How To: Fiberglass LOC Precision airframes 

Use a long dowel or a pipe. Put it through the tube and hang it to cure horizontally.

@@locprecision542 thanks!

Do you suggest also to remove the glossy coating ?

I've been looking everywhere myself, hard stuff to find apparently

Either of you find a solution?

@@chrisgreen417 Amazon.... BANLTRE 18"x48" 5 Pieces Clear Blank Stencil Acetate Mylar for Cricut ,Silhouette Vinyl Cutting

@@chrisgreen417 Amazon... BANLTRE 18"x48" 5 Pieces Clear Blank Stencil Acetate Mylar for Cricut ,Silhouette Vinyl Cutting

Back in the beginning of the hobby, we didn't have the luxury of fiberglass kits. They were exorbitantly too expensive. The affordable fiberglass kits came along in the 2010's or so. A traditional cardboard or phenolic kit was and still is more affordable than a fiberglass kit. Since the beginning of the hobby, many rocket enthusiasts would modify their kits to accept larger motors than recommended. That's the nature of the hobby. So in order to handle the extra stresses and G-forces exerted on the airframe, a layer or two of fiberglass cloth was added. In short, it's an old school way of adding strength to an airframe, without adding a lot of weight. It's a skill that every rocket enthusiast should know. Rolling your own tubes is the next logical step, and that begins with a mandrel covered in mylar or packing tape. A release agent is layered on, and 2 or 3 layers of fiberglass or carbon fiber is layed up onto the mandrel. I use shrink tape wrapped in a spiral fashion over the mylar sheet, and taped at the ends. Then I cure the tube in a curing oven. The tape shrinks down, squeegeeing the excess resin out of the layup. You can use full length couplers for the mandrel, so that the tube you make will accept the commercially available nosecones.