Great tips. Thanks CurryKitten and Crease, much appreciated you both sharing. The inverted yaw spin and rollout (1:44) was nice, and a fun transitional perspective.
Pretty impressive results, Wayne! It looks indefinitely better! 😃 Looking forward to the review of the other camera! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Cheers MC. I've filmed the other stuff, I just need to edit some video together - the workflow to get results from that one is completely different again!
I've got thumb pro W, after some experimenting i got fewer wobbles with this: In motion data: -load corresponding *.gcsv -0 sync points (remove all points manually, motion data seems to be in sync for the most part, but due to very noisy gyro the offsets are calculated wildly incorrectly) -low pass filter very low (5-10hz) -simple gyro integration
It is weird software, and to be honest I don't like it at all. I would much rather film on a GoPro and do zero post processing with it, but if you put the effort in, then you can get nice results - other people certainly have
Glad to hear it - although as a beginner, my advice would be to you to not worry about HD video. Concentrate on getting your flying nice and consistent to where you feel comfortable, and you can trust and rely on your equipment - and then think about adding HD recording to it
30 sync points at 1 sec each in a 4 min clip works really well for me. The frame rate drops and glitches are farther apart and it seems way overkill for that many sync points.
There's an amount of this due to the compression RU-vid uses which makes any grass details smooth together in a sort of unfocused haze. But that said, the GoPro goes through the same compression, so there's an obvious winner to the quality in cameras here
I'm sure it had a hard limit of much less in earlier versions. When he said 500 to me I didn't think it was possible. Double check you are on the latest GyroFlow, and do a quick calculation to figure out what your sync search side needs to be in order to fit 500 points into your clip length.
When I do a fast flip/roll, I have to do a set of sync points before it and after it. flips/rolls makes gyroflow crazy and it crashes on me. If I do 3-4 of them, then I just do sync points in between them and do maybe 100 syncs each.
i have a Nazgul too with a thumb pro, have to make a support for base of the cam and use the case for cam that comes with the thumb pro but its to soft and give me too many vibrations, I think gonna need to change that too to get videos that can use
That original TPU mount that came with the Thumb Pro was ok, but it was built for a very specific screw spacing for (I guess) a little cinewhoop or something. If you can get something more bespoke that fits the quad (obviously a 3d printer... or a friend with one is handy) then you can hopefully take away some of those vibes
Not much luck with the RunCam Thumb on a Rekon35 -- experimented with a number of different TPU camera mounts, my best result came from a PLA+ camera mount nothing makes sense -- I think harmonics vs propeller size has a lot to do with it, in the meantime I purchased a Hawkeye Firefly NakedCam V4 -- that works great with GyroFlow, and the video looks so much better -- after watching this at some stage I am going to retry RunCam Thumb, probably after experimenting with with different propellers and sizes, maybe you can make a video trying out different propellers and sizes with the RunCam Thumb and see if it makes a difference.
Props and the harmonic frequency makes all the difference I believe. When I ran this on a 2.5" cinewhoop I found the stabilization worked perfectly, the gyro wasn't full of noise - it was easy. The vibration frequency that a 5" produces, and potentially a 3" can be a nightmare. Interestingly, the Hawkeye Naked camera is the next one I'm testing, and I didn't get very good results with the two quads I tried initially... I still don't know if I'm that happy with the output. Is does make me worry that there is no one solution and you have to spend time tailoring your workflow for every single quad you have
I think the motor hits resonance frequency of the mount that video gets a bunch of motion blur but not really any jello. But its not frame resonance so the quad flies just fine. But I haven't tested this idea.
You should turn HyperSmooth off on ALL GoPro's, and stabilise with Reelsteady in the GoPro Player desktop app, or any of the older versions of Reelsteady. HyperSmooth is not optimised for FPV flying, and creates slight "jerky" movements, when you were actually flying perfectly smooth. This usually occurs when coming out of a smooth turn, in to a straight line.
What looks good to one person is, of course, very subjective, and to me Hypersmooth looks good, and I like the fact there's no additional post processing to do. Aside from that, while Reelsteady might be part of the GoPro desktop app, it's still a paid extra
@@CurryKitten yes that's true! It does generally do a fantastic job. It's only a small thing, and most people don't notice it. Just remember this comment if you knew you were flying in perfectly smooth lines, but the footage ends up having a slightly abrupt "jolt" when you come out of a smooth turn. Also a good point about it not being free. Thanks for your videos - have been learning a lot about OpenHD :)
I haven't had actual jello - although this is helped with an ND32 filter and a little bit of experimentation with TPU mounts. It's definitely "shaky" but doesn't have that typical rolling shutter effect. If you can get to at least that, you might be able to smooth things out with GyroFlow, but it's all a lot of effort
Here's my theory on that, I think GoPros have enough mass that they are their own dampener for jello. And the thumb is so lite that along with the mount it can start to resonate at certain RPMs of the motors. I think a super soft mount lowers the resonance frequency to keep jello under control and then wobbles added by a soft mount get filtered out by gyroflow with these hundreds of sync points. That's my theory.
Normally I would include these in the description, but I'm still using a design I horribly butchered to make the Pro fit. The base mount it this one www.thingiverse.com/thing:4518935 the design I modified for the Pro is based on this one www.thingiverse.com/thing:5423734 I don't want to upload the changes I did, because the fit it shoddy, but I did ask the creator of the original mount if he'd do a pro version and he said he does have one on the way, so hopefully they'll be an "official" mount from him coming.
@@CurryKitten good call. I printed a mount for the thumb pro but it's to flexible and doesn't hold the pro in the same spot so the angle shifts around noticably. If printed in 100% infill the part where it mounts on the base is still to flexible.
@@CurryKitten It's about estimating the motion between frames by tracking high contrast features - that's how stabilizing was done before we had gyro-data. I think Gyroflow only uses it for the sync points (the yellow lines in the preview) because it hits on the CPU/GPU a lot.
I had the same idea about 100% optical flow and I talked to the gyroflow devs about this in their Discord and 100% optical flow is not accurate enough to use raw, but its awesome for syncing up with our high resolution gyro data. I know it takes a few minutes but at least 500 points is automated.
Great video, thanks for sharing your findings. I think i have managed to perfect the mount and the stabilisation now but can I ask what export settings you use in gyroflow as my footage looks great in gyroflow but once exported I'm losing a lot of quality. Thanks again. 👍
That's weird, I haven't touched my settings - which usually means it's exporting the same as what's come in. So double check your output size is the same as what your footage is shot in - I've usung the H.264 codec. Usually the GyroFlow preview looks worse, it's only at 720p, with the slight issue that this can disguise some small shakes once you export to the full resolution
@@CurryKitten that's interesting. Perhaps I will reset everything back to default and put your stab settings in and try again. Thanks again and keep up the great vids. 👍.
@@MrRobertshaw100 Yeah and gyroflow added to option to reset all settings. I was so glad they added that because it saves your setting everytime and it made me crazy while I was experimenting. You can find this at the very bottom right, all the wat ay the bottom of Advanced section.
Can you tell from the gyro data what frequencies are giving you trouble? Is there a frequency or FFT readout? That could help us say what changes to the mount you should make.
Not as such no. I can only say there's a large difference in the sort of vibration frequency that you generate from 2.5" props - where things are pretty tidy, compared with 5" props - where's it's a mess. The Gyro data really just give the amplitude rather than any frequency
@@CurryKitten if you have a text file or anything with the time signal from the gyro, we can always take an FFT of it in something like Matlab or even a Python routine. But that's petty nerdy... Trial and error is also very reasonable!
I'm currently thinking that its when the motors RPM goes through a resonance frequency of the mount. So the quad is flying smooth, but the mount resonates and give these frames a bunch of motion blur but not really any jello. I haven't tested this idea.
@@cagmuer I created a sound file for blheli that ramps the motors up from low freq to high freq... I wonder if you could set the quad on something soft and just play this ramping start up music and see it in the gyro data?
The original runcam thumb? From what I have Heard image quality is way worse and it doesn't work with gyroflow as well. But look at a few videos, if you like the results go for it!
Agreed. It was very exciting to find a method that worked repeatedly. I know its not a "nice" camera but its cheap enough that I don't feel I have to baby it. I can very adventurous!
