Holy Smokes!!! Informative and straightforward video. Looking at buying an older Ranger. Was told 4wheel is not engaging. After exhausting all their options. Their tired and want it gone. This might just be the fix it needs
I installed "Mile Marker" manual hubs on my '98 Ford Ranger due to constant vacuum issues. I know the automatic system is convenient, but I wanted to ensure if I needed the 4-wheel drive I would have it with the installation of the manual hubs. Got them from NAPA for around $210 with Lifetime warranty. Easy installation.....took around 30 minutes total. And I did end up capping off the vacuum lines so no debris would enter the lines for precaution. I probably didn't need to do this, but I did. That took all of 5 minutes.
@@shelby3822 I have a 99 Ranger 4x4. Did the same thing with the manual Hubs. Had them on for about 3 years now. And I drive it daily and offroad it 3 or 4 times a week. Also replaced the transfer case motor. Operation: Put truck in park, get out (Before you get off road) turn dial to LOCK. Get In truck, put in neutral, turn dash nob to 4 HI, put truck in Drive and ease forward to engage cleanly and have fun. So far, no issues. Perform flawlessly. And they look good.
I had this problem with my 99 ranger. I capped the factory lines off, removed the metal air screen at the end of the factory hub and just manually engaged the hub whenever I thought I might need 4 wheel drive. The hub is just a big ball point pen... Push with finger, lock the hub in. Push with finger, unlock the hub. I found that idea on a Ford Co tech site.😊 This is an excellent video that I wish I'd found first.
@@juan60670 1) a good scanner at a shop found a code in the module that goes behind the radio (for the 4x4 system) about the vacuum solenoid valve. It went bad. The solenoid valve goes below the engine air filter on the passenger side (you can pry out the bottom of the air filter container with a screwdriver or something else for leverage). 2) vacuum lines that go from the solenoid to the wheels were bad, full of holes on the old rubber. Switched those out with vacuum lines off the shelve. 3) the vacuum hub locks to engage the wheels (free locks activated by the solenoid with the vacuum lines) were bad. If you have a vacuum hand pump just apply little vacuum to see if it will hold. Just make the needle in the gage move a bit. Mine didn't and one was also broken. 4) the transfer electric motor is old. I opened it (it is a brush motor. Careful when opening) and the grease at the bottom off the motor enclosure were the stator spins on it's axis was dried up. Applied red bearing grease. Needed to hammer the enclosure back softly into place but it worked. It got into position faster. Would have preferred to change the brushes but they looked like they still had life on them and I didn't have any accessible. Gotta make sure I give it a workout at least once or twice a month. Sometimes the transfer case gets stuck. Disconect the battery for a minute or so and try again (to reset the electronic module otherwise you get the flashing lights on the dashboard). Happens if I don't use it regularly. I also changed the transfer case fluid. Look into it carefully Ford made some changes on the MerconV and I also read about a new transfer case fluid. Unsure if it applies.
Helpful as heck vid--thanks esp. for sorting out the routing of the vacuum lines. The weak points in Ford's PVH system are pretty obvious, but when it works, it's a welcome convenience.
thanks for this video i will check my 2000 ranger because i have change my transmission 4 times and all the time the mechanics are telling me that the transmission in not good hopefully with this new information i will save money on another transmission
It's a ridiculously complicated system, but mine has very very reliable. No trouble in almost 300,000 km. I'd still rather have the old-fashioned shift lever with manual hubs.
Remove the plastic plate under the steering column and also remove the metal brace underneath the plastic plate. If you stick your head a little inside and look up to the bottom of the steering column you will notice a little white plastic gear like wheel. Turn it forward/backward and it should adjust the indicator left/right 👍
Oh SNAP!... that means you have one of thee WORST automatic trannies ever made (FoAd A4LD), instead of one thee BEST MANUAL trannies ever made (Mazda M5OD)... swap in the latter IMMEDIATELY. You're going to have a much better Ranger. ;')
Remove the plastic plate under the steering column and remove the metal brace if you have one. If you follow the line that leads to the steering column which is a black gear with a white piece that moves back and forth. You'll see a bronze L-shaped bracket the string hooks on too tighten the screws for that
If you want to remove the hub cover without a special tool or breaking off the "fingers" like here a trick is the gently pry then up one by one with a small flat head screwdriver and slip a small piece of wire or a paper clip to hold the tooth part up. Go around the entire circumstance and wiggle it off. It works. There is an O ring inside that can be replaced another possible fix that doesn't require replacing entire hub assembly.
Great video. My 07 Ranger won’t engage, the electronic shifter does not click when turned to the 4h or 4L. No 4x4 light comes on. No brown fuses. What’s next? Thank you
When exactly did Ford change the default behavior of the hubs during loss of vacuum conditions? My friend's 07 F250 had a similar failure of the vacuum lines but just like with this Ranger: no vacuum = unlocked hubs. So when did they change it to default to lock the hub during an absence of vacuum (and is it the same for the Excursions and Super Dutys)?
@@MajorCaliberThank you! I remember reading your comment like 5 months ago, I came back hoping he replied or someone else did. Thanks for coming back and letting us know👍
Wow what a such great and helpful video , I just bought a 08 4fx I wonder if the vacuum line system is the same or similar to this 99 ranger , bye the I like the old rangers with the proper care and maintenance can be good trucks
ford did fix this problem for the rangers late 00-11 were live axle no hubs. u can upgrade the 98-99 rangers to this if u change the wheel bearings and cv shafts
is my 2007 b4000 the same system - does it stay engaged when the vacuum (line or system) is broke? I noticed my 4x4 high light is stuck on great video, thanks
I’m having a different problem. Have you seen this? around 2016, my 2006 Ford Ranger it would only go one click no matter which way you moved it so it went from two wheel to four wheel or four wheel to four low but you could only get one click out of it so what I had figured out, was unhooking the battery I could get another click, so I would just put it in four high unhook the battery for a minute hook the battery back up and then I could take it out of four wheel high around 2020. I had a lot of rust on my bed which was no good so I took off the bed removed the gas lines, the brake lines, and the wiring sandblasted the frame from the cab all the way back to the rear bumper. Used Rust Mort as a primer then I used ceramic frame paint. when I reassembled everything the four-wheel-drive came back and I didn’t touch anything to do with that. I figured it must’ve been a bad ground, couple months ago it stopped going into four low, I could still go from 2 to 4, and back to 2 Wheel Drive, I’m at work and I went to move my truck and somehow I hit the button and it went in the low and now it will not disengage. I tried unhooking the battery tried tapping on it. The motor on the transfer case it still will not come out of 4 low. Any ideas where to start on this? and my heater and air conditioner everything I was work that never stopped working. Can I unhook one of them vacuum lines and maybe the Hubs would come undone?
Hi Daniel, I know this is totally off subject, but you're the only one I trust, been watching your ford ranger vids for a while, but just subscribed.My question concerns cam position sensor. Blow my 4L engine on my 94 Ford Ranger with Ca. emissions... Bought a 93 4L engine that's NOT Ca. emissions... Got everything converted over with out to much trouble, by the 93 4L engine I bought doe not have cam position assembly or the sensor for that matter, however it doe have fuel injection. The cam assembly/sensor WAS on my 94 Ca. emissions engine... It's my understanding that the cam assembly/sensor was necessary for injector timing so they inject gas at exactly the right time. The 93 4L just has a cap covering the hole where the cam assembly/sensor belong with the same lock down disk/bolt holding the cap/covering down in place... So, My question is, How do the 93 4L get the info for injection time without the cam assembly/sensor and do I need to put the cam assembly/sensor from the 94 in the 93 I just put in... thank you in advance for your consideration.
Got any videos to troubleshoot the blasted transfer case motor? Checked the module and wiring between it and the switch, all tested good but boy am I lost on checking the motor itself from the tan 8 pin terminal. All of em I'm getting high resistance or OL aside from pin 6 where I'm getting 1.25 ohms which should be zero or as close to zero as direct short can be allegedly. Can't seem to be able to figure out what it's trying to tell me lol.
Great video! By fixing the 4WD, did the AC start working again too? I’m wanting to buy a 99 Ranger and the 4WD and AC aren’t working great. If they’re connected issues, I’m hoping the AC will fix itself by correcting the 4WD.
Not sure if you still need it, but does the AC work on High but nothing else? if so it's probably just the blower motor resistor. Happened on my 99 ranger and it took maybe an hour to fix, and the new part was $15.
There is an inner seal (orange color) associated with the vacuum system that can wear and leak vacuum preventing the system from working properly. The seal mounts in the steering knuckle.
Never have to worry about those breaking down, I did that to 2 of my Rangers, the first because the inside of the hub broke apart, stuck back in the mountains 4x4ing, winched 4 kilometres to get out of there, 2nd one was day after I bought it I replaced them, so I wouldn’t have the same problem as the first.
Good video - I well check it out . Mine started hitting hard be for in 4 wheel drive and then nothing! It some times makes a noise out and have to fast but in 4 wheel drive and out and it stops in free wheel .
Very nice and detailed information about the 4W system, I have the same problem on my 98 ranger,the light comes on indicating I'm in 4W how ever the front wheels don't spin only the axles do spin,is there a way to know the actuater is working or do you suggest to just replace the hubs since the axles do spin, thank you.
Axles spinning means that the drivetrain is in 4x4. Hubs not spinning is an issue with the hub locks either not getting vacuum (leaking hoses) or they physically are faulty hubs
I have a 1997 Eddie Bauer Ford explorer all wheel drive wondering if perhaps ranger parts are interchangeable as far as front differential, hubs and CVC axle
Hi Daniel, I've got a 2007 ranger xlt. Last weekend I was using the 4high, and it started making a clicking sound, like it had a piece of plastic loose. When I changed back to 2wd it does not sound. Any thoughts on what it may be?
Great vid. Subd already. Hey Daniel, I am not seeing any vacuum in my vacuum solenoid. What happens when WL T vacuum pump is completely not working. I think my vacuum pump (due to no RWF and can't feel in solenoid) but I don't see issues with the car.
My 1998 Ford ranger doesn't have 4by 4 because someone wax fixing a light and messed it up its manual and the 4 by 4 is ra by a motor any info would be appreciated thanks
Do you know if this is the same thing that will happen on the 2007 - 2009 ford ranger 3.0 tdci XLT models? I know some who has the 2007 ranger and the 4wd does not engage and he needs help as he is unable to find the solution to fix it
I just bought a 97 is has the selector switch inside but has locking hubs outside. Is this the factory setup? If so why do I have to put selector switch to 4x and lock hubs? Also can I leave hubs in 4x full time with switch off.. what am I not understanding here?
I need to know I have a 1996 Ford Ranger club cab (5 speed manual transmission 4 wheel drive with self locking hubs) with a grinding sound in the transfer case. It grinds in 2 wheel drive and when I engaged 4 wheel drive shifter then lock the hubs the grinding is so bad the whole truck shakes! What do I do? I take very good care of my trucks I have 2 of them . 1993 Ford Ranger 2 wheel drive and my 1996 Ford Ranger 4 wheel drive.
It depends on whether the vacuum line was lost while the hub was engaged or disengaged. I lost my vacuum line while the hubs were engaged, so the wheels were turning the driveline, making noise. I had to pull the PVH hubs off to manually disengage them, then reassemble.
I have a problem with my 1999 B4000 hub system. When I am driving on a highway the front end starts buzzing. If I turn the 4wd switch to 'on' the buzzing goes away. Then, when I turn off the 4- wd, the truck is quiet for a while. Then the buzzing starts up again. Turn the 4wd switch to 4-high again and the buzzing goes away. Can I just disconnect the vacuum lines going to the hubs, (or pinch them off) and drive as a 2 wheel drive only, for a month or two?
What is the part number for the seal that came with the hub? I rehabbed the hub, but have a slight vacuum leak at the seal. I called Ford parts and they could not locate it on their diagrams.
So what would you do if it’s stuck in four wheel drive and can’t get out to go home? I there a fuse or something maybe the Mechanic could respond. Can’t drive down the Hwy. 50 miles a hour. This actually happened Feb. 4th. Thanks
So are you saying 4X4 is always engaged full time to the front diff, and the dash switch only activates/affects the hubs? If this is so, then couldn't the problem be fixed by installing manual hubs and plug off the vacuum lines to the front wheels.?
I have a '93 Mazda B4000 which is a Ranger, really. I put a new clutch in, and was going to fix the 4WD. It could be done, the transfer case and front diff are fine. But the vacuum valve and hoses are missing. the Shift motor is shot.. I figure it's not worth the trouble! It will be a 2WD.
@@Veikra engage the hubs all the time during winter, the only time 4 wheel drive is engaged is when you turn the switch to 4x4 to engage the transfer case for 4x4. When 4x4/transfer case is disengaged you are back to 2 wheel drive.
@@jeffs7573 Not only that, but that's what ford did in 2000 on the ranger. They removed the hubs and put normal cv like on a gmc. So then the cvaxles and diff always spin
No vacuum for that, instead there's a large electric motor (with a right-angle worm gear) bolted to the rear side of the transfer case. It gets rusty and goes bad also. It's called the 'Transfer Case Shift Motor' in parts catalogs/websites. *Beware the BROWN wire* when replacing this item.
