How to fix your Jaguar Air suspension fault. BLU 14 

Very welcome

Excellent news. Finn👍😎

Thanks for watching and contributing Alan.👍

Glad it helped. And Thank you very much

Thanks Michael. You have no idea how relieved I was😁

Glad it helped

Glad it helped

Thanks 👍

Happy new year! These cars are of an age now where the majority will need this sorting if its not already been done. Unfortunantly many owners will throw in the towel as they will assume its the early warning of complete suspension melt down and huge cost

As long as the bolt is not seized, its quite an enjoyable little project👍

Turns out its all pretty straight forward. So far at least 🤞

@@ToTheGarage Oh, alloy bolts. The joy, the joy...

@@hewyn1 I genuinely don’t know of any good reason to spec these Alloy bolts on anything other than light aircraft. I can only imagine the pump supplier bid to win the work based on weight. (First all alloy car) The bolt weight is totally inconsequential on this giant of a car ( all alloy or not) but would show up a fractional percentage on the pump weight😔

Good tip! - I shall file that away for the inevitable time I need it. 🙂

Glad its been of some help

Hi Tom👍 Thanks for the recommendation. Your comments are always valued and interesting. I am taking some tape with me on my next trip out with BLU in order to experiment with the mystery wind noise. Stay safe pal.

You and me both Gary

Thanks Gina👍

Glad you enjoyed it

Cheers John

Very good point Richard. In fact you have made me wonder if I should whip them back out now🤔

Thank you kindly

Thanks Bart

Thanks Bart👍

Hi Terry. Glad you enjoyed it. I will add some LH drill Links to the video description👍

Top additional tips s palmgre. Thank you

Great Tip re earths Phil. This is one of the very first. Aluminium cars and the corrosion at electrical contact points is more. prevalent than on the. steel cars👍 As the Sat nav is now quite out of date, is it possible that your home or wherever you are inputting the route, is not on its map and therefore it cant find a road to get out of the field where your house/office is?. Ive had that problem.

@@ToTheGarage Just for info, regarding the Sat Nav - "Unable to Calculate Route". i have been told that this is probably a firmware concern. I know that the Nav unit was changed by the garage where I bought the car. I think the head unit and the NAV unit may have to be matched. I'll update when I find out more.

Thanks Bill

Glad it helped!

A top tool tip Thomas. Thanks👍

Thanks for sharing Nigel. Nice to know it was not just me😁

Thank you and good luck with yours👍

Thanks Steven

Cars are easy. Corrosion is a pain.

Wow. That would have been cool on mine.

Why not suggest that you take it to an independent Jag specialist with some basic software to calibrate the ride height. (You literally just tell the car what standard height you want) And if it rises and maintains its composure for a day or two, that you will buy it. And pay for the calibration on top of the agreed price. If its all a bit of a disaster, then the seller has learnt the answer (at his expense) to the question every prospective buyer should be asking, or you may decide that now you know the issues you could agree a different price. There are plenty of nice examples out there though so dont rush into buying this one unless its a rare spec.

Nick, I have just finished the refurb in this video, John's video was priceless. The journey is less hard when someone has scouted the path ahead. It took me about 3 hours, but I spent a lot of time cleaning and de-rusting other bits of gear around the area. The kit was 20 or 25£ and came within days. Something you might try is to check alternator voltage. The X350/X358, have an intelligent alternator, which changes charge voltage depending on factors such as temperature. The full operating range is 13.8 to 15.5v. If ambient is less than 15C, the alternator will charge between 14.5 and 15.5V. My alternator (broken one) was peaking at 17V and this was causing all kinds of ghost faults (for me, main ones where suspension and gear box) The gear box one made my heart sink, but it turns out that the box is healthy. If you have a multi meter, check the voltage between the main black fuse in the engine bay fuse box and the engine hoist bracket. If you haven't got a multimeter, it is possible to put the car in diagnostic mode by pressing and holding (for 5 secs) the PHONE button and the one directly opposite it (MENU) You will be presented with a key pad. The code is 1971 ENTER. Select "Manual" then "Display", then "PWM.." This will give you a screen which shows the voltage(either with/out the engine running). If the fault corresponds with a spike in voltage above 15.5V, you may have an earth fault or a bad alternator. When exploring this diagnostic mode DO NOT UPDATE SOFTWARE - it will kill your car and a main dealer will have your eyes out to reset it. Hope this is of some use. You can see the DTC codes that your car is flagging in one of the other screens. Check all of the engine bay earths, they are famous for failing. I have ran new earths and it has made the car much more reliable. It was probably an intermittent earth fault that killed my alternator's internal control circuit.

😊 thanks I cut out the bad language between attempts👍

@@ToTheGarage 🤣

@@ToTheGarage And mopped up the blood...

Really frustrating😖 but really satisfying to have the end result immediately working well👍

Thank you kindly

The most common source of the fault is just that the system was unable to generate a full air tank, or lift the car to its correct ride height within (I think its) 10 seconds of receiving a command to do so. So it is possible to get a code concrete slab motorways for instance because every time the system generates some air, the car needs it to correct a big axle movement. So all may be fine. If not then new piston ring on the compressor should do the trick. I wouldn't worry unless you start to get the message regularly👍

Hi Janet. ✋No the car just sorted itself out. As long as you don't remove or replace the height sensor attached to the suspension arm, you should be fine.

The shocks themselves should not have any effect on the ride height, so I would suspect that the height sensor has been knocked or has given up altogether. It only needs the front or the rear to go wrong in order for both ends to act irrationally as they are trying to keep the car (what it imagines to be) Level rather than a specific height. When you set the reference height using your diagnostic kit, is the car on a nice flat surface? If not then that may be part of the issue.

Screen of the car in this case Edward.

Its because they are ALLOY bolts and reduce the weight of the compressor. Which was important for the project. (All suppliers told to save weight for the first all alloy car). But they of course have no impact on the whole car weight. They just make it difficult for us to service the compressor😁

Hi Jishin Even with 20-inch rims, the rear wheels should not collide with the bodywork under any circumstances. Either the wheels are aftermarket and incorrect offset, or the car has wheel spacers fitted, or it has been lowered via adjustments to the ride height offset values using a high-end OBD2 reader writer, or the ride height sensor is damaged or modified.

HI F S. Im sure that the official line would be to disconnect the battery to change the head light lamps. I would not disconnect for any of the minor plug in items. I Disconnected for this one because a) I knew someone would comment if I didnt😁 and b) because I didn't know if the air suspension might react to me letting the air pressure out by trying to fire the compressor when I was not ready for it. It didnt😁

@@ToTheGarage that makes sense, i was kind of concerned if should disconnect to remove the wing mirrors power folding to have a fix but honestly seen some comments out there that disconnecting the battery itself can cause some problems if not done properly. I wont bother than... thanks for letting me know!

Sounds like an issue with the brake servo or a leaky vacuum pipe connected to it

Its. probably the same root cause of error as on mine. The suspension is all working as it should. Its just the compressor takes longer to re fill the tank, &/or achieve the requested ride height. Sorry I don't have the part number for the whole compressor. SNG Barrat website will have it though. If. the compressor is still operating then the only likely issue is the piston ring.

See my reply to Nick Harrison if the ring doesn't sort your problem. I had a combination of the ring and an electrical problem - details above.

Thanks

the piston ring. in your compressor will be harder and seal less well in cold weather

Saleen, see my comment to Nick Harrison regarding alternator control- it may be that you only see the problem when the alternator is in high charge 14.5-15.5V which it switches to when the temp falls below 15C. I had this and changed the alternator because of it. It causes other faults to ghost flag. It could also be thermal expansion/contraction as John says.

Its possible that the engine mounts may be in need of replacement. But the Lion engine would normally twitch more a fraction above idle (900 rpm maybe) What does anyone else think?

The X350 2.7tdi has active engine mounts which harmonise with the engine below 1000rpm, after that they de-activate. A defective one gives a drone when idle, but it disappears when you pull away. I unplugged the defective unit and the noise/vibration went. If your car has active mounts, unplug them and see what happens. they are not connected to the diagnostic system, so you won't generate error flags.

Sounds like a leaky union or airbag on that corner

@@ToTheGarage hopefully just the union. The air bag replacement doesn't look a difficult job.... Just expensive 😂

Same as me do you have any help pleasee!!!

No problem

Sounds. like a severe leak. (check the tube that enters at the top of each. strut with some soapy water)

I try the soap water and front driver side has a leak but the air comes out of the electrical plug. Not from the tube or fiting coming from the compressor. The plug its in the center and the air fitting is like an inche away from the electrical plug. Strange I know. I already purchased a new compressor.. Change all bushings .. And running out of cash really fast. I cant leave my 2004 JAGUAR XJR SUPERCHERGED at the side of my house to die there. I refuse to let this beautiful car to die like that. Thats why I wanna ask the experts (you) for and advise. Thank you for your rapid response. And I see your videos. Very well explained and patience. Thank you again

@@kabusanchez5622 If the leak is in the air suspension unit, there is one last ditch fix you could use. I saw this on a US web site on a different vehicle with air suspension, but I made a mental note of it. The leak in question was caused by the rubber bladder, which is inside the air suspension arm, perishing slightly - this is where cracks appear in the rubber. On the jag, you can't see the bladder unless you remove the dust cover. He used emergency liquid tyre weld and repaired it. He actually injected the tyre weld into the solenoid manifold - which I would not recommend. But, as a last resort, you could try this into the top air inlet of the faulty unit. He claimed that the repair was still good after 6 months. I must stress that I haven't tried this myself, but if I knew that the leak was in the bladder, then the unit is a wreck, I would try it, but I would make sure there was no risk of fluid getting into the rest of the system. Proceed with caution!!! If you do try it, give some feedback and get a replacement unit asap

@@philcanny6356 thank you . I will try that. I let you know whats the result. But how much of that weld should I add and where can I find it?

@@philcanny6356 is that like Fix a Flat..?