I really would love to see some footage shot indoors using slog 3. I always struggle shooting real estate trying to expose correctly inside without grain
Ignore dudes comment, 800 and 3200 are the dual isos for the a7iv. There are quite a few RU-vid low iso tests that people have been experimenting with also. Hope this helps rather than someone telling you to go look on sonys site lol
Im seriously having the hardest time choosing on what camera to upgrade to. I have the 7iii and I want to get back into video but I also like taking photos and trying to get into photography as well. So hard because with the a7iv obviously getting more MP but 4k 60 for slow motion is eh since its being cropped. Maybe I am over thinking the whole 4k slow motion and probably can make it work.
Just a clarification. Sony actually does not want you to overexpose your image because doing that would not net you the maximum dynamic range of your cam, instead they want you to expose your middle grey to 41IRE so you will achieve the maximum 15 stops of Dynamic Range at ISO 640 for A7s3 (13 stops of useable Dynamic Range according to Gerald Undone's Test). To expose 41IRE, you need an 18% Grey card and expose it at 41IRE. If you have a monitor with false color, just look at the middle grey card and expose it at 41IRE, if you dont have monitor with false color then just use your Zebras and set it up so the Zebra patterns will appear at 41%. Gerald Undone has a video on this. The problem with exposing your middle grey at 41% is that if you have a human subject, most likely you will end up underexposing your image. If you underexpose, then on post you will lift up your exposure, thus also lifting up your shadows on which the noise lives (noise floor) and so resulting to noisier image. When cinematographers say to overexpose when shooting Slog3, its actually not overexposing your image in relation to your subject, but in relation to your middle grey. When shooting Slog3, just expose it according to what your subject is and what exposure your keylight should be. Though on scenes with more shadows, it would be safer to overexpose it a little but its not actually needed. Expose it so that on post you wont need to lift up your exposure so you wont raise up the noise floor on post. To understand better what I am talking about, it would be best to watch Gerald Undone's video demonstrating it.
A good way to expose properly your image is by using the Zebras. You can set two custom Zebras on Sony Cameras. Set one for your subject (at around 50-55%) and another for the highlights so to make sure you wont clip your highlights (for Slog3 94%)
@@BrewReview A better, but expensive way is to use EL Zone. It is better because EL Zone now uses stop values instead of IRE. Unfortunately, currently only Small HD monitors are using EL Zone and those monitors are expensive, especially if you are just starting out
@@BrewReview Also, technically its not advisable to overexpose by raising ISO because it also changes your middle grey as shown by technical charts by the cameras of BMD (not sure about Sony if they released middle grey charts) and so, noise floor also changes. So what it really means by exposing is exposing your image to more light so its either by opening more your Iris, shutter angle (not advisable because it will affect motion blur) or by adding more light. Honestly, from my experience, its actually not needed because the noise floor of Slog3 (at least on Sony a7s III) is already low. Its just for safety measures especially on low light scenes.
Long time follower here, I actually got my A7III cause I saw some of your videos back in the day hehe. I've been doing photography but getting back into filming. so HLG2 709 is the way to go these days? I remember shooting with slog3 but if you get low light its brutal. Any good luts for A7III these days?
Thank you so much for this in-depth video, Henbu. At 2:38, I saw you mention it is good to overexpose the image. The big question I have is how to make the video look less bright in post editing. A lot of professionals will do it in DaVinci by bringing the Offset wheel down a bit, but I don't think that is a good idea because it can crush the shadows. I am genuinely curious because I shoot most of my videos slightly overexposed (+0.7) to retain detail in the shadows and mid-tones. I generally just bring the Gamma wheel down a bit and put the highlights to around -20 to make the image look less bright.
Offset is actually the ideal way to start adjusting exposure in post because its one of the primaries. Macro beats micro. You will be more efficient in grading especially if it was shot with a good Cinematographer/DOP. With Log profiles and with proper color management, you wont easily crush shadows unless you intentionally do it or it actually is the intention of the cinematographer and the director when they shot it. Also I recently learned that, while there is no stopping you from doing it, its not actually advisable to overexpose the image using ISO because it will actually move the middle grey and the noise floor of the image and also lowers dynamic range the higher the ISO. Yes, it will net you a cleaner image but compromises the things I've mentioned. Instead, if you must overexpose the image for whatever reason (mostly for a cleaner image) then add more light or choose a better location that has good lighting then use an ND filter. In fact, I've met several DOP's and many of them actually used the 2nd native ISO of their cameras for brighter scenes as long as they have the proper ND filter for it.
So many opinions out there, thanks for the video, Since I shoot mostly people, I have been trying exposing the zebras just for skin tones lately. Usually around 45-50. I do not care if the background happens to get blown out as I want my subject/Person do be exposed properly. I also have been doing +1 to +1.7 max as I feel the just below +2.0 blinking is too much sometimes.
very informative...i am a regular viewer of .your content..i planning to start making music videos mainly (being inspired from your content) what one lens can i buy for my A7IV to start out to making music videos..(As i am tight on budget) please suggest should i go for zoom or prime.my main requirement music videos is 4K60 4.2.2. and your LUTS..
If your iso gets to the 9000 range you’ll have lots of noise. So you have to pay close attention it’s better to get it up to the 12800 for the dual native to kick in. So in low light I set mine at 12800 and mess with f
I was wondering this as well, but then you have only shutter and aperture, and if you don’t do the double shutter thing you mess with the motion blur, so you’re only left with aperture to tweak
For Slog 3 on a7iv - yes. You can go higher if you really really need. That will introduce more noise. Other Pictures Profile have different base ISO levels. There are charts online for each picture profile what are the recommended iso.
Hello. Thank you for this. Can you give comment on using the ISO please? Or do you have a video on this regards S-LOG3? I'm just looking at your B Roll and your ISO is wildly high at some points so I'm concerned about noise introduction thats all. Thanks for this. Lee
Hey mate, just wondering - when you import the footage into davinci or whatever editing software you use. What is your process of bringing back down the exposure before you convert the slog3 footage into rec 709?
I purchased an FX30 a few months ago and, while I haven't experienced any issues with footage in my professional work yet, I'm still not completely confident in my ability to expose properly. I'll try to keep this brief. When I activate the gamma assist, both the histogram and zebras change, reflecting the values of the new image (I'm aware that older Sonys didn't do this). On the other hand, when I use a field monitor (Atomos Shinobi), the image I get from the camera matches what I see in the viewfinder. However, when I activate a 709 LUT in the monitor (from an SLog3 feed from the camera), it doesn't affect any exposure tools on the monitor. What's the right approach here? I assume that most online tutorials rely on the SLog3 values for exposure, despite the aesthetic LUT applied. Is that correct? I'm feeling very confused. Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated.
I guess here is were I get confused. I always hear that you need to over expose when using slog3. Does this essentially mean increasing the ISO? I get so thrown off because I can never get that "grayish/bland" look on my fx3 when filming something at lower ISOs, even base ISO800. Clearly I'm missing something
Hey, really like your video, and want to ask you some questions if I didn’t bother you. I am a Sony a73 shooter, so you don’t suggest to shoot slog3 on a73 right? Because the camera itself can not handle the file specific in the low light situation. What about slog2? And also do you know if there is a duel native iso in a73 when shooting in HLG2/3 and slog2/3? I searched and didn’t get much useful and consistent answers. Thank you so much! It will be so helpful if you don’t mind to answer these questions 😊
Wow! I wish I can do like 1000 likes. You literally went straight to the point. Other videos have been helpful, but they give you so many options it's hard to choose what settings to use. This is great for anyone to start exploring and just play around. My hats off, need more videos like this.
Sooooooo what about nighttime or really dark environments? What are you supposed to base it off of then? Just keep cranking ISO until it’s +2 in the dark or any light source is completely obliterated? Haha You didn’t mention which exposure metering you use either, that would be useful info.
Cranking ISO is not really recommended above its base ISO (640 and 12800 for A7s3) because your image will be noisier and it will have lesser dynamic range the more you crank your ISO. Its either ISO 640 and ISO 12800. If using those ISO you are still underexpose then open up your aperture, and if you are already wide open and still underexposed, then raise the intensity of your lights if you are using one. Also theres a misunderstanding regarding the exposure. When cinematographers said that you need to overexpose, its not in relation to the frame/image, but in relation to the recommended exposure of Sony which is 41% Middle Grey. Gerald Undone made a great video explaining and demonstrating this. Basically 41% middle grey would result to underexposure if you have a human subject especially people with lighter skin which should be exposed at least 55% IRE on normal lighting. Of course when underexposed, you will raise up your exposure in post, and in turn will also raise up the noise floor, thus resulting to noisier image. If exposed correctly, like exposure based on Ansel Adam's Zone System or Ed Lachman's, then with a proper color management if you are using Davinci Resolve, or using official transform LUT from Sony themselves, then your noise will be pushed down. From my experience in using A7S III, you actually dont need to overexpose it anymore as long as you wont lift up your exposure on post. Though to be safe, if you are on a scene with much shadows, then you could overexpose it a little bit but I already tried exposing it normally (no overexposure) and I still got a clean image. I even tried exposing a subject at 45% IRE (night scene and simulating a moonlight scene so intentionally underexposed) and I still have a clean image. There will be noise but you can only see it if you pixel peep like at 300% magnification lol