I bet you are still having the shudder problem. I chased down the actual culprit by process of elimination. Installation of catch cans did catch blowbye oil and moisture vapors but did not stop the shudder. Changing to a smaller gap Motorcraft plug didn't do it either. Nor did cleaning the turbos with CRC Turbo and valve cleaner. Also the intercooler had a film of oil residue but that was it. At 122000 miles there was little buildup on the valves. Transmission fluid and filter change. Nope. Full timing service with all new Ford parts from the phasers to guides to solenoids and clean Mobile 1 5w30 Advanced Synthetic. After all that, the shudder remained. Folks have been chasing this shudder for years with mixed results and a lack of real and accurate updates. I think you would find that the shudder came back each time. My process was to document speed at the time of each shudder. What, if anything, did I do before the shudder started. How did I get the shudder to stop. What I found was that it happened at 70 mph and above. It happened after accelerating then letting off to maintain speed. The majority of time cruise control was on. Pressing tow/haul while shuddering did nothing. Accelerating stopped the shudder but it would come back after I let off. To stop the shudder I must press the brake to disengage cruise. Always in 6th gear and cruising. Changing the transmission fluid improved the time between shudders. It would shudder towing or not. In each senario where the shudder happened there was one common occurance..... torque convertor lockup. You may have noticed when you first begin to drive the truck cold and it shifts into 6th that the rpms are higher than normal. As you drive and the drivetrain warms you eventually feel an engagement that lowers your rpms by about 300-400. This is set by temperature to engage the lockup feature in the convertor. Also why tow/haul would not affect the shudder as it full time engages the lockup feature. I can only guess but I believe Ford had a huge run of bad convertors for these trucks where the lockup clutch would cavitate and cause the shudder as it's life would mature. I have read that folks arrived at this solution as well and changed convertors but tried to save some $$ by using Ford remanufactured convertors and the shudder came back. My solution was to install a brand new convertor from Ford. $700 to $1200 depending on how crafty you are in finding the lowest price. Shudder problem GONE! Good luck!
Your problems do not match what is commonly called 'Ecoboost shudder'. The intercooler acts as a catch can over time.. then one day you go to stomp on it (maybe to pass another vehicle..) and the sudden air pressure from full boost throws all the condensation/engine vapor up and into your intake causing misfires. Although it is rare it is possible to get shudder AFTER drilling the weep hole and installing a catch can, but only under extreme humid, and cool temperature conditions. In this case mostly water droplets will cause the misfire rather than nasty pcv collected vapors. It happened to me only once on a cold, damp, NC morning. I've now got a mishimoto intercooler. They claim theirs will not collect condensation..? So far so good
I think his was an issue with the NA 5.4.. I think injector messed up plugs causing shudder once in OD or high gear with low rpm. The misfire shudder back n forth would eventually sheer tranny OD pin off and maybe also messed up locking feature of torque converters
Thanks for the vid. I have a 2012 with 73k on it. Every now and then i get a shudder at idle till warm. All the research i have done. Has shown good results drilling the aftercooler hole. Ford has bulletins about induction servicing or cleaning... Claiming the deposits dump directly into the turbos and builds in the cats causing a burnout. I am hoping you see my comment. And update with any pro's or cons by said service. Thanks agsin. Well presented vid.
Thanks for your comment! Updates: don't buy after market coils! Waste of money. When you do a plug change.. buy the fresh boot kit for the stock coils. I highly recommend a catch can for the passenger side and a breathable oil fill cap for the driver side. The hole in the intercooler is like a pin hole in a fire hose.. it is the main thing to do for sure. Sea foam says that if done correctly the induction cleaning will not harm your system. I'll try to find a link. I did 3/4 of a can and would do it again. Also be sure to clean your O2 sensors! Thanks again
Ekon Rekon have you had any problems with aftermarket coils. I was thinking about getting some cause I heard increased power. Also would u recommend just doing a catch can instead of wheep whole?
I tried Excel coils and had problems with them misfiring. I recommend OEM denso coils but replace the rubber boots seals. I also recommend both the weep hole and a catch can. The intercooler can become wet quickly from just condensation.. throwing the 'water' into your combustion chamber.. causing the shutter.. alone. The catch can will help keep the nasty crank case vapors from also being collected/mixed in with the condensation.. lessening the danger of; fouling the spark plugs, burning up the cats, burning up the turbos.. BUT.. even with the weep hole, on cool damp mornings, (or similar atmospheric conditions) you may still experience shutter if you get hard on the pedal.. picking up and throwing the 'water' into your intake. So try to avoid stepping on it whenever you think condensation is likely.
I’ve got 198k miles on my 2011 f150 with the 3.5 aswell she’s a work truck but was getting 9mpg I changed plugs & coil packs & filters replacing the downstream sensor helped with the shutter & going on limp mode that just recently happened but if I foot it at a on ramp it’ll start doing it .all I’ve done is regular maintenance I’ll try the hole on the Inter cooler to see if it helps
@@blackbird15200 it actually helped I picked up some msd coil packs for $250 & msd spark plugs for $40 at summit plus drilled the hole, flushed all fluids & unplugged my battery all night to reset it . I’m getting 13.6 on highway & 11 on city. Not the best but truck feels reliable again. I’ll be flushing the transmission fluid soon too. With the way truck prices are atm I don’t think I’ll be replacing my truck any time soon.
Guys, Owners who have 2013 & 2014 F150 Ecoboosts that have the Mechanical Vacuum, we should file a class lawsuit against Ford. Every F150 of that model yr has oil leak from vacuum. It is design failure (location, and the way it is installed). Dealer charges ~$700~$900 to fix it. You can do it yourself, but the location is Pain in The AsX. Again, even you managed to install a new o-ring, but the issue can't be fixed because the fundamental problem lays in the design.
I have a 2015 Navigator. I had shudder @103k miles. I drained the transmission fluid, changed filter, and added 2 tubes of Lubegaurd Shudderfix. (I'm not endorsed) I currently have 136k and do not have the shudder. I bought some time but so far, so good.
Ecoboost shudder is caused by condensation/crank case vapors collecting in your intercooler and pooling. Essentially, the intercooler acts like a catch can and when you have pooling built up you won't know it until you spool your turbos up (to pass someone or whatever..) and the boost picks up all the nasty condensation and throws it into you intake causing multiple misfires as you coat your cylinder, head, and piston in nasty liquid. So it's a completely different issue.
I’m not sure if this is what’s causing my issue when I’m just trying to maintain speed while going up a slight grade there’s a slight lose of power for a split second then stops then will happen again once applying gas again but if you accelerate hard to the point you shift it goes fine you may notice a slight shuddered the gear runs up an the longer it does it the more you feel it under heavy loads aswell
@@LaRa-youknowit I installed a cheap JLT catch can. It is amazing how much crap and junk it collects every month. 5 minute install. Ford installing them on all new trucks.
Appreciate this helpful video. Today my truck was feeling like it was dragging ( possibly the shutter) Put a scanner on it and it said #3 was misfiring. Replaced the sparkplug and it feels good again buy will definitely do the things that you e mentioned. About 6 months ago I lost complete power, was lucky that traffic was lite and was able to pull to the side. Checked around and saw that some folks who experienced it says it's an issue with the turbo. Do you have any insight on that issue? Thanks again!!
@@Novakane206 sorry, I just looked at this comment. The only time I've experienced power loss was due to this shudder problem. If you have a turbo problem I believe an engine code should come up. With the shudder no codes will come up sometimes.
No issues, sea foam has a demonstration video. Open up the intake at center point just in front of the radiator. Hold RPM @2000.. spray entire can into intake. At 2000 rpm the turbos will not spin
This is a topic that scares me - Ford officially stated to never use any cleaners in any Ecoboost engine period. It was brought up in an interview with a Ford tech about direct injectors fowling up with carbon deposits (the exact reason 2015 and newer 'wash' the tips with fuel from another injector). First gen will appear to have some white smoke when first starting up, they run rich for about 5 seconds to lightly clean the injectors off a to help reduce the carbon from forming - BUT.... The problem with cleaners is if you have large carbon deposits on the injectors that remain attached after cleaning that never got ejected during the cleaning, then you go to drive and your turbos now spin up (170,000 rpms) and a chunk of a deposit comes off & passes through the turbo to be ejected out the exhaust, it can destroy it (the turbo). The scary part - Ford has no official/certified maintenance policy to clean the carbon buildup in these engines (direct injection) without taking them apart, but hey if it worked for you. This interview I saw was about a year and a half ago so things might have changed and Im completely paraphrasing everything. Maybe you know more..
The intercooler is ribbed. Find a spot anywhere at the bottom between ribs and drill a tiny hole (1/16"- 1/8"). Other videos out there may be able to show you an exact spot. Thanks!
So i have a 2011 king ranch with over 200k miles. had a P0016 code for the camshaft position sensor bank 1 sensor A 6 months ago. i put a new one in and it was fine until today. that is what led me to this video. is drilling this hole going to fix my issue as well? or do i have the dreaded stretched timing chain?
Hi , good video here. I have a 17 Ecoboost with 200000 KMS . Changed plugs, boots cleaned throttle body, new air filter. Problem is I keep getting po301 cylender 1 misfire. Strange thing is I reset the code and before the engine starts or is turned over at all, the code comes back. I brought it to Ford , spent 700 only to have the same thing happen . Any thoughts? Thanks
Swap coil for #1 and #2 cylinders. If #2 now misfires, your coil is bad. Stick with OEM coils for replacement, aftermarket coils have many reports of failing. OEM coil is about 70.
@@JasonW. hi Jason, I did this and Ford did it too. Still same issues. Still still stumbles once in a while but engine light is still on.thanks for replying.
@@EkonRekon unplugged the battery and reset the code before and after. Po301 comes back right away . I'm thinking it's a pcm issue. The pcm can wear out also I suppose Alot of current runs through those to get spark going. Maybe one day if spuddering is bad enough I just might get a trust worthy mechanic to replace the pcm and I'll report back .
Well not much is between the inter cooler and the ground. A little bit will get on the inside of your front fairing. Better than on your spark plugs!!😉
In the old days the turbo diesels from Europe had weep holes stock, but EPA does not allow them to do it anymore. It would be nice if there was a dealership solution but unfortunately there isn't.
@@cliftondavidpowell nah bro, here is my updated advice.. keep your stock coils but change the rubber boots and coat them on the inside with dialelectric grease, get the latest iridium plugs, get a catch can on the passenger side and a breathable oil cap on the driver side, clean all 3 of your o2 sensors, drill a tiny weep hole under the intercooler. All of this will be about $300.00. That will get you in really good shape!
Don't drill a hole in your truck! You end up polluting the ground everywhere you go, by dripping the unusable fuel mixture into the soil. The most effective way to fix the shudder issue, is to buy a dual catch can system. The single catch can system in worthless. I installed a duel can system, and after about 6 months of my catch can collecting all of the crud that had built up behind the valves. My catch can come out with clear fluid now! All of the gunk that had built up behind the valves, were now cleared up. And NO shudder what so ever! The catch can system cost me $350.00, and I installed myself. It is literally, plug and play.
I don't think you understand the entire issue. Your crank case emissions will never "turn clear". Your valves HAVE NO WAY to become clean on DI motors (unless you do the sea foam step, that will help). The catch can on the driver's side is not needed with a vented oil fill cap. The catch cans help BEFORE the turbos! Not after. Condensation will still collect in your inter cooler. I've actually had shutter twice now on humid cold mornings AFTER all the work done to avoid it. The environmental impact of the tiny hole is less than cow farts so I don't sweat it either.
And another environment nazi chimes in! These tyrants love to control your behavior, all the while they are the biggest hypocrites. And after your self righteous rant, your solution fails to address the problem. Lol Pound it pal!
