Correction For Mac users: at 15:10 when controlling brush size and hardness, use LEFT Click, not RIGHT click. Thus, the combination for a Mac is CMD+OPT+"LEFT Click"+Drag My apologies for the confusion ☺
Great tips, as usually! I would really love to see a deeper dive into "Getting it right in camera" as you pointed it out here. I think that is what a lot of us photographers still need to improve on before it gets to high-end editing techniques.
An even quicker method in your shift+click example is the quick select tool. With the Sensei/AI select improvements over the years it has gotten so much better and would have had all those windows selected in just a few clicks.
No, that won't be quicker and I don't recommend using the quick selection tool as you mentioned. The quick selection tool will inevitably include in its selection edges that vary by brightness, thus creating often a jagged cut, and, quite often areas outside of the selection. The quick selection tool can't be used reliably for the example like I showed, but the technique I used on those window frames will work every time, without fail.
I'm not sure what you mean. There is no distance restriction to flash, and I don't recall saying anything about a 6' limit. Can you tell me the timestamp in the video when I said that?
Hello Nathan, that was an awesome video. Something I really needed. I’d love to learn more tips and tricks from somebody who knows the program inside and out like you do. One question is when I use the lasso tool to outline a window in Photoshop and then try to lasso another area. The first one disappears, how do you prevent that? By the way, I’ve learned many useful tips from your full course videos, thanks.
Hi Nathan why does the result of the in camera HDR image feature ( 3 different exposure shots processed in camera) on Canon R5 look so weak and poor.If the feature exists and it's proceed in camera why do camera manufacturers not provide a high end result that would be huge in achieving good fast results.
Traditional HDR, like that used in-camera or by traditional HDR blending software, adjusts the entire tonal range into an even exposure, pixel by pixel, thus washing out the image with no control over the result. Instead, HDR nowadays is done with luminosity masks like I showed in this video, which provides a much higher quality result. I also delve much deeper into the high-end HDR technique with luminosity masking in my course on Expert Editing, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: ExpertEditing.NathanCool.com
Something I showed in this video was the repair layer, which can help a lot. Otherwise, you could be doing something incorrectly. Not sure if you have my interiors course but it teaches techniques like this in greater detail, here's a link if you'd like to check that out: ProInteriors.NathanCool.com
