But then you went on to say that an engine that turns more RPMs will wear out quicker than an engine that turns less RPMs. I think that would only be true if you were talking about two identical engines.. Some of those bigger engines have very thin cylinder walls for example, and are prone to failure due to that weakness. There are other examples of why the smaller engines can outlast the bigger ones, IMHO
@@bighammer587 fyi none of the examples I talked about in the bigger engine categories were thin walls cylinders. the only thin wall cylinders are 88 thins (never never never) 87 thins Never and 92 thins just say no. They make all of these in thick wall cylinders now. Kind of the point of the video. A bigger engine that does not have to rev up to Higher RPMs in the categories that I mentioned. Like aluminum case 78 to 82 with thick wall cyls. and 74 76 with thick wall cylinders can outlast a smaller engine....When your trying to get horsepower. A bigger engine that revs to 5500 to get the same power as a 1776 that revs to 6800 rpm to get power will outlast the smaller engine hands down. When you build the combinations I was talking about.
2180 thick wall I think is better the old 2110 is the old way now 2180 thick wall is the new way. Back in the 80s the 2110 was king because they did not have the thick wall cylinders. 2180 was the blow up engine. Now thick walls dissipate heat better than the 90.5
@@Omar-Type271 thick wall cylinders. go right in 90.5 and have 92 bore with 94 opening required on the head side. So the thick part is at the top where the fire happens. Best invention ever.
@@Omar-Type271 88 thick walls fit in 85.5 case and 90.5 heads. To put a 74 crank under them the piston skirts need to be trimmed 200 thousands (around there.) that is what I needed to do.
In South Africa aircooled motors are super expensive too do. Here engin conversions gets done its either golf mk 1 or 2 motors being used. If you spend more money you can do rotory or subaru. I run a 1400cc golf motor with mp9 module
A good set of points has a coating on points //never file off this coating ..old new stock //this coating keeps a long life on points //settings if its 17000, to 20,000 settings //run on means set points at 18,000 if need long run// when looking at new points when closed .look to see in the close -up even to each point on your set //make sure the points close even to each others if --off .bend arm on points to make inline to each other /and lube and go
Mike, I know you are the 5.325 rods with 74mm Crank King!. I have an early car, so I want the narrowest engine possible. Would using a 5.4 rod with a 90.5mm "B" piston achieve the same result?
Hey I’m 19 now but when I was 15 my mom bought me a 73 super beetle to get to and from school but I never really ended up driving it much because I was to scared of hurting it or breaking something. I was just curious about what steps you would take to making them decently bulletproof for daily driving.
all depends on budget. But go as big as you can afford.....Stay with thick wall cylinders Like 92 thick wall. Low budget 74 crank and 90.5 more money and easer to get power with 82 or 78 aluminum case and Big valve 60cc heads. Then to get to 140hp you will need dual carbs. you can sacrifice a bit of power going 2 barrel E gas is the most reliable 2 barrel setup but they dont come jetted properly so you will need to do that. Once its jetted there is almost no work to maintain it. you might only get to 125 with that carb. Dual carbs 140 is totally doable with 2180 (thick wall one) and it wont take a lot of RPM. to get there with a smaller engine it will need to rev pretty high. up to almost 7000rpm. If you go above 7000....$$$$$$$ on pistons H rods 3/8 bolt ones. and probably high end crankshaft. Im running about 110 hp with 2 barrel and it is really fun to drive. only a 1904.
What is the best option I could go without machining the engine case? I don't mine bigger heads. Currently upgraded to 1641cc DP from 1285cc DP with weber progressive carb. Prefer something that runs cooler on my super cabriolet! I read weber progressive is good till 2000cc with a balance of economy and a little spirited driving. Current setup allows me to cruise at 88kph at 2500rpm
Longer rods are what they use in F1 racing. FYI. over 2.0 rod ratio is F1 car. stock VW is 1.99. 78 with short rods are more like 1.75 ratio. which is doable for up to 10000rpm but if you have a 86 stroke the rod ratio is 1.5 with shorter rods.....Cannot bring RPM....look this stuff up.
Great points in the video. 🙂 Speed costs money, how fast you want to go = $$$$ The older I get, the less I require max power. Thank You for the video 👍
@@TheDasbull you can still make good power with not as much money just doing 74 stroke and 88. thick walls. Costs about 100 to 200 more than a 1600 to build. even with a stock carb will give you a LOT more power. Better reliability from counterweighted crank, and thick wall cylinders (they take some serious heat)
@@Mikefngarage Hi Mike, I have a 74mm crank, 88mm pistons, stock rods, 110 cam, heads etc. Only parts needed are case, ignition, and exhaust. I saw your single center mount Weber carb (I think on your bus) and it looks interesting 👍
