Needed to get a water line under the driveway to run a drip irrigation system to the rose garden. This is a quick and effective way to get a pipe under an object to that water lines or wires can be run.
I’ve done this by sticking a pressure washer wand in the pipe. The extra pressure make it even faster. Used it for setting pipes in as fence posts as well. When it dries the post is solid, no tamping required.
Put a nozzle jet on the end of pipe. Then jet pipe under drive. That’s how us landscapers do it. Much more effective than mere pvc pipe with no nozzle fitting. Trust me- 34 yrs. experience!
ever have a problem with the asphalt driveway cracking? thinking of using this method on a system but don't want to have to replace the asphalt driveway
I did this over 40 years ago. Two inch pipe, two feet deep, under a street and hit hole on other side dead dead on. Reduced pipe to 1/4 inch hole. Worked great. Jake Cobbs
Two success tips not mentioned. 1 snap chalk lines on concrete to give you visual aim lines to push jetting pipe. 2 place a brick or other non-water softening hard surface in your trench where you start. This allows you to push down on the pipe and keep it bowed tight to the bottom of the concrete. As an electrician I have seen where running a conduit for post lights has been 3 feet down by the other side of a double driveway when not using an angle stop.
I discovered this drilling method as a 4 year old, playing with the garden hose in our sandy back yard in Holly MI, I buried the hose so deep we could not pull it out without the water on! Have a fun day, that was about 55 years ago.
Using a heat gun, soften the first 2” of pipe. Using slip-jaw pliers, crimp down two sides of the pipe to foam a lipped point. This adds a downward angle to work under obstructions and increases the waters velocity. It’s the same pressure & volume just at a faster speed like a Venturi effect used in carburetors. When done, cut it back to round useable pipe for connection. Heating PVC pipe is done all the time for electrical service feed lines as rock ledges or boulders are below the surface. Once the trench is cleaned and established, the soft pipe will conform to the bottom over large obstructions but with electrical, a locating wire is added, concrete is placed on the conduit to protect it including a coil warning tape. Just a thought taken from another industry!
I think I’d put an end cap on the drilling end and drill a1/4 hole to add a super strong spray nozzle. My drive is about 20 feet so, it’ll take some work. Think I’ll go about a foot or so longer than the width of the drive so I’d have some room to work with on both ends. But keep this in mind: 1/3 will do this a will be successful 1/3 will try,then call a professional 1/3 won’t even attempt this as it is too foreign to them. LOL! Good job!
Best tip so so far. In the uk the sub base is usually a lot thicker with all kinds of nasties buried I can't see this working here unless you use steel rods and a power tool to hammer it through.
Great shot! . But down in the land of Oz, we use two pipes, and the outer one serves as a return for the debris and stops caverning and weakening the concrete. A 45 degree cut on the boring pipe works well. John
Problem with this method is it washes away more dirt than the pipe will replace. You can get a crack in the concrete from the lack of support. I can show you cracks in my driveway and sidewalk from using this method. I found it better to use electrical EMT metal pipe. I hammer one end flat and then hammer it under the driveway/sidewalk. Compacts the soil so no cracks. It will lift pavers if you're to close to the bottom of them. Just cut off the ends of the pipe after you get it in and you've got a pipe to run smaller pipes and/or wires in.
What happens when the ground is clay? Of course it’s going to be a sand base when the concrete is poured. Running a piece of poly or pvc under a sidewalk would work but a driveway? No. Best to rent or hire out someone with a boring machine...cost a bit but it’ll save your driveway from cracking.
I've tried this method before, doesn't work. I mean it will in certain conditions where soil is soft. Any other condition and it doesn't work, trust me I've tried. I've tried it in hard rocky dirt and it went about 2 foot in, not even the slightest inch more. I've tried it in clay and same sort of problem, it just gets too hard. Even with a sledge hammer I couldn't get it, it started to bend the pipe like a bent nail where you can't even continue. Also once you've hammered and it's gotten stuck 2 foot in, it's near impossible to pull out unless you half inch a rope to it and pull it out with a vehicle. Also per NEC code EMT conduit is not suitable for direct burial, it'll corrode and completely fall apart over time. If you are going to use a certain metal, it's got to be something on the lines of galvanized steel rigid conduit.
Theres a fix for that. Crude but works use low expanding GREAT STUFF IN A SERIES OF HOLES ACROSS TRENCH LINE BEFORE STUFFING CENTER YOUR PIPE OR USE CHALKLINE AND ZIG ZAG ROWS HOLES EITHER SIDE PIPE THE FOAM IF USED CAREFULLY WILL SUPPORT DRIVEWAY OR SIDEWALK. HIGH EXPANSION FOAM CAN WILL RAISE CRACK CONCRETE USE LOTS OF LOW EXPANSION FOAM.
If that is a question that stumps You Construction is not for you. Obviously if you are pouring a driveway you would put one conduit near the garage and one near the road.
The excessive soil displacement, erosion and potential for future concrete damage mentioned in the comments is exactly why hydro-boring is illegal in many states.
GOOD JOB BIG GUY, DIRT FARMER MICHAEL USNAVYRETIRED ORG. FROM GA. LIVING IN THE COUNTRY OF PANAMA. ALWAYS WISHING THAT MY MESSAGE FIND YOU AND YOUR WELL ALWAYS.BE SAFE AND TAKE CARE.NOW GO HAVE A FINE NAVY DAY GOD AND COUNTRY.
I used this method years ago, when I wanted to run TV cable, and telephone wire, to a room in my house without running it up around the eaves of the house. My job was much easier, as I only had to bore under about 4 ft of sidewalk. Once I got the 3/4 in pvc pipe through, I simply fished my wires through and I was set. By doing this I only had to run about about 12 feet of cable and phone line, as opposed to running about 3 times that much around the eaves, or through the attic.
Use ground mole or grundermat witch runs off a compressor,shaped like a torpedo about one metre long has hammer trash bolt in side witch punches dirt aside leaving a perfect hole as it hammer in
Look guys, I have run this set-up a couple of times with a dead wall found 2 ft in. Then a nasty 1/2 rebar was used, with water jet,....no penetration. Let's be fair and assume that in a few applications there is almighty rock and such under that concrete slab. A sledgehammer driving that rebar made no difference. The method is a good one however there are exceptions. Thank you.
I did this when I was nineteen years old for my mom. Water main busted under the driveway. Instead of fixing it I dug holes on both sides, placed what you did on your pipe except I placed a jet nozzle on the other end and forced the new pipe through. Success, Saved her and her insurance a boatload of cash.
It works like charm I was showed that trick back in 91 from my old boss we usually used a pipe bigger than I need that way you could get more than one pipe or run a pipe and the wires for the stations valves and I dig a side tunnel for drainage both sides but just take your pipe cuter and make some teeth once in you can cut them off no problem
my first thought, how well does this work if your base was properly compacted rock? to protect from both running in to rock base and cracking in your concrete, better to dig down further as the load decreases on the concrete above.
If you glue a pvc cap on the end and drill a hole in the center it will go faster and act like a jet and be easier . This is how i do it for my plumbing company.
Was thinking that myself, a piece thats pointed bout 3 inches maybe with a piss hole hole at the end, that way its more drilling with tje water pressure its pointed end, and does not allow mote dirt washed out from jaming a blunt end.
I have never done this but after watching this using water to push aside the substrate under the concrete to push through the pipe is ingenious but I see one problem with this : the integrity of the concrete driveway substrate had been compromised. Over the years of driving over the void where the pipe is will eventually crack and collapse. Personally a bad idea to do unless a grout or a slurry has been pump in to fill the void left by the water pushing the dirt aside. Thanks for sharing your project.
Next time fix a reduction at the tip of the pipe with the water to act as a jetting nozzle and place it in another pipe. That way the spent water with the displaced sand or gravel will come out through the outer pipe which will remain stuck tightly, thus supporting the weight of the concrete and reducing the possibility of cracking. I've seen deep wells sunk using this method.
Have done similar but with pressure washer &. fabricated the end of hose and use the red top tip that comes with the machine works good and a shop vac to divert the h20 Same as they pressure washed my drainfield and had a pump truck and a big vacuum truck that was 15 years ago water is a powerful thing
Sometimes in newer homes the contractors bring in roller to really pack the earth when installing driveways and some places just have a natural high clay percentage. If you add a 2" section down to 1-1/2 to 1-1/4 then about 20 to 30 foot of 3/4" the restricking pipe size really puts a punch to your water pressure.
Home Depot has a kit for this using a nozzle on the end and a connection for the hose at the other end. just leave the pipe in after you're done hook up to it
One important point that was not mentioned is that if you need to cross a, say, 8 foot driveway, then you need to dig a trough 8 feet long out from the starting location in order for the 8 foot long PVC pipe to lay flat and horizontal (even in height to your starting hole) which is typically about 4 or 5 inches below the top of your concrete driveway. If you don't dig the trough long enough then the PVC pipe will dig downward and not stay horizontal at 4 or 5 inches - it will instead come out the other side at some much deeper point.
That was cool to watch. Comcast sent a drilling company out to my house. They had a big ass machine with a long drill bit to go under my 2 car driveway to put a single cable wire (no conduit) to my house from the main source by the street. I thought that was cool. This was much cooler and quicker. I'm not sure how well this method would work for me as my soil is pretty much clay (Indiana). It's difficult to dig even small holes in my dirt. But I wondered how this method would impact driveway cracking later on? Or does the dirt wrap around that conduit nice and snug? Thanks.
I have seen this done in northern climates but usually go much deeper to minimize issues with water, freezing, settling, etc. Have also seen guys rig up a steel extension pipe and do it with a pressure washer. (look out for flying mud!)
I would think if you have a concern about caverning, that you could drill holes every so couple of feet across the driveway after snapping a chalk line, and inject with concrete from a commercial chalking gun, or with some kind of industrial Great Stuff foam type filler. Then just patch the holes to match driveway.
Much easier .. Before I put in my driveway I put two 1 inch pipes across & sealed each end so will have no problem if I need to install a substitute electricity or water across the finished area..
So I bore for a living. Yes this is an easy way to get a pipe under your driveway. But if you add nozzle to the front of it, and give it good pressure you’ll push this through in minutes. Also people that are worried about loss of soil, you’re only bringing back the cuttings that is getting blasted with the nozzle.
Yep! 60 years ago my dad showed me how to do this while extending the sprinkler system at my grandmother's house to the street side of the sidewalk. He used a piece of galvanized pipe with a brass inline garden nozzle on the leading end of the pipe. Took about a minute to get under the sidewalk, then he unscrewed the nozzle and "adapter", screwed an elbow onto the pipe along with a riser and the brass sprinkler head and connected the upstream end of the pipe to the existing system with a union. He left the holes open for a short while so things could dry out & I don't remember there being much play in the pipe before he filled in the holes. As a 10 year old kid I was pretty impressed!
Jeff, why did he not backfill, and horizontally tamp around CPVC? Isn't he basically creating a future sink hole? I appreciate your expertise, and response. I want to run a few french drains around my house (red clay, bottom of a hill, I get all the run off), and pitch then to the low point. Maybe a cistern.
Lowes sells a kit for 5 bucks to glue on your pvc pipe,it has a tapered end to wash through with and a hose fitting you glue on the other endto connect your hose very easy to do. Use this method all the time putting in sprinkler systems.
Good idea. Seems it might be easier if you chopped a “kings crown” into the tip to be able to twist and shout (humor) to grind when needed to be cut off clean after penetration completion. Also, stay well below stones. Tree roots are also a problem in some locations.
I like your method of getting a watering line for a drip watering line. When I do mine I’m thinking of grinding teeth shaped on the end to help break the soil with. Thank you for the hands approach to bring it done.
You just created a void under the driveway. It will crack there and eventually fault. Next time you might pick to go under at a concrete joint and then place play sand at the joint to backfill.
I put a pipe under a driveway, just like you did. A few months later the concrete cracked exactly over the pipe and subsided 1/4 " but has been stable ever since.
Of course this method will over dig the ground needed for the pipe, this in turn can result in settlement of the concrete driveway and cracks could form. If that's not a problem go ahead and use this simple method, but of course it will only work this easy in sandy gravely soils. or the sub base of the drive. Clays and of course rocky ground is another ball game. I've worked in the tunnelling industry from leaving school 1960 until retiring in 2015, ground loss is a big no, no. We mitigate this with keeping positive pressure on the face and surround, measure the excavated material as is comes out and only take out the equivalent amount as the forward progress made. OK this may be a bit over the top for a gardening job, but it's would be a shame the ruin a drive way just to get water across.
This works fine in a sandy soil, you can dig a well with this technique but I don't fancy your chances in good old English clay! God bless everyone. Maranatha. >
Excellent how-to! Thanx! I wonder if I were to cut a couple V notches in the end of the pipe if it would help cut stubborn dirt while having to twist the “bit”.
I would cut myself one to 3 access holes across driveway and try making a homemade curved spray nozzle on a power washer. In Texas a garden hoses pressure aint going to do jack BLEEP! BTW CHANCES HITTING LARGE LIME ROCK BACKFILL IN TEXAS REALLY HIGH
Remember when they put in the concrete driveway, they compact layers of water shedding material to keep water out from under the concrete so it has a stable layer for the weight of concrete and vehicles.... you just destroyed that...
Nope you use schedule 40 pipe and your not washing a tone of dirt of any thing the shedding your talking about allows the water to be absorbed into the soil and the pipe lends support to the concrete you’re not taking some huge amount Iv had some of these pipes in for 30 yrs now and the drive ways have not shown anymore ware than you expect of a drive with no pipe same with walks if you were putting several pipes side bye side several ft in width you might get a reaction but because your replacing the material for a pipe the change is minimal
I’d be curious to know how this would work in a Northern climate. It’s possible that the void left will fill up with water and expand in a freeze and crack the concrete. I’ve seen pvc drain pipes plug up, fill with water and freeze and crack concrete.
That only works if you have sandy, soft soil. Try doing that in clay or rocky soil and you will be out of luck. When I worked for the cable company we used Pneumatic "moles" to bore under driveways and roads.
our soils in the NE region are a bit heavier and rocky than yours. we have a slip on bit for our pipes that has a series of small teeth in the lead edge. they bite into and move the wet muck a bit better than a smooth lead PVC pipe end.
We'd glue fittings on each end of the pipe, pipe's gotta be longer than the bore. One fitting takes the end of your common garden hose, that's your bore medium. The other takes one of those short, brass pressure nozzles you can buy at any garden shop. Trench a groove so you can keep flush with the concrete, turn on the water, and have fun. The brass nozzle can take a lot of beating, where just the plastic wears out quickly. Be aware that if you hit a rock and deflect, your bore could end up deeper, or left/right of your planned bore line. Remember, this is a water bore, not a drill.
Don't be a fool. Save yourself time and trouble. Just go to a local tools/construction Rental Centers and rent the machine that digs ahead of itself like a mole. You can dig under a full basement. Simple and the tech has been atound for 35+ years.
I have done that and seen where too much soil gets washed out Then they drive on the concrete and it fractures because of the loss of soil under the concrete
I have done the same thing many times except once inserted I turn the water all the way up and I use a high pressure nozzle at the end it goes much faster and a lot less labor
You could take a hack saw and cut the push end so it almost has teeth to help cut when you rotate your pipe. Act like a cutter. Just a thought. Great idea!!
A variant to "saintnash's" comment that will dramatically improve jetting speed and further reduce caverning is the addition of a 3" - 4" long bolt protruding from the jetting cap. It doesn't even need to be ground to a point. Just center drill an appropriate size hole in the cap and affix a 1/4 or 3/8" bolt with a nut. The bolt will displace earth like warm butter! I would also make sure those jetting holes are small. Like 1/8" dia max! The less earth you can disturb the better. Even with these mods I agree with FortunaZKat's method for being the least prone to creating a crack zone. Wakodahatchee Chris
Great video. A few things to consider might be...cut the end of the pipe on an angle to possibly make it easier going in under driveway. Add a shutoff valve to save walking back & forth to the hose bib at the house. Use a little longer pipe so you aren't smashing your hands against the concrete at the end. Well done 😎👍
Years ago I had a new 3500 sq ft building built. Before paving the the drive, which went past the building from street to street I laid three 1 inch and one two inch capped PVC pipes near each end of the drive for future use. About 3 years later we needed to get a com line and a sprinkler line to the other side of the driveway. No problem. Obviously will not work with an existing drive. Just an idea for new construction.
We used pressure washer to do that in less than 2 minutes I think. But it was much shorter than that and we just drilled with pressure washer from both sides...
