In this video the first step is to make sure the #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke. Then remove the distributor cap and verify the rotor contact is pointing to the number 6 on the distributors rim. That number 6 is actually identifying the #1 cylinder contact location on the under side of the distributor cap when it is installed on the distributor. The video says the code was P0301. In my Chiltons manual the list of codes only shows P0300 for misfires and the next code P# on the list is is P0315 for crankshaft position sensor. What is missing is higher quality OBD2 readers can read each cylinder by displaying codes P0301 to P0306 or P0308 on V8 engines. Those individual codes identify which cylinder is misfiring. I am not saying that the code guarantees the P# is the the only cause of the misfire becuse there could be more than one cylinder not firing. But a code reader usually will identify the cylinder with the most recorded misfires. You need a good scanner to see the misfires visibly displayed by each cylinders number of misfires. At that point you need to verify that you have good spark at that cylinder and a good injector providing fuel. A frequent overlooked issue is good grounds to the injectors. Use a meter on ohms to check for ground. I don't use a 12 volt test lights on connectors that involve the PCM module circuits. On V6 engines check the ground pin on the spider fuel injector module connector. On V8 engines with individual coils and injectors they are all connected to one common ground. If you have no spark to any of the 6/8 cylinders in may be a bad ground to the engine block. On GM and Chevy there is a ground wire on the engine block near the #1 cylinder. It is hard to get to but make sure there is a good connection there, verify it is not loose or corroded. On V6 engines that ground is in the same location. In a no spark at all cylinders you have to determine where the missing ground is by tracing the circuit. If there isn't a ground problem then start determining if you have a bad coil/coils or on V8s a bad individual coil or injector.
Cool video thanks for filming it Oh and the way I fixed my check engine light... Piece of black electrical tape right over top of it on the clear plastic piece between the gauges and your steering wheel I don't know what that technically called. 😂 It works.
Generally speaking, usually you can replace the distributor cap, and rotor only, and it coud run fine. If the actual distributor has 100,000 plus miles on it you may very well have too replace it.
Good video bud. What you'd be looking for is excessive or single sided wear on the gear , not necessarily NEEDING a whole shebang. I'd also diag diag diag diag, read read read and diag more. THENNN throw (hopefully) less parts lol. And (you're videos playing in background and you just mentioned cap screws) yep- good call lol. But I'd helicoil a stripped cap screw before buying an ENTIRE dizzy. IFFF in someone's case-> it was simply a screw that git torqued further than 13lbft, but 1/2" play left right is still a lot for our trucks.. anyways hope the thread or a new to them forum lead helps. JOIN, also subbed fir ya bud
If u have misfires you should definitely do the fuel pressure test first. There's even a Schrader valve for easy access to test. Easy way to rule out the spider injectors or the fuel pump/filter. And seriously, only buy ac delco/gm parts or part upgrades from performance shops. One sells an aluminum disty cap that never cracks, clean the contacts off and go some more.
What you're feeling when your driving could possibly be your mass airflow sensor My S10 did it for a long time typically at 55mph and 70mph. I unplugged the sensor and it quit. So i put a new sensor in and the problem was solved
I have an 02' Blazer ZR2, no start issue after parking it a few hundred miles back. It was running fine, towed it to my shop, found the coil was grounding out on the ECM. After they replaced the Distributor with a brand new one. New cap, wires & plugs, ECM, Coil, etc. She ran fine for a few hundred miles & now she just started misfiring again. Dying on me, no power, etc. Once I can get her throttled up, she runs smoother but no power. I'm hoping it's the Cap. I ain't dumping no more money into this thing. This last repair cost me $1200 for the stuff mentioned above a few hundred miles ago. I rarely drive it & when I do, it's just to the store or I idle it back in the woods where I live. It just Went from running perfect to like it's missing on 2 cylinders while idling at a red light. One thing after another. Plus I just had a $2200 HD Tranny Rebuild on her.
I changed everything. I even put in a new transmission because I destroyed the old one by driving it with the check engine light flashing . The misfire will cause the TCC lock up to burn the transmission up
Ok so I have a problem and please help me out with this it's an 03 4.3 same as the video it was flashing in the summer but now anytime it's below 40 nothing no flash but it still stays on I think I have the same problem as you, what did you do to fix it just replace everything? Mine has 140k and I wanna keep it for a couple more years
Same here had my transmission rebuilt. caused by an alarm issue fixed it by replacing the whole ignition harness to the key cylinder all transmission codes were gone now. and I have a P0300 code leading from a valve cover gasket leak. Found oil on the threads of the spark plug. changed spider injector also and fuel relations if I go pass anyone over 80 with half tank of gas it will flash full tank or anything full to 3/4 of gas at 70-75mph will flash. My truck is a 2002 s10 xtreme 4.3 V6 2WD. I’m attempting to do valve and head gasket or intake manifold to plenum
Mine runs fine then out of the blue it misfires an loads up I'll shut it off for a bit start it then runs fine. Then does it again either after a bit or next day. I don't get it I put all new plugs wires cap an rotor.
It runs better now I still have one misfire on cylinder two, have not been able to figure out what is causing the cylinder two misfire. But it did fix all the other misfires.
@@alfredomendez5210 I have 2000 Chevy Blazer 4.3 random or multiple misfire has alway been the Distributor Cap. It’s located in a crappy place & gets moisture in it. I’ve changed D cap 3 times in 3 years, fixed it every time. Now I just clean the haze off the old cap & switch them out. Easy fix
OK, actually watched it. About 24 mins in you mention limp mode and Saud 85mph 3k rom..NOT LIMP. Limp can be caused by a few things ALL of which will give you 2nd gear , reverse. And can manual 3rd. You'll have no 1st or overdrive. Either way, your not cruising 3k at 85mph with a stock rear end. Even my G80s won't do NEAR that. Now, I'll go back and see what autozones 12$ scan tool tells yall but first guess if we were on a phone call and you were 1000% sure you'd narrowed it down to transmission would be for you to check pin E for 12v on the passenger side trans plug (round) powers ALL the 4l60 on/off solenoids including TCC. But high rev at 85mph (and 3k is not high btw; especially under obvious load at that high of soeed, sounds like high gear to me!) LOL but OK, I'll watch snd see what you figure out as there's too many questions for me at this point MD no real diag yet other than "my cap is crap" lol
*14min, and lol just heard "their scanner won't clear " what they prob Saud was "were not ALLOWED to clear " as even a 8$ scanner has clear ability and I've heard those shi*tholes say that before. In those instances, I simply asked to take the scanner myself to the lot which they usually do no questions if ypu don't look like a thug. And I just heard "no codes" HOORAY! good job bud. Oh-- DO...ABSOLUTELY DOOO upgrade to MPFI and ditch the poppets
