Acetone has a much lower flash point and dries much quicker than xylene. I would not call acetone a substitute for xylene but a low VOC alternative solvent. Acetone can be used as a cleaner for most solvent based acrylic cure and seals however if cleaning pumps or sprayers be aware it will dissolve rubber hoses and seals that may be compatible with xylene but not acetone. If you have a sprayer or pump that is compatible with acetone, acetone can be used to clean but it should be drained and left open to dry. Acetone with continuous contact will soften seals and hoses even those tolerant of acetone. ChemMasters -A, AIM and Superseal products use acetone as one of the carrier solvents in what is usually a solvent blend package. If you have any additional questions, you can give us a call at 800-486-7866 and select the technical department or email us at info@chemmasters.net!
Just what I needed to know. I felt like xylene might help but I needed confirmation. I think that they made every mistake on my stamped and stained concrete.
@@kalittle22 A 3/8” nap roller is all that is necessary. Deeper naps carry more material but do not help significantly on a deeper pattern. It may be necessary to hit some deep areas with roller 45 degrees to surface. Tape a chip brush to the handle this can be helpful to pull material out of low areas. If you have any additional questions, you can call our office at (800) 486-7866 for our Technical Department!
Hi - Charles, you can give us a call at 800-486-7866 or email us at info@chemmasters.net and someone in our technical department will assist you with your question.
I have one particular stamped concrete patio my company did. No matter what temperature, how dry, how low humidity, it seems there's always white cloudy spots all over it. This is the only patio we've had this reoccurring problem on. Is there a product other than xylene you can recommend? We've tried xylene, still same problem. Had the sealer sandblasted off and resealed. Same problem. Tried everything. Any advice on a product for unusual circumstances? I wish I could send pictures to show you the problem.
Hi - Debbie, we are sorry to hear this project is giving you trouble. You can send images of the job to info@chemmasters.net and someone from our technical department can help you! You can also call us at 800-486-7866 and select the option for technical.
My stamped driveway is 17 years old. It was colored using the powder method then sealed. It is in pretty decent condition but I'd like to "spiff it up". After 17 years is all the sealer gone? What can I use to brighten it up? Nice video, straight to the point!
Thank you for contacting ChemMasters! Pressure wash with water to clean, do not use extraordinary chemicals. Do not be too aggressive with the pressure washer as stripes will show. A garden hose and long handle deck brush is also acceptable for cleaning. If you have oil or rust spots that need special attention, limit the extra cleaning to those areas and email us at info@chemmasters.net for a detailed tech sheet on taking care of them. The concrete should dry 24 hours before applying your sealer. Two sealer options we recommend for this scenario are Certi-Vex AC 1315, a good high gloss acrylic sealer that will provide a “wet look” to the concrete and Certi-Vex AC 1315 Satin, a low gloss “wet look” sealer. Seal on a day that solvents would dry slower - cool temperatures, overcast, and little to no wind. If there is wind, infrequent gusts are better than steady light breeze. Seal concrete that is cooling not cold concrete that is warming. Concrete has air that when warmed expands and blows bubbles in the sealer, cooling air contracts. Use a short nap roller, 3/8 or less. Do not seal the whole area - patio, driveway, sidewalk, etc. at once. Seal an area inside the relief cuts usually 6’x6’ or 6’x8’. Sealing a smaller area allows you to keep a wet edge. Set your open pail, with no screen, on the cut just outside the work area. This ensures you drip on the area you are working on, and the drips get worked in before drying. Dip the roller as needed. Roll a roller width neatly inside three relief cuts of an area creating a U. Start at the inside bottom of the U, walking backwards sweep your way right to left with the roller quickly and efficiently filling the inside of the U and the last pass neatly at the top to top off the U. Do not fixate on small skips or low spots. With only the weight of the roller a last pass top to bottom of the U to fill all skips and holidays it may be necessary to turn the roller to 45 degrees to the surface to fill low areas. You can call our office to speak directly with someone in technical, 800-486-7866. Hope this helps!
Hi - Serafin, you can give us a call at 800-486-7866 or email us at info@chemmasters.net and someone in our technical department will assist you with your question.
Thank you, for your question! Give us a call at 800-486-7866 for our technical department or email us at info@chemmasters.net so we can some more details to answer your question appropriately.
Hi - Del, you can give us a call at 800-486-7866 or email us at info@chemmasters.net and someone in our technical department will assist you with your question.
