Thanks for this video, you helped me traced or diagnosed the issue with my a/c blowing hit regardless or the direction of the thermostat ( red or blue). Cab was cooling and bunker blowing only heat, but that was the problem right there, your video was a game changer. 👍
I’m driving a2022 they do have it , it’s under the three screws you need to remove the lid on it and turn it and sure enough it worked (remove the lid)
My Sleeper gets no AC, freon lines under truck use to get cold and have condensation dripping, now no cold air comes out in Sleeper. Blender motor works (can see it moving from one notch to the other when temp dial is turned), brand new temp sensor under bunk, new blower motor and resistor in front. System showing to be properly charged. Front condesnser would freeze up like a block of ice when driving on south east with all the humidity. Someone told me it could be the Condesnser dirty or defuser valve, but really dont want to be changing out random parts.
@LatrellDaGod Nope, I replaced front blower motor and resistor, bought one of those refrigerant cans because it had a guage and system shows filled. Can't seem to find a diagram of the sleeper AC condenser assembly to plan my approach and get to the condenser. I'm OTR right now so will have to deal with it when I get back home, because can't just vent freon into atmosphere. Then will have to refill it. My plan is to get to the sleeper condenser and make sure it's clean, if it is, drain the freon from whole system, get all the o-ring seals for front and back assembly and then purchase two of those square block temperature things and replace them, maybe it's getting jammed up. Are you having same issue?
Yes my bunk is blowing warm air and now my can ac is not working at all. Gonna replace blower motor fan because it’s not coming on at all but I have no idea what to do about the bunk blowing warm air. Took to a TA they checked for leaks, charged the system and checked all fuses and everything was good. I hate to just throw parts at this but something has to give today
If blower fan is not working or it seems like no air is coming out but the blower fan noise is there, try keeping it on full blower and turn off ac and vent from outside (turn off cab recirculation) if air starts coming out, your core is freezing over. In that case what I did was leave it cycling from outside and as soon as air flow would decrease, I would switch AC off to allow it to defrost, then cycle back on after about 5-7 minutes. If blower is not working, Google map search for "volvo mack dealer" and call them about a blower motor. Take everything apart and leave the black cover on the blower motor (bag all the clips and bolts, throw dash bezel on top bunk) when you pull up to dealer to get the blower motor, unplug old and plug in new and slap the black cover back on. Took me less then 20 minutes for the stop and swap and then reassemble the dash later on down the road when time permits with schedule. As for back bunk, I noticed when truck is parked, it will blow cold air a few times here and there and I would check under the sleeper if freon lines are building condensation. The low pressure (thick line) would get cold, but the high pressure (thinner line) wouldn't. So at this point I would need to remove and replace that little block where freon lines plug in (think it's called defuser block or thermostat defuser) and hoping that will start cooling bunk condenser. When I will be replacing the rear one, I will do the front one as well, replacing all the O-rings, so when it's filled it's not leaking and I'm not taking it all apart again and refilling the system. I tried tapping on the thermostat under the sleeper and that's how I got the lower pressure line to get cooler, but still not sure if it's the rear one failing to open all the way or the front one, but the front condenser gets cold and fan moving air, prevents it from icing up. I was in south and stopped by Capital Volvo Truck in Alabama, $167 for fan and $112.92 for resistor (this age of truck I didn't want to take chance of it burning out new motor) Oh and I did replace the temperature sensor in sleeper $63.45 and not in dash, that DIDN'T help bring cold air back to sleeper, don't know if it's worth the $ but someone's got to be the guinea pig for the test.
@LatrellDaGod one other issue I had that I will disclose for others to be aware of, is that I have replaced the thick lower pressure hose that goes across engine from driver side to passenger side and plugs into the dash condenser. Mine was getting green stuff on it, like oil, I was also getting this sour type of smell in truck but would only notice it when I'm out of the truck for a few days at home and come back to truck. I thought it might be that freon leaking, I replaced it with a used one from recycled, that was a mistake because this one is getting oily as well. I will need to get a freon sniffer test done at AC shop to see if it's leaking, because if it is, that's another $370 and I would rather do a drain and fill only once after replacing all other parts. If anyone found a solution to that kind of a smell or had it, let me know what you found out about it. The closest I can identify that smell is like foil on teeth but on the nose. I thought it was the exhaust system and I replaced every gasket from turbo to tail pipe and still that smell exists (although I don't notice it after about 24 hours of being in the truck and don't know if it's associated in any way with freon leak or exhaust or maybe something leaking behind the fridge) because truck is super clean, all cushions and covers have been shampooed and washed.
Terence Oliver I have an 2013 vnl 670. I see everything thing in this video in my compartment, Just not the switch. Not even a hole which would insinuate that it broke off...
