Actually just heat it close to boiling so the bubbles build and speed up the process of oxidation and the heat from the liquid quickly turns the oxidation into a “black” oxide. Once the coat becomes thick enough it will appear black. If you layer rust solution of vinegar, salt and/or hydrogen peroxide. You can get a pretty DEEP shade of black on your knife by dunking it in boiling water several times after rusting the surface and be sure to buff the excess black oxide off to get the best results. And flaking is a good thing. Convert to black and buff flat.
I saw this a few months ago and today I’m finally going to try it but I’ve already done the vinegar method multiple times I’m gonna try just Coke Coca-Cola and a mixture of Coca-Cola vinegar and water
Do you have to do the coke first or even skip it? Looks like the coke didnt do much. On the vinegar you really could the a chemical reaction. Maybe you also dont have to put them in a glass full of vinegar and just rub them with it?
I used vinegar and it worked great. If you want a spotty look then use mustard. Im thinking of submerging my case carbon steel trapper. Wonder if it will affect the bolsters on it.
very nice - I just received a new, shiny one (for now). Is that a 2 part treatment - coke then vinegar, or can you use straight vinegar. I'm looking at using a cold bluing, but I like the look of this even better. I assume the Coke is for the phosphoric acid - have you tried using a straight phosphoric acid - I think a higher concentration of that acid could be great and may allow one to skip the vinegar. THis is just a guess on my part - never tried it. Phosphoric acid is used in traditional HOT bluing methods along with HCl
Very cool! Have you tried just the vinegar itself? It does seem like the Coke gives it a bluish hue that remains there even after the vinegar treatment ? Did the process it dull your edge at all out of curiosity? Thanks
i just sharpen my kris dagger to razor sharpness , i think i will cover the edge with electrical tape before inserting it into 50 : 50 vinegar solution.
I did my Conpanion HD with apple cider vinegar, no coke. I heated the vinegar until it just started to boil, then let the blade sit in it until it cooled to room temp (~45 min). Then I got rid of the old vinegar and repeated the process once more. It came out amazing. Looks just like the factory coating on the Bushcraft Black.
@@1mataleo1 super cool, thanks for describing that process. Does that process significantly dull the blade? I’m prepared to resharpen it afterwards but I’m just curious.
No problem. I did it as soon as I got the knife. After forcing the patina, I sharpened it on my waterstones. Factory edges are almost never up to my standard, and I always sharpen a new knife, so I didn’t even bother to check for edge degradation. However, it took very little to get the knife scary sharp, so I immagine the edge degradation was minimal. In hindsight, a strop loaded with white compound probably would have been sufficient to restore it to shaving sharp. So if there was degradation, it was very minimal.
Thanks, i might try the vinegar one sometime. All i did, with my Mora Carbon robust, was coat it with Japanese choji oil. And left it in the sheath :) Haven't had any rust, but i might try the patina thing. Question; does the process effect the edge at all? (do you need to resharpen the knife a little, afterwards?)
That should be a commercial about the hazards of drinking Coke! 🤣 If it will do that to hardened steel, imagine what it’s doing to peoples guts. PS….if you will bring your vinegar almost to a boil, it will work faster and better
The same thing will happen if you put mustard on it, peel an apple, cut almost any fruit or cut up a steak with it. Water will make it rust and do worse to the hardened steel than the Coke.
@@shawnpatrick1877 It's true for the microbevel, but personally I can tell you that I bought a mora with a microbevel on it and, for me, it's a good compromise. You can feel the scandi but it's just a little bit less aggressive (not less sharpened, it still shaves hairs) but it's a lot more resistant!
It's just mineral oil, couple of dollars at Walmart or any pharmacy. It's food grade. "Vaseline" is petroleum jelly, also safe (they make chapstick from it). It's basically just various lengths of molecules of hydrocarbons. Methane, ethane, propane, butane, as the molecules get larger, it becomes liquid , then oily, then waxy, then solid - paraffin. Mineral oil is sold as laxative.
Vaseline is pretty much just thick mineral oil. You can use either. The vaseline will stick better and both are food safe in small amounts. I would rather use some beeswax mixed with jojoba oil to get it thick because it sticks really well and is good for leather sheaths. What I've settled on is about 50/50 mineral oil and jojoba oil (just for cost) and then add enough beeswax to get the thickness I like. Some call it a form of "fixin' wax" that you can use on knives, wood and other stuff. You may want to run it thicker in summer and thinner in winter. Baby Oil is usually a very thin mineral oil with some scent added. If you can get the unscented version, then it is a win for knife protectant, sharpening stone oil and many other uses. Regular mineral oil is usually a little too thick for sharpening stones.
Yes, beeswax and some oil makes a nice replacement for vaseline. The beeswax is too thick/hard on its own. I don't like using mineral oil, so I use mostly jojoba oil to thin the beeswax. Jojoba is mostly thin waxes rather than the fatty acids (and proteins) in most seed oils. The seed oils can go moldy/rancid, so there is a shelf life problem with the wrong oils. I also find the jojoba to wet the steel a little better than mineral oil. Beeswax has wonderful stickiness, adds thickness and is good for the leather if you have a leather sheath. If you want to control costs a little, use 50/50 beeswax and paraffin and then use 50/50 mineral oil and jojoba oil to thin it to a gel. Run the gel thicker in the summer and thinner in the winter.
@@Testacabeza You can get much stronger phosphoric acid in the concrete cleaner at hardware and big box stores. I'm wondering if vinegar spiked with phosphoric and some salt will work best. Hot of course. I would tend to dip the blades in actively boiling water afterwards to finish off in a low oxygen environment so the black oxide can lock in without any red oxide.
Why are you forcing knife patina? Nobody cares what your knife looks like. Just use it in the kitchen for a few months. And any non stainless blade gets "Patina
Lock please tell me, I wonder at the end of the clip that says after making a patina we should have to sharpen again, I don't know if it includes knives that haven't been used because mine is new. Thank you.
It's rusting the surface. The edge is all surface, so you will lose a little edge. You'll want to resharpen. On a scandi, that means about 0.4 inches of non-patina steel along the whole length. So it is a more complete effect on a V-edge knife than on a scandi.
@@LockReviewEDCandTools maybe some straight up lofi? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3SeOVVJXOUo.html Also, how does the patina hold up during work? Does it slow the rust significantly?
