Wow how about instead of criticizing it would be nice to see comments that point out mistakes & give advice. Give him some credit for trying. Most of us learn from our mistakes & appreciate any help we can get from others, that's how we learn to do it right.
Just done one of these....to refit the springs I compressed the spring in a vice and held them in that position with two small tie wraps....put the caps on with snipe nose pliers then cut the tie wraps with snips...releasing tension....easy Peesy.....😂
So, long story short, I read 10 years old Threads online, watched a lot of rebuilding engine videos, download info about my small engine, tear down apart my engine thinking the piston rings were the problem, and no, thanks man. It's the valves
Thank you for taking the time to video this. I’m having a timing issue with a lawnmower (horrible snap back on the recoil). There’s plenty of videos on how to adjust OHV but none of the older automotive types that I could find. Much appreciated!
Nice job, that seal is the head gasket. Also that air filter is a crankcase breather. It vents the crank case kind of like a pcv valve. (Positive crankcase ventilation.). Good job setting your valve stem clearance.
My dad worked on lawn mowers about all his life and I seen him hold a valve shaft up with screw driver and use a file in there to take off so the valve closes properly.You did a great job.You are a smart guy.Wish I could do all the stuff you do.Plus you have such a good personality wow.
Although you may have a leaky valve, it is normal for the exhaust valve to start to open at bottom dead center. You should be inspecting the valves at top dead center.
LOL, just did this today on an old B/S from the 80s. Put it back together and now I have a self-propelled brush hog that I got for free out of the garbage! Interesting to see the "drainage guy" doing the same thing I just got done doing.
If the valve is not out to much you can file it in there and not have to remove head OR spring. Just lift the spring up with a big screw driver to get a small file in.
You just got to it on time as the valve seat will burn , your compression will be poor as well look at the soot as the engine is not running effeciently , its a good time to grind the seats with some paste to give it nice clean seats , also if you have a bench grinder it will remove sight amouts off the stem just to get your twelve thou for the exhaust valve clearence as its imperitive to have the proper clearence for proper engine running and tuning , thanks alot for your video its good for folk to see whats going on in the engine , all the best Post 10 and happy christmas folks
Really appreciate this video. Not many on YT to see for a novice like me. Going to give this a try; understand 1/4” from TDC and liked the one guys comment about not needing to remove the head; just file in place with thin file. Getting 18psi on a 12hp B&S. Took a long time to start, now won’t start so gotta try something.
Don't need u work,n on my engine ,,ur come but no cigar ,,my friend, lap valves then check clearance,,wheres ur degree wheel at,,to accurately set valve timing????
The exaust opening a little like that is by design to make it easier to pull over from my understanding. That's why you can't get a proper compression reading on these engines.
actually, almost any engine will specify more valve clearance for the exhaust valve, than the intake. The exhaust valve runs much hotter, thus, expands more. When hot, the clearances are more similar, if set cold, with a little more difference. Also, the exhaust valve seat "walks in" the exhaust valve more than the intake.
@@jbtvt How do you figure? Any 4-cycle engine runs the exhaust valve much hotter, and the exhaust valve face and seat erode more quickly. No matter what engine. A little more impact from extra lash is fine, the exhaust valve is lighter in weight, due to its smaller diameter. Besides, the exhaust valve loses clearance more rapidly, so a little extra clearance lets it come in, rather than go out of adjustment during use.
@@vincentrobinette1507 I'm telling you what the book says, take it or leave it. I know what most engines specify, this and all the other handful of Tecumseh engine's I've worked on have the same range for both valves.
@@jbtvt I was weaned on Briggs & Stratton. Slightly different specs, but, they're not super critical. Back in the day, if you've seen one small engine, you've seen them all!
Model 190000 in. .005-.007, ex. .007-.009 inches. Model 280000 in. .005-.007, ex. .009-.011. Inches! Armature air gap .010- .014 inches! Stock Briggs and Stratton power built 12.5hp anyways. The old 8hp on the mini chopper is in. .000- .000 inches and ex. .000-.000 inches
If the valve pusher its under the valve, so whay have Not briggs & stration made shim betwin the valve pusher and the valve, to Replement and get right clearanse Im thinkin of the same system if the camaxle resting over the valepusher when the Are shim there to replement, or the injektors of diesel engine have shim too Replement to.
Nice job but you did all that work why did you not clean the intake and exhaust valve seats with paste so you get a proper seating and reading ??? If they aren't clean especially the carbon on the exhaust valve you will always have that issue.
Hello my tractor roper rt13 fuel not arrived.. Carburator is new.. Carburator fuel ok 👌.. Cylinder not fuel.. Is posible cause to problem adjustig valve?thank you!
Let me explain before a know it all says something the older mowers that have a type of a sponge filter need oil you put them in a zip lock with about a cap of oil and rub it in the bag to coat the filter what he's showing is the pcv and it's normal to be covered in oil
Very bad advice.. You check valve clearance with the piston at the top of the compression stroke. If you check valve clearance with the piston at the bottom you're either at the end of the intake stroke and cam will be pushing on the intake valve, or you'll be at the start of the exhaust stroke and cam will be pushing on the exhaust valve. You have that engine in the start of the exhaust stroke. That's why the exhaust valve it starting to open and you have no clearance.
He did have clearance on the exhaust valve. You do not have to check the clearance at TDC you have to check it when the valve push rod is at the lowest point of the cam. This happens more than once in a cycle. TDC is for convenience as you can check both valves at once. It is not however compulsory
@@SuperDouginator How does one know that the engine is at TDC? Top of piston reaches the top twice in a cycle, is that correct? I would like to try this on my White Snowblower...lapping valves and checking lash, did I say that correctly?
Your engiine was very overheated at one time the counter bores for the valve seat on that side became warped. The only thing I've seen here that MIGHT help that is "staking in the valve seat". Mustie1 has a video about that. This procedure does not always work. It depends how bad the block was overheated.
Somehow I don’t really feel comfortable with this repair job. It seems kind of sloppy if you don’t mind my saying, even though this is a small engine, higher precision procedure must be followed. Otherwise you might end up with another problem afterwards.
Yes so not follow this with the up most respect this dude is lost I get mowers in my shop every day because of videos like this I'm sorry my dude but you have a lot to learn
