Your camera work and methodical testing is commendable. Thanks for creating such high quality and useful content. The tanks with AA were sharper to my eye than those without.
I would have liked to see a flat print of the tank. It looks like AA and IB make a big difference in any case. The angles didn't seem to make the difference between a good print and a bad print. With his first test model several angles had great results, and many of them better then arctan angle. This was eye opening. For people saying you risk losing detail, when it came to the tank model, I saw no loss in detail between the two at a glance. I think I am going to be giving this a go with my prints. Thank you.
Great video, thank you ! you can definitely lose some small details with antialias / image blur, but if you have the lienes on the model that you would be attemptint o sand down / clean, you will lose the detail as well , so it's really a tradeoff that everyone has to decide for themselves
I do 3d print almost 24/7 I make living from 3d print. All the experiment and tests actually was done several years ago when i was still learning. So i figure to recreate all the tests and share it.
@@dtj9923 ow rotate at x and y axis you mean. Pretty the same result for the final angle. Compound angle works best to reduce print sagging and pulling force.
This is a great idea for a video and I am glad you made it. It was very hard to see the surface of printed pieces because the camera is focused on your fingers.
another good video. thank you. i find the orientation/angles of the print (and decisions about which parts to print separated make such a big difference. ive barely tried the AA and Blur... (first time today). i guess its a matter of using those print layers specs to get the more dense number of layers orientated to suit. (or is it? now i think of it im not so sure the z height is better than the screen mask resolution) the obvious example being a lengthy cylinder such as the tank barrel. super fast print horizontally but far fewer layers...more support needed to keep those lines from sagging. vertical print... more layers, lots more time, plus the risk of waiting hours and hours only to end up with it glitching and getting those 'position slips' seen as horizontal artifacts. hope to see you working through support tactics and all the other little finessing that can be done... although admittedly.. after my first few hand supported prints... i try to minimise it all and save time with some software assistance... lots of factors to juggle
Excellent tests! Are you using Chitubox Pro and using different Antialiasing settings per model (on the same print) OR you are making a single print for every antialiasing setting? 🤔
Hi Dennys. Thank you for such a thorough analysis of AA! Great info here. Do you find when using these AA settings that it increases print time any if at all?
Another informative session. Will the test results change for different resins used?? Is it a smart practice to run through the tests you've provided over the weeks for every different resin used? Keep up the great work.
Just watched video and great info but was curious how well things work when printing at the calculated arctan angle? On my Noir it is something like 32.6°, I would be curious to see if the calculated arctan plus the other settings are better or worse. Thanks for vid great info!
@@wangdennys yeah was just wondering what the time difference was with you're prints. Both came out well for me I'd be happy with both prints but would probably go with the lower one for time saving.
Hello! Please help me... I know it is mentioned in passing on the video as to the values between angle test print, but at which angle does the test print start, what is the difference between angle test, and at what angle does it end? I do not hear well, so it was difficult for me to follow along with all of the video. Thanks in advance!
Since slicing is always done horizontally, I wonder if the antialiasing is only applied with per-layer information, meaning only X/Y gradients get smoothed. It would be interesting to compare antialiasing with angles on X/Y plane compared to what you show here, which is X/Z or Y/Z plane. Ideally the slicer would pick the optimal grayscale value based on the average of partial deriviatives along both X, Y, and Z directions, but maybe they are not that sophisticated.
Nevermind, I thought about it a bit more and realized you only need antialiasing in X/Y plane. Antialiasing doesn't do any magical smoothing of the part, it only allows the creation of sub-pixel accuracy voxels. That can increase the printer's effective X/Y resolution, making it appear more like a smooth surface, but under a microscope it still looks rasterized. The equivalent on the Z axis would simply be decreasing layer height.
@@NyrixCorp Under the microscope it can look smoother. If the edges were hard then we wouldn't see a reduction in layer lines so they are being softened. The thing is if you do the right exposure you can actually get a layer to form that is too thin to reach the fep, that's why these XY AA methods actually can blur away lines on the Z axis but crudely. For proper Z axis AA you need to compare at least two layers so that you can have a bigger blur on lower angles, I've done this, it works. But for really good Z AA that can actually add detail not remove it you need to do it during slicing by rendering height/depth information with each layer and using that to make a gradient, I'm working on this, haven't tested it yet but I know it will be great.
can i keep the settings enabled always? or do I need to turn it off when printing less flat parts. why I think of printing all parts together, whether they are flat or not
People always say to shake your resin before using, but when I shake it it creates bubbles and then I get holys in my print which are probably those bubbles, what do you think about shaking resin before printing?
I have started seeing people getting poor results when they start using cure times that are shorter than needed. Everyone wants to speed up their printers but it seems to be at the expense of smooth surfaces. Did you find anything like this?
Amazing video, was the only one test i've done that really works, but now i change my printer to an elegoo saturn 3 ultra, and the test is done ok in different exposures, between 0,5 of diffenrence and i get some lines printeds. Any idea for solve the problem? Thank you so much for the videos!
For the angle, yes! It is to help you judge on the situation. Usually i judge the situation from the widest or biggest flat surface of an object, and use this method as starting point for the trial and error Rather than go blindly and test every 1⁰ increments. But usually on printer with working AA, it helps alot, even with very complex model. You can check all my test print on video for printer review.
Hello! I have a Mighty 8k and have been curious about these settings. In Chitubox, I can't set my anti-aliasing level to 0 if I want to do Pixel Blurring. I can set my pixel blurring to 2 as you suggest, but then my anti aliasing must be set to either 2, 4 or 8. I also have a drop down for Grey Level, which can go from 0-8. I'm using the free version. Any ideas/suggestions?
Nice to meet you Dennys, i've chitubox pro and elegoo mars 3, but in my settings idk how to do it 0 antialising, once i click on antialising they show me "image gray" and "gray range". 0-0 maybe it's zero antialising? At least i can type image blur 2
Tried yesterday on Jan 11th in Lychee 3.6 and Saturn. I see no difference between AA 2, 4 and 8, and only a very slight difference with blur 2. I assume that means, AA in Lychee doesn't work.
LOL I never said in the video those artifact lines cause by AA So I dont know what you are talking about. And i dont print using mono x. I print them on phrozen printer. And i already explain everything in the video. It's called artifact lines. No amount of cleaning rail and leadscrew can get rid of artifact lines. Google "3d printer artifact lines" or "3d print arctan angle" Or maybe print the model i provide and see for yourself the artifact lines when AA off, compare to AA on if you are using printer other than anycubic printer and your printer AA fully works, so you can see the difference.
