I play with the pieces of wood found on property. This is just with my pocket knife and left over sandpaper. Sometimes I cut the shape it wants to be. Then I cut and sand to a shape. When I’m pleased with it, I rub it and rub more, with no more than the oils in my skin, sometimes I’ve used hand lotion or oils. That helps sometimes. I love the feel of the wood. You definitely it take to a way different level. I do appreciate what you do tremendously. Love watching you🤩
Just stumbled upon your page a few days ago. I simply cant stop watching. I've watched every episode 2 times now. Mindboggling how talented and creative your company is. LOVE your creations :)
was wondering yesterday what was going on but glad to see ya this week. This is a great video on finishing and I believe being a great finisher is the key to wood working. Thank you Dylan great job and easy to follow. Keep em coming.
I watch so many education and review videos trying to put into place best practices and product. You guys are really the most informative. The information is explained so we'll. Keep it up!
You've both completely driven me to making these tables please keep it up thank you guys blackforest and blacktail you guys are the best amazing artists
Thanks, Jesse, we're super glad you're learning from us! And yeah makes it easier for everyone to find the products mentioned cause they're all in one place!
Hi Guys great work! Can I suggest another vid? Sanding and finishing smaller parts-like table legs or chair parts? Covering stuff like finish sanding round overs/chamfers, Clamping methods, pre-finishing with Osmo? Thanks for your videos. Your content rocks!
There is a massive difference in labor hours between a 320grit sand and a 4000 buff. I’m considering a 800grit sand as a better balance of clarity/durability and time. In traditional finishes 320 scratches are barely visible between coats(but necessary for adhesion)Going to 600 makes them nearly invisible. We do this with high end waterborne clears. Time for a test panel.
600 is great too, we like 320 just because it's a lot harder to scratch which is a huge benefit for most of our clients who are using these as kitchen and dining tables
Informative and interesting, providing good info for everyone on Osmo and your finishing product. Good call providing a stability test by Charlie at the same time. Time efficiant for new clients evaluating your products 😂💕
Absolutly love these videos. This one was very helpfull. If i wouldn't have to pay like a lot for shipping to europe, i would definetly buy some products of your website. Im here since 6000 subscribers and still watching every video. Now you guys are close to 100k! Keep it up
Hi! Great tutorial, I learned a lot from it, thank you! One question though: Is there a reason why you use Osmo Polyx instead of TopOil, which is specifically designed for tabletops?
Hey guys - beautiful work and luv your vids. Been a fan of Osmo for a while now and use it on my cutting boards and now I'm curious about your ceramic coatings! I know that almost everything is food safe when properly cured and was wondering your thoughts about ceramic coats in relation to food safety.
When you commented that the Osmo needed to be fully cured before the ceramic, did you mean the 30 day "complete" cure or the 8 hour cure to touch? Also could you sand to 4K and then do multiple layers of the ceramic base coat to give you that durability that you really want on a dinning table? I understand there is a lot more work involved but if the added base coats of the ceramic brings up that durability I would think my clients would like that.
Hi there, I wish your company will make a wardrobe with live edge epoxy doors. Similar to the cabinet you make last time. Congratulations to you, I'm proud of your products.
I was doing a kitchen that was a full gloss, kept having issues with it gaining a terrible amount of static while sanding. Tack clothes wouldn't take it away so I ended up getting dryer sheets worked marvels. Tutorial videos are always nice. Thanks Guys
Can I use that same finish on a table that I already finished with stain and polyurethane ??? Thanks and I am super impressed by your talents!!! Paul B
Very very educational video this week. Loved it. I will excuse the 0% of Brad in this weeks video because Charlie’s words of wisdom were so powerful and wise. He is a big boy now!
I been using Osmo for about a year now , pretty good results . I'm always most interested in seeing the difference in a table finished with Osmo and your ceramics stuff compared to say a traditional conversion varnish sprayed on . then after 6 month of use ...
Excellent work and teaching. Question: if I have an open grain wood like oak or walnut, how do I factor in grain filling (with aqua coat or something similar)?
Two questions. First, how much surface area will the 10ml ceramic bottle cover? Just trying to figure how much I would actually need for a project. Second, do these guys ever post discount codes for their website??
I’m using both the extra thin and polyx for an epoxy slab bathroom vanity. I have one coat of each on but was wondering if you’ve ever added another coat of extra thin on top of the polyx? I’m so concerned with moisture issues with this piece being in a bathroom, just thinking the more I can close the pores throughout, the safer it may be? Always appreciate the videos guys.
Hi there; I want to buy a Mirka Deros to sand my epoxy work. There are two options in front of me, which one I choose will give me a better performance and result. Mirka Deros orbit 5.0 or Mirka Deros orbit 2.5?
What speed is your sander on when you're applying the osmo? I'm trying to figure out which buffer/polisher to buy, would it make sense to buy a variable speed polisher, then start buffing on a slow speed, working your way up to a fast speed?
@@BlackForestWoodCo Ive tried everything and keep getting streaks in my epoxy, so im going try your method with the Osmo, ill bet that helps. Thnks again.
Just awesome! Need to refinish two tables in the next few months and I will be following this process. One question: when doing a larger surface and you need to overlap your ceramic 2'x2' spots, do you just overlap slightly with no worries? Any tips?
Thanks for the video. Quick question, if you’re applying some sort of UV protection oil, would you apply that after the Ceramic or before? The other question is can you still feel all the grain after the application?
Two more questions: up to what grit would you sand a black walnut table and how many coats of thin Osmo would you use? Thanks again for the great video
Thank You for the more detail videos. Why do you use Osmo oil that is not water proof instead of Odie's oil or Rubio Monocoat which are water proof and Rubio is very hard by itself.
Neither Odie’s oil or Rubio are waterproof. I would say Rubio and Osmo are quite similar with comparable durability. Odie’s oil is in a different class as it is more similar to a beeswax as it doesn’t dry hard and needs constant maintenance. We used to use Odie’s and it resulted in countless warranty callbacks after 6 months to a year. We recommend people to steer clear of Odie’s. Great for cutting boards but not at all a furniture finish.
I think you see more dust on the 4000 side because there aren’t any pores but enough for dust to hide in so it just glides across. The dust on the 320 has pores to fit into and get stuck in.
Nice video’s as always, maybe a tip for erveryone. If you sanding the steps may not more than 100 grid between every step👍🏻 than it will shine like glass...
Great video! Do you have a video on how to finish a bigger piece? You mention no more then 2’x2’ so how do you manage applying the ceramic equally across a 6 ft table?
Great vid thanks! Could one apply a first coat of 1101 at 320 and then continue to 4000 grit to achieve the brighter finish while still improving the protective benefit from the penetration of the first osmo 1101 application?
Getting ready to order these products & finish a walnut table but before I do I would like to know if you are waiting the full 30 day cure time for the Osmo before applying the ceramic coating?
Nice tutorial..appreciate the tips. Quick question...can you just apply the ceramic coating to the epoxy without putting the osmo on the epoxy first, say just to use as an epoxy protector?
That was one of the best finishing tutorials I have seen on youtube! Thank you. Will you wait the 30 day official cure time before delivering or packaging a piece?
What does it mean when you say you need to buff "for a long time"? "Or when you think you buffed enough, your half way there". I got these products based on your amazing work and am thinking that I might not be buffing enough. Any general guidance you can give would be great. Thanks
So can you compromise and meet in the middle and sand to something like 800 grit or a little more and it won't be as sensitive as the 4000 grit but will also have a more detailed look than the 350 grit? Also love your content! Keep it up! 🇨🇦
You asked about static charge and dust. Static electricity is caused by friction. Any two dissimilar surfaces being rubbed together will generate an uneven distribution of electrons (which is what electricity really is) based on what those two surfaces are. Without discharging the surface any dust will deposit itself onto the surface as the stored electrons on the surface realign themselves with the air carrying the dust. This is also why people who work on electronics wear grounding clips to prevent electrical charges building up on their clothing and their body simply by moving their hands and body while working. You can discharge free-electrons by placing something like a grounding mat and connecting it with the ground pin in any electrical outlet (which is used to discharge any electricity safely to ground). You can also use metal tables or really anything that is good for conducting electricity to remove free-electrons. P.S. Lightening is static electricity as well. It is caused when air rubs against the ground and deposits excess electrons on the ground. Dry air acts as a better insulator than moist air which is why lightening in dry climates is much more spectacular than in wet climates. When the ground and the atmosphere equalizes itself ... the movement of electrons is what lightening actually is.
Really good info! Does the Osmo amber over time as an epoxy would? Also, We do a lot of polished concrete surfaces, and have begun mixing with wood. Picture a concrete river rather than epoxy. Is the Osmo suitable for concrete? We typically go to 1500 grit if using an acrylic and beeswax finish, but have to stop at 400 grit max to get any severely thinned polyurethane to grab, then it does not hold well over time. Thanks!
Nice video covering finishes, do you ever tint the finish or just stick with clear. I thought Charlie was the favorite son, Jo the goofy one, Hailey the patient one doing great camera work, and Dylan the one trying not to laugh and explain - show products with special appearances by Brad.
I'm making a custom table for my motor yacht, can I use this same process for the table.? It's NOT exposed to weather, but in a marine environment I question the durability of this type finish.. The table is about 2 foot by 3 foot, and in the galley, so it does get water glasses and pots and pans on it..
