What I love about your approach is how you will make templates, jigs and rods to help plan out the entire job. So instead of just starting, getting near the end and discovering something you hadn’t thought about, the whole thing is straightforward. Investment of time up front but slow is smooth and smooth is fast!
@robin, can you please do a simple video on marking wood? I.e. getting a size with a tape measure, then transferring this onto a piece of timber for cutting? This seems like an easy thing to do, but I would be interested to see your marking technique with a pencil etc. thanks!
Nice job! Here in Norway where almost everything is clad, they want butt joints on the corners, and I guess the argument is that you leave butt joints on all the door and window reveals, so why not the external corners? They also want us to laser in all the nail lines up to above head height! Most of the cladding is like a rough sawn face (planed on the back, oddly) and the nails are round heads and left flush, so you have to use a nail gun set light, and then tap them home with a hammer for that perfect flush finish. Every days a school day for me here mate ;-)
when doing mitred corners , a method I've used previously to produce efficient perfect mitres, is to butt together the acute mitre points together with both boards flat . Then run masking tape down where the two points meet. The tape effectively becomes a "hinge" for the mitre to come together when turned over and folded together after a bead of glue is run (the tape contains the glue squeeze out on the face) , before finally pinning together. Keep up the great content , I love how you and Ed approach your craft
Lovely work Robin. I noticed the cladding above the sliding doors wasn’t vented at the door head. Would it not need a ventilation strip like at ground level?
My late father was a plumber, I have lots of respect for you all!! many Plumbers including my late Dad are really good at carpentry!! thank you for watching and commenting!
Nice ...i would leave the corner trims out side not in garage ..at least that way there weathered and would match same colouring of wood if added after 👍
I am looking at cladding a 6ft fence in tongue and grooved cladding, I noticedJackson's fencing recommends: "Stainless Steel 1kg Pack 50mm (2") Nails Annular Ring Shank, 2.65mm Gauge" for it's closeboarding cladding but I would like the nails to be less visible if possible. Do you think using stainless steel brads from a nail gun, (or another nail type?), would be less noticeable? Can you please recommend a discrete nail type head that should do the job. I love the attention to detail you give to all your jobs. Inspirational construction! Many thanks
Amazing work on those reveals and mitres, I couldn’t even have that much attention to detail on my own work! I got that same cladding profile but thought it was intended for hidden fixing otherwise I thought there were cheaper profile for face fixing.
Hi Scott, yep it can be secret fixed with some care, personally I like a double fixing on each batten, also with the secret fixing to start in the centre like I demonstrate in the video is not possible unless you create a loose tongue for the centre section!!
Great video, just wondering if 18g pins are suitable for exterior cladding. I've always used stainless steel trim head screws for any exterior cladding over 15mm thick.
Hey Rob, I thoroughly enjoy your videos & dedication to sharing good trade principles. I am considering doing a similar type of vertical cladding on my old victorian property patio entrance. i am considering using scaffold boards, its tall but relatively small space. I'd really appreciate a few hints/tips from a master :)
Hi Robin, lovely Sunday morning treat watching you (and Ed) doing such a wonderful job cladding, another class piece of work... you may have mentioned but will the cladding silver down over time? The job looks utterly fantastic and the knowledge learnt is invaluable. thank you so much for your time and effort, an utter joy.
when you built the mitred section on the bench you could have put offcuts of batten in the angle to hold it square and correctly positioned they would go between the horizontal battens
Hi Robin, as a fellow carpenter I wanted to ask, are those 18g nails you're using and if so, are you confident they're strong enough to resist walking out and the movement of the timber throughout the seasons? Cheers
A great video and series once again Robin. Just an additional question to pick your brains, what are your thoughts on the cement based cladding options compared to what you've used here.? I've a timber framed garage project upcoming and I'm at odds on what could be best. Opinions from your viewers would be also welcome. Thank you.
Inspiring workmanship as always, can I ask if any ventilation is needed behind the cladding? I originally thought the cross battens would allow for this but they look closed at the top and bottom.
Robin ....question if you had to fit the external wood corner trim .....would it be glued on both internal surfaces or does the same rule apply if you was fitting for example plastic external mouldings to facia , would only apply glue to one side only to compensate for expansion ?
When you install the revel do you push it up against the window frame? or do you leave a small gap for expansion,and put window expansion tape to seal it Genuine question as I have seen it done both ways
Hi, amazing attention to detail. I notice that you shoot 2 pins through the face of the cladding. Would you ever secret nail through the back of the groove to hide the fixings?
Hi and thanks for your reply. I'm keen to hear your views on this and have watched again but cannot find the section in this video. Do you have the time in the video when you explained this? Thanks again @@ukconstruction
re; the 15 degree cut. If I want to do horizontal overlapping cladding/siding, does each horizontal board get cut/ripped full length, with a 15 degree angle too?
@@ukconstruction Im not talking about buying "cladding boards". If I rip my own boards or use other boards not meant as cladding... Do I cut the long downward side at 15 degrees on every board?
18:38 Question- you start in the middle of the windows to have both side of the window even but then on rhe samw wall is second window how you deal with that as you can’t start from middle of the second window again Thank you
Hi Robin What timber are you using to make the reveals?? Is it cut down from the cladding or do the suppliers supply them separately?? Thanks in advance Darren
Robin, let me take tha bloody satellite dish down for you, who on earth fitted it to the wooden soffit?!! Love the thermal wood, I'm planning horizontal cladding, but lots of your tips and expert techniques will still apply.
@@ukconstruction most detailing of door and windows I've seen has flashing lapped into the breather sheet to direct water out of the cladding and avoid it pooling on the top of the door or window frame. Maybe I am misunderstanding and I think with the cladding and venting as you mention it would not be an issue but water would sit on the frame top for some time until evaporated wouldn't it? I am looking at cladding for my build (horizontal) and trying to work out what is acceptable to building control. Great vid 😁
It depends on the number of fixings the spacing of the battens etc we are using a 50mm first quality stainless steel brad two on each fixing point and about 400mm between battens so in essence we are over fixing the material this particular cladding can be secret nailed and in that event you would have half the number it is then when a 16g would be essential
So how about that ventilation? It looks like there is no gap for air to exit at the top and also not at the bottom above the window. Can someone elaborate on that?
In that video you explain, but how does it work above the door/window? I'm sure you have it all worked out, but I can't see in this video how the air is let in at the bottom side above the window. Another question about closing the airgaps for insects. You explain the mesh profile at the bottom, but what do you do at the top? I ask because I often struggle with this. I seems to me that there are often openings not so easy to close, which leads to ask, just how meticulous does one need to be?@@ukconstruction
What I don't get is the fixings. What is that 15 gauge Brad nailer. Stainless or not. That would be illegal out here. Not classed as a substantial enough fixing.
Hi Dave, this is a 18 gauge with a 50mm stainless steel brad, we are fixing at 450mm centres and double on each fixing point, so its fairly well engineered and will easily do the job of holding the cladding perfectly
@@ukconstruction If we were putting cladding on like that in Oz. The requirement would be 50mm bullets. Lost heads to you. I have several 18 gauge nailers. Never used them on anything more than internal trim. If you think back to what you would have used in the days of hammers. Minimum of an 1 1/2 Oval. Probably actually a lost head. So just because it is a gun. How do we drop to a tiny brad from a solid nail. You try and remove timber nailed with lost heads. Compared to 18 gauge pins. You can pull the latter off with bare hands. Does the manufacturer have a minimum nailing requirement. I have never read one that mentions brads. Your work is always superb. Attention to detail, second to none. But lost on 18 gauge trim nails used on external cladding.
Robin, from a fellow anal carpenter, I am using Thermowood T&G Cladding on my Summer House, they recommend 2.5mm annular ring nails face nailed, would you be so kind as to tell me what type of nail and gun you are using, I have the Hitachi 1st Fix and a paslode im65, I don't think either are right for the job!! Thank you.
I have used the IM65 with a 63mm stainless steel brad mostly my counter batten is no more than 450mm centres, if this is your summer house and the material is a standard ex 25mm board then this is perfect, thermowood is really stable and will not move once fitted
@ukconstruction Thank you for taking the time to reply. Yes I've counterbattoned at 450 centres, but have bought 50mm brads, I'll change them to 63mm. Thank you for your guidance 👍