This doorframe was devastated at one time and had been repaired in a real sloppy way. In the video I try to fix it and create a more secure and polished result.
This really helped me out because my gargarge door has sensors for the alarm and I was worried I would have to remove the whole door frame! YOU ARE A LIFE SAVER! :) THANK YOU!!!
I feel like every time I watch your videos I say to myself, "that was a really smart way to do that". You my friend are talented, keep up the great work. Great work always has its rewards.
Don't like when the posters cut the video to finish something up and get back to us(not saying this person did that, but others have). Not sure what difficulty they had. More than likely we'll have that problem and won't know how to address it. Jennies Garage did a great job. Would not have seeing the imperfections if he didn't point them out.
That original fix was hardcore. You did a great job fixing that thing. Way to be!!! Also thank you for keeping the language clean. I like to watch these videos with my young kiddos.
Your video saved me $1200 to replace the whole door frame! I used a hand mitre saw and a speed square to make the diagonal cuts. Wasn't too hard worked well! THANK YOU!
This was a brilliant way to fix this. I have to replace my front because of a slight warp. The knob holes for the new door are precut and in different locations. This is how I fix the frame to line up with my door.
It works amazingly! My husbands grandpa was so surprised how I did it. He said he would’ve bought the whole door frame 😂 the hardest part was getting the door handle out(Stripped screw) took only couple hours
Great repair, thanks for posting it. If you replace those teeny screws that come with the strike plates with 3-4" ones that go into the studs it'll be much harder to have a repeat event.
Every video that I watched the only answer was to replace the whole frame, my garage door will benefit from this type of fix without having to replace the whole door frame. Thanks for the alternative to whole frame replace.
I was not expecting this video to be as funny as it was informative, but wow, I actually had a good smile or chuckle every 30ish seconds. The best lessons are silly ones, that's for sure
Thanks for sharing from France, I am repairing an internal door of a rented house I am in...hopefully I will not be charged if the owner doesn't see the damage/repair for the whole door framing. In my case I had to realize an insert directly in the casing that bear the metal frame.
Jake, always fun just to watch you putting around. You should do another ride video on the trail 90. I've made a few videos on my channel working on a few different 90s. Love em.
I have to say I learned something today on your video ...Thanks ...:)..I have a screen door that the wind caught and it broke the side jam of the hinge side and i was not sure how to fix it ..I know this is 2 different projects ...lol...but i think i picked up some ideas on how to ...thanks again ..
Thanks for posting another quality video, and do you think that you could work on the trail 90 conversion to 125. I would like to see how it goes since I might do something similar to my 1968 cl 90.
When I install door strikers I don't use the little short screws that are in the door knob package. I always use 3 or 4 inch deck screws. They go deep into the door framing and make it harder for anyone to kick the door open in the future.
May seem like a silly question, but, if the angled board was cut short, but needed to be trimmed on the outer edge to make it fit, why not cut off some of the inner edge so that it would sit deeper in the opening? That way, no more wood is wasted than there needs to be... :)
Unreal - I have a very similar problem to solve. Started searching youtube for answers and “bam” my favourite program has got the answer haha:) I need to organise that oscilating saw…
I think it would be stronger if you cut the angle bit the other way so the too and bottom part would hold it in. good job tho love the videos keep it up.
The cuts on the door lining would then taper and be weak at their tips. Getting the right size in lay piece would be a serious faff. Inserting the piece and removing it would be nigh on impossible so you would have to hit the nail on the head first time. It would not look good if you failed to smooth all and paint over well.
Don't forget to reinforce the lock area by installing a 3" or 4" screw in those strike plates and that will make it much harder for someone to kick open the door next time.
Nice ! Also, do you have a video on repairing a solid wood door edge pried open from the outside? Not the strike side. I don’t want the big expense of replacing the door itself if I can help it, I would like to “fancy up” the edge, maybe with a metal corner edge…….. ? I will look among your other videos. Thanks!
This was the first video of yours that I've ever watched. You're a regular comedian aren't ya? haha I enjoyed the humor. THANK YOU for this vid!! My front door has the same jam (not damn) damage. QUESTION: Why did you decide to make the replacement jam piece 400 inches long (give or take 360 inches??? :-) I would think 12" to 14 inches would suffice. Any particular reason? Thanks again for this vid!
Why would you have a screw at the middle? There is nothing to screw it to unless your screw length exceeds the depth of your board, which it doesn't. I'm confused. Top and bottom screw. No problem. It's the middle I have trouble. Is it screwed in at an angle into the wall frame?
nice video! I thought for sure when you were marking the striker holes without the weather strip in place that you would have set the latch sockets too far in. But it seems all is well, good job.
