assembly. This video completely saved me from utilizing the far more destructive sawzall method to cut through the latch anchor metal and remove the weatherproofing as well. My locking/latching assembly was severely rusted and corroded, which created the friction that eventually cracked off the plastic lock/unlock arm from the actuator assembly. I can't thank you enough, this video was a life and equipment saver!
Glad it worked out for you John. I went into this job blindly without knowing what to expect nor what needed to be fixed because I couldn't find any good videos on the subject. Took me a whole day to figure it out so I knew it would save some people time and money if I shared. Glad it was worth it.
@@rickyortiz2944 I believe my most significant delay was self-inflicted - I thought the removal of the plastic housing over the lock actuator/latch assembly (the two phillips screws) was necessary before loosening the three 10mm bolts holding the assembly to the bottom of the rear door, which was not the case. Going backwards a bit cost me several hours, but it was my own fault. If I had loosened the three bolts first, the whole process would have been much shorter.
My lift gate was stuck - would not open. Cable and lift gate handle were okay. The trick he describes to lift the plastic cover and expose the latch mechanism worked perfectly! This video saved me. Thanks
Sweet! Yours is the only video I could find to fix this issue! It’s all about getting those two little screws out. Total PITA, but better than breaking out the plastic cover.
Thanks for posting this. Saved me a bunch of time and money. Turned out my latch was just Rusty and stuck. Lubed it up and it's working great. By the way, the back window is an easy fix, too, most of the time. Just a spring-loaded piece to pull into place and screw tight. Easily accessible behind the interior hatch trim. Don't even have to remove any other parts. There are a few videos about it on RU-vid.
Thanks for shared, My problem is that the door is stuck, and won't open even if I pull the cable manually. Nice to know that I don't have to saw the hook. I will try your method tomorrow.
Thank you very much! I am stuck on getting that plastic housing off and didn't know about those two screws. I probably would have just ended up getting frustrated and breaking the housing off and bought a new one. This was a great video!
Hey I wanna say thank you for this video! I was so close to taking a saw to the latch but this saved me. Mine was not broken but was stuck most likely just wore over time. Anyway this saved me a lot of time and headache thanks again. Now only if I could figure out why the window won’t go down anymore. Both kinda cut out at the same time.
Did you try loosening those two 10mm (I believe) bolts on the window motor mechanism that are basically the brake or whatever of the rear window? Our window didn’t work for years and I thought that seemed like a sketchy fix but the window has been working for over a year now, so 🤷♂️ Oh I also disconnected most if not all of the connectors on that bigger black control module panel that you have to remove to gain access to the latch and whatnot, and then obviously reconnected them when I put it back together. I’m a firm believer that sometimes simple little disconnects/reconnects can sometimes jog little motor controllers or actuators loose or back to life.
thank you Rick, I watched many videos and yours really helped me, but I wish you had removed the cover to easily see the part you were talking about, I had to feel and grope all over the place till I found the piece you were taking about, and it opened, also do you you suggest the piece once installed back in will remain unlocked, I'm afraid mine is broken, ( the piece that unlocks it ) thank you for displaying your video.
Glad it helped. I'm really sorry I didn't take the time to show you the inside. I didn't realize how many people had the exact same problem. It was a last minute video but now I regret not doing a better job. But yea once you replace the actuator you should have no problem.
I finally unlocked it but it still won't open, after unlocking it and pulling the cable it still refuses to open, I am at a loss because this was the last video that went into enough detail and seemed to describe the problem I had
@@rickyortiz2944 sure am, I don't want to pull it too hard for fear of stretching it, I also manually pulled the lever bypassing the cable and still nothing
This worked perfectly, but took quite a while to accomplish. However, it does work and you don't have to damage anything in the process. A few suggestions to make this go faster: 1.) You don't need to take the rear window motor mechanism loose. If you do, the entire mechanism will want to fall into the bottom of the tailgate and actually get in your way. 2.) In your video, take the plastic housing off so that people can see the actuator. The rocker on the actuator is on the interior side of the mechanism, whereas the two little screws are facing the back of the truck. 3.) I couldn't get enough leverage with just a screw bit to remove the two little screws, but by attaching it to a short bit extension, I could get enough purchase to easily remove the screws. Also, I used a mirror to be able to clearing see what I was doing as I worked on the two screws.
Thanks for your feedback. It was kind of a last minute video just to give people an idea of how to avoid a more costly repair. You have good points there. Im sure they'll help other people as well.
I bought the new handle that is on ebay for less than $15. But my problem was the one described on this video. Look on the comments from @G-Dog for better way to handle the actuator, so you don't have to remove it. Now I have to buy a latch mechanism... Anyway, I will replace the handle as it's the plastic one and it could broken anytime... The new one is all metal.
Just wanna say thanks alot for this video! Without your help i probably would of gaved up trying to fix it. When i pushed the lever and pulled on the string, the string wouldnt pull all the way and i was confused. But then i just pulled on the string with force and the latch got released! So thanks alot for the help.
You're very welcome! I struggled several hours with this but once I figured it out I felt I should make a video to hopefully make it easier for others.
Im working on my 2004 Sequoia with a failed rear latch ,failed ~ about 5 opens after purchasing vehicle . I found 3 THREE latche tips inside the door shell IE this is the 4th repair required. 150K miles FU toyota the latch trigger part is worthless
@@rickyortiz2944 I got the screws out...and was trying to get it out...then the door popped open...so I really did not get the cover off till i pulled the whole unit out, because as you know the latch and actuator go in at a weird angle and you have to get it right...probably at some point I would have gotten it out, but once the door popped open I was able to remove the three bolts underneath anyway.
I was able to removed the two small self tapping screws on the black plastic cover, however, I am having one a hard time removing the entire plastic housing...is does anyone know what is the best way to remove the black plastic housing cover...I feel like if I force it out, I am end up breaking something...thanks for sharing, I know its an old video, hopefully someone will respond...thanks
@@rickyortiz2944 I got it out today, this content creator "Fix It Angel" showed a complete video on how to removed "ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gAHwW1YoAVM.html"
Ok the two bolts go In it,it pop's a way you know what I mean! Your tag light's were your handle at that Square assembly thang that's has the push slips
Because I believe you can figure that part out on your own. I already did enough in showing you how to fix it. Without this video you would be totally lost. At least now you're only partially lost.
you went through the trouble of posting a 9 minute video but couldn't be bothered to take the cover off and actually show the thing you are trying to demonstrate. cool.
Yup! It's not for beginners. I made this video for advanced watchers. Please don't watch my video if you have no prior experience at fixing things or aren't smart enough to figure it out.
This video wasn't designed for beginners. It was designed for people who have somewhat of an idea on how to fix things, who may simply need a tip or two which could save them time and money. Otherwise it would have been a really boring 30 minute video.
@@rickyortiz2944 he's right. A good tutorial would have showed the mechanism with the housing off. So instead of a boring 30-minute video it was a boring 9-minute video LOL
@@antiangelofmusic I wasn't intending on making a good tutorial. I have better things to do. Glad it has helped some people. The negative ones like you can't ever be satisfied. If you don't believe me ask your wife. Maybe if your self esteem was a little bit higher and your people skills a little bit better you wouldn't be bothered by something as insignificant as a shitty video on RU-vid.
@@rickyortiz2944 number one. I was just corroborating Eriks Story. Number two. My self-esteem is just fine and I'm Happily Divorced. Number three. at least your wife knows you can be repetitive doing something for 9 minutes. Number four. I've been working on cars for over 35 years and my skills are just fine. Number five. It would have taken you an extra 21 minutes to take those screws back out? Number 6. If you're talking about having better things to do, you would have had more time to do better things to do if you just had the cover off in the first place so you didn't have to repeat yourself numerous times about what you were trying to explain. I'm sure you'll do better next time.
Knock yourself out. You're gonna have to also damage the weather stripping and replace that too. And guess what, yes you'll open the trunk but unless you replace the actuator you again will not be able to reopen it after you go through all that and close it back up. You don't believe me? Go right ahead and you'll see for yourself.
@@rickyortiz2944 Not sure, I replaced both the latch and handle but it still won't open unless I pull on the cable. Maybe attach an electric actuator to the cable so it works electrically with a push button like the 4Runner.
Bro thanks for posting this!!! I wish I could've recorded me following your steps with my head light. Crazy, took a lot of elbow grease because my screws was a lil rusted and I was worried I was going to strip it. But anyways it worked. All the way from Hawaii "Mahalo nui loa!!!" "Thank you very much!!!" Aloha
