I’ll say this: before you start adding all of the typical performance modifications, get some good engine mounts, an upgraded transmission mount, and an upgraded differential bushing. Too many people don’t think about drivetrain loss and we’re not all superior enough as drivers to even be thinking about “more power.”
U kinda right bc this video is outdated, my car made 303whp not with those mods but something else shown on other videos but honestly u right still waste of money just go nitrous hands down bang for buck and call it a day or be safer make it progressively and maybe do oil pump, arp rod bolts and rod bearings and u can make 500hp on nitrous if the torque is kept lower
300's a decent number for peak whp, but the power curve will impact how the car feels. The intake manifold and headers you use will impact the curve more than anything. When I paired the revup lower plenum (short intake runners) to the Tomei headers on my cammed DE, it made power all the way to redline at 7500 rpm.
I made 305 with an intake and plenum as engine mods and basic full bolt ons. everything really depends on how well maintained the engine is. I’ve seen heavily modified g’s with hella mods making low 280s
For the 350/g35 we have 3.5 gearing for the differential. The 370z/G37 (manual) have 3.7 gearing which bolts up to 350/g35. Like you said 3.7 is better than 3.5. Instead of having to spend almost $600 you can pick up a used diff for under $200 🤙🏾🤙🏾🤙🏾
Drifters actually often prefer the low final drive ratio like 3.3 & 3.5 (welded) because they don't want to be changing gears often and can stay in 2nd throughout their drifts.
@@kimdotnet8151 I agree, 4.3 is ideal, just saying that drifters tend to opt for the 3.3-3.5 so they don't have to change gears mid drift. Do you have 4.3? I would love to upgrade my 3.7. Big difference in wheel tourque/acceleration?
@@ryanscanlan9875 I wish! my Z has a 3.5 which I just blew the output shaft off.. I've done a ride along in one with the 4.3 and its a huge difference!
I have an 04 G35X, I want to get test pipes and a magnaflow glasspack in place of the resonator. Hoping that will cut down with any rasp from the test pipes. I can sell the oem cats in the condition they are in for around $90 per side. Im wanting to just leave the rest of the exhaust stock. Hoping it'll sound as close to stock as possible. I just want it to be a bit louder at idle but nothing too obnoxious and I definitely want to avoid the infamous trumpet sound. The only time I had a car with full exhaust from y-pipe, hi flow cat, cat back exhaust and a performance muffler. I had a 3rd gen Maxima SE. It had the VE30DE, the FWD version of the 300zx VG30DE. It just had a timing chain instead of a belt. It also was a 5 speed manual with a LSD front diff. That damn car was so loud, it sounded great. But damn was it loud as fuck. You could here it scream at wot a mile away. I've also had a 300zxTT, i know for sure it had dual glasspacks. It had some kind of custom 3 inch dual exhaust. The guy I bought it from owned an exhast shop. It was so long ago, I just know it was all custom. So I'm assuming it had aftermarket headers and the rest was straight piped besides the glasspacks. Not sure what brand the headers were, just know it definitely wasn't stock as I had to replace an 02 sensor and could tell. Had a lot of ppl think I had a V8 swap. The way it lobed I thought it may of had a cam, it just sounded great at idle and whenever I was at wot. The Maxima sounded louder but in a loud F1 type of way. The 300zxTT sounded more muscle if that makes any sense. I like how the stock G35 sounds, I'm hoping if I get test pipes and a 22 inch glasspack should eliminate any rasp. I also have a cheap 5/16th Blox Plenum spacer. I've had no problems with it whatsoever and it's been installed for over 6 months. I cant really tell you what the difference made. As I also did a lot of work while I installed it. Got a set of new valve covers, gaskets and hardware, new platinum spark plugs and coil packs. I seafoamed it before I did anything. Then cleaned the hell out of the plenum, throttle body, and the intake manifold. I painted the valve covers as well as the plenum so it looks a lot cleaner. I definitely noticed a huge difference, but I also installed a CAI on top of the plenum spacer and tune up. Before it ran ok and i could tell it needed a tune up bad. I also installed an oil catch can running both banks to the same baffled OCC. It was a closed system so I had the vacuum that initially went from the pcv valve to lower plenum now going to the OCC. It runs alot cleaner and it catches maybe an oz or so every month. When I first got it I'd notice a puff of white smoke whenever id get on the throttle at highway speeds. Say I dropped it to 3rd going 60 the shifting to 4th there'd be smoke. The OCC eliminated that but the intense cleaning I did also helped a lot. To my surprise the engine was fairly clean. There was no sludge build up, the valve train looked clean when I had the valve covers off. Since I did this all at once of course there was a major difference. So I don't know how much of an improvement the plenum spacer did itself. I do know that it also ran much cooler. Before I did everything to it I could barely touch the plenum it was so hot. Now I can drive it 4 hrs straight and it'll be slightly warm to the touch. Only problem I've been having is the annoying P0171 bank 2 lean code. Im not sure if this is due to the mods or if there's a slight vacuum leak coming from the OCC? However, it hasn't effected the engine performance yet. For such an old car with 209k miles I'm highly impressed with how great it handles and drives. It's a fun car to drive for sure, it's definitely not the fastest car I've owned. But it's one of the funnest by far.
The P0171 bank 2 lean code that you are getting could be a vacuum leak from the cheap plastic Blox plenum spacer. Those have been known to melt and cause vacuum leaks in between the upper and lower plenum. Try removing it and see if your check engine light goes away. I can't guarantee that it will go away, but it might. On my 06 G35 sedan, I have a Z1 3/8" aluminum plenum spacer that I've had on for nearly 3 or 4 years now, and have not had any issues.
@@nachoyoutube3378 yes with a port through the bumper cover tell ya who told me this and thats RZG motorsports if you've never heard of them RU-vid them
Firstly..thank you very much for your information. Secondly, have seen lots of videos saying performance parts will, make more HP'z, but no one even mentions or comment how this "if" or how it will effect the cars oem nissan stock factory ECU's in the long run!
Great vid. However admin tuning intakes are very low quality, badly designed Chinese tubes with massive wait times. Limp mode are hand made in the states, little wait time, velocity stacked, cheaper and infinitely better designed. No comparison. I've dealt with both companies.
no i personally am friends with the fabricator who makes admin intakes and he makes custom intakes for my car the piping he used is quality from the states. im not a fan of admintuning but his intakes for hr and vhr are quality but imo i would not recommend getting short rams for any car.
@@strictlyvicious Yours where but mine certainly were't. Took well over 10 weeks and mine were scratched, bent, unpurged welds, no admin plaque, jaggered welds on the inside. Basically ridiculous for the price and wait. When contfronted, he tried to blame it all on me as 'user instaltion error' which didn't even make sense as I made them work but $700 usd - laughable. Mistakes happen but the way he handled his miskae was very telling to his character.
What mods would you have to get a tune after because i plan on getting the 75mm throttle , plenum spacer , ram intake n a exhaust , because ik u have to get a tune after installing some parts so just wondering if its after any of these parts ?
If u can get a 3.5” front mount cold air intake but it will require a tune, but none of those mods u stated will need a tune but it depends on the size of the intake before a tune will be needed
Not worth the cost at all.... You'd be better off building or swapping the engine if power is the goal.... For all that money you want way more than 25HP over stock.... You could get way more bang for your buck out of nitrous, lol.
Wonder how the OE VHR Y-pipe compares to the aftermarket DE options. I picked up a 370z VHR Y-pipe and mid-pipe to pair up with a set of G37 ARK Grip mufflers/resonators from the axle back (the rest of the exhaust the guy had was fucked up and I couldn't fit it in my trunk) for $25 total! Both of the dudes were about to scrap them. Think that's probably the best exhaust setup one can get for $25 😁😁- even without the X-pipe (which I may be able to have a shop custom fab anyways). Also get to sell my GReddy SP2 and stock DE G35 y and mid-pipe for a net profit
@@strictlyvicious Yeah I saw that the 370z inlet pipes are about 0.2" smaller than stock DE/HR pipes. Online it seems that people typically don't see power decreases, some claim gains, with VHR Y-pipe swapped onto DE's, but the decrease in diameter probably mostly cancels out the better design of the VHR. I believe the single outlets of all of the pipes are the same, so I wonder where the diameter inside the VHR pipe increases. Either way, I could probably mount the VHR mid-pipe and ARK mufflers currently, sell the VHR Y-pipe, and get either an HR Y-pipe or an aftermarket one (I'll look into ISR). People are fetching up to $100 for the VHR ones used, so may not be too bad of an idea
@@strictlyvicious Also still trying to figure out if I'll need a G37 rear swaybar to fit the stock VHR midpipe too. If normal aftermarket true dual exhausts can fit with the stock swaybar, idk why the VHR ones wouldn't
The Shift Tech intake is very expensive. I went ahead and did the cutting, porting and polishing to 3 of these plenums. anyone can do it with a few basic inexpensive tools.
On the 350z really good but on the g35 you need a 8 or 10” extension but it still one poke out how you want. You need to get the titanium custom extended and/or cut the bumper diffuser off that’s what I did
Eladio Marquez it does add the power but only up top at high rpms. So on a DE non RevUp it’ll be useless unless u have cams and oil pump that’ll let u rev to 7500rpms to even get that 30hp. Also you’ll lose all of your low end power
