Good repair Stuart. The Marshall DSL50 and TSL60 are my favorite amps. They're easy to bias. And I love their high gain distortion. But they're made very complicated.
I want to thank you for making this video! I didn't have the exact issue that you went over here but through watching this, I was able to figure out what was going on with my own amp and I once again have an amp that I really enjoy playing.
You made hard work of that :-). When you were working on V2 later in the video I was telling you that it was V3 earlier in the video you said was the problem but you didn't listen.
I am certainly glad that I've never left off a connector inside an electrical device before buttoning everything up... never in 35 years have I done that.... and certainly not with a traffic light control panel at the very top of a drawbridge....
I had one of these amps for several years. it was built in 2002, thankfully never had the issue with the conducive board. I did hear say that the 100 watt models were more prone to it. Not sure if there's any truth in that. You're right brilliant amps and i really regret selling mine. much preferred its sound over the JVM I currently own.
@@stuartukguitarampguy5830 well yes that is true. There are also some other Marshall’s I’d like to try such as a plexi and a silver jubilee. But you’re right they keep popping up for sale. Mine went off to someone in Belgium! I think I got lucky and had a good one, that’s the only reason I haven’t pursued getting another one, because of the possibility of getting one with issues. The studio series intrigue me too. Would be interested to hear one of those in the flesh. I had a couple of the vintage modern combos too. They’re a great sounding amp!
Stuart, I notice some builders place links in the "Subscriptions" section of their RU-vid channel to those builders/artists they respect. I use this as a way to connect with other higher caliber content providers. If you, Lyle, Brad, Chris, the other Brad, or Uncle Doug feel someone is worth your time, maybe it's worth my time and attention as well. Thanks, Jerry in Vegas
Leve your work Sir ! Be careful with that Orange tester , two friends of mine had one and they often tested worn on NOS Mullatd 12AX7 's and others. If you Google Orange Valve Tester issue , you'll be surprised on how many sites there is talking about those being falty.
Hi Lou, yes I know about that tester, not at all reliable. Orange withdrew it about 5 years ago, which is interesting. They promised a new tester but it just hasn;t emerged. It's not a trivial problem making a valve tester.
I don't work on marshalls often, but recently working on a DSL combo, all of those marshall ecc83s with the silvery innards were very noisy. Just changing them turned an unusably noisy amp to sounding... less noisy.
Hi Stuart,me again. I enjoyed the video. Any tech in what ever field mistakes happen. I have a question about a Marshall DSL40CR if you have worked on these. I am thinking about buying one but wonder if the preamp valves are soldered to the board or are they in sockets. Thanks for all the wonderful videos. You are a genious. Going to bed now. Greetings from Texas USA.
It is strange how we work differently. If have to go to a lot of trouble to remove a board (as you did) I never refit without checking it over for bad/dry joints' Also, I never full reassemble until I have tested it is working. Had you just fitted two plastic nuts to the rear pcb it would have been a quick job to plug in the forgotten bias connector.
Hi Yes I guess we all work differently. Btw just because I dont show something (e.g. checking for dry joints) doesn;t mean I didn't do it. Although in this case I can;t recall if I did or not. All the best
I was looking now at the top of the chassis, and it looks like that there is a "cover", which holds the main PCB - if the tops screws were removed, maybe it would be possible to remove the mainboard without dealing with other PCBs ...
One notable exception to the general longevity of most preamp-type tubes,,12AX7 and their cousins,, is that Russian preamp tubes have a disproportionate tendency to fail prematurely in cathode-follower circuits. Phase invertors in particular often use cathode followers, and so you might be better off with a Chinese or Yugoslavian tube there, or vintage NOS. It would have been interesting to know if the one tube that tested weak and had a discrepancy in gain between the two triode sections was the one being used for the phase inverter.
@@stuartukguitarampguy5830 I have one on the bench. I replaced the main board, PT, and OT. The level of hum is quite low and does not increase as you increase volume.
Nice one Stuart - helped me fix the exact same problem on one of my customers amps - And yes…love to see all the natural mistakes, helps me avoid doing them🤘😅
I desolder it, use a xacto knife n scape the lead, reflux n solder ymmv................Ive had these amps go CONDUCTIVE between Hi Tension n bias, used hollow drills n drilled pin 5 n hardwired it. saved the amp, also some of the have a 500pf ( 47pf maybe) pin 3 to 5 on LAST power tube ( WHY ON EARTH, il never know lol) ( OUCH) it will LEAK n cause probs to i chucked it w/no adverse effects ( One side going hotter in current)
