Framers don’t get enough credit, they’re literally the backbone of society. I’m a roofer now, but my first job was framing, and I’ll always have big respect for the trade
Yes sire it's good to have knowledge of a little of every thing, so you can get a whole lot of done before hiring a professional. saves a whole lotta $$$
I'M 67 AND AMOUNG OTHER CARPENTRY WORK I HELPED FRAME HOUSES AND EXTERIOR TRIM FOR ABOUT 8 YEARS! 4000 SQ FT AND UP, BIGGEST IWORKED ON WAS A 18,000 SQ FT WITH A SIX CAR GARAGE AND A FOUR CAR CARRIAGE HOUSE IN A COMPOUND LAYOUT WITH A BIG MASONRY FENCE! SURE MISS THOSE DAYS! EXCEPT FOR BELOW 20 DEGREE TEMPS HAHA! AND MUD...HATE MUD!
@@watchinglistening yessir! That’s amazing! My first boss was in his late 70’s when he taught me how to frame, swing a hammer properly, and many other things… he would always be on the job site with us doing what he was able to do… I had huge respect for the man! He would always tell me how lucky I was to have a nail gun lol
Absolutely I agree I once asked a set of framing guys in Texas when building my house next door if he would build a 14-1500 sq ft home “ framing only” if I got the material and plans for him and said he’d charge me 5k, thought that was damn cheap
Bud... your the FIRST PERSON TO EVER show it!! 😂 I'm a union carpenter framer journeyman but even most apprentices STILL DONT KNOW THIS OLD SCHOOL REAL FRAMER TRICK! GOOD JOB
CAPS really drive it home and make your comment seem better than everyone elses. My grandma uses CAPS all the time... also keeps answering the TV remote when a phone rings.
I worked for a Carpenter when I was 13-14 years old. The two back to back summers and experience I gained from Mr. William was incredibly invaluable. The man did everything from framing, roofing, to finish carpentry and I’ll never forget the attention to detail coupled with his rate of speed to get things done was truly fascinating. These tips of the trade are so simple yet you would only know these tips if you spent time working alongside these fine gentlemen.
Back when a 'builder' actually built every part ofa house/building, from Foundation to finish fitout. Not me as I cam late to the trades but some of my mates from school had their start with the old school builders. First day on the job was learning which end of a shovel went into the ground as all footing were dug by hand, be it rock or clay or mud, " Get down in the trench mate."
And there’s always new people everyday, and also “normies” like me. We don’t need to know this, but it’s a good way to help us understand how shit gets done. Nothing is too basic to share.
Bring your speed square all the way down till It has full contact with the 2 x 4 and let the chalk line determine the angle instead of doing your best to let the chalk line go down the edge of the speed square. In other words, let your chalk line go to the 49° mark.
I'm and old timer, have heard "what's the angle of the dangle?" a million times (I worked as a framer 6 months in the late 70's). I NEVER KNEW it meant anything... ha. Brilliant
I'm not a framer, I'm a painter who has to hide all the mistakes of framers. " Don't worry about it the painter will fix it." No truer words spoken. That's in addition to all the trades prior, draining the bank with overcharges. Leaving nothing for the finishers who make their shoddy overpriced work look right.
Actually you just set the lip of the square on the board and the plumb line will indicate the pitch/angle. That way u can set it and let it settle without in-accurately representing the angle by trying to line the line up with the edge of the square. With your method you’re also making a line of sight reading with the board edge which changes with your vantage point rather then reading the line right against the square…. but you were close
Not quite, your method will show a level cut not a plumb cut. His method will show an actual pitch, I like to use a torpedo level in the same way he is doing it, but if you want to find the actual pitch or hip/val he is doing right. But either or it's pretty easy to convert the two ways.
Maybe I'm misunderstanding what Josh is trying to say, but if I read it right he is saying to set the lip of the square directly on the board and let the plumb line show you the angle, which is right if you are looking for a level cut and not a pitch. A square held level off of the pivot will give you pitch, For example let's say that you are working with a 5/12 pitch which is around 22.5 degrees and you held your lip against the edge of your board, then your plumb line would read 68° Which would be a level cut, But I guess it all depends on what works best for you. Heck back when I started we learned from a framing square, we had to get our rise and run right. Speed squares definitely simplify the process, they even put nice little scribe marks for you.
@@IRAQYsniper95 that has nothing to do with this though. Only in framing will you ever really have access to above and below whatever you're trying to measure. And that's not going to be super accurate anyway, that's only good enough for framing. The best way would be atan(rise/run) which will give you the exact angle. This is strictly for framing, and if you need to learn how to use a square this is definitely not the video.
@psyience3213 I'm not talking about this video in particular tho I was talking in general... a speed sqaure has other uses besides framing You could use it as a straight guide for instance on a circular saw! You can use it to find angles or cut mitres All this is useful when you're starting out and you don't have all the tools a normal shop has
I've been doing it with math..Dude suc up the bad comments .I have been building for 42 years.Men have big egos.They think they have to be the Alpha male.What I have learned they are all mouth.You just taught me something.I hope my other comment taught you something.
Ive always had a hard time figuring out framing even though I get geometry pretty well. So, thanks for the tip. Very useful for an older retired military guy like me trying to learn as much as I can about the trades.
Thanks, this is great. Unfortunately, at 67, the next time I need this I'll remember I need my square and that line, get out to the job, put my square on it, and turn around and look for you. Same thing happens when I need to tie a knot I watched on here.
The ancient egyptians used squares very similar to this with weighted strings for maintaining the angle while constructing pyramids. Make a video explaining all the uses of a square, like the other numbers, uses/reasons for the cut out sections on a aquare, etc.
I think ypu can do this but put the speed square all the way down on the board and the chalk line will cross at the 49° also. Not 100% but I think I seen that somewhere else. If someone tries it that way and it works let us know.
I’m 32 years old and I’ve been doing plumb lines for 50 days and this video has taught me that the angle is 49 degrees I have so much appreciation for the 2x4 thanks young man
A friend of my family started his own business building log cabins. This wasnt planned it just morphed that way. He knew of my past & was real reluctant to hire me. Rightly so. i was in my late 40s so i wasnt no kid. i had quit drinking & drugs & got my driver license back. The only real experience i had working with wood was high school wood shop. But i could read a tape measure & like everything else in life i caught on quick! Him & i traveled the USofA building log cabins. Ohio, Texas, Forbes Mt Colorado, New Mexico, Canada did i mention Ohio? To say the least i gave it my all & yes da Boss was impressed with my carpentry skills
"Level" = ⬅️ ➡️ = 0° "Plum" = ⬆️⬇️ = 90° That board is 49° from Level. This trick is only useful for finding VERTICLE angles. Also, you dont HAVE to use a chaulk-line; you can make a "plum bob" with any weight and string.
I just use an analog with a needle. Just set the level on top gives you pin point accuracy . A lot quicker and more accurate . I'm an Automotive Technician.
great tip, I have always, used a level with bulb, and drew a line on the board plumb. Then moved my square up to that line. A plumb line would be much easier, more accurate, and probably faster. TY. I have seen squares with a level bulb, but uneven parts of a board can throw that off. And shorter distances are less accurate.
You were taught this in high school geometry, at least given the tools to figure it out. But then it became popular to denigrate education, so no one remembers. I once blew the minds of some people when I bisected a angle with a stake and twine to chalk a baseball diamond.
Except the angle of the board is 41, not 49. The angle of the empty space above the board to horizontal would be 49. The angle from the string to the edge of the board would be 41.
As a DIY guy I’ll forget next time I need to measure. I’m always forgetting tips and tricks when I need them. I did some work that took me way too long. Within an hour of being done I remembered a way that would’ve saved me a lot of time.
Everything takes me too long unless it's something I've done a dozen times. By now I estimate how long something *should* take and multiply it by 3 to come up with how long it will actually take me to finish a project. 😄
Only thing you have to remember is what angle yore measuring. In this case, the angle between the cross brace and the top plate is 49 degrees. The angle on the other side, between the brace and the bottom plate is 41 degrees (90-49). Doesnt matter if you always work from the same side, but if youre communicating the angle to somebody you gotta make sure they're on the same page.
I worked with a base board frame work company and I learned how to use the tape measure. It was really cool stuff. He’s got it better with that square and the chalk though. Good productive stuff.
Correct me if I am wrong, but isnt the angle of the brace actually 41°. Just lay your flat edge down on the board and the plumb line would literally fall over the marking on the square. You're making it too hard on yourself. Or you could do it your way and just subtract by 90. This is happening because your numbers are starting at the "top" of the square and not at the bottom. If you were to cut and end and it butt up below the brace horizontally your end would need to be 41° and for a similar horizontal board on top it would be 49°.
I'd put that beautiful wedding band in my pocket and instead wear it on my night out with Ms. Framer. It's too nice for work. The trick is cool, too...
