How to eco-print a tee shirt - full details 

Thanks for your feedback Lydia. I'm glad you enjoyed it. I find it an amazing process too. :)

art room Thank you for your feedback and I'm glad you liked tbe video. I am editing a couple of other tutorials - another on making felt (wet felt), also showing how to lay out the wool for a design, and another on eco-printing a piece of felt. If you are interested please subscribe for notification. Thanks!

Hi Colleen, thanks for your feedback. I love the sound of your silk scarves and "happening" is a great name. I used to live on the sunshine coast, but have now retired and live on a yacht-home "A B Sea", currently in the Mediterranean. But my husband and I are planning on coming home one day ... All the best with your happening scarves.

Yes I was really happy with it

I'm so glad you found it helpful! 🤗

Thank you Missy Craft :)

Aannsha Jones thank you for the info. This is very helpful :)

Thank you and I'm so glad you've found this helpful. All the best with your own dyeing and printing. 🙂

You are so welcome!

Thank you! You help me very much with this video.

rosilene carmo thank you and glad you liked it :)

Thanks for your comments Yasemen, I'm glad you love my video! I'd be interested to hear how you get on with new collected leaves. Yes, I love eco-printing too and am editing another video this weekend - this time on felt, so I am not pre-mordanting with alum. I also tried an experiment by boiling it in a regular dye, rather than onion skins, as I wanted a nice blue colour. I hope you enjoy the video, it should be uploaded by the end of the weekend. :)

Aannsha Jones I will waiting your cotton and silk ecoprint tutorials :) . I 've never tried felt eco-print. I will watch your felt videos but I'm interesting cotton and silk fabrics. By the way if you on instagram you will check my eco-prints in my instagram page yasemensoysal I share my ecoprints. I will glad to if you see my works. :)

So glad you liked it Lydia, thanks for letting me know. :)

Really very helpful!

Thanks Colleen. :)

Yes, it will work on thicker fabrics :)

@@AannshaJones thankyou! 😊

Chelsey Kilgore that's exciting!To get more orange just try steaming for longer. I have also noticed that different eucalypts from my garden give up different amounts/shades of colour. What results did you get from the cochineal? ... strong red?

На русском было бы круче.

Thanks

If you're getting very dark prints, use less iron/iron water as it sounds like the solution is too strong. Don't put any iron into the bath. Blurry, crinkled prints ... it could be a few reasons. Bundling can be tricky so take your time and roll it carefully ensuring that with each roll you have everything as smooth as possible and as tight to the stick as possible. Tie it tightly to ensure all the plant material is firmly touching the cloth. See how that goes.

bls924 So glad you like the video thank you. I think the best thing is for you to experiment and keep a detailed journal as there are so many variables and outcomes. There is a 'theory' that having the mordant in the pot rather than on the material may make it less efficient. Again I'd suggest experimenting. I'd love to hear of your results. And if anyone has any thoughts/experiences about this please feel free to comment ☺

So glad you liked it. Thank you for letting me know. 😊

Hi endang pujia, I have put the solution in the section just under the video and above these commets. :)

Yes, you can dye it beforehand. It may be worth doing both and see what different effects you get. Some artists use alum, as well I believe in America, people who can a lot of their own vegetables. If you have a friend who does either, you may be able to buy some of theirs. You can do a simple search on google, or perhaps on Amazon for alum and have it mailed to you, here's a search result for "aluminium potassium sulfate" (alum): www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Darts-crafts&field-keywords=aluminium+potassium+sulfate&rh=n%3A2617941011%2Ck%3Aaluminium+potassium+sulfate I personally would much rather use Alum instead of copper or other mordants as it is far safer. (If you can use it in canning food, it must be safe)! Or, try googling "mordants and fixatives" and you will get many results, which give quite a few alternative solutions. One page in the google results was www.georgeweil.com/fact_file/mordants.aspx which gives a good understanding of different mordants that can be used for either silk/wool (protein) fibres and cotton/linen (cellulose) fibres. Other alternatives include high tannin substances such as pomegranate, which can be used as a dye in itself.

Thanks for subbing!

Muchas gracias!

I am glad you have found it useful.

Hi andrea schuh, I can hear your excitement! It's great to hear your results thanks so much for sharing. Sometimes eucalyptus leaves will impart different dyes one after another if you boil them long enough. I'd recommend India Flint's book if you want more information that. But a sure way for that orange is to source Silver Dollar eucalyptus leaves. They are the roundish leaves many florists use. Good luck, happy eco dyeing and I'd love to hear your next results!

Thank you so much 😀

Thank you! I haven't heard of coral being used to eco print. You could use it to sun-dye your fabric with the coral casting its shape onto the fabric. This link will explain what I'm trying to say!! www.sheknows.com/living/articles/965403/how-to-sun-dye-fabric/

Thank you so much.

Christmas presents are a great idea! I found that dipping in iron solution gives you black. So omit that and just dip them in vinegar/water solution.

ممنون حسن

Glad you liked it!

Mary Raab you could try that, although I'm not sure if it would be sufficient ... the bundles need boiling or steaming for at least an hour or two depending on the plant material used. I'd be interested to know what result you get. 🙂

Thanks! I don't have my journal with me at the moment (it's stored in Australia while I'm retired on a boat in the Mediterranean). But here's a link that you may find helpful for the mordanting process. :) www.wildcolours.co.uk/html/alum-tannin.html

Shrestha Halder I also have this question. Did you decide what to do?

Thank you! Glad you like it. 😀

Atelie Trion Thanks! I wash mine in the washing machine with other clothes and the colours held for a long time. You may find washing in a pH neutral soap keeps the colour for longer. But my tees hold the colour for ages. ONE strong recommendation is that you do not wash the tee shirt for at least a week after you eco-print it. That way the colour has a chance to really bind to the material. I usually let it dry then iron it.

Thank you so much. :)

Gracias. Usé (1) vinagre y agua (50/50) - para remojar las hojas (2) Agua de hierro (hecha de clavos oxidados en agua): para sumergir las hojas, ayuda a unir las impresiones (3) Alumbre y bicarbonato de sodio en agua - a la camisa pre-mordiente. El alumbre también puede iluminar los colores.

Gracias!

endang pujia So glad it is helpful for you and lovely to meet you too. ☺

Solo usé agua para vaporizar la camiseta. El agua está coloreada porque he usado la sartén para teñir antes y el agua ha tomado el color de la sartén. Espero haber respondido a su pregunta.

@@AannshaJones Woww, jamas pensé respondería a mi duda, la técnica se me hace muy bonita. le pregunte a una conocida pero no me dijo bien como hacerlo y los girasoles silvestres que puse en mi tela para nada se marcaron, solo plastas de color ella me dijo que pusiera en agua caliente con vinagre y sal la tela y que así húmeda pusiera las flores y terminara el proceso, yo me imaginaba que las flores y hojas llevaban proceso también antes de ponerla a la tela. Intentare hacerla así como usted lo indica y espero tener resultados favorables, ya le estaré informando. usted no da clases en linea, así que le pague o no venderá algún libro para leer?? Muchas gracias.

I'm glad you found it helpful Darti

One more, Why there are no water with cloth?

Hi Claudia J. I have checked the subtitles, as I make sure they are edited before I publish. If you click on your subtitles choice, make sure you choose the English subtitles, rather than the auto-translate ones. Plants - scroll down the information page under the video and all the details are written down there. Natural dyes do not last as long as synthetic dyes - 'mellowing' with age, and some will even fade in sunlight, depending on their light-fastness. I If you can use a pH neutral or gentle soap powder, that is a good option. I use a laundry liquid for sensitive skin which seems gentler. Some people also suggest using either salt in the wash, or vinegar in the rinse cycle (or both). You can also use a cool wash cycle. I personally don't worry about fading. Living in Queensland, Australia, I wear my tee shirts in harsh sunlight (can't avoid that!) and am fairly lazy, so wash my eco-printed tees with the normal wash. I do have tee shirts that I printed a couple of years ago that I have only just re-printed. But that's the best part about eco-printing - you can simply eco-print the clothes again!

I completely soaked the cloth by spraying it with the vinegar/water spray. :)

Hi Jorgelina, I'd suggest that you get some swatches of old tee shirt and see how well the dyes you are using fix to the material. You can also purchase alum on line. The form of alum most often used to mordant fibre is Aluminium potassium sulphate (or potash alum). I have recently read that aloe vera is a good substitute, although I haven't tried it myself. You could also do some test swatches using that. Write all details and results in a journal so you can repeat the results you like.

Thanks!

I haven't experimented a lot with petals. I would suggest strong/dark colours. Some also say freezing petals helps. Have you read India Flint's book?

@@AannshaJones Oh! No I haven't, but I will look it up. Thank you!

Thanks Patricia. I've always followed Jenny Dean's recommendation to use 8 percent of mordant crystals to fibre. So if you are going to mordant a fabric that weighs, say, 200g (as an example), you will need to use 16g of alum dissolved in 160ml of boiling water that you add to your mordant pot. You can also add cream of tartar to the mix to assist - check in Jenny Dean's book Wild Color, which is a great guide book. I hope that helps. :)

@@AannshaJones Thanks Aannsha thats great and yes really helpful. All the best, Patricia

Cool. Glad to help :)

I don't have the patience to wait until the bundle is dry, so I unfold it as soon as it cools down enough to touch. Other people recommend waiting until it is completely cold.

Natural dyes do not last as long as chemical dyes that you buy in shops, but to ensure they last as long as possible, I'd suggest: 1. Hang out to dry once you take the leaves off and let the natural dye dry into the fabric. Dry in the shade. 2. Iron the fabric 3. Leave the fabric for at least a week before washing in a gentle soap 4. Once washed, treat as normal, but use a gentle washing detergent. 5. Dry in the shade if possible. Having said that, I am lazy and always just used to put my tee shirts into a regular washing load with other clothes at stage 4. And hung them out with the other washing. The prints lasted up to two years. 6. When the prints eventually get too faded, just re-print with more leaves! I hope that helps. ;) Happy eco-printing!

¡Hola! He agregado subtítulos en español a este video para ti.

Hi Linda, thanks. First of all Washing soda, aka sodium carbonate (or soda ash) is not the same as the Alum mordant. Alum mordant can be either aluminium potassium sulfate (potash alum) or Aluminiumm acetate. I've only ever used aluminium potassium sulfate (which I call alum). I've always followed Jenny Dean's recommendation to use 8 percent of mordant crystals to fibre. So if you are going to mordant a fabric that weighs, say, 200g (as an example), you will need to use 16g of alum dissolved in 160ml of boiling water that you add to your mordant pot. You can also add cream of tartar to the mix to assist - check in Jenny Dean's book Wild Color, which is a great guide book. I hope that helps. :)

Thank you, you had it in a spray bottle, what is the recipe for your mix? ie; how much water /washing soda/alum to add ? Great video!

@@lindabrownartist just use the proportions I have give you 😉

I’m confused, when you spray the clothing, you tell us that you spray with. an old solution of alum, soda ash and water, but you don’t actually give a recipe. You also didn’t mention adding anything to the pot of water. I have printed on silk and paper successfully but have yet to try cotton so I just want to get the recipe right 🥼 I know cotton is very different and harder to achieve prints. Your video is really good, but adding the quantities would be helpful 🙏

Sorry about that, I misunderstood what you were asking. I made up the spray with the quantities I explained above - enough to fill a spray bottle (depending on the size of your spray bottle: 8g alum to 100ml water ratio). I also added a teaspoon of washing soda to this solution. Washing soda is a suitable assistant to the Alum and is good to use on all fibres. Because I'd already eco-printed this tee shirt and it had been through many laundry washes, I figured it was already well 'pre-mordanted' hence using the spray bottle. I hope that helps clarify things. 🙂

Thank you Mafe! Basically, I'd suggest you experiment with all of those different options: With the boiling - you can do either, see which results you prefer. Same with the rusty nails. Leave them in for 30 minutes. Another batch, leave them in for the whole time. Try adding a dye too. I have made a video of ecoprinting a piece of felt and dyeing it with a blue dye. Take a look at that one. It will give you an idea of how that might work for you. Keep a journal of all of your results so you can repeat what you like. I hope that helps. :)

@@AannshaJones Thank you very much for answering Aannsha and for the suggestions!

@@mafeecheverri8077 I'm glad I could give you some food for thought Mafe. :)

Hi Sheela Jena, thank you for your feedback! I just put the leaves into the vinegar-water just before using. Then I spray the fabric/garment before I place the leaves. If you're using eucalyptus leaves you'll need to steam/boil for at least 1.5-2 hours as it takes a while before they give up their dye. Other leaves/ flowers won't need as long. I suggest you do little experiments and write the results in a book, so you can repeat (although it'll never be an exact replica) your results. Hope that helps.

Aannsha Jones I ´ve heard from an eco print dyer she soaks the leaves a full night before using them. Does the vinegar water solution need to be heated before soaking the leaves? Is if usefull to press the leaves and material togheter with a rolling spin or a glass bottle to extract the sap and inbetter the proccess. What workes the best cellulosic fibers like cotton or linen or proteinic ones like wool or silk? Many many thanks for this video👍🏻😘👍🏻

Thank you

Because new cotton is sometimes factory coated with starch, it is best to pre-scrub it to allow the natural dyes to take a good hold. One way is to boil/simmer your new tee shirt in a solution of water and washing soda (soda ash). When it is cool enough, give it a good scrub (wear rubber gloves). Then rinse it all out in fresh water. You can print on the tee shirt now. Or you can pre-mordant by dipping/drying x 5 or 6 times in soya milk. This provides protein in the material that helps the dyes to grab onto the fabric. Hope that helps.

Aannsha Jones thank you, just supermarket soya milk?

No worries @@lindabrownartist! Yes, supermarket soya milk. :)

Aannsha Jones I’d imagine a smelly t shirt!

@@lindabrownartist Lol, that's why I don't premordant but use older tees

Thank you for your feedback - yes, I will definitely do that over the next few days. :) I will be adding more videos on eco-printing and wet-felting, so please subscribe (and click the bell) if you would like to be notified of them when they come out. :)

Gracias, estaré atenta, ya me suscribí

Thanks! I let it dry in the shade first to help the colour impregnate. Then I wash it.

Alivre Lima Hi, yes you could. And if you add onion skins or other plant material, you will also get colour imparted that way too.

For how long?

1 hour, then check the colour and if not strong enough bundle up again and keep simmering (about 80*C)

Thanks!

Thanks!

Hi Inge thank you for your lovely message. I haven't had that happen with dyeing not taking but I do know what you mean with the coating as I have used that type of deodorant more recently. Here is a link you may find helpful. I would try using the vinegar solution first myself (I already have that at home). Do let me know what works for you. ☺ www.nivea.com.au/advice/skin

stuegor Yes, I have used roses. leaves worked well but I only had pink flowers and would like to rey red ones. Some plants give amazingly strong colours. Others can be disappointing. It is worth researching and also note taking (as I mentioned). Mordants, and different processes can achieve varying results. I'm glad you found it interesting.

Patrice thank you for your tip! And if you can't get your hands on an iron pot, throw a few rusty nails or other rusty iron into the pot! Experimenting will give different results. Thanks for your comment Patrice

Thank you Gwen!

I'm glad you've found a new way of printing. :)

Hi Cecilia, pick off the plant material when it's cold enough to handle. The following steps are a suggestion to help retain strong eco prints: Hang the t-shirt up to air dry in the shade. When it's dry iron it to 'set' the colours better. (Then leave it for a week - this step is optional). Gently hand wash in luke warm water and a little mild detergent to remove chemicals and any plant residue. Dry in the shade, iron and wear! 😀

@@AannshaJones thank you 😊

Hola! Lavé la camiseta con alumbre y soda de lavado en agua, hasta la camiseta pre-mordiente. El alumbre también puede iluminar los colores

Diana I'm so sorry but I have no idea - I used the ones growing in my garden. What I can tell you is that I didn't get any decent results until I boiled/steamed them for at least 2 hours. How long are you 'cooking' your bundles?

Hi Aannsha, thanks so much for answering me. I am only steaming or boiling for 45 - 60 mins. I think leaving the bundle outside for at least 4 days improves the outline of the plant material, but I still haven't gotten a red/orange colour from my gum leaves. I will try the 2 hrs. To tell you the truth Aannsha, I am looking for the cheapest way to do it, as our power prices have risen so much recently it is really worrying.@@AannshaJones

@@dianaliddelow2064 I can understand the need to cut costs. I know it.is possible to leave the bumdles.soaking in glass jars in the sun but I didn't have the patience! I think you'll be pleasantly surprised with tje results if you boil for 2 hours. As long as you bring it to a boil you can reduce the heat so it is just simmering.

Thank you Aannsha......I really love the dark purple black colour you got. Is that because you use alum as a mordant as well as the vinegar?@@AannshaJones

@@dianaliddelow2064that would be the iron water which darkens colours and the bottle brush flowers

Yes, any household or cooking vinegar

Hi Teja, thank you for your feedback! I haven't tried this method on anything but pure cotton, silk or wool, I'm sorry. Why don't you give it a go anyway as it's mostly made up of cotton.

@@AannshaJones thanks I will try. It was quite difficult to get alum here but can't wait to try now!

Hi there, I’ve tried it and it successfully came out, however I’ve experimented a lot and the best results are preparing your fabric first and it can be a bit of a long process but so worth it once you get great bundle results. Scour 1 - 2 hrs in washing soda to remove any build up, waxed dirt etc. Then rinse, squeeze dry and pre-soak in soy milk (I tend to make my own vat of fresh soy milk because it gets expensive if you have to keep buying store bought + it’s not eco friendly buying packaged all the time). I usually soak in soy milk for about 1-2 days than without rinsing I drip dry until bone dry. This step is important especially for fibers like cotton or viscose, rayon or even linen as these fibers lack the protein that silk, wool, leather etc. by pre-soaking in soy milk and drying fabric it helps the fabric fibers absorb plant dyes or plant materials way better - it really makes a big difference ALSO on that note I found that multiple soaking in soy milk and drying out works best. Meaning repeating the soy milk preparation a few times yields a more stronger print. After you’ve dried your prepped cotton t shirt than I normally spray the t shirt with alum water I’ve pre mixed in an old spray nozzle bottle (mixing alum powder and water according to weight). Also ensure you Pre soak your plant material in either alum + water (20% alum 80% water - filtered water or rain water gives amazing results as tap water has a lot of chemicals used to clean water that can interfere with dyeing - believe me!) or water + vinegar (50% vinegar 50% water). The only other mordant that is sure fire is Iron water basically rust water. You can make rust water by just soaking bits of old tin lids or nails in water over time but this takes too long soooo just mix of steel scrubbers and nails or tin lids etc with hydrogen peroxide, salt and vinegar- it will rust any object in minutes. Keep this iron water or iron solution in a plastic container or glass but not metal. You can dilute this water to about 50-60% and it will still be effective. Use either the alum water or iron water to pre soak plant materials (up to 3 days or so can go longer depending on plant). And also in your spritzer bottle to pre spritz your fabric. Side note choosing the plants with the highest tannins will give the best prints too - all eucalyptus + their gumnuts, Japanese maple, Tibouchina Grandulosa leaves and buds - flowers can also be used but best for alum mordant if using flowers - the leaves and buds are best etc maybe find out your local native plants in your area. I’m fortunate to live in Australia - where eucalyptus is native tree and we have so many different spiecies. Once ALL the above is done you can lay your plant material down spritz your t shirt and lay out your design. Another side note like she did in video you can use plastic bag as the resist and it will keep your work from cross transferring and your eco print neater (if you want that kind of look). However you may like the wild, organic look of that? Steam for 1-2 hrs and I always turn my bundles as their steaming a few times. Another important piece of advice is to once your bundles have been steamed for a while, is to leave them bundled and wrapped for as long as you can stand it (few days or week) keep inside a plastic bag in cool area. Then unwrap. Let it dry slightly and then rinse in 20% baking soda + water (if you’ve used iron or copper mordant only). After all that - it’s done. This long version I’ve found through trial and much error gets best results. I hope that helps. I apologise for long winded essay response and not trying to upstage Anshasha - respect! I’m just a passionate and obsessed fellow Dyer whose had more failures than successes BUT learnt from all my failures. Just wanted to answer your question as thoroughly as I can. I have tried this above recipe on poly-cotton mixes and and it’s given great results. Eco dyeing and using natural plant dyes can have a lot of disheartening experiences especially if your new but it’s all worth it when you unbundle your first successful bundle(s). Once you hit success you just keep wanting to explore this medium more and more. Unfortunately not enough books or resources in terms of info on the subject and it tends to be the same kind of basic info repeated so it’s a fairly elusive art/craft. Anyway happy eco dyeing again sorry for long comment.

Also so sorry but one last thing to mention: iron water or iron mordant will darken your eco print. Gives strong print results with great staying power The print color is dark or black. However using an “Iron blanket” can make more color prints of the plant material - it creates beautiful outlines. (Just google “iron blanket - eco dyeing” because if u have to explain that here I will have to write another essay). Lastly for brighter colours I always stick to Alum as my mordant. To be honest besides copper - I prefer only alum and iron as my go-to mordants. Chrome is not safe and to be honest I’ve not yet used or probably never will. tin should only be used in small amounts - I recommend mix with another mordants. Copper is wonderful however can turn a lot of dyes green-ish hue (if that’s what your after than great!). Anyway, good luck on your dyers journey, I find that eco dyeing is more about trial and error and experiments because of the lack of info or resources out there.

كنت الخل والماء (50:50) لنقع الأوراق والمياه الحديدية (مصنوعة من مسامير صدئة غارقة في الماء) لتراجع الأوراق قبل وضعها على قميص الإنطلاق.

You can use it as a pre-mordant before you eco print the material and/or you can use it in the dye bath as it improves colour fastness (washing and light). Mix with a little cream of tartar - but don't use too much as it can make fabricks sticky. I'd suggest reading Jenny Dean's books on dyeing, such as Wild Color for more in depth information.

You can actually just dip them in.

I used alum and washing soda in water - as a pre-mordant for the shirt. Alum can also brighten colours

I don't have my journal with me at the moment (it's stored in Australia while I'm retired on a boat in the Mediterranean). But here's a link that you may find helpful for the mordanting process. :) www.wildcolours.co.uk/html/alum-tannin.html

I soaked the leaves first in vinegar and water (50:50) although you don't have to do this. Then I dipped the leaves into iron water (that I made from rusty nails soaked in water) just before I put them on the tee shirt.

Hi, I've put a list of materials in the description below the video. You can copy and past that into google translate. I hope that helps. 😀

Merlyn Luzon I made the iron solution by soaking rusty nails in a mix of water and vinegar.

How long did you soak the nails?

Don't use an iron mordant as that darkens colours. Use a mordant that brightens ☺

I'm sorry , I'm a novice at this...I don't know what a mordant is :(

Hi Alan, a mordant is a substance that helps the dye fix to the material. Some mordants include iron (rust water/ferrous), aluminium and copper. Some mordants work better with animal fibres (wool) while others work better with plant fibres (cotton). Some of these work better with an assistant (such as tannin). These can all make a difference to the shade or even colour of plant dye that you're using. This is quite a complex thing to try and explain here, so I'd suggest you try and source the book Wild Color by Jenny Dean (or similar books) that will explain the process and which mordants will be more likely to give you the outcome you're looking for. :)

Thankyou Aannsha! Can you give me an example of a mordant that would brighten colors?

Hi Alan, I would personally use Alum (aluminium potassium sulfate) as it generally gives bright colours with most dyes, it is easy to purchase on line and generally safer than, say, copper (however I'd check with your local authorities for safe disposal advice). But this is a complex subject Alan and I would suggest you research books, and also do colour tests yourself on samples of material, with different dyes, and keep a journal of your results so you can repeat the results you like. Hope that helps. :)

If you are using eucalyptus leaves, you have to simmer it for that length of time to help release the dyes from the leaves. Other, softer plant material may not need as long. I encourage you to experiment and keep a journal of your results.

How long did I steam it for? I steamed it for 2 hours. Lo herví durante 2 horas

2 horas

Que componente tiene para que se afirme el color al final del proceso

A lot depends on how often you wash it, how light fast the different eco dyes are. Mine lasted a long time.

Two I like are: Wild Colour by Jenny Dean. Or the Eco Colour book by India Flint.

It does fade with time. Some plant dyes last longer than others.

Aannsha Jones thank you so much :)

Empapé las hojas en vinagre y agua (mezcla 50:50). Mojé las hojas en agua con hierro (hecha de clavos oxidados en agua) antes de colocarla sobre la tela.

@@AannshaJones muchas gracias por contestar Aannsha Jones , muchas gracias 🙏🙏🙏

@@mariacordoba1332 Eres muy bienvenida! 😊

Ok, você pode obter as legendas em seu idioma. Aqui estão as instruções: Para escolher um idioma de legenda diferente: No canto inferior direito, clique em Configurações Clique em Legendas / CC Selecione um idioma. Se o idioma não estiver listado quando você clicar em Legendas / CC: Clique em Traduzir automaticamente. Selecione um idioma. Eledir, espero que ajude. :)

Not as permanent as synthetic dyes. Some will last longer than others. Some fade quickly in light. If you do a google search for "list of natural dyes lightfast" you'll get lots of useful information.

Maribel Longueira Hi Maribel, when you say second solution, do you mean the one I soaked the leaves in? If so that was 50% vinegar and 50% water. The brown liquid that I dipped the leaves in was Iron (ferrous) water. That was made by soaking rusty nails in water with a little vinegar. You can make up a solution using Ferrous Sulphate dissolved in water. I hope that helps.

hi, AAnnsha, thank you very much. El agua donde coció la camiseta no lleva ningún mordiente?

Yes, that solution was an old one that I had made up from before - so I don't have the exact measurements. It was washing soda and alum (potassium aluminum sulfate) dissolved in water.

Muchísimas gracias, eres muy amable, las medidas más o menos las se, si tiene alúmina y bicarbonato de sodio.

😃

No. ... Have you watched the video yet Meghla? ;)

Yes i watch your all video, but i can not catch it

The ingredients are in the video description. :)

I've added that info in the information section for this video :)

It doesn't have to be, but it is already 'pre-treated' by lots of laundry washing. Sorry this is a late reply Jerry, but I've only just come across your comment.