Pulled out the old kyosho fw05r during lockdown. I took apart and gave the engine a clean as it was almost seized, but didn't pay much attention to the carb. Was having heaps of trouble getting the engine to start/run consistent and after watching this video, i recleaned the carb better and noticed the low speed needle's oring was split. I replaced that with an old one I had lying around and now it runs as good as it ever did. (It sat in a box without running for 6-7 years) I also just 'flushed' the needles without counting turns and it was pretty close to spot on. Thanks mate
Bug!! You the man! I have a 3.3 TMaxx and had this going on with it. Just needed a little brake clean on the needles and carb. This video was very helpful! Cheers from Indiana ✌️
So I have a 2024 jato 3.3 it’s getting pressure the glo plug is good and the gas line and pressurizing lines are in the right location yet the carb is t taking any gas. When I force feed it gas it wast to start but won’t die to the fact I already burned the gas in the motor
I have a question, when re assembling the carb, does the fuel inlet nipple need to line directly up with the holes on the high speed needle housing? I was working on my carb the other day, as the engine as soon as it started went full throttle and the servos were off, the idle gap was at about .5mm, and I had to find the issue. When I took that hsn housing off, I found some clogging, and when I reassembled it nitro sprayed into my damn eye! So it was as if the fuel was building up at the HSN area, and as if it couldn’t pass down the needle housing. Help!!
Hey man sorry for the very late reply it takes me a bit to get back to comments sometimes but no it doesn't matter the position of the position of the fuel and wet nipple it's like a banjo fitting you can put in any possession you want. Check out Nitro RC enthusiasts on Facebook it's easier to get help by posting a video or picture of the problem. Im an admin in the group see you there!
@@thebug4046 thanks, and I’ll check that out! I’d unsubbed from FB years ago due to it creating nothing but problems. So just a while back I created one just for R/C under a pseudonym. Appreciate you getting back to me! Now I don’t think my carb is broken, I will dig deeper!
How many teeth on the clutch bell? And do you have to use the traxxas one to use the trx 15 in an rc10gt?? Great vids...took your recommendation and got two trx 15s
It looks like the traxxas stuff has beefier shoes with springs ect. But the lowest teeth count I can find is like 19 or 20 tooth on the traxxas stuff. Prob cuz the tires are so huge they need more torque?
Sorry for the late reply and they are disconnected it was an original AE part I believe the same as a Ford fuel filter for a carburetor im not sure witch one
Hi I been on my nitro and I noticed when I drive it and bring it back the High speed needle turns in by it self it’s like it’s loose so you know why it’s doing that it’s really odd never happen to me before
My car wont prime , it's brand new and I've tried all the tips , I've even tried to flood it on purpose by opening up the low end screw and blown through the exhaust hose to check for fuel tank leak's ,I'm stumped any ideas ?
Go on Facebook and join my group nitro/diesel/gas rc and more answer the 2 question I will let you in post a video about it that's the best way to help you
One thing that can help is if you prime your car with the throttle all the way open. That usually helps, and also make sure that both tubes are connected where they need to go and are snug.
Take the carb off, and spray carb cleaner through the removed low speed needle spot, and the high speed needle orifice. Then follow up with a rubber tipped blow gun to blow it out. Fuel can harden in the small spots and not let any fuel into the engine. Also make sure your glow plug ignitor is fully charged. Remove the glow plug and stick it into the ignitor it should glow orange quickly
Hello, Please can you help me! I have the same carburettor as the one in this video on my .15 pro engine.. but the throttle is stuck internally and will not move.. can you tell me or do a video on how to take this carburettor apart please ! I need to free up the component..
I will make a video about how to disassemble that carburetor at a later date but what you can do is get yourself a can of non coronated brake parts cleaner or even some nightrail fuel or denatured alcohol and let it soak and I will eat the varnish and allow the carburetor to move freely again good luck
thebug 404 ... THANKYOU!, I will try this overnight tonight and see how it goes..., I see you mentioned the SH .18 Carbs fit.. where can I buy one of these? Many thanks !
@@callumatkinson9032 Hey brother no problem And the SH18 carburetor you can get them off eBay or Amazon they're about $35 make sure it's the correct one for your application because they are available in both slide and rotary San tastic carburetor that's exactly what I run with my pro 15 And I'm sure if you have seen my other videos of me driving that truck you will see how easy and well it performs and tunes
thebug 404 big big help thank you!, I have to replace the 2 bearings in my pro 15 but they are so so rusty and so so stuck! Any other tips to get them out as I’ve tried blowtorching but they are not budging at all!
@@callumatkinson9032 Well my friend you have come to the right place if you search through my videos I actually have Video replacing the bearings in my pro 15 and how to do it it's very easy They might be kind of far down so you can have to search a little bit
I bet. Also ppl forget or what ever it is but ppl dont use process of elmantion to find the problem source. An i seen you also cut a hi-tech 4 way steering horn an cut a ear off just like ove done too lol.
@@ronniewilliz153 Well that's the thing is you gotta work with what you got and RC stuff is really expensive here My hobby shop sells nothing but tracks is so I don't even bother going there anymore So and I want specific parts I have to wait for them to come in in the mail It's all about being creative
@@thebug4046 yessir being creative an making what you have work is the real challange i think anyways. Anyine can go out an buy stuff an bilt it on but if you make something work for your application is even better then buying stuff an bolting it on in my book anyways.
Join my Facebook group and post a video Nitro/Diesel/gas rc and more im the owner and admin be sure to answer the questions about how we talked on RU-vid i will add you and get you what you need
@@WhipReviews For whatever I can't share a link but if you just type it in how I spelled it exactly like that you will find it and when you add or I add you just go Hey I'm new here this is my issue and then post a video of the problem that you're having it's a very supportive group it's full of really good people there's no bullshit
@@redraider7614 It's very difficult to imagine this whole thing over taxed so go to my Facebook group nitro/diesel/gas rc and more Answer the 2 questions and I will accept you not when you can post videos or pictures of what your problem is
@@redraider7614 If the engine'll set rich then yes it will spray fuel and oil from the exhaust its normal with these they urged the 2 stroke engine The like I said go and join my group
you seem to know your stuff, can you help me out please. my engine starts ok, and idles, but after some time, im getting air bubbles out the carb, pushing back into the fuel line, and cutting the engine out. any idea's ?
Sounds like a fuel leek sum where what you can do Is go to Facebook and join the nitro rc enthusiast's group I'm in there you can post pictures and videos of the things you're having problems with makes it easier
@@thebug4046 yeah, I suspected an air leak somewhere, pulling in thru the crank bearings or the carb, I don't know how to find out. I'm not on FB, but thanks for the info, Mr bug
Check your fuel line's check to make sure your high speed needle isn't loose or that the O rings and your high speed needle to bark dried out the best thing I can suggest doing is going on Facebook and joining nitro RC enthusiast's group I'm in there as admin and post a video of the problem it's easier that way It's very difficult to diagnose an issue overtaxed
@@thebug4046 No! That's i donth need. Like riiiiiii/ wiiiiii. U know thats 2,5 CC Vintage Go hot in Here 2. Bat somthime runn cold too' much. Brive in @ the wrong place & oud 2. The caburator'e very defekt!. That's smoll sacker Drive be'fore in one 1:10 4wd 2 Speed very Well
Oh' the! Caburator'e i know & know the Sound of IT my 2,5 CC come over If from Open Bolt too' Close Like hell Sound, Name: mager very mutch neben Luft too' much.
