How to get Darker Values with Pencil 

Thanks sir please help as more Thanks

They're so lucky..😊✏️

* Cries in left handed artist*

Good thing he isn't left handed

@@spuddart3540 😭😭😭this comment is so underrated LMAOOO

VERY underrated

because it requires a lot of understanding and proper handling as he said its very toxic and can harm your skin and lungs. that's why I'm so curious on why he's not using a charcoal or a black graphite instead.

Sounds like zhc🤣🤣

@@zqxy694 ur right😂😂😂😂

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA Well, as someone who went through art school 2002-06, I wonder how long ago you're pining for, because I don't remember any profs at U Waterloo being anything greater than what you lament about artists 'these days'. They've been fakers since the birth of 'modern art' (code for "if I do something totally silly, but no one else did it before - because it's totally silly - then I can sell it for a lot of money if I know the right people who can help me hype myself" )

That's really lovely feedback -- thank you!

@@JonoDry pls, can i use charcoal with solvent ??

I tried it.. awesome

Thanks for the tip man. I’ve been looking for a method to fill in large dark areas in my drawings. It’s very tedious and the results not so good. That “shiny black” graphite effect is especially annoying and really ruins the work. I’ll try your suggestion 🙏🏼👍🏼

@@j_shelby_damnwird glad to help 🙏

wow

Two years later and there are pencils on the market that work well for this too. Faber Castell make the Pitt Graphite Matt range in grades down to 14B, though 7B or 8B seem to be the least shiny and the darkest. Staedtler make the Mars Lumograph Black range (not the Mars Lumograph range, the word "Black" has to be in there) and those are just as amazing. The Staedtler range go down to 12B but once again the 7B or 8B seem to actually be the darkest and most matt in the range. It is certainly worth trying them all out to see what suits you.

youtube; better than college

Yes. You have to store it in a fireproof box

I appreciate that! Thanks so much😊

@@JonoDry what is that solvent you use to get darker tones where can I get it

@@vamsikrishna628 he uses linseed oil. In Hindi it’s called til ka tel I guess. That white and black stuff.

@@JonoDryis there a way I can draw so it’s easier to erase with my tombo mono, it’s really hard for me to get a bright line and it seems pretty easy watching your videos

I'm so glad you like it😊 Yes it's on its way!

Oh my gosh that's terrible I'm so sorry🙈

@@JonoDry sir which solution do you use with graphite powder plz give me proper name of that solution

@@happyart7839 He was using Gamblin Gamsol as a solvent and Gamblin Linseed Oil for the oil. Both can be found and pretty much any art store

fire safe = a completely closed (no airing or draining holes) and full metal (no plastic bottom, bag or inner bucket) trash can with a complementary lid (full metal no holes), preferably hinged to the can and impossible to leave open, f.e. with a foot pedal. you can find them as standard bins for metal workshops where oil drenched cloth, paper and even clothes are part of the trade and the occupational hazards that come with the industry.

I used charcoal for a little while but I found that it would result in the shine of the graphite being far more noticeable against my darkest shadows. I ended up moving back to purely graphite just to maintain uniformity throughout a piece.

Thank you so much! That's really kind to say😊

What solvents would you recommend for these wonderful dark values, other than linseed oil?

Thank you for your support!

Both worries are unlikely. As Jono says, linseed dries (because it oxidates), so no risk of seeping, because it becomes a solid. As used here, mixed with graphite, any slight yellowing will stay invisible because of the dark grahite particles.

I really wanted to try this technique too... i gave it a try but my drawing had the exact problems that you are concerned about. At first it looked just absolutely wonderfull, but after a month or so the oil started to seep through and affect the parts that are not completely black. I have not yet found a solution for this myself as there can be various causes for this to happen. Maybe the oil i used was too liquid or maybe i used too much of it... i don't know. But absolutely try it before you use it. And give your tests some time, because for me this all started to show after a month or so. Ps. Share your experience if you find something useful. ;)

@@kas88an have you tried water soluble graphite? Faber-Castell has it in different hardness and there's also water soluble graphite sticks, you can get really deep blacks and you can kind of erase a little bit

I also wondered that, Laurie. Edze, have you used linseed oil on paper before? The yellowing is a real effect, and like Jono said - he did various TESTS for this video, but they are still not dry. So he can't make any comment about the long term effects on one's drawing. Yellowing takes place over years and all paper slowly yellows, but paper that was painted on with oils changes dramatically in only months. (I can attest to this personally from experience) Kaspars, thanks for sharing your experience. Jono did say to be careful not to over-load your dabber, but I suspect that any amount of oil that is enough to transfer the medium will eventually result in at least some oil seepage like you experienced.

Unfortunately the acidity of a drying oil will damage the paper. A good quality WC-paper will perhaps sustain longer than other cheaper papers because of how it’s sized inside and on the surface. But the acidity of the oil is still far too aggressive for paper. And the oil as it continues to polymerize over the years will also become more and more brittle. Further, the linseed oil-or all drying oils for that matter-will yellow when it polymerizes. I would not recommend using oils with paper that hasn’t been prepared for oil paints if you want your artworks to last and look good longer than a few decades. Note that some solvents will also irreversible harm the cellulose. Although since they evaporate the “harming process” will end after that. And yes… oil will penetrate the fibers. The seizing may prevent some to penetrate just like it prevents water from penetrating. But the paper will still get “moist” by the oil. Oils in general penetrate fibrous materials easier than water. That doesn’t mean it will necessarily-as a binder and not a solvent-dissolve any graphite pencil marks on the surface. And because of that it may go undetected.

Glad to hear it! Thanks so much for watching :)

You're welcome 😊

Thank you so much for your support, Mahesh 🙂 🙏

That would be my preference as well. Little to no odor. 👍🏼