When I did previous basements, I build laddered boxes out of 2x2 to frame around the duct or plumbing that needed to be enclosed/built around. I think I may try your method when I tackle my next job, as it looks easier and possibly a little less $$ needed. Thanks for the vid!
I worked as a Union carpenter on commercial jobs for most of my career in the trade. You are making this way more difficult than needed. Skip the OSB and just use the drywall in its place. It is plenty strong enough. Use framing angle or 1-5/8” metal studs in place of the 2x2 or 2x4. Also, to ensure the finished bottom surface is level, hang the rips of drywall a couple of inches wild, get your laser or water level elevation marks at each end. Snap a chalk line, cut the drywall off, fasten the angle or 1-5/8” stud horizontally and it’s ready for the bottom piece. No wood needed at all. Cheaper and much faster. You don’t need all that structure behind the drywall. It is a waste.
Wish you would explain in a little more detail. I really like your idea but what how do you attach the Sheetrock to the 1 5/8” metal studs? Thank you! Asking for my son who will try this for the first time
Sorry, I just saw this. I hope it’s not too late. When you use metal framing, you attach everything with drywall screws. For 1/2” drywall you can use screws as short as 1” but your best all around length that works for everything is 1-1/8” to 1-1/4”. I haven’t found that the big box stores carry the 1-1/8” but if you see them, grab some. Metal to metal uses 3/8” mini screws, preferably self tapping. Once you use metal framing and see how fast it goes up, you won’t go back to wood. Everything but heavy gauge material cuts with a tin snips. The studs are always perfectly straight, no culling for usable product. Good luck!
OMG! I have to do this on a job tomorrow and couldn’t figure it out. But thanks to you I now know. This is the best way for me as I don’t want to frame under the duck work. Just hang the board. Nice!
As the AC units get more efficient and output colder I would not recommending sealing a duct in wood/drywall in a basement without insulating the metal duct first. Due to high humidity below ground basements tend to be more humid, this humidity leads to condensation which will rot your wood and can cause mold in drywall. I am currently working on a home built in the 60's with a Geothermal system that is putting out 40-45 degree air and causing the ducts to sweat profusely. I have had to remove all the duct surrounds and insulate the metal ducts to stop this. Additionally we added a few return lines in the basement to help too.
I watch your videos only for satisfaction not for learn how you do that if you make videos like the first video i will deafenatly i will be your biggest fan
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation: [00:00] 🔨 This video will show you how to frame around HVAC ducts or pipes in your basement. [00:35] 🔨 Attach a mounting rail to the bottom of the floor joist parallel to the duct. [00:49] 📐 Measure the distance the HVAC duct extends from the floor joist and rip a piece of OSB to be 1 inch longer than that distance. [02:42] 🪛 Attach drywall directly to the OSB on the vertical sections and to the mounting studs on both sides of the duct for the bottom section. [03:10] 🛠️ Alternative framing method: Use metal studs attached every 16 inches on center and mount drywall like any other wall. This works for pipes as well. Made with HARPA AI
I want to finish my basement. New homeowner.. we have an oil tank in the back right corner and our furnes/ Ducts and water heater is in the dead center of the room. We want it completely open when finished but would like to hide that stuff. Yet we want it to be accessible Incase of emergency. I don’t know how to do that or can’t find any videos summary to our set up.
