How to Fall a Back-leaning Tree Part 1 

Glad someone is paying attention... It's actually amazing just how bad the institutional teachings are for tree cutting techniques

Happy to help!

Hey @GhostScout42 I'm assuming you might have been in Boy Scouts? Was it Troop 42? Novato?

Glad it was helpful!

Yes I am! I started making this one in 2009

best way to learn in this business is from your mistakes.. even if nothing got damaged. when something unexpected happens, there is always a learning opportunity. I always want to know "WHY" !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm sure that'll work. Power is good and high lines make it better.

Glad it helped!

Glad you enjoyed it

not sure exactly what you are refering to, and you're most welcome..

ya. I started making this video in 2009... added the majority of commentary and examples from multiple jobs last winter

Glad it was helpful!

Glad you enjoyed it!

If you are falling a tree 90 degrees to the lean then it's not backleaner, it's a side leaner. IN that case the line that is anchored 180 degrees to the lean would be called a right angle retainer line. That's a very effective strategy which I posted a video about in 2009 or 2010. Those true blue lines are rated at 7400 lbs. and usually the higher the pull line trhe better. Maybe not in something dead and rotting but in the majority of cases 2/3 the height or higher significantly improves your leverage with little chance of splitting out.... If you don't feel good about putting that much pull in the top, then set another line lower in the tree and pull on both.

How does a180 man pull a tree over with 2000lbs of force, and 30 Tons of Torque by using a very long rope secured to the tree, and anchored to a 2nd tree? Using wedges and a 180lb pull a back leaning tree can fall in the opposite direction easily and safely. As the angle of the rope increases the force decreases however the advantage is that if the pull is continuous then the continuous force will help to ensure that the tree falls in the desired location. I doubt this scientific method is OSHA approved. Rope A needs to be much longer than the height of leaning tree for fairly obvious reasons. 🙂 I would say that this energy is more than enough to break the holding wood at the stump and bring the leaning tree into the opposite direction of the lean. Well, OK I dropped the tree in my yard before I did the math here based on the principles of physics and mathematics. But I drew up a diagram i can attached as a photo if interested. @@murphy4trees

Success! I applied your techniques and safely dropped the tree. I put just enough tension on the chain to be snug, then made my cuts, leaving only the hinge. Then I hopped on the tractor, threw it in reverse and brought it right down. Thanks for the video.

NOCE.. so glad to hear these storied.. It's very cool to know I helped a man I will never meet. It's touching!

I always wondered how church steeples are built.. someone has to do it I guess!

Some refer to an open face as you described, both cuts angled about 45 degrees from lvel making a 90 degree open face. More commonly the open face refers to a steep angled top cut of about 70 degrees and a level floor or bottom cut. Genereally when I say open face, I AM talking about the later.

@@murphy4trees great info. Thank you

YW

The damage is probably 10ft or better and this is a very tall oak.

tough to tell without a little more information... you may need to call a pro. there are ways to set up redirects that will create a desired vector. hard to explain in the comment section, or pound in some ground anchors

this was amost 15 years ago... those porties aren't made anymore...

You mean from the pull through a crotch down the back of the tree tied just above the felling cuts? Pulling power is the same, fine as long as you are happy with your visual inspection from the ground and the crotch is strong enough.

I've used it plenty. Simple, quick and effective. I'll also use a basket and just tie both ends to the machine, which puts less force on the rope

@steems951, I'm neither novice nor pro as I continue to learn through the years on my own projects. That multi stack cut concept crossed my mind. Never seen anyone do that and probably for good reason. Every cut is a compromise on the trunks integrity. We've seen tree's move and start spitting wedges. Likely too many irons in the fire to be safe. It could turn into an unpredictable vertical accordion. When working around protected hazards your going to have to invest in equipment or pay to contract out. As described here in the video a multi line or cable rigging set up will help you achieve the objective. If you have a one off hazard tree, though house killer, you may wish to pay for services. If you like the challenge and see years ahead of use you may wish to start adding rigging equipment. Some times I use the truck, other times I cable up with the industrial size come along with its dual cable and 3 foot plus telescoping handle. As you get up to cables end the east & west safety lines save your progress for a center cable winch reset. Not easy but you can work alone this way. Slow, steady and safe. If the tree's not rotten you may choose to climb and chunk it down. As stated every job has its own unique considerations to ponder.

half inch true blue. 3/4" for heavier pulls. the rope doesn't break when the proper understanding is used.. if there is any chance of breaking the rope, I use 2 ropes.. when 2 isn't enough then I use 3 etc...

best strategy is to get a job with a good company and learn frm some veteran pros

@@murphy4trees I did apply at one but didn't know anyone working there. I have learned from watching videos and practicing it. So far so good

@@murphy4trees I served 18 years as a heavy equipment operator. And we did use chainsaws. I don't know if you are familiar with the military. But we would be sent to do jobs. and use whatever equipment we have. I really enjoy your videos although most a beginner shouldn't try. I signed up for youtube premium and made a playlist of tree videos I watch several times. I did a job yesterday on a tree that could only be cut and hung on a another. I got it to the ground. I should of charged $200 but made $150. I advertise Tree services; A tree cut down $200 ; just limbs and branches $150 and to prune and hedge trees $100. My ad is run in a small town like newspaper. I had Allen's tree service help at my place with a hung tree. He brought in a bucket truck and charged me $850. And I did the clean up. I will watch more of your videos and use the ones made for a beginner. You said learn from a pro but I don't see chainsaw training available. If I did go work for a tree surgeon they want experience. and if you did start they would have you first doing labor like picking up wood. But I will be just fine. Thanks for your help. God bless

mostly half inch true blue unless they are monsters.

@@murphy4trees thanks so much for the reply. Do you think that would be sufficient for an 80’ pine, probably 14” round trunk base?

@@SavDog262 yes.. that's tall ad skinny... easy to pull with a high line .

​@@murphy4treeswhy not something like synthetic winch cable/rope? I seen another commenter mentioned that and it's what I typically use with my psw 4000 portable winch

much appreciated

thanks

NO don't try it yourself. You need a lot of pull with heavy ropes and machines as well as a perfect cut... SIde leaners are harder than back leaners. When a hinge fails it always fails to the side weight... If there's a few bushes or a fence that could get hit them maybe worth taking a chance, but anything of value that could be dmaged simply isn't worth taking a chance on. Ask around for a real tree guy to come and do it on the side form his day job.

That's just what I say and 9:28 . I have a grpahic that talks about pre-tensioing. Probably should have mentioned it earlier. thanks.. and no I don't usually bother running high redirect pullies to keep the pull lines level. Much more important to set a high pull line. If you are pulling with a truck, i's not a bad idea to set a redirect on the ground to keep from lifting the tires.

I usually have big pines with hard lean in the wrong direction so I have to rig up high to a neighboring tree and run down to the base using pulleys. I always make my backcuts first. I have one to cut in a couple weeks, it's leaning over a house

negative.. young norway maple 100%