800W Heating Element: amzn.to/3uS0ttJ 1,200W Heating amzn.to/382anQK Spade Terminal Set: amzn.to/2Q0Frau High Temp Spade Terminals: amzn.to/3vrvMtU Multi-meter: amzn.to/3bM9B9X Crimping Tool: amzn.to/3cqyAPe Red RTV Silicone Gasket: amzn.to/3th8chj 18 ohms for the 800W element (30" smoker) 12 ohms for the 1,200W element (40" smoker) 👍 *** If you appreciate this video you can show your support and appreciation using the Super Thanks feature (on bar near 👍 button below video). Any thanks is welcome and appreciated ***
Thank you so much! My smoker decided to stop working around midnight...had to finish the butts in the oven. Found this video 30 minutes later and ordered the parts. It's working again!
It is crazy to think that some people have the time and knowledge to put these sort of videos on the internet to be able to help folks like me! Thank you for adding this on You Tube! Just what I was looking for and I had the same issue. It was a little PIA to get all the rusted screws removed but got it done and replaced the heating element and back in operation again! Thanks again! 👍👍
Thank you so much for the video! I was very intimidated by this repair and almost just replaced. This is a bit out of my skill set. So excited to have my smoker back in action! I have had mine for a couple years but used a few time a week almost year round.
Thanks, my MES40 stopped heating yesterday near the end of a cook. Finished in the oven. Thought is was time for a new smoker. Mine is about 8 years old. Connectors were completely corroded, cleaned it all and replaced connectors, works fine again. Ordered a new Heating Element you recommended. Thanks Again! Happy Smoking!
My 40” is almost 3 years old and stopped heating last night during a 18 hour pork roast smoke. I just ordered the parts, looking forward to getting it back up and smoking! I was ready to pitch it, thanks for the the information (links to the parts especially) and easy to follow video.
Great video. Very much appreciated. My 40" MES began failing to hold the temp set after approximately 20-30 uses. I followed your instructions and upon opening the back panel saw the same fried wire connectors as you show in the video. Per your recommendation I plan to replace the connectors and the heating element. Disappointed that Masterbuilt hasn't addressed this clear design flaw. My home oven is over 25 years old and the heating elements still work like a charm. So the fact that these connectors and elements fail within a couple years of purchase is a clear indication of a design issue. I hope someone at Masterbuilt reads all of these reviews and addresses the issue appropriately. Thanks again for the tutorial.
Appreciate the comment. I had wondered if could be be due to water vapor/steam produced from using the water pan getting back there when smoking, but gaskets and boot should protect from that. Seems just poor/cheap terminals.
Got my master built in 2018 for a safety award at AK Steel heating coil just went out this week used it hard! Made lots deer jerky ,smoke salmon,Boston butts ,pork lions etc.its held up pretty well I thought maybe 2 years got 5 out of it.plan to replace heating coil and get a little more from her !! Thanks for the how to !
Thank you for your excellent instructions on the heating element replacement. As per your advise, I also replaced the connections to the element. My smoker is now working perfectly. I was ready to throw it out when it didn't heat up; but after looking at your video, replacing the element was an easy fix. Thanks again.
My Masterbuilt 30 inch electric smoker worked great for the first 2 years. Then all of a sudden it kept tripping the breaker. When I ran an extension cord to an outlet not on the same circuit it worked fine. Thinking I needed to check the electrical outlet I kept on using the extension cord for my next couple of smoking endeavors. Until now it doesn't heat. And that is why I found this video and I will be taking a look at my burner and connections. So thank you. Good and helpful video.
Thank you for helping me get my smoker working again! Mine is about 4 years old. The video is easy to understand, step by step, and purchased the parts online and received them in 24 hours. Now it's time to do a practice turkey : )
I join the others who thank you very much for the video. I would have figured it out myself in the end but watching this video ahead of starting to loosen screws was very helpful. I was going to take off that back cover plate for starters anyway, and that revealed, much like this video that the connection at the wire terminal and element was burned through. In my case it was actually the element terminal, so my path would have been to replace the element anyway instead of just the wires/terminals you started with. These smokers have different internal configurations, so one has to still do some figuring out if your model isn't built exactly like this inside. I fix stuff all the time so it wasn't a big deal, but people should understand that not every one of these smokers is exactly what's in this video. Even the element connection. Mine had two screws instead of two studs with nuts, but they still lined up perfectly with the holes. Also, mine had the ground wire attached to its own hole on the element base plate. I drilled a hole for it that wasn't there on the new one, then realized I could have just attached it to one of the studs as in your video! The link to the element has 4 options. They are selling these as a kit now with everything you need, including all three new gaskets and replacement wires/terminals. They only show one gasket on the picture on Amazon but it shipped in 24 hours with all of them. So for $30, if the element is your problem, it was a fairly easy fix for someone who is good with tools. Masterbuilt shows this kit for $15 on their web site, but they will not answer the phone to tell you when you can expect to receive it. That ticked me off so much I just bought the one from Amazon and will avoid buying anything "Masterbuilt" again just for the lack of customer service. I did not use the extra RTV on that back plate. Makes no sense to me. My smoker is garage kept and I dont use it in the rain unless its under a deck parasol, so I think just the gasket is sufficient. My wires, etc. were nowhere near as dirty and corroded looking as some of the videos I've seen (it was burnt though, I could smell that telltale smell as soon as the cover plate came off) so maybe the fact that its garage kept and I dont use it all the time makes a difference. My smoker is 9 years old. I fired it up, ran it to the max 275°, let it hold temp for a half hour or so and tossed in some chips to make sure they burn. Looks like its working! No meat on the schedule to smoke at the moment, but I'll fully test-drive it soon.
I just finished my heating element replacement per your instructions and everything is working perfectly. My smoker no longer trips the GFCI outlet on my deck - no doubt an indicator things were going south. I did find a pinhole failure in the old element, not as dramatic as yours, but there nonetheless. My only struggle was removing the screw toward the back on the inside - just because it was hard to get to. WD40 and patience prevailed. Getting that screw back in was also a challenge as you have to line up three holes you can't see. I ended up using a toothpick to ensure the holes were lined up before trying to thread the screw. I found that firmly attaching the outside screws stabilized the heat shield assembly improved my chances to line up the inside screw. My outside wiring was in much better shape than yours - most likely because I keep a cover on my smoker when it's not in use. The heating element kit came with new wiring, which I will hold onto. Thanks for the great instructions!
Thanks so much for this video. I was about to toss my Masterbuilt but after watching your video and ordering the parts you listed in the comments, was able to replace the heating element and get it working again for less than $40 bucks all in! Great job making making it easy to learn!
I went to fire up my smoker this morning and no heat. Thank you for this video. I ended up soldering the wires right to the element for now until new parts arrive. You dialed me right to the failed component and I was able to smoke a Brisket this afternoon for late dinner.
Only issues I'm running into currently is the screws are so rusted they won't come out. This video did help alot more than the installation instructions sent. I've had mine for almost 4 yrs now. The smoker chip box cover on mine will need replacing now that I've seen its also completely rusted.
@thebumpchannel yeah I've kept it out of the weather too. I've got to crimp the wiring since mine didn't have those spades attached. Your video helped tremendously, Masterbuilt's instruction not at all.
Instructions were great. I have a Char-Broil digital electrical smoker and replacing the element is the same except for a couple of different screws that have to come out on the inside and if you can't figure out, you probably shouldn't be making this repair in the first place. Thank you very much!
Great video! thank you! I have about 7 years on the original parts. When I pulled the back cover off the wires were crumbling. New element installed and working again.
Great video - very clear and succinct. Just ordered parts to replace heating element after it registered no resistance w/ MM. Had to look-up heating element for 800W 30" model, but other than that this video literally told me everything I needed to know (well, assuming the repair works) - thanks so much. Unit failed after about 3 years of use, and my spade terminals and wires looked like new (unlike the ones in the video)
Thank you for all the info. my smoker turns on but won't heat up so I replace the terminals and heater element and still won't work. try to get in touch with MASTERBUILT and you know can't get any help yet. so I m thinking on replace the controler but I can't find it. do you have any advise?? thanks again
Awesome video and greatly appreciated. My MES 40" was working great until today. Saw your video and low and behold a fried connector. The element looks ok but I've ordered a new one anyways. Thanks for your help on saving a few dollars.
It is a good idea to test and check the new element with your ohm meter before installing it. This is to ensure that the new element isn't faulty. You don't want to install it, then find out you got a bad one off the shelf and have to do the job twice right off the bat.
@thebumpchannel na, it didn't happen to me. I was just watching the video. I thought it's pretty good. Back when I was in college, one of my electronic technology professors was always beating it into our heads to check components before putting them in a circuit.
Hey bud just came across your video I appreciate the installation I believe my heating element is doing the same thing as yours big pop and blows my breakers I recently ordered a heating element for my smoker I got the 40 series I've only had my smoker for about 2 years and used it about three times and the heating element blew masterbuilt isnt making smokers like they used to. I purchased my heating element through appliance factory parts.
Thank you for this. I wish I could say things are resolved. My smoker is slow to heat up and wants to quit heating after about 30 minutes. I checked all the mentioned items in this video. Can I assume my element is going bad while not showing any wear? My connections look brand new...unit is about 3 years old.
Thanks, found 0ohm's then the hole in my element and ordered one on Amazon to be here tomorrow. my spade terminals had heat resistant padding and heatshrink i'll replace.
We have had ours for about 10 years and it just failed. Thank you for making the video. It will help us fix ours. Any ideas on the meat probe replacement? The wiring for it is losing its coating and probably not accurate any more
Great tips, my problem is that I cannot get my smoker to turn on the controller does not have any key. There’s no controls to control. I have power on the chorus check the element and it’s not shorter. Everything looks brand new we have just used the smoker four times only but this time it doesn’t come on. Do you have any tips? Any suggestions?
Might be the main control board on bottom. I would check it. I loaned mine to a neighbor and he didn't empty the grease tray on bottom when he return. The liquids spilled all over bottom when he tilted and moved it. Liquids got into the main control board area and fried the board. Luckily it was under warranty at the time and Masterbuilt sent me the part.
Got mine for Christmas last December. Used it three times and I’m having issues getting over 230 degrees. Cleaned the probes and thermometers, checked the heating element and that works fine. Idk what the issue is, control panel seems fine it just doesn’t read the temp getting over 250. Got up to 275 the previous 3 uses no problem. Not sure what my issue is
Replaced heating element 800W turned on set for 180deg 1 hour. started heating up and up 180-190-200-210-220. then I shut it off. Do you think it is the control board? I am leaning that way! Thanks Billy
So are you implying that it is powering the element all the time? Most controls have a light indicating when the element is ON (being powered). You can check voltage to element when light On/Off. If on all the time board circuit is shorted.
@@thebumpchannel Tested it again today set at 200* it went to 200* then the heating light went off at 200* then the readout went to 231* but the temp in smoker started to drop and didn't start to reheat until the read out got below 200*. the temp in smoker dropped to 175 or less before it kicked back on. Crazy!!!
Very helpful video. This will be my last MES (I've bought ~6 and get about 3 years out of them). Their customer service is a joke. I replaced my heating element and terminals. The element is reading 11.4-12 ohms. The control panel shows both lights working but I am still getting no heat. I took of the back and saw it looked pretty burnt up to the left of the wire box. The wires all look good from the top of the unit (control panel) to the bottom where the circuit board is. My terminals were badly corroded and I was sure that was the issue but I replaced the heating element anyway but still no luck. Any suggestions you have would be most appreciated.
@@thebumpchannel Thanks. That's what I am afraid of is that it is the circuit board. IF it is, is the unit toast? When you say "check terminal voltage" I am assuming on the heating element like I checked for ohms? What should the voltage be? Again, I appreciate your time and help. Thanks again.
I just got a very slightly used 30" Masterbuilt cheap. The element reads 18 ohms, and the spade terminals look like new. The heating light comes on on the board, but no heat. I assume it's the board or wiring. No voltage at the element. Do you know what that voltage should be?
Update resolved on my 30 inch: My issue turned out to be the thermal limit switch. It's behind the other panel on the back with 6 screws. I pulled the spade connectors off and checked the continuity of the switch. It was open, and should be closed when cool. I jumped the spade terminals and it heated right up. You can order one from Masterbuilt and maybe get it in a couple months. Or you can find it on Appliance Mart for $35. I found the same switch on Ebay, 2 for $7.99. Search for KDS301, and then make sure to buy one that is 250V, 10A, 150degerees C, normally closed. Hope this helps someone else!
Hello my mb 40 is turning on and gets to desired temp 250 but won’t keep temp it starts to go down 120 after a couple of hours what’s your opinion on that?
I would check for voltage at heater terminals when it says heating. If no voltage could be control board issue or wiring. Also check resistance on the element with terminals disconnected.
My smoker got my brisket to 165, but after I wrapped it and put it back in, the ambient temp never got up above 200, and the brisket dropped to 155, and didn't rise from there. Moved the brisket to the over to finish. I have had my smoker for 2 years. 😞
Replaced my 1200 watt element and terminals last year. Replaced fuse 2 months ago. All worked until today when I wanted to dump chip ashes, tray was stuck, gave it a yank. Full of unburt chips, some dropped onto element. Now it won't heat up, all tests fine, element has 13 ohms resistance and power (120v) to both terminals. But no heat! Fuse is good. Im missing something....
Well that sounds odd. No temp rise with 120V at heater terminals doesn't add up. have seen where tray placement can cause unburnt chips. May need to bend or adjust the tray rack. Could be a thermostat issue I guess cutting power to element or control board issue.
@donreynolds6187 there is an over temperature thermostat on the back wall. It can go bad and will keep the element from getting power. You would need to remove the back cover to check and or replace it.
My smoker worked fine the first time. Next time got a error message from control panel unplugged like it said and worked. Tried today and panel says element heating but nothing. Think I need a new panel.
So mine seems to get up to temp and stays there. 17.7 ohms on the element so that should be good. The problem I have is it doesn't get hot enough to get the wood smoking. Any ideas?
One problem I have with the electric smoker is, in the summertime the box holds temp longer between cycles of the element on and off. So in 90 degree ambient temps outside, it can get to 225 and hold it for a long time before it needs to turn the element on. If the element doesn't come on very much, the wood wont burn very much. The fastest solution to this for me was to carefully aim a propane or mapp gas torch (I have a nozzle with a trigger, so you can just point and shoot) in to the chip tray hole. If you use a flashlight, you can see the chips sitting there. You can fire up the chips with the torch, plug the hole back up with the chip loader, rinse and repeat as needed. What I have done is stopped smoking in the summer. I know, thats when everyone wants to smoke food, but I find the electric smoker performs better below 80 degrees F. Even better in colder temps. I dont even like to grill when its above 90...I hate the heat, but I switch to grilling for the summer and do my smoking in spring or fall. Something else I do defies the traditional. If smoking in the summer, or for instance I just smoked a whole trout which doesn't take very long, a couple hours at 180. I dont preheat the smoker. It never made sense to me. I add chips right away, put the meat in and start the smoker. This gets more smoke on the meat early since the chips dont burn as much when the element is off. Also, meat stops taking in smoke as a certain surface temp. Cant remember the temp, but for a Butt for instance, its a waste of chips to continue to smoke after the stall at 165, its not going to take in any more smoke in to the meat at that point.
@@thebumpchannel and I see a couple of different ones on Amazon that are in the same price range I just want to get the best one available for my masterbuilt 40 inch
Oh are you referring to the flickering lights on SSD. That's just a weird interaction between the light guides and light filters or focus on my phones camera. At a certain distance it made the SSD look like lights were flickering but they weren't. I had to move phone in real close for it to appear as it would to the naked eye.
