Useful demonstration. I would have thought a drip bead above window and door opening would be good as water could run down insid=ed the top of the corner profiles.
Im having real trouble with the stainless spax screws mentioned here. Im driving them in using a makita impact driver with a T15 bit - but pretty much every board I get one that rounds off the screw head leaving me to have to hammer it in the last few millimetres. I was using an impact bit and thought it may be that causing the problem so i switched to a standard one but the problem persists. I wondered if there's something im missing? they're eye wateringly expensive these screws - I wasnt expecting to encounter such an issue.
Interesting that you haven't shown any actual cutting of the boards. What saws/blades would you use and how messy is the cutting, [Dust]? There's obviously going to be situations that require a rip cut. All of your pre cuts were VERY convenient!
If you need to ask that question, you shouldn't be doing this... He did actually say how it was ripped down in the video too. Cuts are ALWAYS "VERY convenient" if you think about your setting out. Maybe you should be applying your namesake to your comment....
@@nicolaspyke758 Alright simpleton, calm down. The irony is that I was simply commenting on the overly critical statement and injecting a bit of logic in to the nonsense written. You however are just calling me "a prick"..... which makes you...... a prick. LMAO
Edges and joints from what I've seen on other vids, northern plastics have less well produced but more informative videos.... But I don't have a clue which is why I'm watching!