I found your video while searching for Nikon P950 tutorials. The words "crazy sharp" caught my attention, so I watched. You just taught me things I've been trying to understand for years! And you made it sound so easy. Thank you! You have a new subscriber here!
A pitfall of shooting wide open is that DoF can be so shallow that often a camera will focus at infinity and many photographers will not notice. You can still get nice photos at infinity focus with a well built lens. You will just be missing out on a little sharpness.
"but be careful, the higher you go the more noise and grain you'll start to see " unless you intentionally overexpose the subject and reduce it in post to hide that noise. I've shoot night track races at ISO 16,000 on a crop sensor DSLR and you can't see noise unless you pixel peep. It's called ETTR or expose to the right (of the histogram) I should also mention that shooting wide open at f/1.4 or f/4 isn't going to give you the best results optically, most lenses perform best at f/8-f/10 meaning chromatic aberration and lens softening will be less at those apertures.
This is a good video! I have to point out two things though. All lenses are sharp - you just need to know it’s limitations and how to use it to your advantage. Also, stopping down to f16 can cause diffraction and can lead to just as soft an image as shooting wide open. I like your style and your clarity - very informative. Please keep up the good work!
This is the first video from you that I've seen. It was perfectly pitched, useful for absolute beginners and those with some experience. You've got a new subscriber and i look forward to going back through your catalogue. Thank you🙂
Why get off auto when the camera can take far better images than most in manual? Most people with cameras 'do not' get so 'creative' with it to make a difference.
Great advice, if I can add on a bit. if you want to be a good photographer always practice with very old gear, I'm talking about the very first generations of digital cameras. A lot of people do not manage to grasp the interrelatedness of the photographing parameters due to how "smart" modern cameras have become. With old gear you learn about these parameters better. Modern cameras do so much by themselves in good conditions but when conditions go bad a lot of photographers lose it. Extra tip, make it habit of exercising your arms especially if you do a lot hand held photography, get a light set of bumbells and work those arms out, the arm muscles become much more steadier.
Perfect advice, great teacher! - However, here are some additional techniques we can use. 1. Use a Monopod - when a tripod is not handy enough. This can reduce shaking a lot. 2. Use image stabilisation - most cameras have this feature anyway. 3. Be careful when you do focus-and-recompose, especially with a DSLR and a wide aperture: recomposing moves the focal plane!!! And suddenly the tack sharp eye is out of focus. It took me a long time to identify this problem, especially when shooting people. The easiest way to solve this is to reduce the aperture. However, esp. in people photography you want to shoot wide open. With mirror-less cameras you simply move the focus-point to where the models' eye is (on a DSLR the area of focus-points is often too small). -Mino
I once got bogged down with sharpness and would only use lenses at their sweet-spot and with hyperfocal settings, and took some insanely sharp images, which I hated as using those techniques basically takes away all the artistic elements of photography and makes it more of a mathematical process, after years of shooting 35mm manual slr with prime lenses I never struggle with settings though, it's all intuitive and that's why I love shooting Fuji as they don't have PASM which I've never been a huge fan of, they have their own version of it of course, but it's far less intrusive and I have everything set to manual at all times anyway as I find no need for any auto settings when shooting landscapes.
A very important subject was not touched in the video : when using a tripod also use the 2 sec. or 10 sec. timer of the camera, or use a cable release. 😉
@@Thisisme918 The only time I find it essential to turn off the IS / VR on the lens is for long exposures that exceed the time-out of the metering, around 8 seconds on most cameras I’ve used. If you leave the stabilisation on and exceed the timer the stabilisation will stop and the moving element can drop / park. I had this trying to take a shot of a castle and decorative chain lights, the stabilisation timed out and the lights became J shaped stripes. You can determine the cut off time by just 1/2 pressing and releasing the shutter and listening to the lens for the whirring noise of the stabiliser to stop.
I came to your channel by accident, but surely not by subscribing to it. I definitely learned from this video not to press too hard on the shutter button.
Great points. Even seasoned photographers need to see this, just to slow down and get it right. Only other advice 1) cable release ir remote for tripid shoting And 2) turning off VR or lens stableasation features, not to counter act using a tripod. Thanks
Thanks for the comment Mark. Turning off IS when on a tripod is something I need to test on my Sony gear. I never do it but who knows, I might be leaving a bunch of sharpness on the table.
This is the first video of yours that I’ve seen and it was very informative. I’m New to photography and I take in all the information I can. Thank you, you have a new subscriber and look forward to your next video
Great video, thank you - nice and clear summing up the factors. One other thing I think could be valuable for new photographers to keep in the back of their minds for static subjects like landscapes: if the 'focusing 1/3 the way into the scene' doesn't give you enough front to back sharpness, focus stacking can give you as much depth-of-field as you want. A bit more involved than the other tips you covered but potentially a scene-saver if depth-of-field is giving troubles.
Just one more tip, when using a tripod , be careful to turn off the image stabilisation (IS), both on the lens and in-camera if the camera has it. IS is great for hand-held, but can cause problems when on a tripod as the IS device ‘vibrates’ to counter hand-held movement.
Is that still needed on modern cameras? I know on some of the Fuji lenses they say that it'll out that it's on a tripod and turn off IS. Honestly, I basically never turn off IS/IBIS on my Sony or Fuji.
This ISO thing only works for Landscape photography and static subjects( the easiest photography). Landscapes do not move ( unless the wind is blowing). So it's easy to put the camera on a tripod and shoot at ISO100 with a shutter speed of 3 seconds or much more. Move over to wildlife photography, birds in flight.............and it's a different world. Another thing not mentioned, the shorter the focal length, the greater the depth of field. It's not one size fits all with regard to Depth Of Field. Also, the APSC Sensor has a greater depth of field than a full frame sensor. There is much more to this. Good video though. Gets a thumbs up
At 14:30 the video shows you dusting off a camera lens that is pointed upward. The problem with that is that the dust particles tend to get pushed into the lens mounting. A better way is to point the lens downward while doing this, so gravity helps the particles to fall away from the lens.
Another TIP a PRO Shared with me in regards to the SHUTTER BUTTON, is to set the timer at 2 sec then lock focus, tap the shutter and wait for it to go off....VOILA. Of course, don't move the camera until the shutter is finished..😂😂 This has worked every time for me and I now use it for landscapes, low light, street, real estate stills, auto shows and anything NON MOVING.
I recently changed from using a camera with stabilisation to one without and had to re-learn all the camera holding techniques you mentioned. The extra one I find helps for static scenes is to press the shutter release at the point when you have exhaled but before you take the next breath in. Pause for just a moment before taking the picture (not so long that you have to take a massive gulp of air afterwards!). Also, ISO is now so good on cameras that you can usually go much higher than before. If I’m hand holding, I usually set my ISO limit at 6400 and my minimum shutter speed at 1/250. Once the camera gets to 6400, it starts to lower the shutter speed to compensate - with IBIS this usually isn’t a problem unless the subject is moving, in which case I can just open up the aperture a bit.
Really good video. I think a lot of these points need to be studied in depth by beginner photographers to fully understand what he’s talking about.. I didn’t consider looking up what aperture my lenses shoot best at for landscapes and turns out they all shoot the sharpest at F4. I thought that would be a little to wide for big landscape shots if I want to get everything in focus unless I’m focus stacking. Is that correct?
High shutter speed for wildlife...especially with long lenses. For moving mammals typically > 1/500 sec, for large flying birds typically > 1/1500 sec, In Body Stabilization (IBIS) in camera body and lens also helps. For stationary animals spot focus, for very close birds eye detection, for moving or flying animals zonal focus.
You're right. I didn't really comment on the length of the lens vs shutter speed RE catching movement. I should have mentioned that. Thanks for the comment.
Good point about most lens having a "sweet spot" usually around f5.6-f8 (there are exceptions}. I try to aviod f16 as defraction will cause a bit of softness. lenses are usually sharpest near the center and softer in the corners.
Good general advice. I used to be able to hand hold 1/15 sec. Propped up against a wall or something. Those days are gone. IBIS and/or lens IS helps. My canons don't have IBIS but my lenses do. Seem fine. Back in the film days, I used ISO 50! Technology has moved on! The latest cameras seem to be OK to ISO400.
One thing I've learned is to hold steady through the shot. Have the mindset that after I snap the image, I won't move for about 2 seconds. Sometimes, we tend to jerk the camera once we snap the picture. So I'm holding still through the picture.
If you want to see sharp, like so sharp your eyes will bleed, get your hands on a Simga DP1 or DP2. It has different type of sensor. It doesn't require a Bayer filter.
@@Photography-Explained I have a bluetooth remote release (does zoom / focus too) from Amazon that works a treat on both my ZV-E10 & A6700, it wasn't expensive either, which is great!
Generally a good video for beginning photographers. However, it does promote the trope that iso is a measure of sensor sensitivity. In fact, iso is controlled by a downstream amplifier. All the sensor does is count electrons that have been generated by photons of light. I’d like to see any video that discusses noise get this right so that photographers can understand where noise actually comes from.
In microscopy🔬, we get the best contrast (and deep of field) when the condenser (diaphragm) is closed to the maximum (pin hole). However, to get the best resolution of the objective, we need to open up the condenser a little bit. We loose a bit of contrast and deep of field, but can see more structures. It's all about physic and camera use pretty much the same principles here.
Basic photo knowledge from +30 years ago. Know the rules to break / bend them. Noise / grain can't only be a stylistic tool - it can also imitate details without killing sharpness... The perfect photo doesn't have to come out of camera, and many other thoughts... These casual guides are helpful and handy, but take a look over your shoulder too.
Hi Albert, funny you should ask! I'm literally working on a bunch of printable "cheat sheets" at the moment. Keep an eye out next week and they'll be available for free for people who watch the channel.
I was wondering for the Shutter speed rules if the sensor was an important factor. I have a d500 and a d850. I try to shoot at 2 times the focal length on the d850. Maybe its my technique, the weight or the 45mpx.
Another method to improve sharpness is to throw away those brushes and stamps you show in the video, unless you have a serious method of cleaning them. Usually photographers have no such method and just spread the grease evenly over all their lenses. A regularly washed cloth or disposable wipes are better.
You're welcome. I'm glad you enjoyed the video :). I got the tripod off amazon "SIRUI Camera Tripod for Travel, Carbon Fibre Tripod for Camera AM-225+B-00K". Super lightweight but not that sturdy. I use a Gitzo tripod if I'm taking things seriously or I'm shooting in bad weather. Hope that helps.
@Photography-Explained I just picked up the Neewer one. I have been doing some moon photography, and a ball head is about impossible. I have a star tracker, but I'm working my way up to it. I have been out of the hobby for a long time.
A little discussed issue. Sometimes an image can, indeed, be unnaturally sharp. Don't get me wrong, sharp is important, but increasingly I see images so sharp that it's disturbing to the eye. An image shouldn't be sharper than reality.
An additional tip: Always check your lens image stabilisation is switched on. It can easily be accidentally switched off as I once discovered. Another: use an unfashionable UV filter. Cleaning a front element scratches it - period. Clean a UV filter instead and throw it away when it gets old. Another: Get a chamois leather for wiping off rain drops. Otherwise, a great video, not rocket science but great advise.
I started off with the UV filters but they were causing flare in the sun rise landscape stuff I like to do. Appreciate the comment though. I guess I just have to live with my front elements slowly getting scratched up.
@@Photography-Explained no need to put a $100 filter on a $3K lens. More importantly is to have and use a neck strap if not using the tripod and for anytime one is walking around and more importantly use a lens shade for helping with flare and more importantly if by chance the photographer or the camera make a quick visit to mother earth or harder surface. Regarding focusing in portrait photography -- many years ago I learned from Al Gilbert that one should not focus on the eye but rather on the bridge of the nose and then one can make use of the DOF of the lens and aperture and focus distance to provide "acceptable focus of both eyes whereas if the lens is focused on the far eye the near eye will never been in good focus or visa versa. When the subject is in full face generally this will not be an issue but also generally a 2/3 facial view is more attractive to the subject. I like to try to find something in the scene that is going to give an approximately 18% shade of gray or a proportion of that and focus on that location if it can be 1/3 of the way into the overall image unless there is a subject matter of most importance in a different location and then make use of imaging software to appropriately adjust the final resultant image.
I never understand f16 rule that is so crazy and diffraction and distortion starts to kick in make the image more blur no longer sharp sweet spot f5.6 f8
A great way to summarize several tips, which are always good to discover or remember. I'm lucky enough to possess two cameras. One (small) is on a S focus mode because I use it mostly for street photo when you need to be fast and discreet. I set the other on the manual mode because I have time and it's the best way to make sure your focus is where you want and as accurate as possible. Having the focusing highlight option ON makes my life easier. I always favour the apperture mode because it's so decisive in the type of photo, so I have the rest (ISO and speed) in an automatic set up. Shooting at very high ISO (12,600) creates noise but some photo editors have become extremely good at removing it without creating any blur (if photos in RAW mode). I use DxO photo lab for this task, which for me it's the best, but Topaz Photo AI is also very good at that job.
Sorry, incorrect - the ISO is the gain or "volume" applied to the image. The sensor's sensitivity is locked at design and manufacture - cant't be changed afterward. Just like film sensitivity is locked when they come up with how much silver will be put into the formula when manufactured.
Who cares? It's the effect that is important, not the why. Technical reasons are for gearheads. Increase ISO and the camera can shoot in lower light conditions....therefore, for practical purposes, the sensor is more sensitive to light. Whether it is or is not technically is not relevant. It ACTS like it is. That's all that matters. The rest will just help you win a game of Photography Trivia. I don't need to know why the car goes faster when I push the pedal harder. As a driver, I just need to know that it does.
The propensity toward rolling shutter (you may get some action shots with weird warp and wobble...won't be every one, but will definitely ruin a few shots here and there), and the fact that some cameras only shoot in 12 bit instead of 14 bit color. Still, the silent, or near silent, shutter can be a boon when shooting skittish wildlife, and the lack of shutter shock can contribute to more sharp images. Like everything in photography, it's a tradeoff.
It should allow you to get sharp images of stationary subjects at three to five stops slower shutter speed than without the stabilization. Doesn't help with moving subjects.
Hmmm, I've found that most landscape photography channels rarely recommend f16, in fact most talk about the dangers of refraction at f16 and higher (ff obviously, as f16 on mf is far from unusual) I've actually found that most channels actually tend to recommend f8 to f11. Then of course there's the need for a narrow aperture the closer foreground is, or wideish aperture if shooting long with no foreground. Then of course there's the frankly ridiculous notion that a landscape image absolutely must be tack sharp front to back, even our eyes, masterpieces of nature that they are, aren't capable of seeing a scene sharp front to back. There's a perfectly valid argument for natural DoF in landscape images, especially in woodland, which I tend to photograph at around 5.6 to allow for natural falloff through the scene. So (pun intended) not everything is black and white.
Thanks for the comment. I watch most of the big landscape channels and I've seen it mentioned a bunch which is why I included it. Perhaps I need to watch more skilled photographers :D.
@@Photography-Explained Good last comment. Lately I have been using a Viltrox 27 mm f 1.2 with a Fuji X T5 and use f4 - f 5.6 which tends to be the "sweet" spot of the lens and the rest of the techniques to get sharp images with sometimes some minor tweaks in PP using PhotoScape X Free/Pro software.
I still can’t figure out what I did wrong. New to Fuji, (X-T1) using the kit lens. Taking pics of my grandson in low light. So I put it on auto ISO, lens on auto and on Face Detection, and spot metering. When I shot at low speed, handheld, the exposure was correct, but totally out of focus. If I tried to up the speed to 1/160, say, (still very slow) the exposure was way too dark. So why didn’t auto ISO kick in? It stayed at 800. I later noticed that the ‘Default sensitivity’ was set at 200. Is that the problem?
Hey Maryl, couple of thoughts - Do you have a high enough max ISO set up? i.e. when you change your shutter to 1/160 can the ISO go high enough to manage the exposure? If you haven't changed any of the ISO ranges in camera, "Auto3" will get the upper ISO range you need - fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x100f/menu_shooting/iso_auto_setting/index.html You didn't mention your aperture. Really you need f2.8 lenses on Fuji at a minimum to take pictures if it's getting dark an you need to freeze the movement of a a kid running around. One of the kit lenses will only do this at it's widest end and the other kit lens that I used to have starts at f4. Hope that helps!
@@Photography-Explained Thank you very much for replying to me! I had thought by setting my lens on ‘ Auto’, that it would pick the right aperture for me. I obviously am a newbie, so will look more into this. And yes, today upped my ISO sensitivity to 6400. Most photos I took that day were ISO 800 and at F4. I am 81 and am realizing handholding the camera is a problem now. I think I need a faster lens, or use a tripod. The goofy thing is - if I had been using my phone, I would have gotten great shots. How do they do that!!! Thank you again for your help.
@@Photography-Explained Agreed, but it would be worth stating that if the subject is moving, and we can't use a high enough shutter speed, we won't get sharp results despite all your tips.
You can’t have a photo that is in focus from front to back. Focus only occurs on one plane. DOF only makes a photo appear in focus in front of and in rear of the focus plane.
Here are the best ways to achieve sharp images - 1. Know which are among the best lenses ... and actually use them. Many of them are not remarkably expensive, but NONE of them are "inexpensive." 2. Use a high enough shutter speed to stop motion of both your subject and your camera. It's quite often a much higher shutter speed than you'd otherwise assume, often shorter than 1/2000 of a second. 3. Know how to get absolutely accurate focus, and know what to focus on. 4. Use an aperture which is a few stops down from wide open. We're talking about lens resolution here, and not about depth of field, which is an entirely different topic. Lens defraction at very small f/stops such as f/16 and thereabouts will reduce lens resolution ... not to a remarkable degree, but at least somewhat noticeable if you happen to be a pixel peeper.
Regardless of shutter speed, ISO etc.. always check for any front or back focus issues with your lenses. Not only dslr's but mirror less cameras can have them too. I you do not get this right first nothing well help.
@@Photography-Explained There are multiple ways such as a calibration aid. It is a sort of ruler placed at a 45 degree angle. Or just do some trial and error with the af fine tune feature in your camera and see which entered valua gives the best result. Or use a tripod, focus manually on a subject with your liveview at 200%.Then hit the release button half way and see if your focus scale of your lens stays at the same position. And there are other ways but these I use.
@@Photography-Explained One thing about the last method I forgot. After you have focussed manually shut off the liveview and then hit the release button. You want to verify if the phase detection autofocus is on spot. If you leave it in liveview you will you use contrast detection autofocus and af fine tune has no influence on that. May a bit complicated but on the internet there is more than enough to read about that. This only goes for dslr's I think.
This is true. Mirrorless can have this issue, though it is rare. The problem is that, while DSLRs had a way to adjust focus issues with individual lenses, mirrorless cameras do not. In most cases, if it is severe, you will have to send the camera and lens combo to the manufacturer for adjustment. Thankfully, with mirrorless it is rare.
What about using crop sensor lenses on a full frame camera because you just bought a big boy camera but you've spent thousands on crop sensor lenses and can't afford to go and spend thousands more 9n fullframe lenses.
@@Photography-Explained oh the question was about shutter speed in relation to lens size and having to make the adjustment for if you were using a 35mm or a crop sensor. So what if I'm using crop sensor lens on a full frame camera.
It could have been "blurry" because - - Aperture was too open and so there wasn't enough depth of field to capture everyone. - Shutter speed was too low and so small camera movement caused the blurring. Either way, perhaps increase your ISO so that the aperture can be lower or shutter speed higher. Hope that helps.
There's no need to compensate for a focal length factor for APSC sensors when setting shutter speed to avoid shake (or exposure for that matter). The focal factor only calculates the angle of view captured by the APSC sensor compared to the angle of view captured by the same focal length lens on a full frame camera. There is no difference in ACTUAL focal length, the factor only determines APPARENT focal length. The APSC sensor creates an image that APPEARS to be 1.5x that of the image produced by a full frame camera, but ONLY when the two images are reproduced at the same size. But the two images are NOT the same size because the sensors are not the same size. When using lenses of the same focal length on cameras of both formats, the size of the image on the sensor of both cameras is the same. For instance, if you use a 100mm macro lens to capture a dime life size on a full-frame sensor and then take a life size image of the dime with the same lens on an APSC camera, the size of the dime in both images are, BY DEFINITION, the same size (i.e. life size). The only noticeable difference in the resulting photos is that the dime takes up more of the frame in the APSC photo because the APSC sensor is smaller. You can test this yourself if you have a full frame camera and an APSC camera with a lens that fits on both cameras. Any difference in image size between the two (in pixels) will be from a difference in the pixel pitch of the two sensors. (Correct one or the other image for pixel pitch, and you should see that elements of the same photo made with both cameras are identical in size.) There is no real increase in apparent shake with an APSC camera because there's no real increase in focal length. (Increased focal length WILL magnify shake because a longer focal length increases the size of the image on the sensor. Any blur caused by shake will be similarly magnified. But focal length factor isn't an actual increase in focal length, only an increase in APPARENT focal length due to the sensor's reduced field of view compared to a full frame sensor.) If you don't believe me, do the experiment. If you are able, use the same full-frame lens on a full frame camera and on an APSC camera. Using a macro lens and photographing something at 1:1 or 1:2 (or whatever is the highest magnification for the lens) with both cameras, then compare the resulting images. Open the full frame image and drop the APSC image on it. You will this is correct.
I disagree. That has not been my experience. I would always increase shutter speed by the crop factor. However, with modern stabilization it really isn't as relevant. I was shooting an owl last night with an 800mm lens hand held at 1/250 and they are tack sharp. That bird was bouncing all over the place in the viewfinder. Didn't matter.
if you want your views count to increase you do it right ... if you want to build your channel community of fellow photographers I doubt a bit that this is the right content for us ... but good luck with your channel and have a good light ...
@@Photography-Explained It's my opinion but it seems to me that you've decided to make your videos to feed algorithm ... It could be your intent and decision, than my apologize .. You can ofc lead your channel wherever you wish ... Personally I would rather find another new channel about photography for photographers rather than channel where you describe what is ISO or Aperture .. But again, your channel, your decision .. Good luck with whatever you're doing and have a good light for your photography
@@mikehoskin1674 1) I did, I spoke for myself, very clearly, even noticed that, 2) I spoke for myself (I considered this point so important that I've mentioned that twice), 3) the only clear thing here is that you obviously don't understand to discussion, to brainstorming ideas or concepts, to diversity of opinions, to collaborative approach, etc ... 4) and of course it seems that you're only able to perceive ideas of other people in two extremes, black and white thinking .. you don't see a little nuances that form many possible ways and resolutions that are otherwise hidden for people who cannot perceive these particular details ..
Not sure if anyone else notices this trend of people varying their voice volume. Sounding very loud then they're so quiet you can't understand what word they are saying. It has to be the most frustrating thing, I currently unfollow & block these channels due to it. I'm not trying to be mean, it's truly a pet peeve of mine. Either you are trying to say something or you're not.. unsure? Zap
Hey mate. I'm sorry that you couldn't understand me. It's not some trick the way I talk on the videos. That's generally how I talk. If you can't understand something it could be that the audio isn't being compressed enough. I appreciate the feedback. What did you use to listen to the video? Phone speaker, headphones etc?
If i could produce a video of this calibre - highly informative, non-patronising, friendly, I would be very pleased. Moreover, it is free. There’s a lot of information here for beginners and intermediate photographers. The pace is perfect. As for volume fluctuations in the delivery, I truly didn’t notice. I was absorbing his advice so I may have been distracted by my learning. I suspect that you already have the knowledge that he was imparting. YT has videos on everything. Sometimes I find myself watching videos of little personal interest. It’s best to switch to something else if one is bored. Otherwise, one can get overly picky.
@99muddy99 I am sorry that I hurt your feelings. It was constructive criticism. I do produce high budget Tv & Movies. If you are making this comment due to the channel I'm using, this is not my main YT channel FYI. I have worked in Tv & Film professionally for years. You are being rather petty & sensitive over a comment not directed to you.. it truly doesn't look good
At 10.25, 1/2000th for a racing car! 😳 What nonsense, pan with the car and use 1/60th to 1/100th or so, put a single focus point on something small and prominent like a door handle, mirror or decal and keep it there and you’ll have a picture of a car racing and not a car parked on the track!
He is trying to introduce people who are new to photography and teach them ways to get acceptable photos the methods you mention will come later as they progress.He is trying to demistify manual mode and giving good advice ie shutter priority and apature priority modes and auto ISO, and as the person learns the more advanced things will come. Don't be so dismissive to good advice for someone trying to learn !
@@alistairstephenson4145 Having introduced several people to manual mode including one registered blind, I firmly believe that it is easier to teach them to get the results they desire early, they are already p’d off with their photos and are trying to improve, almost every camera will give you cars parked on the track in auto mode, those are the photos that made them disillusioned in photography in the first place!
@@Photography-Explained Just think that possibly 24999 folks enjoyed and likely gleaned something of value from the presentation or the comments. Glad you "wasted" you time making it LOL!!!
