This video explains in detail how to fix the problem when your Samsung refigerator ( RF4287HA or RF4287HARS model ) Freezer door is icing up and freezes solid and needs drain fixed and de-iced.
Great video on how to defrost the freezer and the coils. I would like to suggest that if people have this problem it might be caused by the drain tube being clogged. If you defrost the freezer and the water does not drain from the pan you will need to check the drain tube. This tube can be accessed from the rear of the freezer at the bottom. My accesses panel was secured by 5 screws. Behind this cover you will see a white drain tube. You can remove this tube (if you still have water in the pan have a cup ready to catch the water) and clean it to make sure that there are no obstructions (mine had a small paper in it that clogged the drain holes causing the water to back up freeze).
This is a very helpful video which fixes the problem. Two more steps need to be added. I would recommend pouring HOT water in the drain area to melt any ice that might be lodged in the drain tube. Second, you need to remove the back lower cover and clean out the two drain tubes.
Jim Portincaso sad to say it’s not a fix. The actual fix is to level the fridge. The front wheels on this fridge should NOT be on the ground. They’re adjustable, turn them until the front wheels are about a half inch or so above the ground. Raising it and having it tilted slightly towards the back makes water flowing to the drain much freely.
IMPORTANT ADDITION: After doing this twice I investigated further. Behind the rear hatch exposing the compressor and drain pan, I decided to pull the two drain tubes that drained into the condensation pan. What I found was the root cause of the freezing in the first place. Both tubes had some sort of "pinched valve?" from the factory. Neither had been completely opened from the factory. To further complicate the drainage, those already closed "valves" had further clogged due to mold. All this caused the drain tray under the freezer coil to freeze, causing overflow to the freezer floor and eventually onto my kitchen floor. I have photos of my clogged tubes but I'm not sure how to upload.
Our exact problem, I guess those little valves are in there to restrict airflow, but man... whoever designed that system should have seen this happening sooner or later in the real world. I corrected ours today. The actual iceplug inside the drainpipe itself was a tough bugger to thaw out, but using hot water finally took care of that. photos.app.goo.gl/aqMHUikUgn1vVwBM6
They are duckbill valves. They allow a metered amount of water to flow. Over time. the plastic hardens and they split usually deforming, catching trash and then clogging up totally.
Ive had this issue for quite a while but for your ice issue on the floor... save yourself the mess and just lift the ice sheet in the freezer while still frozen! A small paring knife in the front will lift the whole sheet out. Good video!!
Our solution as been a rubber mallet to break up the ice and then sweep it out with a broom. Now, maybe I can actually get back there and fix the root cause. We're also having low or no ice production from the ice maker. Not sure how it can be related, but maybe?
I love RU-vid University. I followed your instruction and fixed my freezer drawer. Mine is not the same model, but same concept with what went wrong. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you so much for the excellent and detailed video. I followed it step by step to fix our refrigerator. I only had one additional problem and that was the drain for the drip pan below the evaporator coils was blocked. From the back of the refrigerator I removed the drain tubes and found the rubber constrictor boot had swollen with age and wasn’t allowing free flow of condensation down into the lower drip pan. I simply trimmed a bit off the bottom of the restrictor boot. I found the same problem in the refrigerator section drain tube so trimmed it too. I didn’t have excessive ice build up on the freezer evaporator coils so the defroster heater seems to be working ok. Just the drain tube was blocked. Great video and many, many thanks!
I had the same issue with the fridge department coils freezing up - the duckbill at the bottom of the drain tube had lost flexibility and aged shut. Is there a separate drain tube for the freezer section? I just remember 2 drain tubes when looking behind the access panel on the bottom back of the fridge. One for the fridge section and one coming from the ice maker.
@@rgrams1 I believe there are only the two. As I write this, it has been around year since I had the “freezing problem” and we haven’t had any problems since. BTW, thank you for clarifying the proper terminology for the “duckbill” at the bottom of the drain tube.
Well done dude! Your explanation of each step was clear and your video showed everything I needed to see to do the job. You save us a lot of swearing and money. Thanks
Excellent video. I'm about to do mine for th first time, but I'll use a pump spray bottle with hot water and shop vac to vacuum up the water to melt the ice. I'll also unplug the whole unit while working on it.
We have the exact same model so this was very very easy to follow. Thank you for posting!! Another person mentioned using a putty knife or something similar to break and lift up the sheet of ice on the bottom; this trick saved a lot of time. I did a combination of pouring a little hot water on the near 2 inch thick glacier of ice on the bottom, then waiting until I heard some cracks/shifting, and then using the putty knife to slice under the glacier and pry up sheets. I also pushed some rags in between the drip tray and the coils gently with a screwdriver so they could soak up whatever water remained. This all worked to remove the immediate problem but I am bummed the issue isn't completely fixed; we will have to pull out the entire fridge to access the freezer defrost line and blow out whatever caused the clog, or maybe the root of this is something else entirely.....
Legend!!! For approximately two years now I have been defrosting the underneath of my freezer once a month I have been looking for help on RU-vid and just now come across your video clip - I can’t thank you enough great work. I’ve just completed the job in just over an hour and now we’ll wait for a months time to see how this went - I have high hopes :)
Biju Joseph 1 second ago I did the steps mentioned above, but it did not fix the issue. (1) I had to go behind the back, take out cover & carpet clean the coils (2) There are 2 drain outs in rear, They had blockage due to chemical buildup in water. you have to take out & clean them individually.
Thanks for the video!! I took the freezer apart, thawed it out, put it back together without my husband's help. It was great!! It's quite now, the noise is gone. Took 3.5 hours, took slow time to thaw it out, but it was great! thx
This was a great video. Our fans (one or both) stopped working and we called Samsung. They told us to pull the fridge out from the wall so there was a 1" clearance all the way around and if that didn't fix the problem we would have to call a service man. Hahahaha. My husband is a do it yourself-er and he couldn't figure out how to pull the back panel from the back of the freezer. This video had a lot of great tips for getting everything out of the way. Yes, we were all iced up and the ice was stopping the fans. Once we got it all thawed out, it worked perfectly. Thanks for taking the time to teach us!!
Thank you. I did all the steps and cleaned the drain plug. The whole project took one hour. I turned it on and set the 2 hour power freezer, and the freezer had already dropped 2 degrees within minutes. I will double check it in about two hours.
After inside of freezer has been defrosted remove lower panel from bottom back of unit and locate the drain tube (a flimsy rubber 6" or so tube that reaches into the evaporation pan). Pull it down (off) and check/remove clogged debris. Very simple.
Thank you so much. This video was super handy. I ran into the same issue and searched a few places and finally landed on this youtube video of yours. Without this video, I would have been toast. Thanks again.
This video saved me lots of time and money. Thanks for posting! I have the exact same unit and was able to complete the job in about 3 hours. Very helpful. Edit: After clearing the ice from the drain pan, water still would not drain, so I just kept applying heat from a hair dryer directly on the drain hole, which eventually melted the ice clogging the tube and drained the water.
Hey @posterboyz, and did this problem ever come back after you completed the thorough cleaning of the ice from the drain pan? Is it draining correctly now? Did it clog again? Please reply soon. And thanks.
@@cma8165 it has been two years since the fix and it has not returned but you've got to get all the ice out, drain line included. The original cause of ice formation was leaving the freezer door cracked open overnight. The drain line froze and it got worse and worse until the big thaw.
Great video! This is IT, along with the added suggestion from Brian Gillespie, below, to clear the drain with wire to prevent recurrence of the problem. Also, I used a hair drier at the front edge of the ice sheet instead of hot water, then was able to pry up the entire two-foot mass with a silicone and wooden spatula and move it to the sink in chunks. Thank you so much for the clarity of this video!
sorry to be so off topic but does someone know of a way to log back into an Instagram account?? I was stupid lost my account password. I would love any tips you can give me.
@Gannon Gus I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and im trying it out atm. Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
I have the same refrigerator and this is exactly my problem. I just cleared out the layer of ice from the bottom of the drawer. Thanks for the tutorial on how to fix the issue. Thumbs up!! 👍🏼
I'm a tech with 10+ years working on these units. #1 The clear ice on bottom is caused by clogged drain under the evap coils. Simply defrosting the ice under the evap coils won't solve your problem. You have to put about 6 inches of wire down the drain hole till you "clear it" and the water that's pooled drains (failure to do so will result in this problem coming back within a few weeks). #2 Having frost build-up along door slides is usually caused by the door being open. Big problem on french doors. Even if your door looks closed take a look at the sides and you'll see a 1/8" gap letting outside air in causing a snowy-frosty ice build-up. #3 Don't buy a Samung! LG! Kenmore! or a Whirlpool! The cold hard fact is everything being made nowadays is JUNK with a very few exceptions. The old saying was "You get what you pay for". That saying nowadays is backwards. Nowadays, the more you pay for a refrigerator, the fancier you get it - the more problems you will have and the more it will cost you to fix. Take Kenmore for example, the old Kenmore refrigerators were GREAT, now they simply make junk and are duking customers out of their hard earned money selling them total crap. I recently bought a new refrigerator because I moved into a new house. I bought a very plain, freezer on top, small and cheap ($350) GE refrigerator that uses a mechanical timer not multiple control boards. My $350 refrigerator will outlast EVERY SAMSUNG, LG, WHIRLPOOL and KENMORE refrigerator out on the market and when it does break 15 years from now GUESS WHAT!!!!? I got a timer in my truck that cost me $4.00 and I'll fix it! OMG, I'm sorry - I've gone on a rant! Amana has a few good refrigerators too. (But just a few - buy the lower end models).
So I have a Samsung that is 3 years old and it stopped cooling and freezing and no certified tech in my area to fix and because I can't find bill of sale Samsung isn't working with me on a part that I've been told that has a 5 year warranty ! Any ideas on what to do? Where to look for an inexpensive tech to fix it.
Brian Gillespie agreed lol!!! I did have to take it a step to the back and clear out the ice that did drip into the pan in the lower right corner buy the evap coils with a wet dry vac. I basically unplugged the refrigerator and waited 18 hours before I started working on it. Once everything melted the noise went away and hopefully stays that way. Is the real issue the defrost sensors go out? Your right about the door not sealing 100% which does cause slight condensation inside around the door. The more you pay, fancier the parts, more problems you'll face! Should have kept the old Ken more.
I arrived to that conclusion after my 17 year ARISTON broke down... i got a SAMSUNG NO FROST (cheapest model) and NOISE NOISE NOISE NOISE !!! More technology = MORE NOISE and problems! Going to return it and buy a FROSTY cheapest fridge i can buy!
Oh yeah Brian Gellespie! Someone who actually knows what they are talking about. This guy's video surely helped, but it did not solve the problem like your comment did! Thanks bro!
Nice video. It sucked having to empty most of the drawers to remove them, but in the end it was worth it and the fridge/freezer got a good cleaning/vacuuming. I used a hair dryer to loosen the ice sheet in the bottom, gave the sheet of ice a few good whacks and used a plastic putty knife to get it out. I also put the freezer in forced defrost mode to clear some of the ice off of the cooling coils, as well as taking the hair dryer to them and the drain tray. I only needed a little bit of hot water to clear the little bit of a clog in the drain itself. In retrospect I should've put a short piece of copper wire down the drain a little bit attached to the defrosting coil, that would most likely keep this from ever happening again. Oh well, next time...
First of all the biggest mistake you made was you never unplugged the fridge. Your second mistake is you claimed this is a fix, but it’s not. It’s only a clean up. The reason this Samsung 4door or 3 door freeze up is because of a leveling problem. When everyone gets this fridge delivered and placed in the kitchen, it’s usually left as is sitting on its wheels instead of its legs.This fridge has to be raised from the front only. By turning the adjustable legs in the front counter clockwise, raise the fridge about a half inch to about 3/4 inches off the ground. The wheels on the front of this fridge should NOT be on the ground!!! Believe it or not, by raising the front and having it slightly tilted back makes the melted ice drain properly into the evaporator hole when it goes into automatic defrost mode. This problem occurs on other Samsung models in the upper part of the fridge causing the fan to hit the ice build up. Once you do a force defrost, then you open it up and remove any remaining ice debris, using hot water in a spray bottle to remove excess ice is way better and safer than using a hairdryer that can melt the plastic casing inside the fridge. Don’t forget to pour hot water in the drain hole to melt any frozen ice. After that, raise the front legs by turning them COUNTER clockwise until the front wheels are about a half inch off the ground. Read your manual on how to raise the legs. It’s quite easy, there is one of two ways to do it. Either use a flathead screwdriver and insert it into the slots on the plastic part of the legs and turn or a pair of pliers. What I’m telling you to do is a PERMANENT fix! Not a temporary one like your video. Many people are upset at Samsung for this but it’s really a mistake on their part for not informing the customer in the manual to level it the way I explained. It’s a good fridge! This leveling problem causes some Samsung’s to freeze up near the fan in the upper part of the fridge and on some it causes the ice maker to freeze up and in your case the bottom freezer. I hope many customers read this if they have the same issues with their Samsung fridge. Good day to you.
Dude you are a stud. I am so glad I read down here in the comments. This is exactly the fix I need. I have already defrosted the top section a few times...and in fact once I had to replace the entire back section of the fridge because the "Hair Dryer" actually melted the foam insulation. So I like your spray bottle suggestion as well. And most of all the raising up of the front wheels. Thanks so much for your comments.
Hi , can you please help me. I have similar fridge and it’s freezing all our food in fridge compartment. I don’t know what wrong with it. I shut it off for whole day and used blow dryer but it’s still freezing all the items. Do you know what the problem is ?
Here is the exact problem with this fridge. When the bottom bin is put in or pushed back it blocks the flow of air in the freezer thus causing the ice to build up on the coil. The heat strip is suppose to come on and defrost the ice on the coil. This heat strip does work and does come on. However the heat strip is programmed to stay on for 45 minutes. Since the ice on the coil is now so thick from the bin blocking the airflow the heat strip does not have enough time to thaw the coil. Fix #1 and this is a fix Samsung would need to do -- reprogram the board so the heat strip stays on longer. Diy Fix---- Drill holes in the back of the bin( the bin where you put your food so that air will flow and not be resticted. Keep the freezer at zero degrees. Being kept at zero will allow less ice build up on the coil, so that when the heat strip does come on it has enough time to defrost the coil. PROBLEM SOLVED
Thank you very well explained. My fridge has been blowing frost in the frezer section. All the food is frozen but frost its all on top and parts of the drawers. Would that be the same thing? My freezer panel recomends to keep it in -2F. Can I still change it to 0 ? Thank you🙏
Oh my goodness! That's a lot of work. I'm not an HVAC Tech. Why wouldn't your warranty cover this problem? Also, does Samsung know about this problem? Not buying a Samsung, after all. These manufacturers should be ashamed of themselves.
One who is waiting for His Return just went through the same BS with Samsung. They actually make a replacement kit to fix the design flaw. Once I told them I had pictures of the ice and the mistakes in design and mentioned the damage to our hardwood floor, Samsung went right away to "it comes with a 1 year warranty. I'll never buy another Samsung product ever again
Wow thanks so much for doing this! We have been having this problem and every time we deice the bottom we think we have fixed the problem never realizing we had to do more than just the ice on the bottom!
Samsung came out with a fix. It’s a small metal tab that wraps around the heating element and hangs down into the drain tube. When the defrost element gets hot so does the tab and it keeps ice from sealing the drain opening. New refrigerators have this. It can be added to older units.
What is this item called? Part #?, and where do you get one? I guess since this unit was a replacement from LOWE'S due to so many people having problems & only ONE tech for area..LOWE'S decided cheaper to give everyone a brand new fridge (with same issues /#boggle. Thank you for your post. Helpful!
Excellent step by step. I was able to follow your steps and complete the task! I am not super handy. Usually I would require adult supervision on a project like this and I didn't (58 yo), Thank you!!
I just did this exact fix on our Samsung , however on the back side of the fridge there is an access door that you can remove and clean out the drain tubes and drain pan. The tubes come apart and you will see where they get clogged up. super easy to clean out and fix.
Thank you so much for making this video it was really helpful to us in solving this problem. After reading our manual trying to figure out how to turn off the freezer only portion so it would defrost on its own and finding out that was not possible. I even called Samsung to find out how to do that and I was told that was not an option so your method works even if I think this is a huge design flaw on Samsungs side. Thanks again great video.
Thank you for the video. Had the same problem... just kept taking ice out of the bottom pan in the freezer, but didn’t go behind the panel to defrost the coils and more importantly... the drain pan below the coils. This slopes from the outside edges into the center and down a drain hole to I assume a condensation drip pan below. Mine was all full of frozen ice and access to the drain hole prohibited. Melted and cleaned out the tray and ran a zip tie down the drain hole to assure it was open to draining. Geez.... I hope that finally fixes it!
Thank you . Great root cause solution The only thing I would add is that my drain plug was completely frozen shut, so I focused my air dryer in the drain hole for a longtime in conjunction with adding hot water until opened. I also opened the back of the frig bottom panel ( 3 screws) and removed /opened up two drain hoses (poor design) I’m assuming one is for ice maker and the second is for bottom freezer
Were you able to stick anything in the drain holes from inside of the fridge? Not too long ago, I followed similar video how to "defrost" the top part, yet not much detail on how to CLEAN the DRAIN tube.. And I tried to stick a wire in there, but no luck, almost as if there was no hole!! Thanks..
numberxx7 you should be able check the drain if water runs thru. I would recommend opening back of frig bottom panel and remove and check the two drain hoses... in my case the robber was almost sealed shut
@@SS-vw3rp Thank you.. I will do it... I was just really taken aback, that I could not even stick a thin wire down the drain inside of the fridge... Anyway, it is gonna take couple of weeks before I get to it but I will report.. Thank you!
This was great!! I have a similar fridge where ice was forming at the bottom of the freezer. Took apart and thawed out the tray below the coils, cleared the tubes and reassembled. Was a ton of ise at the bottom of that tray and both tubes were clogged. Seems to be draining fine now. I did notice, however, that the defrosting sensor has been sheered off the ceiling of the freezer though. Wondering how this has been affecting my unit.
Great video, thank you, I was able to take care of this without my husband's assistance. Now to figure out why the fridge keeps sending out morse code sounds every 10-15 minutes. I will never buy a Samsung again, loudest, most annoying and obnoxious refrigerator I have ever owned.
Thx for this. Almost same unit. Same setup - followed your steps - hope it solves it for now. (I also assumed I had the drawer overloaded so I tossed the older food to allow air to better circulate. Thanks!
I did the steps mentioned above, but it did not fix the issue. (1) I had to go behind the back, take out cover & carpet clean the coils (2) There are 2 drain outs in rear, They had blockage due to chemical buildup in water. you have to take out & clean them individually. Thanks for the video. Maybe you can add apart2 video about cleaning Drainout
@NO4DS4ME Followed your video and it walked me through exactly like you said! Two differences... My clearances to get the drawers out seemed way more tighter and challenging but with some courage and elbow grease I got them out. The next difference was the panel at the very back seemed to be "frozen/glued" in one side. That was very scary to continue to pull slowly. After that it was just a matter of patience and time. Hot water worked the best. (I had no water or ice on my bottom floor of the fridge). The panel that covers the coil was very resistant to get back into place. I am not sure if the ice had attached the cover and coil together and when I pulled it out it looked to be not at 90 degrees. Anyway... with some muscle I pushed it all into place and checked for the fan to kick in before putting the drawers into place. Way easier to put it back together!!!! Lighted a few candles, made it up a few prayers and this morning everything was back to normal! Meaning food was frozen and the wife thought I was a hero! Even though she saw me watching your video all along. :} Thank you so very much for taking the time to video your process! I watched a few videos before throwing myself at it and couldn't have done without your instructions!
I don't have this model, but after 6 years of issues. I've found not only it needs to be level, but it needs to be tilted back a hair (rollers not touching the floor). Their is adjustment instructions in your manual or just go on youtube.
We have same issue with our four-year old Samsung french door refrigerator with the bottom freezer. Defrosting only works for a few weeks (if that) before water is leaking all over the floor again. The clogged drain isn't accessible without completely taking apart the inside of the refrigerator, which we are unwilling to do. When paying over $2,000 for a refrigerator, you shouldn't have to keep taking it apart or trying to figure out how to insert a copper wire into the tube to stop the leaking. Love the Samsung in every other way but I wouldn't buy another one.
I'm happy with my Samsung refrigerator except for the ice dam that builds up. This video is helpful but how would this stop the icing from recurring? We just break it all out and clean up the mess every few months.
Nice video, but you missed the real issue. The reason was because the drain tube is clogged with debris. when that happens the drain pan dumps the excess water on the freezer floor. when the fridge goes into defrost the frozen Ice melts and drips on the kitchen floor. Sometimes just cleaning out the drain tube is sufficient. Other times you might need to add and extension to the heater. The extension allows the heater to melt any Ice that is frozen in the drain tube. I'm an appliance tech.
So I defrosted my fridge for a day and took off the panel in the freezer and the drain pan was full of water. I see a hole in the middle of the drain pan, but I can't see where it leads to or how to unclog it. Thank you for your help.
YES, THIS VID DOESN'T HIT THE REAL ISSUE. ANOTHER THING I NOTICED IS THE DRAIN DESIGN HAS 2 LITTLE SLITS. I CUT THESES TO AVOID THEM GETTING GUMMED UP AS EASILY.. I HAVE SEEN THE WIRE MOD FOR OTHER MODELS AND AM WONDERING IF IT WORKS FOR THIS ONE AS WELL. IF SO, SHOULD I JUST RUN IT UP INTO THE DRAIN FROM THE BOTTOM? I NOTICED A TUBE OFF THE CONDENSER IS GOOD AND HOT AND WOULD WORK WELL.
william Gamble as above the issue is the ice but the number one problem is not the defrost cycle which happens anyway every 8hours but the drain hole which you discovered, the drainining water runs down that hole in a pipe into a pan behind under the fridge/freezer and evaporates with the help of a pan and the hot element of the compressor tubes. Now thats how it gets rid of the condensated water in the fridge/freezer but your issue now is the heating defrost element does not touch the frozen ice in the drain hole and it glogs and the water cant drain and ends up on your kitchen floor. Samsung should recall their units under warrenty and fix this with an extended element or wire down the drain hole or if its outa warrenty you may twist a thick copper wire arround the black heating element and down the hole and everytime it defrosts it will also melt the ice in the hole and you will never have water on the kitchen floor again. If you read this far here is a tip just for you, if you are doing this your self you can put the fridge freezer in a forced defrost mode for 20min. Push the Power Freeze and the Fridge temp buttons at the same time hold for 8secs, numbers will go out then push the Fridge temp button twice, will display FF then FD it will sound and alarm for 20min when it stops turn off the unit and attemp to remove cover dont force it the ice is holding it. Try a second defrost cycle if it wont let go, if not and no ice has melted yet your defrost element might be also a culprit let it defrost over a day with doors open and do the repair when cover is removed
Thanks for the Video. I have/had the same problem. The amount of ice on the bottom could have sank the Titanic! Waiting now to see if I was able to fix. :)
Note about turning back on after fully thawed and at room temperature (my refrigerator is Samsung RF4287HARS): After servicing both the refrigerator section (installing kit* for insulation strips on the aluminum pan behind the evaporator, a new heater clip that extends further into the drain hole, and two new drain tubes at lower back of refrigerator), and the lower freezer section (removing the cover over the evaporator for inspection and assurance that the heater clip is properly in the drain hole - mine was misaligned from factory installation), note the following: I had my refrigerator unplugged for 24 hours, all food removed, doors open. Upon plugging it back in, I was initially very concerned because only the refrigerator was beginning to cool back down and the freezer was not. I tried two methods of reset: 1. Reset the refrigerator by pressing and holding for over 5 seconds the ‘Power Freeze’ and ‘Power Cool’ buttons simultaneously until the panel started flashing (some models may chime). 2. Reset the whole refrigerator by unplugging the refrigerator for 5 minutes and then plug back in. I then just had to be patient. Turns out, the refrigerator had to cool down first, almost to my temperature setting (34 F) and THEN the freezer began to cool and within a few more hours it slowly reached my setting (-4 F). (Reset step #1 above should be all you need to try.) * This kit was available from Amazon; Search “DA82-01415A Refrigerator Water Leak Service Repair Kit Compatible with Samsung Water Leakage Assembly Replacement Parts DA82-01415A, AP5957964, PS1005968“. This fit my Samsung RF4287HARS refrigerator.
U may also wanna check the tubing that drains that water to the bottom pan. This tubing is accessed from the back. There are 2 of them. They are grey maybe 1” and just pop out. Sometimes they get clogged with dirt.
Could save a lot of time by simply popping the rails out and removing the entire bottom drawer. It is made to easily remove the drawer so that you can move the fridge through doorways.
@@zheyangwu8461 If you own the fridge, read the owners manual that came with it. All slide rails are designed with a little locking tab that can be squeezed to pull the rail attached to the drawer out of the guide that is attached to the refrigerator.
Thanks for the video! I'm having a problem with ice accumulating under the flex draw and can't figure out how water is getting in there. I think this may be a different problem, maybe another drain that's clogged further up. Any ideas where to look?
I have this problem also where it builds up ice on the bottom, mostly on the right middle side. I have no dripping on the floor though. Fridge/freezer is only about 3 years old. Would never buy a Samsung again. Anyway, watching this guy thaw the ice is painful when it's the easiest thing to do. I sprayed a solution of alcohol, water and salt onto the sheet of ice. After a few minutes I was able to use a metal spatula and the whole thing came off as one sheet of ice, didn't even need towels. I'm not buying into the manual defrost/hair dryer extravaganza just yet. Will see I can find the video someone else suggested about the a valve/hose in the back. As a consumer, I shouldn't have this problem on a fairly new and clean fridge/freezer.
I just watched another video where the fix was a 5 inch piece of copper wire attached to the heating coil and going down into the drain tube to keep the water from freezing there.
This is the exact issue I have and the slow leaking out of the fridge has warped our hard wood floors. My question is how often do you have to do this, and why am I doing it and Samsung isn't fixing it? Seems like opening and closing a freezer drawer is a pretty common occurrence...you put things in to freeze them, you take things out to eat them. So why isn't this considered a manufacturer defect and Samsung isn't doing anything about it?
the reason its building ice on the fresser floor is because the drain hole is clog and when the fridge does its defrost the water spill too the frezzer floor un clog the drain hole and it should work fine check the back of the fridge where the drain end theres like some rubber tubes that have to be cleaned
This is only part of the problem. unplug the unit from the power, take the lower panel of the back. You will see two vertical grey rubber tubes. take these off and clean them out. If you let the freezer defrost you can then suck the gunk out of the two spigots that the drain hoses attach to using a wet and dry vacuum cleaner. If you let it defrost completely you won't need to take the rear panel of inside the freezer. To remove the ice build up on the freezer floor just gently crack it with a rolling pin then lift it out. that should fix it and if you keep the drain tubes clear that should be the end of the problem
No need to use a rolling pin. A large kitchen knife will easily lift the ice off of the fridge bottom. I have gotten pieces out that were 1.5 inches thick without taking anything out of the freezer.
The ice easily comes off the fridge bottom with a large knife. No need to dump hot water there. No need to remove any food, drawer or any freezer parts at all. For access to the coils yes. But to just remove ice it comes out in a huge block in about 30 seconds with a knife. Just reach under the drawer full of food with your hand.
Would ice build up on those coils also cause your ice maker to stop making ice? I have ice build up in the bottom part but ice maker has quit working also. Exact same model as the one in this video. Excellent video BTW!
You should check the sensor located it the top of the freezer, they can become damaged if frozen food in the drawer hits it, then the freezer will not work properly
On the two electrical plugs that you disconnected behind the access panel, do they go back only one way or does it matter which plug goes in which slot? Are they marked as to which plug they are to go to? I could no tell in the video if they were each color coded or not.
Most of this isn't needed. The problem most likely is a plugged condensate drain. It gets plugged with sludge (mold) due to standing water. You need to go to the back of the refrigeration find the condensate drain and clean it out. There is another RU-vid video that shows you how. I only removed the top drawer and I was able to remove the ice with a little bit of hot water and a butter knife. After cleaning the drain you might want to use a biocide to flush the drain or a little water with bleach.
victor valladares -- YES... it can be a bad heater or thermo sensor, but very often it's just too much humid air from holding the door open!! (thank goodness for the chime) This is VERY common so try to clear the line twice b4 ya go ripping it all apart...
You might want to turn off your refrigerator before you do this , by putting hot water on your coils I would imagine you’d do more damage. Plus it’s working harder then it needs to , because you have the freezer open the whole time. I hear in the video the dings telling him to close the freezer😳
Have the same problem with a different Samsung model.. Think they would have fixed this.. Anyway.. You showed how to undo the probkem but was waiting for a fix. The drai freezes and glogs the wated drain..
I have a question since you're familiar with the Samsung RF4287HA. The freezer light in my refrigerator doesn't always come on, like it used too. I suspect it is stuck in the off position because it frozen. I can restore function by warming and jarring the switch, process which may actually thaw the ice temporarily, but then it returns to its same old stuck self. From the video it looked like the door light switch is in the back left track. Does anybody no if that is true.
thanks for the video but why pour hot water onto all that ice rather than just prying it up and throwing in the sink or outside? I had a very thick layer of ice on the bottom of mine and I just stuck a butter knife under it and it came up in 2 big pieces. Easy peazy
