I'm pouring a 6" thick concrete slab over 20' x 40' area. How far should I tie the rebar between each other? What size of the rebar is used? Would it help to stop the crack if I use 2" pink XPS foam under the concrete slab.
Thanks for the comment! 24" on center should be fine for the rebar spacing. #4 (1/2") is the recommended diameter for the bar on a 6" slab. Pouring on top of 2" foam can reduce cracking, but there are never any guarantees. The foam does help keep the concrete from heaving in freeze-thaw environments. You just have to decide whether it's worth the extra time and cost of the foam. Hopefully, this helps! Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!
Going to be building a 24 X 24 shop and am debating on doing my own pad…this was a huge confidence builder for me…love the step by step instruction….ill do it exactly like this…thank you
Thanks for the comment! 4" thick would be the standard for patios, and that would also be the minimum thickness for a slab on grade. The extra 1/2" of concrete is well worth the extra cost for exterior slabs. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!
Thanks for the comment!! That 3/4" gravel will work fine if you can't find #57 limestone. We prefer limestone, but gravel is probably the most commonly use base material. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!
Looks great! I'm about to do a 4.5m x 6m slab for a campervan. Should the rebar stick out the sides or is it best to leave them shorter than the overall length and width of the slab?
Thanks for the comment! The rebar does not need to stick out the sides. The best thing is to leave it short, around 2" of clearance on all sides is ideal. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!
I have a spot in the middle of a downstairs driveway that is triangular shaped and surrounded by existing slabs. How would I approach that? One side is the retaining wall, the other 2 are concrete. Would I just clear it out, level/gravel fill, then pour?
Thanks for the comment!! Yes, start by clearing it out and leveling it with gravel. The concrete should be at least 4" thick, but if the area is really small, you might want to make it even thicker. Make sure you put some expansion joint along the retaining wall so the concrete doesn't bond to it. For the sides against the driveway, It would be a good idea to drill holes and dowel it to the existing slabs. We hope your project goes well! Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!
I'm pouring a 6" thick concrete slab over 20' x 40' area. How far should I tie the rebar between each other? What size of the rebar is used? Would it help to stop the crack if I use 2" pink XPS foam under the concrete slab.
Thanks for the comment! Chairs are great if you don't have to drive a wheelbarrow or buggy over the rebar. But, most backyard patios will require driving something over the bar. Unless you are pumping it, or sometimes you can get the concrete truck close enough to get the chute inside the forms. We have always pulled up the bar as we go, it definitely works as long as you pay attention to what's happening. It does sink a bit as you walk on it, but if pulled it enough it will still end up in the right spot. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!
Several questions Jeff... Where do I rent that concrete truck, how do I know Im getteing the right concrete? Where do I rent that compactor? Where do I get the gravel? How do I cut my rebar so its the right fit? Last but not least, How do I know I want a slope on it or not?
Thanks for the comment! The first thing to do is call your local ready mix concrete plant and tell them about your project. They will help you decide what type of concrete mix will work the best. You won't need to rent the concrete truck, they'll deliver the concrete to you ready to pour! Concrete ready mix plants are also a good source for the gravel and most of them will deliver it to your jobsite. The compactor can be rented from most equipment/tool rental shops. Small diameter rebar (3/8" & under) can be cut with a large bolt cutter, but an abrasive blade is easier. #4 rebar (1/2") and up will need to be cut with an abrasive blade, you could set up a blade on an angel grinder, but a concrete chop/cut off saw will be lot quicker. You can rent the cut off saw from the same place as you rent the compactor, you'll need the saw with a diamond blade to cut the concrete anyway. As for the slope, this depends on the situation. Exterior concrete needs a minimum of 1" of fall per 10' so water can drain off properly. But you can, and probably should give it even more slope then that. We're actually releasing a video tomorrow morning on how much slope to put on exterior concrete! Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!
Thanks for the comment! We don't currently have any videos on removing existing concrete. You can rent a jack hammer from most tool rental shops and bust the concrete in to small pieces so they are easier to dispose of. For larger jobs, you may rent a skid steer to remove the concrete and have someone haul it off for you with a dump truck. It just depends on the size of the job and how much hand work you willing to do. If you search "concrete slab removal " on RU-vid there are quite a few videos out there. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!
Hello, very informative video. How far away from each other should wholes be drilled into existing concrete slobs for rebar installation? Thank you in advance.
Hello, and thank you for the response. How far away from the edge of the concrete slob should the holes be drilled, and also how deep should the holes be drilled, and what size of rebar should be used? Thank you in advance.
@@kevinjefferson9739 You can start your first dowel hole 1'-2' from the edge of the slab, and generally, they would be 8" deep. #4 (1/2") rebar works well for the dowles. However, the size of the full-length rebar for the main part of the slab would depend on the thickness of the slab. In this video, the slab was 5.5" thick, so we used #4 for everything. #3 (3/8") rebar would be better for 4" slabs. I'll leave a few links to some other videos on doweling slabs together and slab thickness. Thanks again for watching Deco-Crete TV, we hope your project turns out great!! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Kiwh2sVFghA.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IRO9wRSKfw8.html
Hello, and thank you for the response. How strong the concrete should be-4000 psi or 5000 psi or more for the garage floor slab? What are the red rebar holders inside of the 2X6? What do they do, what is the purpose of them? Thank you in advance.
@@kevinjefferson9739 4000 psi will be fine for the garage floor. The red tubes are a part of the Quick Dowel system. There's a base that's screwed to the 2x6, the red tube fits over the base. After the concrete is poured and it's time to strip the forms, the base will come off with the 2x6, and the red tube stays in the concrete. This tube will serve as the hole for the rebar dowel. Eliminating the need for drilling holes. You can buy the Quick Dowels on our website, I'll leave the link below. www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/forms-expansion-wire/5-8-quicdowel-base ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4XmPodKjz98.html
I put in a 12 x 16. My forms are in and I didn't have rock but compacted the dirt and threw in rebar. It's for a shed. Should I still put in rock or am I good with how i have it? I'm also about a 8 inches away from all sides with the rebar. Any advice would be appreciated.
3-4 inches of compacted gravel is recommended, however if this is your own project you'll have to decide if you want to take the risk or not. It's not like the slab is just going to fall apart, its that the dirt wont provide any drainage under the slab. 8 inches from the sides will be fine for the rebar.
Thanks for the comment! Once you have the screed line established, you can either pull the grade pin out with a Vise-Grip or pound it down with a hammed. If you pound it down, make it's down far enough to get full coverage over it with the concrete. Otherwise it could create a weak spot. Make sure you do this as you go. Once you've screeded past it, you won't be able to get to it any more. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!
Anyone; I have an existing shed/garage which is sitting on railway ties. I need to remove clay about 4ft b4 putting in a concrete slab. Do I also need to excavate under where the blocks will be?
Thanks for the comment! We normally pour the concrete with a buggy and it doesn't work very well if the rebar is chaired up. We just pull the bar up by hand as we pour. In this case, blocks or chairs would have worked fine. Most commercial job will require chairs at a spec'd height. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!
Thanks for the comment! The excavating and forming would be the same as in this video. How steep is the hill? You can put quite a bit of slope on a slab like that, but depending on how steep the natural grade is, you might need to build up bottom side a little bit. 1.5" of slope per 10' is nice amount of slope to get the water off the slab but still feel fairly flat. Even 3" of slope per 10' won't be bad to park on, but you probably don't want to go much more then that. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!
@@milliewilliams4889 6' slope on a 16' slab would be quite steep. In that case, you would probably want to flatten it out some by building up the bottom side of the slab or digging into the grade on the top side-maybe even a little of both.
Thanks for the comment! Wire mesh is a commonly used form of reinforcement. We prefer rebar for exterior concrete, but a lot of contractors use wire mesh. Thanks for watching!
@@DecoCreteTV Contractors like rebar and the stronger than mesh sales pitch. However, I talked to DIY and engineers say mesh is fine for residential garage.
We don't normally use anything to hold up the rebar. Most backyard patios require a wheelbarrow or concrete buggy to get the concrete in place. It doesn't work to drive over the bar if it's chaired up. We usually just pull the bar up as we pour. If you don't have to drive over the bar, you could chair it up with blocks or rebar chairs. Thanks for watching!!!!
@@DecoCreteTV Fundamental misunderstanding of the purpose of rebar in concrete. Concrete is excellent compression stress and terrible with tension stress. Rebar provides support for tension stress and has to be place at the correct depth in the concrete to provide the propper support. Just having rebar in there somewhere does very little. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cZINeaDjisY.html
Thanks for the comment! The final load-barring strength of any concrete slab will depend on the mix design, how much water was added, reinforcement, and curing. Generally, a 5.5" thick, reinforced, 4000psi concrete slab will typically handle 10,000-12,000lb or 5-6 tons. Again, this number can go up or down depending on all the variables. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!
Thanks for the comment! We have another video explaining this. I'll leave a link below. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fHlAAIj2fxg.html
Most people would consider 10ga wire the minimum for a 4" slab, some use 8ga if it's gonna get vehicle traffic. This slab was 5.5" thick and gets heavy vehicle traffic. We just prefer working with rebar instead of wire for small slabs like this. If we had used wire, we would have used 6ga. Thanks for watching!!!
Young men out there watching this video always work standing up this guy driving in stakes is a lame , I’m a form setter since 1990 the only workers that work on that knees are on their first day and I stop that right away. This trade is hard enough on the body
So bending over at your hips while swinging a hammer is better for your back? 2 reasons he was doing that, the first reason is it's better than what you're suggesting and the 2nd is for the purpose of capturing him in the video frame along with what he's talking about.
The slab in this video was in our parking lot that already had a gravel base, so in this case we could have used what was there, although what you can't see in the video was how chucky the base material is. The limestone fill is just nicer to work with. And don't worry, we didn't waste anything, we used the chucky base material in other parts of the parking lot. On most concrete jobsites however, there won't be any gravel base to work with and you'll have to dig into the ground. Thanks for watching!!!
