How To Fix An Electric Leaf Blower/Vacuum 

Another $70 saved by a youtuber because you shared your knowledge. Thanks Joby. My Black and Decker got pulled from the trash because of you.

Saved myself the cost of repairing my old but hardly used Flymo Powervac 3000. I removed the same switch as you described, which was located in the external air blowing tube. Didn’t even need to remove the motor. Fantastic! Thank you so much!

Nicely done. I did the above to my none working $3 second hand Stihl (not working). It now would blow the roof off a house!

Dropped my blower and it stopped working. Took it apart and inspected everything but still wouldn't run. After watching your video all the way through (first time I looked at it I stopped because it didn't seem applicable to my situation), I focused on the safety switch. It was fine, but the little plastic piece on the attachment that covers the fan that is necessary to depress the switch, had broken off. Stuck a toothpick into the hole to keep the switch depressed and it's working again. Thanks for posting!

Outstanding. I have a toro 51599. The safety switch was the problem. I redirected just like you showed (color of the cords was different on my model but concept the same) and it works. The landfill ain't getting my blower yet! Thanks for posting this.

Thanks for posting. The method explained in the latter half of the clip worked. We almost tossed the blower because the repair shops advised it wasn't worth the cost of repair.

I actually fixed my third one tonight by bypassing the interlock switch. It really works. I fixed a Toro Super Blower (the red one). It has 2 lines going into the interlock and 2 coming out. It was a little trial and error, but it works like new again! It had been left out the rain (4 days of rain). I let it dry a couple weeks and discovered it was no longer working. FIXED !

For all with 51599 or similar models know that you have to have the blade cover on to push in the pin and complete the circuit- so make sure you try putting that on before unneccesarily removing and bypassing the interlocker like I did.

My Toro leaf blower didn't have this specific problem, but once I opened it up, I DID notice that one of the springs which holds one of the two brushes against the commutator on the motor popped off. All I had to do was grab a pair of pliers and "reseat" the spring against the brush. It works just fine now. The symptom I had was the motor cut out just like the power was cut off (there was no burning smell, straining, whining or anything like that). Good luck!

I had the same exact leaf blower & problem. I simply took it apart and pushed on the interlock switch a few times and bingo the blower worked. Seems that the interlock switch can get stuck and by pushing on the switch (which is on some sort of spring) it loosens it and then it works.

Thank you for sharing this awesome video. It has 2 lines going into the interlock and 2 coming out. It was a trial and error but it works now !

I have the toro 51619 and it was very similar. It was a bad safety switch on the bottom just like this video, but the newer version has 4 poles on the switch. 2 smaller black wires with crimp spade connectors, that run to the motor and 2 wires that come out of the main power wire (a white and a black that are solder and heat shrinked to the switch). If one was so inclined, they could cut all the wires off the switch. Then, take the thicker hot white and pair it to one of the smaller black wires running to the motor, then the thicker ground black wire to the other small wire running to the motor. Secure everything and button the case back up. It would likely power right back on no problems. I get that they have to put a safety switch on there, so no one sticks their hand in the impeller and sues them, but they should use a better quality part that does not break after 2 seasons of use. Good luck getting your blower back in the game.

My problem appears to be a bearing is missing at the opposite end of the motor and the shaft is now sloppy and banging into the motor frame as it spins. I can’t find any evidence of it in the blower body - it probably just fell out the cooling slots.

OK this was pretty good. My problem was slightly different, but the process to fix is was exactly the same. Thanks for sharing!

As you must have figured out, the "Interlock Switch" was there to prevent operation if the bottom insert screen is removed--thus protecting the user from sticking their hand into the rotating impeller. I just today learned my B&D, BV1000 has a bad interlock switch, so I bypassed it. B&D would not like it, but the15 year old unit cost over $60 and I want to keep using it--it does a good job. When you first tried the blower, the video shows you did so without installing the screen and I knew it would not work in that state. The interlock switch on my unit was fried. It transfers a lot of current to the motor, and the switch appears as a cheapo variety doomed to failure. I'm sure many BV1000s have been trashed for it alone.

I have a Remington electric blower/vac. Same kind of setup. How did you open the case? I removed All the screws but it just doesn’t want to break apart. Any suggestions?

Thanks for this video. I also got my Toro 51573 running again after cutting out the safety interlock. Now, what are the risks involved with removing this from the circuit? If the motor overloads will it just start smoking before it finally frys?

lol hey why not put the bottom cover on because it wont turn on with it removed

I heard a pop and the vacuum stopped sucking. Is this something I can fix using the method you've displayed? Also, I notice you said you connected the blue and black wires. Is there something further that I need to do after connecting them? Should I connect them to something else?

Did this with my Toro super electric blower model 51592. Gotta admit, taking out that thing (I think it regulates the electrcity) actually works. Big question......is it safe???? How long can you run without it before the motor burns out?????. Any idea. At least it extended my blower for another year.

That interlock switch is to make sure the guard is on so you don't put you hand into the impeller.

So you ripped out the capacitor

I'm sure you now realize there was probably nothing wrong with your safety switch. If you would have put the cover back on, it would have ran the first time. My issue is a massive vibration that loosens the cover therefore turning off the unit. Your video helped me figure out why it was dying. Now I just need to figure out why it is vibrating

Hi can anyone recommend where I can get a replacement impellor for my powerbase garden / vac BDG 1800 w tried everywhere without success thankyou.

Mine is a 51621 and it will no longer turn off! I have to disconnect the cord for it to stop. I've removed all the screws, but can't quite get the two sides apart. Is there a trick to it?

Re-check the electrical connections you made to bypass the interlock switch. Look (and smell) for anything burned. Your motor could be shot but check the simple stuff first.

That s my reasoning exactly what are you going to do break it I love it

yes fix it i have 3 lawnmowers one weed eater and a leaf blower that some body dumped out and i took home and fixed

my toro leaf blower just stopped working one day so i took it apart...it looks identical to the one in your video...i did exactly what you did and it still doesn't work...the on/off switch works and so does the plugin....i guess my motor is shot?

on mine, the motor works fine but the turbo blade will not fully engage. The clutch maybe???

Hey, I have an electric WORX WG545 blower that stops blowing about 2 seconds after inserting in any new battery and pushing the ON switch. It does this every single time, but blows strong for a moment, then just dies. Does anyone know about this issue?

thank you I fallowed exactly and works very well, thank you

I could not get the case off. I took out all the screws. There are a couple place where I'd expect screws to be but when I look in those two holes, there is no philips head screw head.

I have this problem and am attempting to fix but some of the chassis screws are rusted and won't move. I'm afraid to strip them. Any suggestions here and what to do if they are stripped?

Im looking into this video not to learn to repair it but to make ot into a mini electric turbo for pit bike hahahahaha

Thanks, now I know how to fix my blower!

cool video brother

Absolutely!

Watched here in 2020 # rockOn

That's probably the issue. Some vacs have extremely easy access to the fan. It should look like a squirrel cage. You will most likely find something lodged in there from last season.

Hope you don't end up with hard spots on the armature

How do you get the casing off

good job , thanks

Did you whistle “you don’t know what you got till it’s gone?” 2:08

Why is the casing so hard to get off?

passing a safty switch doesnt fix anything just opened a padoras box on what can go wrong ...use an external gfi for safty with this rewire

Jimney Crickets! Take the motor out! Finally!

hahahahahahaaa 2:08 you dont know what you got till its gone....

2:09

Why a draw sTrinG if iT is electric❓❓❓

You don't know what you got till its gone.