Replacing brakes on my 1988 Toyota 3000 lb lift. Given high cost of parts and labor, my Forklift would have been scrapped if not for me doing the job......guided by this video.
The mechanic featured in this video makes his job look easy (Which it is Not!) because he is talented and has years of experience, and it shows! He really banged this brake job out nicely and really efficiently! Great Job!
Biker Bri327 suppose to lubricate entire mechanism using different types of grease in a few certain spots. Practice is needed to apply right amount. Other than that pro.
+Metaxa 7 should have had the drums cut and shoes arcd in as well. this is not a pro. forklift brakes are no joke as this video makes it seem. if this job was done as shown in this video on a truck weighing more than 10k the results would be less than desirable.
What size socket to remove the hub,,, I'll have to buy one,,, looks like a dam 4",,, idk... Can you remember what size they are,,, it's a class 2 lift 5000 lb lifter,,, if that even matters...??? tia....
Appears very simple.... looks like 3/4 ton pick-up truck hubs and standard Chrysler 1970's rear brakes of a car, I would bet they are the same shoes and hardware too....
Yes you will have to fill the brake fluid and bleed the brakes anytime you open the brake line or change your master cylinder will cylinder if you have to bleed the brakes
@TheOtherWhiteBread0 I didn't say to necessarily change the bearings but looking at them in filling them with new grease would not be a bad idea. The Hub that was pulled off has two bearings one in the front and one in the back that are easily removed and packedwith new Grease
@TheOtherWhiteBread0 no its not filled with oil hence the axle seal, and is infact a packed bearing, any good mechanic would inspect the hardening on the bearing cups and condition of the bearing, wash and the repack with fresh grease
Guess I missed the bleeding the brakes which must be easier with the wheel off. Any tips for a one-man bleed. Most kits I have seen use air pressure from a car tyre and clearly a fork truck has solid tyres. I wondered if I could Mityvac some pressure for into the master cylinder or vacuum bleed at the nipple?
Sure! Our guy's tools are ancient but we offer a kit including the socket for the axle and the various spring tools plus bleeding kit here: store.intellaliftparts.com/p/00589867290.html
I usually replace entire backing plate ( already assembled). Comes with e brake cables Because WHO. Really checks the wear pads on backing plate NO ONE. There Normally worn out It is great instructional video
@@dankronenberg946 do you know how to change wheel cylinder ? i am working on a caterpillar right now the cylinder however is welded to the casting what are you supposed to do ?
Gracias por el vídeo, es muy bueno. Quisiera saber el nombre y la medida de la herramienta utilizada para extraer el cubo hexagonal ( la que usa con la palanca en el segundo 57 del vídeo) Saludos desde Caracas Venezuela
it's all good when the drum just pulls off easily but if it is stuck on and you have backed off the brakes with the ratchet and still no give,have also pounded on the drum.
If you are talking about the springs that hold the shoes to the backing plate the tool is called a Brake Shoe Spring Compressor. The TOLEDO one is part no. 310256 to suit spring washers 8-24 mm. Hope this helps.
Yes you can Purchase the springs and components sometimes are classified as a small parts kit You will need make model and serial number of the forklift
You can buy it separately, but that one is mounted on the handle end of a brake spring pliers. www.amazon.com/Steelman-42015-Brake-Spring-Pliers/dp/B07DBZLLM1
I'm no big fan of snap-on, but the BT11, BT12 and I think BT8 make these jobs SO much easier. The knock offs fight you the whole time. Other than that, save your money. EDIT: BT12 is great, some are cheap on ebay. BT11 wont fit over a lot of the forklift main spring anchors S6118A is the best spring retainer tool. Really bites in and holds the retainers. The 10mm for the brake lines are kind of soft, I've found that a Flank drive open end really grabs well. Vice grips can get you through as well, if you're careful. Good luck all!
dwight Phoenix most of us older mechs never have worn gloves, in 50 years of spanners never done me any harm, I just wash my hands before taking a piss
I like to put a little block of wood on top of the uninserted hub seal and hammer that block causing the seal to equally go in hub so that I don’t damage seal.
@@luismorejon7050 From my limited experience all auto and some industrial seal material is comprised of a softer metal substance for the outer material. I agree that using a piece of wood works well by moving or indexing the wood around the whole 360 degrees of the exterior of the seal, however if one does this on a frequent basis a inexpensive seal driver kit will be a time saver and you will have the full contact rather than risking damage if you strike to hard. Also a compothane or brass/aluminum hammer. Would be less risky than a standard ball peen steel surface.
