This is my second video on how to remove a stuck seat post. The first video was supposed to be the (How to easily remove a stuck seat post) but that turned into the worst stuck seat post I have ever seen. I hope this video helps you.
Thank you for the video. Very knowledgeable. I've already removed my seat and it's soaking in P.B. blaster. Next step is to let it soak. WD 40 was useless. I spayed P.B. blaster in the aluminum seat post tube and turned my Schwinn Sidewinder SR Suntour high ten upside down capping the top of the seat post so no oil passes onto my floor. Thanks again for your knowledge. It helped me. Have a wonderful Sunday.
@alloutbikes It sat 5 years in the garage. I went to adjust the seat the clamp was welded. I used channel locks to spread the clamp and used a hammer to remove it. I also used a screwdriver and hammer to split the down post so I could spry WD40 it wasn't worth even trying. I'm using your method. My Schwinn Sidewinder SR Suntour High Ten is aluminum, with Suntour front coils to absorb the rough terrains, Cranks are aluminum, and Kickstand is aluminum. The seat post is aluminum, and the brakes are aluminum. I purchased a New stock, Schwinn water bottle holder. It's off-road and mountain bike and she fast due to light weight. The Sidewinder came out in 1981 my Sidewinder is a 1985. I cannot find any helpful information on the bike other than low retail is 500 high retail is 1500. I will not part with it because I bought it from a married couple for 30.00 dollars.
Had the same problem with a Cannondale tandem rear post. Took out the bottom bracket and filled the seat tube with liquid wrench upside down. Took a week with a little twisting every night. Check out project farm for his tests of penitrating fluid on RU-vid. I couldn't get the pb to do anything on the aluminum frame and seat post. The liquid wrench did work.
PB is an obvious suggestion but man the Vice "trick" is brilliant! Talk about thinking outside the box! This is gonna be interesting, if all else fails, on a GT Talera Mountain bike. *Love* the Blammo & all the late 80's to mid 00's HAROs - That thing must weigh 55lbs lol I still have ALL my bikes but my 1st BMX Bike ever was a HARO - a 92 or 93 Group 1 RS4 (Yeah try finding anything about that. RS4 not RS3 or RS2 or...). It's like a 22 inch top tube & I don't think I'll be growing into it unless there's a medical procedure or a horrible accident. & LOL @ the C&C Comments.. Just think: in another universe, You have a little Jew who can barely write his name but makes a very small fortune off your technical expertise & labor by making RU-vid videos. *BUT* you get to play in his Dad's nice big backyard - so ooHooYeahhh! looooool
Got the seatpost out of my 2015 On One Inbred. Had it soaked for a couple of weeks before, from the 'inside', bike sitting upside-down and bottom bracket removed.
i have a redline proline pro XL 2022 it came with 44t /16 but i was thinking changing it to 48t/16 for long ride going with the traffic and racing to i am 49yr old
It doesn't mater. It's a round tube stuck in another round tube. It's the most common shape in the bike industry. If your talking about the seatpost clamp it doesn't affect the removal of the post. It was also the only stuck seatpost in my store. If I missed the mark please clarify. I do want to answer any questions you have.👍
If it moves a little bit. Add some penetrating oil and keep working it out. Once out clean the post with steel wool.(only the lower section). And be sure to clean out the seat tube(in the frame). After you do all of that grease the inside of the seat tube and grease the seatpost(lower part) insert the post and you should be good. Goodluck 👍
What I do is I take the bike crank off then I turn the bike up side down and inside where the crank goes there's a hole inside I make sure the post hole is covered first then I poor vinegar from the crank hole and then I poor bake soda powder and I'll let it seat for a day that will take rust from the inside frame then turn bike up again and poor some lubricant oil and start pulling post out with force it work everytime for me
I have used vinegar with some success. What I found is if you don't rinse it out really good and then use penetrating oil immediately afterwards it starts to rust immediately. I have never tried using baking soda with it.
Not exactly super easy as you claim.After the frame turns,you can put the bike down and use a long seat post across the hole,you bolted back and applying wd40 turn the post out of the frame because as you know the rust inside eats up a lot of oil as you turn the post back and forth .and when the post is out the post looks almost like you never put any oil inside.
