If you want to know how each method effects strength. The methods where you cut right into the carbon will impact your strength a fair amount. Almost all the strength in CFRP are from the fibers and the matrix prevents fiber buckling and maintains stress distribution. By sanding into the fibers you’re basically creating stress concentrations along the fibers where certain fibers are much thinner than others. If you want to maintain integrity of the part and optimize strength, begin with a top coat and then sand down. Again use a rotating assembly to maintain an even coat and reduce stress concentrations. Try to keep aeration of the epoxy low as well. Bubbles will create stress concentrations.
I believe the best clear coat on the market is the kind not spilled :) thanks for showing everything for real and not just a very pristine video in which everything always goes as planned please if you can make a video about all the mistakes you did on composite work over the years so people like me can use your experience and not do the same mistake, I am really happy to see you back up and running in youtube again dear Matthieu keep up the great work with best wishes for you
haha good eye for detail, decided to include it while editing the video. Thanks for the kind words! It's been on my mind to do a video where everything goes wrong :D to be followed ;)
Great video, and the colors are great too, if that is what you want for your application. I've found using the maroon colored 3M pads, by hand, makes a nice matte finish on glossy parts.
Great Tutorial👍🏻 All the finishes are looking good. Also the green one. I work on carbon parts for a RC plane. Thinking about a matte finish for these parts. A nice matte finish seems to be almost Ire tricky than a glossy one. Will come up soon with videos about the final look of these parts.
Hi, thank you for this informative video ! How much better would a Pull Winded or Braided tube would perform in torsion compared to a Roll Wrapped ? Regards
Hello Matthieu, awesome video. I am currently struggling with space in my workshop and want to make something similar to your spray booth, looks really interesting. Can you please explain how it works, is it custom or ready made product? Thanks in advance.
Hello, thank you for your valuable information. Do you have carbon fiber drone body and propeller videos? I'm thinking of making a propeller and a drone body, it would be great if you have such a work.
whenever I try to sand epoxy directly, im alwayssss left with scratch marks no matter how many grits I use or how much I sand with each grit. Is this what the topcoat is for, is it easier to sand? Or am I just not good at what im doing
Absolutely fabulous! You mentioned something about applying gelcoat afterwards, in one of the other comments. I always thought gelcoat was a polyester type product, and would not work with epoxy. What gelcoat do you use?
Easy Composites has a product called "GC50" which is compatible with Epoxy resin if I'm correct! I personally dont like gelcoats as they add weight and it's hard to control if everything goes well under vacuum :)
I like the color finish. Would love to see more examples of pigmented carbon. Do you think you could get good results by spraying candy colored gelcoat into a mold?
is it just glare with clear or you used transparent color because I think I saw a liquid pigment you added if I am not mistaken thanks for all the information
Maybe a dumb question or possible one that has already been asked but if your cast product is found to be to thick is it possible to sand through or past one ply let’s say without an issue? The reason I ask is because I ordered a piece of roll wrapped carbon fiber and I over estimates how thick the wall thickness wound need to be for the project I’m working on. My piece is just 12” long and I thought about running it in my wood lathe (taking it down by sanding not tooling) do a thinner dimension. I’m the end I’m not concerned about esthetics as far as seeing consistent Fabre weaves and such I just want to cut the weight down. Is this a bad idea. I’d likely bring it down maybe an 1/8” in wall thickness in the end. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Will be hard to get good aestetics if you need to remove that much, each layers of carbon should be about 0.2mm which isn't a lot... You might remove a bit more a'd apply a new layer on top for aestetics in the end?
might be interesting indeed! The tubes here weren't made with same thicknesses so might be hard to compare. But thanks for your insights, might be interesting for a future video!
@@MatthieuLibeert I think we sometimes lose sight of what making things in Carbon is all about, which is primarily lightness. However given certain applications customers want a 'look' rather than lightness. Shiny carbon bits being the focus instead of lightness.
it's a Hamach 0.8 nozzle that I use. like mentioned in the tutorial, the higher you go in price and the more educated you are in spraypainting the better the result. It's all about settings. not saying this is the best spraygun but it works for me, with results seen in this tutorial.
