Thank you for doing this correctly. 30 yr contractor here and that is almost the way I do it. I saw a very popular video on installing windows on a steel building and they used no flashing, relying on housewrap and sealant. I’ve seen housewrap fail miserably. Way to go! Thank you!
If window was installed on high-exposure gable-end wall, then drip cap absolutely necessary; however, with over two feet of eave directly above, it's hard to fathom how any water could reach that area, and I've seen drip caps actually make matters worse by providing a "break" in the stucco for water to enter due to thermal expansion in the sun. So, having flashed windows for close to fifty years, I think their use is a judgement call based on the location of the opening.
Greate job, I found and see that the younger so call window installer don't believe in seal tape or drip caps, they want to do a quick job and move on! I'm glad you show and do it the right way.
Watched alot of techniques. A couple of things that seem like good practice not shown here are to use spacers to create a small gap between the window bottom and sill pan, and even to draft the house framing outward if possible (piece of beveled clapboard). And I learned the hard way that the drip cap or head flashing needs to be “dammed” on each side so it doesn’t divert water down the side of the window and under the trim or siding (and it’ll eventually get behind the tape at the flange and directly onto the OSB because now you have no tyvek or tape there, under the flange, in your integrated system).
Think that's what's happening to my basement bedroom window. Driving rain finds its way in and turned the drywall to mush. Likely need to cut that out and redo the hardie board and properly tape the window.
My only critique would be that the small pieces of sill flashing that got put in the corners should have gone on first so the the sill properly shingled over them, and to add a little bit of liquid sealant in the corner where the cut was made. This location in windows is notorious for leaking.
I do not think this is correct. If the small corner pieces go on first, they would, in a leak, drain UNDER the sill pan instead of over it. Its all about shingling...top to bottom. Corners should come over sill pan, which comes over Tyvek
@@dlsalmonman Look @6:38, the small corner pieces are over the sill pan. If water were to hit the vertical portion of the sill pan flashing it would then trickle down and hit the top of the corner pieces and has the potential to seep behind it.
This is so far the best video that I've watched and searched to learn about window installation. Congrats and thank you! You should dedicate your self to teaching people on youtube!
Thank you for demonstrating this correctly! I can’t believe how many people posing as professionals making videos of incorrect window flashing! Or no flashing at all. I’m trying to send a demo video to a friend and I couldn’t find one until yours. I would only echo one commenter that the flashing in the lower corners might go first and all the way back. But thank you! We’ll done.
Thanks for this. I just installed some double hung vinyl windows and all the older videos I watched always had the wrap cut and pulled into the window opening. Never really made sense. And there are a couple a couple windows on my house installed that way, because that was the instructions…. Appreciate the better explanation and install.
I do commercial exterior finishing up here in the northwest. On almost every project, we also cut the WRB back about 2 inched from the R.O. but when we put the membrane on the R.O., we wrap the whole thing before the window goes in, and post wrap. We also end dam all of our head flashings, especially since we always build out a rain screen gap, and without the end dams, water would just run behind the cladding
Very good video... You have an easy going way of explaining each step. It's funny how different videos have the house wrap go inside the window frame. I think I'm gonna follow your method, the integrated method. That drip cap was very interesting - first time I saw that.
Most jurisdictions do require the drip cap over the top of the window. I'm a retired City Building Inspector for San Antonio and then Augusta, Georgia. We would fail the inspection if there was no flashing/drip cap above the window. I do agree and appreciate how well you explained each step of proper installation. I will be building my own house very soon and I will be following the same steps you explained here. Thank you. Inspector RC
Almost perfect! I believe the water-resistant membrane should actually go OVER the flashing membrane on the jamb. Do, flange, flashing, then membrane. If you wanted to do overkill, you could then put another layer of flashing over the membrane. (This is per Northwest Wall & Ceiling Bureau.)
Did you just use DAP acrylic paintable caulking on the outside of your building as a water barrier instead of a Silicon caulk or one properly rated for weather use?
Are you putting a trim around the window, or was that the trim? drip cap usually goes on top of the trim. Seems like you put the drip cap directly on top of the window. please elaborate. thank you
Same flashing tape I have. I have 3 windows to install in one wall, spent two months replacing bad framing from termite damage. New sheathing will be required.
6 inch blue skin as an apron 6 inches past edge of window each side two inches below rough sill. After that you put a 3-inch triangle gusset in the corner priming in between layers. Then 9-inch boot Each corner quarter inch shims minimum at bottom install window nailing flange on both sides and window clips at top no nails at bottom. After window is installed 4 inch loose skin on sides 6-inch on top Field Paper overlapping with windowsills and heads shingle correctly for flashing. Three tier gusset system never leaks
Wonderful beginning to end....almost. You put some kind of clips on top of the window drip cap and then some additional adhesive flashing. You should have explained exactly what and why. Having done such a thorough job, so absolutely detailed, why wouldn't you have instructed us on that last bit as well? If you did it, it must be important? So why leave it out?
Great explanation. My only question is should I install the bottom of the window directly on the frame assuming the framing is perfectly level or do I need to put something to elevate it a little. To me it makes sense to go directly on frame for a better seal. What do you think? Thanks.
I like your video but you fell short of your own standard: the J-roller. Coincidentally I just did a few windows without a j-roller, and I knew better. The more leverage and pressure you can apply to flashing tape the better the bond and more durable the install. Today I rubbed/rolled the flashing tape with the smooth side and butt of a utility knife. The addition of a roller would have greatly improved the efficiency and quality of install. If you're in a cool climate like AK, a heat gun works nice too. Thanks for the video, made me think and reflect on my job today.
What if your window doesn’t have the flange and you have to use screws on the sides.. Doesn’t that compromise the flashing when you put a screw through it?
A flange-less window is a totally different type of installation. If you screw it in, just make sure you are not screwing into the sill or the sill pan you are creating with the peel and stick flashing. There are some other videos out there about how to do that install.
I love the overkill. I bought a mobile. The previous owners put windows in. No flash tape, no drip edge on top Needless to say. It's currently raining, water is dripping. When I fix, Im following your instructions. Thanks
Tyvek should rap to the inside along the the jambs of window and flashing tape should extend at least 2 in below from the Jambs and as well as flashing tape on head of window for better waterproofing
I think I have a window that wasn't installed properly in that I have some paint failure on the interior drywall of a vinyl sided house. It's below and right of the sill of the window. Not sure if the moisture isn't from the gas furnace and water heater exhaust (water vapour) condensation to that side of the window. Either way. I think it needs some repair.
This is a great video. Just curious as to what you'd do installing over GP Forcefield, since the WRB is adhered to the OSB. I have a pretty good idea but would welcome the insight
Thanks. I would just use the Forcefield tape....should adhere perfectly. I might treat the sill a bit differently with a more flexible tape like the one I mentioned.
Thank you…. Very educational for me. We have been experiencing rain leaking at the base of our interior window molding. Can you advise if there is a specific action you took in this video that would likely resolve the issue?
My windows are leaking. During construction The flashing was taped on top of the tyvek. And the windows were not plum. Is the use of the foam better than nothing?
I just had very large custom triangular shaped vinyl windows installed, and they did not use any tape on the sills. The builder said you ONLY need tape on the top, left, and right side exterior flanges. I hope he's right.......
He is correct if he is talking about putting tape or a sealant on the window flange. You still need to create a sill pan with either metal flashing or the butyl tape like I did.
@@CountryLivingExperience yeah that didn't happen because I definitely don't see any signs of that. I am thinking these windows might have to all come out to be done correctly :(
@@CountryLivingExperience If I link you to my plans for how I’m going to install the new window is there any chance you would mind taking a quick look and let me know if you agree?
My only issue with this drip edge above the window is that it had a reverse angle on it. Someone bent it with a 90. Proper way is to actually only bend a 60 and then push it down on silicone to about 85 degrees at most. So water is diverted away from house instead of channeled to the sides. If your Drip edge is angled out, most cases the water will shoot away from your house off the edge. In this case though, specifically, only reason the Drip cap doesn't matter is because all the waterproofing done here, Drip cap is only one of many barriers. Good job for sure, maybe white aluminum drip cap instead of galvanized. Lol
Do you have a video showing how to do this if your building is already sided? We just moved into a 150 year old house and the previous owners did not hire people who knew what they were doing when they replaced the windows. I need to put flashing and drip caps on every single window.
I don't have a video like that, sorry. An older building can pose a lot of challenges and may have had any number of different construction methods used to build it. When I was working at an architecture firm in Houston, our biggest challenge was the renovation of historic homes. You may be able to find something on the "This Old House" channel.
Thanks for the Video. I'm curious about the built-in J Channel window if it needs a Drip cap. The instructions from the manufacturer say it's unnecessary unless you remove it. I see conflicting information from others on this. What are your thoughts?
Totally noob questions: how does water (if it gets under the window) drain outside through flashing tape? Is it one way membrane? And what about inside, is there any sealing or water coming that way is impossible?
@@CountryLivingExperience So, the flashing tape wasn't meant to be 100% watertight seal all around, but to keep water from getting in from the outside, and in a hypothetical situation when water does get in, it still can sip out through the tiny openings in the tape seal? What about inside - would water go that way? Again, sorry about my questions, but where I am this technology is not at all common...
I’m building a tiny home and using 5/8 T111 siding I’m using house wrap instead of felt now do I put the windows before the siding and what is the best way to flash it
The drip cap on that particular window is overkill for sure. Being 8" under a 30" eve, it will never see a drop of water in its life. Some time and materials wasted.
I wouldn’t hire you to work on a crew building any of my houses if you are going to cut corners like that. Not overkill, it is the proper way to do it.
They caulked the window in on aluminum, keeping original slanted sill plate. Nothing flashed-just caulk and wood with slanted plate, huge caulk-filled gaps, so the bottom of the windows is bigger than the other three sides. I thought to do a tear down, they had to replace brickmoulds and sill at the same time, to build an entire new frame. It looks horrendous, even if it were trimmed up, which they did not DO. So I have wrong sized wood, huge silicone filled gaps, up against aluminum. I'm not happy.
The term flange and fin are used interchangeably in many parts of the country. Some manufacturers like Marvin use fin, some manufacturers like NK use nailing flange. I have practiced architecture in 3 different states and the dozens of builders I have worked with use the term flange. It is a building term that is regional in character.
No, it's not overkill. Water and moisture is a solvent. As the poster above said, "I wouldn't want you working on my house". I discovered this problem myself because of some irresponsible HACK who thought he was a good GC. A little more insurance goes a long way. If you can't grasp this , hang up tool pouches and try something else....
Correction he never flashes the window, no break used no aluminum bent yet again on one of these “flashing videos” yet the whole thins is about installing a window smh
Got hail damage got insurance gonna pay on description from adjustor line 2. Says Builder board-1/2 "(compostion or fiberboard sheathing) this is not meaning House wrap?
