I don't know how many of these videos I've watched and never understood until this video excellent video the way you move the camera around so you can see the thing functioning is awesome now I completely understand
A little bit greasy, but one of the best explanations of how a square baler knotter works. I have had John Deere balers forever and nobody showed me how these work. Had to learn on my own.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. Look what you did for me. My baler went from skipping probably one every 15 bales to not skipping a single one in 390 bales this very evening! That was after making some adjustments earlier today based your video. God bless you brother!
Well done, you have explained the knotters with great detail, I have a NH 317 which was made here in Australia, the knotters are identical to yours, i will use your video to help me to get ready for hay season coming uo in December.
The good thing about baler knotters is that there are 2 of them. If one is working and knotting properly, but the other is not, look to the good one to see what is different, and possibly causing the problem on the one not working properly. That's the way I taught myself how to work on them years ago.
Great video the best of all that I've seen on these old bailers.your explanations are such a great guidance as I have learnt over time using my New Holland 66 that I brought 2nd hand. Yes it worked and no it didn't, when I looked at billhook adjustments and twine holder they had them as maximum adjustment (not good). Well looking further the twine tension plates where grooved which no longer applied enough tension. A build up of weld and grind smooth then adjust twine holder and billhook all went good. Hey I set 4 springs in the bale chamber to make the bale shape why I turned it over by hand and got good result. Top job happy hay making
Good video - thanks for sharing. The tucker finger adjustment is important too. We had to reset that on our baler this past summer. Hopefully we will have a video showing that adjustment in the future.
Keep in mind if you have switched to a round baler and only use the square baler once in a while and you run in a problem of missing bales, the knotters aren't always the problem. I ran into this problem and assumed that the reason for missed bales was the knotters but actually it turned out to be old twine. I was missing 90% of bales and adjusted the timing, adjusted the knotters, and sharpened the knives and then changed over to new twine in desperation and bang! Started hitting 100%. So lessons learned, if you don't use the baler yearly to keep fresh twine that is likely your problem and not the knotters.
greta video, I have an old New Holland. 11:00 my knife arm only catch one string of de bill hock, and the bill hock don't release the last one. i am gona try to bend the arm a little
Hey Tom have you had any luck yet working out the problem? Could you explain about where the break is on the hook and at what point in the knotter cycle. Cheers
I've got a 67 nh I've started to have a issue where I'll cycle the knotters it will tie fine then if I got into a row and get it loaded with hay I'm breaking knotter shear bolt and flywheel shear bolt needles r up in the knotters but the knotters haven't started anything when the bolt breaks I've adjusted timing and cycled it by hand needles enter at right time and leave at right time knotters tie a good knot but this is all by hand if I run tractor on Baler and empty it will cycle fine as well and tie good but when I load it up with hay is when I'm having issues anyone have any ideas what I'm missing
A few things come to my mind if your baler is running well by hand, and by PTO without any hay. Hay going in will create a 'load' or strain on the system. How much is too much for your machine? 1) Run at 540 PTO speed, and slow the tractor ground speed a little bit to allow the baler to work at a slower pace. 2) Is the windrow of hay too big for your machine. Your NH 67 is a small machine like my NH 68. Is the hay completely dry? 'Unconditioned' or tall stringy green hay will bind up a baler like trying to bale rope. 3) Are you using the right strength shear bolts? Maybe the machine would bale fine if the shear bolt held up? This is assuming the timing is, and stays correct while it makes bales. Ie., no super loose chains jumping a tooth to cause the plunger & bump stop to contact each other which will shear the bolt like it's supposed to. Pull the bump stop back and look for fresh contact marks. I knew of a baler where the plunger was actually 'bumping' the stop on it's way by, and the timing was good. The problem was the triangular stop on the needle swing arm was adjusted too far back when the bump stop bushing made contact with it. Adjust the triangular stop plate ahead with the 2 bolts. This, in turn pulls the plunger bump stop all the way out as the plunger goes by. I've heard of wrapping electrical tape around the bushing as a temporary way to make it bigger in diameter, which creates the same effect of pulling the bump stop out further. Hopefully you've already worked out the problem and will post your results here. Good luck, be safe, and happy haying!
@@travissmith5605 Thanks for the reply. I'll have to look for it. I hope it's the same as the shear bolt on the flywheel, because that's the only size I have.
never see an overgreased baler like this...brakes does not work and in 10 min of working you cant identify any detail because all is complete dirty..15 min of cleaning is needed
