J. Mark Reed describes the general step by step process of filling a separate PCP airgun tank by using a high pressure compressor- in this case, a Yong Heng. This would be particularly helpful to those new to the hobby of PCP airguns.
Thanks, I really enjoy my Yong Heng and these types of videos. I've had my Yong Heng for three years now and have used it nearly everyday for the first two years without a problem. I have yet to fill my large SCBA tank because I'm scared to due to lack of experience, but I have filled my little Hatsan field tank.
thanks for posting the video. I would add a bleed valve to the bottom of your filter so when you release the pressure from the line it will purge the moisture at the bottom of the filter out.
Thanks for watching! The copper water sepator filter has that very thing and I use it every five minutes during the fill to purge the water. I also use it at the end as you suggest. Thanks again.
Excellent! I have been intrigued by Shoe Box compressors and it’s my understanding that they are not being produced anymore. I think you would find the YH to be very different than the Shoe Box, but it should be a little faster from what I understand. I don’t think you would be disappointed.
@@jmarkreed Hello; for the ill-informed, is Shoe Box a brand or a type? I guess I could google it...but the reason I ask, I am seeing some portable compressors in the sub $1000 range that say they are oil free; and they are pretty small - like, almost shoe box size - that's why I wondered. I'm wondering how they accomplish that, and thinking maybe they do like my Harbor freight air compressor where the cylinder walls are teflon coated; basically made for a certain lifespan?
@@arsbadmojo Shoe Box compressors are/were a brand that used very dependable but somewhat slow technology. I really don't have any experience with them, but I believe they were very good. They are no longer made. I don't think they used the same technology as the current oil-less compressors. I have a couple of videos on my channel discussing one of the oil-less compressors, the GX CS2. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Q3QvRexvPpA.html It is a great little compressor that is used for only filling airguns directly- not for filling larger tanks. It is also very reasonably priced in the sub $300 range.
@@FirstLast-tx3yj Thanks for watching. That particular tank is a 100 cu inch "buddy" tank and it takes an average of around three and a half minutes to fill (not from empty).
Good straightforward informational video, i plan on getting a bottle soon, probably the 6 liter, i have 3 of the yong hengs, 2 new that i have tested and moth balled and the first one that i got 5 years ago, still hits 300 bar, ive only filled guns with it, pretty much daily, my main gun i shoot is a 480cc 250 bar i refill at 150 b. they are great little pumps, just keep them cool with clean oil. Thanks again!
I have two used 45 minute SCBA tanks (6.8 liters) that are filled by my YH. That seems to be the best practical size for filling and use. Both were bought on Ebay for a great price ($159), and both were still under DOT certification. I had to look for a while to find them, but it was worth it. They are great and should last for a long time. I then bought a StikMan from Air Tanks Plus to fill my guns. Wonderful product to use with the SCBA's. You should be in great shape for many years of use with your extra YH's. Thanks for the comments and for watching!
@@jmarkreed hey great tip on where to look, the bottle i have looked at is not dot, i had rather have something dot approved, sorry just getting back to you, i had no idea you had answered me back, thanks again and enjoy your content.
Great Video ! I do exactly the same except when I'm at the desired pressure I quickly close the tank valve and immediately open the tank bleed valve. Then I shut down the compressor and open the 2 bleed valves on the unit.
Thanks very much! As you know, there are so many different ways that we can do this, and I certainly see the logic in doing what you are doing. The only reason that I decided not to do it that way is to maintain the full pressure in the system to allow the expulsion of as much water as I can from the YH bleed valves. By decreasing the pressure from tank valve the differential pressure will be less when the YH valves are opened. It probably doesn't make a lick of difference, but I want as much water out as possible. Thanks very much for sharing!
@@jmarkreed I just bought the Airforce Airguns Texan SS in .457! Thank you sir for you’re reply, I’ll continue watching, and commenting! Again great video!
@@srchristopher6040 Wow! That should be a lot of fun. It's also going to need a lot of air! Hope you really enjoy it! Airforce Airguns are a ton of fun.
I like all the info, very useful. It would be great to see all the connectors that are required between compressor and air bottle, and what each connector is called.
1:45 What instance would you need the gauge on the other end of the line, instead of the dead head alone? The gauge on the tank should be accurate(hopefully) I have had gauges off by 500psi though. lol I am glad to see air tanks plus on here. Buying from Air Venturi was my first mistake, a nightmare rather.
Yes, thanks for asking. I think the separate gauge I have from Air Tanks Plus is more accurate than the one on my smaller tank, so I use that. I also have a large tank that has excellent gauges, and in that case, I use the dead head. I don't want to be definitive that one is necessarily better than the other. It really depends on your own equipment. I just wanted those who are learning about all this to know we have options- and both are fine.
Hi, I'm in Scotland and have much the same set as you except I have the one way valve, bought from best fittings, and it works a treat, as soon as both pressures are equal it starts to fill the tank, once filled to pressure you require simply shut tank valve then switch off compressor and release the air from both bleed valves 🍻
Yes! Excellent. Greetings to you in Scotland. Our favorite family vacation was to Scotland a few years ago. Absolutely wonderful experience, and we certainly want to return when we can. Can't say enough nice things about Scotland and its people. Simply wonderful in every way! I recently bought a really great one way valve from Air Tanks Plus (airtanksplus.com/product/quick-connect_in-line_one-way_check-valve_w_bleed_valve/) that has a bleed valve and can be used on any tank I fill. It's a very handy addition. I was assuming that most won't have something like this.
as a safety measure I'm sure you could get a non return to put inline (there is one on your rifle tank they aren't that big) as it would allow the tank to just be opened then it will fill as soon as the pressure equalises just a suggestion and by no means detracting from your video thank you for sharing as always and especially for the talk on the risk involved people don't realise the hidden power in air pressure but it's devastating if miss handled! best wishes have a great day
Thanks very much, and I completely agree. I recently bought a really great one way "check" valve from Air Tanks Plus (airtanksplus.com/product/quick-connect_in-line_one-way_check-valve_w_bleed_valve/) that has a bleed valve and can be used on any tank I fill. It's a very handy addition. I was assuming that most people won't have something like this so I didn't include it in the video. Thanks again for watching!
Same relative setup as y'all, one thing I do a bit different is leave the tank closed and run the filters and line up to, if not just a tad over, the target pressure for the tank. That way I just tested the lines and orings on my filters as I am using them. Then simply Crack the tank valve open as soon as the top pressure is tested. The lines and filters will just act as a tank and fill the actual tank. I'd much rather blow a line or pop an oring without the volume of the tank hooked up
Thank you for the reply. As with most things in life, there are many ways of doing something, and I'm sure mine is no better than yours. Maybe one day, we will be able to come up with a consensus that works better than all others, but until then we'll all continue to push the boundaries and try to figure all this out. Keep up the tweaks, and continue to let us all know if you find something better (or something worse). We'll all appreciate it. Thanks again!
I noticed you open the tank valve pretty much all the way, several turns. I was taught when using welding tanks a quarter to a half turn was all that was needed to fully open the valve. That would make it much quicker to shut down if something went wrong. Great video, just wondering what your feelings were on only opening the tank one turn or less.
You know that's an interesting question, and I don't know if I have a great answer for you. Just from my experience of filling my guns from the tank, I know that it takes around a 20% turn or so just to get it started. I guess, ultimately, I want to make sure it's completely open when I fill the tank so that I don't have to work against that extra resistance of a partially closed valve. It's a good question. I'm sure someone has a good answer. Maybe they will chime in. Thanks for asking.
Thank you so much for this. Just what I needed was a simple demonstration. I watched far too many videos that complicated things beyond my simple brain! Much appreciated! Do you recommend any particular filter or type of filter?
Thanks for watching. I use the "gold filter" that many others use. I ordered mine through Amazon. It has molecular sieve to get the water vapor out before it gets to your tank. I also use a water/oil separator filter before the "gold filter" to get most of the condensed water out. You will probably find some debate about using something like that, but I live in a high humidity area and can see the benefits when I open it during the filling process. A decent amount of water comes out. I don't think it hurts to have it.
On some chinese compresors there is a warnning label, to not operate compresor at site where oil level eye is. There are known cases, when the compressor is damaged, the cover is broken and you can be injured by its shards. It is recommended to point the cover in a safe direction, such as a wall.
I have the same setup. I always did what you did, wait for the pressure to be equal then open the tank. Then I thought I saw someplace that they said there was a one way valve so air from the tank wouldn't push back into the compressor. So it seemed they opened the tank at the same time they turned on the compressor. Do you have any thoughts on that? Also when the tank reached the pressure I wanted I would close the value of the tank, then open the pressure relief valves on the compressor, then turn it off. I thought it would be better to turn it off without it being under pressure. Interested on your thoughts of that process too.
Thanks for the comments. The one way valve you mention is a check valve, but that is not standard on most tanks. I recently bought a check valve for that very purpose for one of my smaller tanks. You can certainly open the tank valve from the start if you're using a check valve- most just don't have one. I use a Stikman SCBA adapter for my SCBA tanks, and it has a check valve also. It's a very handy tool if you are using SCBA tanks. As far as the shut down process goes, I have heard of some doing the same as you, and I don't have any data to contradict that. It could be a better process. My YH automatically turns off when it reaches 290B so that actually starts the sequence for me. Without having a check valve, I would then have to close the tank valve as the next step or risk loosing a lot of pressure if I opened the YH valves next. I figured that with the YH off and the tank valve closed next, the pressure would remain equal throughout the system before bleeding. I didn't think it would stress the YH anymore than it was before it shut off. Anyway, that's my thinking. I certainly could be wrong, but fortunately, it's continued to work well to this point. Thanks for asking.
If the output valve is working on the compressor it shouldn't matter shutting it off with pressure. The cylinders bleed of pressure fairly quickly when they are not reciprocating 30 hz or so. There is a check valve where the final stage line enters the block that also holds the gauge, make sure it works as it's usually just a bit of debris in there if not
Thanks. I've used that one for about 3 1/4 years and it's worked great with no problems at all. I've tried my best to treat it well and be consistent with maintenance. It's been a solid unit. Thanks for watching!
I keep a log of all my fills, but I am out of town right now and don’t have access to it at the moment. In general, it takes around 11 to 12 minutes with my YH for most of my fills, but the majority are starting from around 190 bar. Going from 220 to 300 was probably 6-7 minutes. Thanks for checking and for watching!
Well, different for sure. I have a TX200 along with my PCP's. No critique of either. Different technology. Different investment commitment- PCP's MUCH more due to all the needed accessories. A little easier to work on springers. PCP's with moderators are much quieter than springers. Both totally fun to shoot. I think if you're in the sport for the long haul and you have the means, you definitely need both.
Hello, it's been a while since the video... One question... I have the same compressor. Is it normal that the red valve always releases air intermittently at slightly higher pressure? Maybe someone knows an answer?
I am not personally familiar with that compressor, but I found a great review that said that it is not rated for SCBA sized tanks. You can find the review here: hardairmagazine.com/reviews/air-venturi-nomad-ii-compressor-review-by-doug-wall/ Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching and asking. I use two different types of filters. One is a water separator and the other is filled with molecular sieve to remove all (or as much as possible) water before it goes into the tank. Both were purchased through Amazon. Here are the links: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q221JFX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SX5G9V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hi there , thanks for this great video . I'm also plann to buy this yong heng . Is this compressor capable to fill 6.8l tank up to 300 bar ? What do you recommed me , smaller tank to buy (3 lit. ) or bigger (6.8 lit)
Thanks for asking. The answer is yes. I have two 6.8l SCBA tanks that I fill with the YH. With that being said, I have never started from 0 psi and I never run my unit much more than 15 minutes at a time. I will typically start around 170B and fill to a max of 290B. I have my unit set to stop at 290B. I just don't want to stress it any more than that. I'm sure you could fill to 300B, but just be careful about your temperatures. If it runs for 20 minutes, I would definitely recommend taking a break and letting it cool off before filling any higher. Incremental filling is a good strategy.
If you want a hassle-free option get the hills EC3000 It's expensive but is rated to top up a 7 l tank or to fill it with multiple sessions no water cooling needed The compressor will operate and switch itself on and off as needed so no need to worry about overheating or when to open the tank valve I open mine before switching the compressor on it copes with it fine, That's what it's built to do.
@@urbanspaceman7183 That's good to hear. I understand most of the reviews are very good. It's a little beyond the price point for many, but hopefully it's a good investment. Right now we don't know about the ultimate longevity of the unit since it hasn't been out but a few years. It will be interesting to see what the average lifespan is. From a cost standpoint, it's equivalent to approximately 4 Yong Heng's. It would have to last at least a minimal of 12 years to compare favorably (assuming a minimal 3 years for each YH).
@@jmarkreed A rolls Royce costs more than a ford and both do a similar job .I know which one I would rather drive. Not having to worry about water makes the Hill more user friendly as does the start and forget feature, but I do understand that price is a consideration, just worth paying for me and the way I use it.
I had my air tank filled today in my local Gun Shop. I paid £7.50 for a 300bar fill. I have a 6.5ltr tank to fill my pcp airgun. I have just checked the pressure in the tank and it's showing 270bar. Is that normal to lose 10%. Should I go back and ask for the 30bar that's missing. Also does that mean I lose 10% of the fills into my Weihrauch Hw100. Thanks
Excellent question! The answer is- it depends. It ultimately depends on how fast the tank is filled. You may have noticed that your tank feels warm to the touch after filling. There is a direct relationship between volume and temperature. This is known as Charles's Law. As the tank cools the pressure decreases. Ideally, the shop should fill and let it cool down and then top it off to the final pressure. A slow fill causes less temperature and less "loss." If you could leave it overnight and have them top it off the next morning that would be ideal. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Thanks for asking. I just want to clarify your question. Are you asking about the temperature of the compressor itself, or of the tank that is being filled? I'm not really focusing on the Yong Heng compressor in this video, but every compressor will have certain ranges that are considered safe. For me, I don't want to see the temperature of the Yong Heng get into the 140's F. I try to keep the temperatures as low as possible and the highest temps that I see in my fills are generally in the 120-130's F range. As far as the tank itself, the temperature will increase as the tank is filled according to Charles' Law. Volume of a gas and temperature are proportional. The faster a tank is filled the faster it becomes hot. With that being said, I don't actually check the temperature of the tank. If you are filling your airgun, you want to do it slowly. Please let me know if that is what you were asking or not. Thanks!
Thanks. My tank (like most) does not have a check valve which would prevent the back flow of pressure towards the compressor. Once the compressor is stopped there should be equal pressure throughout the entire system and allow the closure of the tank valve without causing any pressure flow in either direction. Without a check valve on the tank, if the bleed valves are opened on the compressor pressure would start flowing from the tank towards the compressor and I would lose some of the pressure I’ve tried to save in the tank. That’s why I do it that way.
Because unless the tank is completely empty, it would have a much higher pressure than the compressor at start up. You would essentially have a massive pressure gradient from the tank to the compressor and it would bleed back and destroy the compressor. Waiting on the fill line to reach the same pressure of the tank prevents the pressure gradient. Once you open the tank valve, the pressure in the tank must flow back toward the compressor unless you have a check valve installed to prevent that. Thanks for watching!
Yes, it's a pressure gauge, but most that you get on a lot of tanks are not necessarily great. Having a good quality gauge can be really helpful and there are some good alternative gauge options that you can use instead. Few gauges will continually read the internal tank pressure at all times.
The most important thing you didn't say is how long it takes to fill the bottle up to, and what temperature we can let the compressor go without having problems damaging it? Compressor temperature is very important.
Thank you for watching. The main point of this particular video was to give a concise tutorial on the actual filling of a tank. The type of compressor or tank was not relevant for this discussion. I have a separate video discussing the Yong Heng in particular which may answer some of your questions. The time it takes to fill a particular tank completely depends on the size of the tank, the existing pressure in the tank, the pressure to ultimately be achieved in the tank, and the output capacity of the compressor used to fill the tank. There is no set time for filling any tank. I agree that compressor temperature is very important, and I address that in my Yong Heng video. As far as I know, there is no agreed to minimal temperature that would guarantee damage to the Yong Heng, but I would strongly recommend keeping the temperature as low as possible. Thanks again.
Although your tank may have a "built-in" pressure gauge, depending on the quality of your tank, it may or may not be very accurate. Having a separate dedicated gauge is not a bad idea. At a minimum, you can compare gauges to see if they read the same or not. Dealing with extremely high pressure, it's a good idea to be as accurate as possible. It's just another layer of safety. Thanks for watching!
A 33 liter tank is huge, and I would definitely not recommend filling it with anything less than a professional high capacity compressor. The Yong Heng is not designed to fill any tank like that. Thanks for checking.
Wow. What a great question. I'm not going to have a great answer for you since I don't recall at this point, but know that I always consider costs and do extensive research before I buy anything. Know also that anyone getting into PCP airguns is going to spend far more than they think. It's really an addictive hobby/passion that lends itself to getting a lot of stuff. Nevertheless, most don't mind opening their wallets to buy a ton of fun. Ultimately, that's what it's about. Over time, the cost of shooting airguns will probably be less than powder burners considering the differential in ammo cost, but the initial costs will likely be much greater, especially for higher-end guns and air compressor setups.
Yes! I definitely do the same. This video was not focused on the Yong Heng itself, but you can find my full YH set up in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JHeEOber4do.html Thanks for watching!
I love your comment. I am a pediatric otolaryngologist by profession, so I am incredibly keen on protecting my hearing- and I do. I actually wear noise cancelling earbuds when I run it. Now, with that being said, the decibel level stays below 90 dB, and for the few minutes it runs, I should not have a problem even without the buds. Nevertheless, I aways want to be careful for myself and will do all I can to protect my hearing. Everyone else should do the same. Thanks again for your comments and for watching.
Springers are great! I have an Air Arms TX200 MrkIII that’s wonderful. It’s not as quiet as the PCP’s, but it’s very reliable and accurate. I have nothing against springers for sure.
Well, I would respectfully disagree with that. For one, many don't have access to dive shops or they may be located many miles away. The cost of gas adds up. The only dive shop in my area charged me $15 the only time I went. That also adds up pretty fast if you're doing a lot of shooting and filling. Sounds like you have a situation that most don't. Great for you. Unfortunate for the rest of us.
@@sahhull That's fantastic. We have one dive shop and one paintball place but it's a good 40 minute drive one way. I agree. Competition makes a huge difference. That's why I'm having to stick with my YH. It's also pretty hard to beat over time, and I don't have to go anywhere to get my tanks filled. Overall, I'm pretty satisfied with it.
@@jmarkreed the closest place is literally 5 mins walk away, but I'm not about to haul a steel 12litre 300bar cylinder down the street. But they are all within 15-20min drive. They charge me £4 to fill my 12 litre to 300 bar.. And that includes free coffee and a chat while I'm waiting.
There will always be a trade off between efficiency and safety. I’m wasting free air to ensure water stays out of my tanks. I think that’s a good trade.
Fantastic! Wonderful and impressive job. Most of us are not as spry as you. Keep up the great work! No commercial here. It’s just an alternative way of doing things. I’m sure the handpump is a great workout.
So you can't afford a compressor, got it ! No need to be rude to this informative RU-vidr because of your inabilities. We have bicycles too, but don't rely on them over our cars and trucks for traveling long distances. Your bad attitude may be the reason for your lack of financial means, fyi. The more you know ❤ 10 years of handpumping and you call using a compressor "stupid", the irony is thick for sure. Best of luck to you 👍
