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great video. it will allow me to powernap in the vehicle without the annoying constant clicking! Note: you will need a stumpy phillips screwdriver to take the actuator off To get the glovebox out of the way, squeeze the grey sides of the plastic bin inwards to allow the lock pins to pull away clear from the underdash frame
Thank you guys!! This helped me fix the mystery of the clicking noise behind the passenger glove compartment on my 2017 Ford Everest. Thought it was a rat. Confirmed now, only needed to clean the actuator contacts because nothing was broken, maybe it was just dirty. No replacements needed. Opened up the actuator, cleaned up the contacts and reinstalled. -- NO MORE NOISE!!! You guys are awesome! Cheers!
Hi @Grant, I'm having the same issue with my 2017 Ford Everest, sounds like a rat scratching in the dash. How do I access this in my unit? Im not really sure where to begin. Hope you can help
Same here. I already bought a replacement actuator for my 2017 Ford Everest. The first time the dealership fixed it because the noise showed up within the 3 year warranty period. Now I have to change it myself. Thank you for this video.
Mate you are a legend, This has been pissing me off since buying my ranger from new. Ford said can not find what you are talking about on 3 visits then out of warranty. $10 can of sca contact cleaner and presto no more noise, so happy man, thank's for your vid.
Thnx! done cleaning ac actuator from this side and noise ticking sound gone👍 Now its the actuator from the driver side is ticking during the engine off. Can you make a video on how to remove it? Thnx
You champion. I’m gunna have a look at fixing this tomorrow. Brought the issue up with Ford last service and even told them it sounded like an issue with the airflow damper and all they said they could do is do a “fault reset” and see if it would go away 🙄. Guess what ? It DID...n’t. Got some talent on board that ford outfit that’s for sure. Thanks again legend 👍 Edit : all fixed.The one that was playing up for me wasnt the one directly behind the glovebox it was the one to the right of it. Bit tricky to get to but same principle. Cheers again
I also have a 2017 Ford Everest with the same outcome as Grant Gorre outlined below. Thanks for the video and the fix to an issue which had been ongoing for a couple of years. Even the Ford dealership service team could not fix the issue when it was first raised. Loved the tip of using the USB stick to open the tabs for removal of the covers.
Thanks for the video mate, finally got around to doing this to mine yesterday, the silence is golden after so long of hearing that damn rat behind the dash 😂. Literally took me 15, beats buying a new one 👍🏻
Just replaced the cabin/pollen filter for a guy.......There was a mountain of chewed up paper & mice droppings on top of the filter. They are getting in at the side of the bonnet hinges. No use leaving the air flow in the recirc position..... it resets to External air when the ignition goes off.....
Glad this video helped you. Share the video in any groups you are in and I guarantee that you will help another person and this is what this channel is about, helping others. If there is anything else you want to see a video on, let me know and I will try and make it, watch my other videos as well, glad this video helped
Great video super helpful. There are actually a couple of Actuators and the one in this video is the easier of the two to fix. if it's the other one close to the center of the dash like mine its a real prick to get out. I had to drill a 10mm hole in the steel to access the bottom screw of the actuator which worked well and saved my hours of frigging around. Recommend also using a magnetic tip screw driver so that you reduce the risk of dropping the screws
Did you manage to get it out and back in mate? I'm trying to do mine at the moment but having problems with that 3rd screw, will try and drill a hole like u suggested
Thanks for the video, for months I’ve been living with that noise and 30 min later it’s gone. If you don’t have 8 USBs laying around paper clips work just as well to open it up
The passenger side blend door actuator in my LHD Wildtrak (Germany) is a pain remove. There is very little space to access the three screws, and I had to use a FAMAG 90-degree angle attachment to reach the screws. However, it worked the first time a few years ago, and now I have to do it again.
Your a bloody legend mate! Sorted mine out today along with one to the right of it which actuates the foot well, face and windscreen airflows. This one was the main culprit but your little buddy was starting to tick as well. The silence now is golden!! Cheers Bud
Thanks mate I'm a Holden fan but this is the first time owning a Ford Ranger i love the car but hv no understanding about Ford but your videos really help me.. I hear that noise too but now I do know what it is. Cheers Mate 👏👍💝
Just saved my sanity, thank you! Had same issue in my ford Mondeo but intermittently, just changed to a ford ranger and was alot more noticeable. 30minutes and it's done. I used lighter butane gas and q-tips to clean the contacts.
Super Heroes don't always wear capes! I've been struggling with this for 3 years, every time I've had it at the agents for a service it disapears... BT50 quiet! Thanks from a happy SAFFA.
Many thanks buddy heavy diesel mechanic this helped me locate and rectify the fault in under 30 mins and at a huge saving as ford would have just replaced the unit thanks again
Your video is very helpful, I just pulled the heater temp control one out of the right hand side, what a pig of a job, cleaned it and put it back in, still noisy, pulled it apart a second time, noticed the worm gear on the motor looked like it may have walked up the shaft, pushed it back down the shaft so the worm gear was in the centre of the gear it drives on, smeared the excess grease into the gears and its silent again. I'm thinking if its left for a while the constant banging into the end stops cause it cant position properly causes it to hammer the worm gear along the shaft causing the gears to not mesh correctly
the main noises are the ticking noise guessing from heater actuators and then a buzzing sound constant at 2000rpm which feels like its from the blower through the duct but nothing loose have you seen these reported before?
Really glad it helped, feel free to share the video in any groups or forums you are in to help others. It may not fix every issue but it should fix the majority of them
Helped me a lot but then it was still making the noise. Turns out there is at least 2 more of these acctuators (in harder-to-reach spots) for the ac system. I found my problem on but this process didn't seem to fix my issue. Gunna have to replace mine I think
Thanks man. How about a video presentation of side airvent removal of 2014 ford ranger? I was trying to find any videos here on how to remove the side airvent but i can't find it. Thanks ahead man. Cheers!
I wish I seen this earlier 🙏🏽 that sound drove me to rolling my Ranger off the harbour bridge! 🤣 that was the most annoying thing about my old Ute 🤦🏽♂️
Gday mate doing one of the Temperature actuators is there anything i need to know doing one of these ? Being there is a keyway should the temperature controler be set to cold or hot ? Also ford said it also may need to be reset buy them or disconnect your negative side of the battery for about an hour? Have you heard this cheers and thanks for the video most helpful
I'm not to sure where the other one is, as I only had problems with the one behind the glove box I will have a look to see if I can find it and get back to you about it
Hi all, If you want extra info, join The Insight District facebook group and ask other group members questions as well facebook.com/groups/theinsightdistrict/
Hi, great video. I am struggling with my Ranger, as it does not set the direction of the air at all, blows only on the driver/front seat passenger. So I figured it must be one of the same motors you were cleaning. I've seen that there are three of these, one for the temperature, on for vent speed and one for air direction. Did you identify which one is which? Because there is one on the left (europe, driver's side), which seems impossible to get out without removing the dash..which I would like to avoid. Any tips/tricks of advice would be welcome!
Thanks for that. Great video and it pointed me in the right direction. Unfortunately my BT50 noise is coming from the passenger blend actuator which seems a lot harder to get at. Now to figure out how to get it out.
@@rallyphilip No. I took the easy way out. When we left the cold weather I pulled the plug out of the back. No more noise and only cold air which is just fine for NT and FNQ. One day maybe…
@@mikeroberts1281 another guy made a comment on here that he drilled a 10mm hole in the steel to get at the 3rd screw, I manged to get 2 out and will try at weekend to get the 3rd. I've pulled the plug out as well and it's all good now in summer
my AC mode selector not works in ranger. all the modes getting air from passanger vents instead of deforst and legs vents. Actuator issue or any other? Ford ranger Px 2015
Managed to solve my passenger side aircon not working with this video, it was not this actuator that was the problem but was the one to the right of it. Do you have any tips on how to get to the driver side actuator as that is also playing up.
Did you manage to remove the actuator to the right without taking the dashboard out? If so what did you use? I think that maybe the one causing my passenger side not to get warm.
My 2016 Ranger sounds like all the others.....a rat scratching around behind the dash ! The scratching noise is virtually full time, even with ignition off....would this cause my battery to slowly discharge ?
Thanks for the heads up, everyone that I have seen with problems on a px2 ranger have had it with the one behind the glove box, but its good to know there are others and this may fix those issues so thank you for this information
Hey guys, i did everything as you described and fixed!! Now i want to fix the other that give directions for the air. I put the air to goes only to the dash panel but it keep going a little bit to the floor! How can take that actuator off?? Thanks bro!!
Thanks for the video, it certainly identified the issue and overall there were great tips provided throughout. I looked really closely to see how the key on the actuator was set before the reinstall but I had to pull it all out and set it 180deg the other way for it to realign correctly. Also had to investigate separately how to drop the glovebox to even start. Thank you for sharing though.
thanks, that noise been doing my wife and I's heads in. sound like rats chewing the car.. but its the plastic gears grinding.. boy that can't be good for the actuator
Hello I have a question so my ac blender door for my ford ranger 2019 is not working by any chance is this the part you changed ?? Or what’s the ac blender door located I hear the crack noise once I turn the AC off on the passenger side
Hey mate good vid! Is this the actuator that ticks while the car is off? Ive had this problem the whole time ove had my ranger and Ford said the ticking when car off is an actuator behind the dash on drivers side, is that correct? I never bothered to fix it because I didnt want to remove the dash, however if they told me incorrect information and this is the fix im laughing! Thanks
Yea this is the one that makes noise when they are turned off, what model car do you have, because this is on a px2, but have been told that on a px1 it can be just on the left hand side of the driver's foot well as well. But this is one of the methods that you use to fix it either way if that's your issue
@@TheInsightDistrict i have a 2013 PX1 XLT. I'll do what you did and hope for the best! At least i know what im looking at now and might be able to find it! Love the vids, keep it up. Thanks heaps!
This is the exact reason why I make them, I'm not a mechanic, so I only do the tasks I know I can do and me being an average person, means any average person can do what I do, and it helps others out, which is what I want to achieve, so thanks for the feedback. The hard part it's trying to reach as many people as I can because being a small channel people don't always watch your videos. But once again, thank for the feedback and if you have any questions feel free to ask and I'll try and help
You could probably use it to clean the bulk of the contaminants away, but i would probably use a contact cleaner to wash away any residue of the WD40 as i dont know how it would interact with the electronics in the actuator
Hi... Very helpful videos. Thanks. Wondering if you could help. I have a 2013 3.2 XLT. It has a ticking noise very similar to a typewriter noise. Sounds like a loose heatshield. It only comes on under load between 1500 and 1700 rpm. Doesn't do it on idle. If I rev it on neutral it doesn't do it... If I blip the throttle I can hear one tick but not on every blip. 30 000kms and I still can't find it. Any advice would be great. Thanks
This is my problem aswell Sachin, I can be rolling, go into neutral and rev and it doesn’t happen, but if i’m in gear and accelerate underload all i can hear is a loud “tick tick tick tick” This only happens UNDERLOAD, No it is not the injectors nor thr actuators. it’s coming from somewhere under the vehicle, can only hear it with windows down. A lot of people said it could be the flex plate, but someone had that done and it’s still making the tick. Did you ever figure out what it is?
@@baileyjones5259 Ford replaced engine, turbo, injectors and a lot of other hanging components. Ticking was still there. Could be coming from the gearbox. I'm not sure. Do this... Put in 1st gear, hold on the brake and release the clutch slowly. The noise should come on. I narrowed it down around the sump area... And gave up
It’s simple. Lift the top cover (silver piece) off the leather knob. This can be accomplished by using something thin but without a sharp edge like a Bic pen lid or a plastic spak filler blade. This cap has plastic prongs which hold it in place. Once this is off, the knob is held on by a nut. Undo this and the knob slides off.
Hey mate, do you have a problem solving for the A/C actuator recicrulation for direction body/leg? Because it said has to open all the entire dahsboard. THX
I have a 2017 Ranger XLT dual Cab 3.2 litre when I pull up at the lights or idling, I am getting a vibrating noise which is really annoying. Is it something to do with the Torque converter? Please help.
It could be multiple things, sometime with mine if I'm idleing for a a period of time it will give a irregular shake of the ute, but goes away. It might be hard to do but while the car is parked walk around the vehicle while its idleing and find the strongest point of the vibration and it might help you identify the component
Your more then welcome, I hope that you can get a fix for the issue, nothing worse then a noise you have and can't figure out what's wrong, keep me updated when you find out what's wrong, would be interesting to know
Hi i have this weird noise on my dash to be specific its on the driver side. Whenever i start running the vehicle or drive to slight rough road or not paved road i hear this sound like plastic, its like ticking sometimes its gone, but when the road again is not smooth it makes this ticking sound again. I hope you can help me. Thanks a lot.
